Bill C

I'm stumped and could use some expert suggestions/help. My coach is a 2001 Dynasty Queen 40. My Living Room Slide came in part way and stopped (luckily I am home). I can't get it to come in or out. It is dead, and moving the switch makes no noise or any sign of activating the slide. I know that the ignition switch being on can lock out the slide from moving. I also know that having one of the outside compartment doors open can lock out the slide. So far I have checked every fuse in the front and rear fuse locations and the slide solenoids (including the slide disabled solenoid) and nothing seems to be wrong. In fact, the bedroom slide still works. I have tried moving the fairly new (4 months old) ignition switch on and off several times my no luck. I have also traced the Green (12v) wire from the slide relay in the rear compartment, through both lock out switches on the side compartment doors, all the way to the slide switch, and I have 12v at the slide switch. I have checked the switch condition and confirmed that it seems to be a DPDT switch, and both middle connector "connect" to the outer connectors when pressed, as they should. The only thing I can think of to do is to check the power and connections at the hydraulic pump solenoids and servos, but I have no idea where they are located. I did find a slide actuator in the passenger side of the fuel tank, and looked in the main storage compartment (where the HWH controller and Inverter are located) but did not see it (upon casual inspection). I figured the rear actuator and pump would be located near one of the main slide extension (square) tubes, and did find the front actuator, but not the rear actuator and pump. Before I go any farther I thought I would reach out to the people on this forum in case I was missing the obvious. Attached is the wiring for the main slide switch/

Interesting, I just tried to download the file and McAfee popped up and said this (see attached pic): Anyone else get this? I downloaded it again, accepted the risk, scanned it off line with McAfee, and got this (pic), so all is good.

I’m not asking because I don’t believe you I’m just wondering if anybody ever did that. I have blocks from mine and I agree with the idea

Have you actually read about someone dying this way?

Thanks for the link Richard Smith

Anyone know of a place that I can purchase a replacement illuminated water pump switch like the green one in the attached pic? It is located above the passenger seat (in my 2021 Dynasty), is a 2 way toggle switch, and is illuminated when the water pump is on. Thanks, Bill

Where was this located?

I'm glad to have read your (Steve P) post about the "missing" bushing. I too do not have a bushing on mine, I was wondering if I ever had one. Steve P - did you make a final determination that you, in fact, were missing the bushing? Did you find one, or make one, that worked, installed it, and it solved the problem? Before I go down that rabbit hole I wanted to see what you have learned?

I wouldn’t rule it out too quickly. Those buttons by the side compartments doors can get stuck sometimes and if they’re stuck in or something is wrong with them it will give you this kind of a problem I would check all those buttons

There’s a lock out if the engine is running or key is turned on. I think there may also be a lock out if one of the lower compartment doors is open that could hit the slide

We have had problems over the years similar to yours, where we had to push in the door "in", while pulling on the handle to open the entry door. I feel like sometimes the RV was not level and this is causing this issue. Other times I have lubricated the two mechanisms on the door that latch to the striker bolts. I eventually loosened the striker bolts, closed and opened the door, so that the striker bolts could adjust themselves, and tightened the striker bolts again, trying not to let them move as I tightened the nut on the end of the bolt. I found, at least for me, that I can not rally tighten the nut too much, or the striker bolt would move too much and the door was once again hard to open. Hope this helps, it's a lot easier than opening up the guts of the locking mechanism.

I’ve asked this question before but never heard back and answer. Could somebody please tell me what the Amish solution is?

Ok thanks

What kind of kilowatt meter did you get and where did you get it?

Thank you for the information. What is the Amish solution? I’m not familiar with that.

I would be interested in the seals on the doors what is their condition?

Thanks

Bob Mercier, what are those three LED looking things in the back of the refrigerator compartment at the bottom? I’m referring to the ones that look like three LED lights at the bottom of your old refrigerator compartment. It’s probably obvious to everybody else but I really don’t know what the heck they might be?

I thought it sounded like a high temp alarm

My issue was the fuel accumulator (sorry about that, I got the term mixed up). When they disconnected the fuel lines to it they loosened the one below it when they tighten the one above it. So they tell me we didn’t do anything to that fuel line we only touched the one above it. That’s why they said it wasn’t their fault. In reality what happened was as the tech turned the open ended wrench on the fuel line going in to the actuator the wrench contacted the nut on the line below it. As he rotated the nut to tighten the top fuel line the wrench contacted the bottom nut and rotated it in the opposite direction, which loosened it. The tech did not notice this and that’s what resulted in the fuel leak problem

I had one diagnosed to be bad, and replaced in Salt Lake City by Cummins. They didn't connect the fuel lines properly and it slowly came undone over the next week and I had fuel spray all over the place, on the engine, on the tow, a little in the inside rear of RV, etc. Cummins said it was not their fault and refused to cover the damage, repair, and tow. Bad Cummins

Yep that’s about it took pictures and as I recall the plugs were pretty straightforward you couldn’t put the wrong one in the wrong hole very easily.

I have an 01 Dynasty and took it to the cummings/truck repair shop. After charging me $1000 for diagnostics, and still not fixing the problem, I took it home, followed the HWH troubleshooting guide, and determined it was the control box. I sent the box to HWH and for $113 they repaired it and problem solved. What's worse it I took it in for the rear traveling leveling system not working and they told me the front right exhaust valve was wrong. What are they doing in the front when the issue was in the back. So, just by chance the front right exhaust valve was also bad, but the replaced the front "left" exhaust valve. I later replaced the front right exhaust valve myself. Easy Peasy. Many places think they know what they are doing, but in fact we end up paying them $180 to "learn" how to work on them. When I raised my concern they told me: " Our guys is so good that HWH calls him when they can't figure something out". BS

I just wanted to share my experience. I went through the great "600 air level svc manual ml19048" (this is for my system, it will vary for other models I suspect) troubleshooting the issue. Once it was determined that it was the control box I called HWH, received a repair order number, sent the box to them, and in about 2 weeks the control box was sent back all fixed, and it only cost me $113. This included the 4 little electrical parts that they replaced. This was certainly a lot cheaper than buying a whole new system, and my system was too old to find a replacement control box. I was always wondering about how I would be able to fix such an old system, but thankfully HWH is still supporting systems like my 2000-2001 10 air bag air ride and air leveling system. Hope this info is useful for others.

Anyone happen to have the link to that discussion on short cycling? I hit to thinking that mine does that a lot