BradHend

Agreed, very well said 👏. I wish a very Merry Christmas and happy holidays to everyone as well. Very proud to be a member of this forum.

Couldn’t agree more. Especially when you’re watching it like a hawk due to engine overheat issues and she cuts out on ya. Lol. 🤬

I have same issue with android or iPad. Sometimes getting it connected at the start of a trip it needed to be disconnected and plugged back in to get it to initially connect. The dash setup I also found took way too much time so I opted for a generic template from the user repository and tweaked one to suit my needs. I’m sure if I spent more time learning it I could make a pretty sweet dash layout, but when I tried the whole thing was so laggy and time consuming between the vast amount of options. Not trying to knock it, I really do enjoy it when it works, invaluable asset in my opinion on an older motorhome. Came in quite handy not only to monitor what isn’t available on the physical gauges, but also a sense of security to be able to validate the readings between the physical gauges and the digital dash gauges.

Not sure on HR, my ‘05 cayman has the 6 pin up front, 9 pin in the rear engine bay. Much more data available when connected to the rear 9 pin, however the Bluetooth signal isn’t strong enough to reliably work in drivers seat. I managed to find a business that will make a custom length extension with the Deutz connectors, which I plan to do so that I have the 9 pin connection up front.

@dl_racing427 I’m all for ditching the EGR and using a standard manifold, my issue seems to be that no diesel tuning shops can delete it on a 2005 engine. Only seems to be on the ‘07s and up from what I can see. Not as simple as ditching it and installing covers on the 2 ports from the research I’ve done either. That also raises the issue that if I modify the ECM and engine components, from what I hear, Cummins won’t touch it. If you know how to delete properly, I’m all ears, otherwise I intend to keep it how it came.

Nope. Literally noone would touch it cause they couldn’t guarantee anything or couldn’t fit me in. It’s actually a combination of copper high heat RTV, some extreme temp JB putty, high heat fibreglass wrap and stainless zip ties. I unfortunately had to wrap the fibreglass and zip ties as the compound would just fall out after an hour or so of driving. The wrap and zip ties are basically just there to prevent it from falling out, which actually seems to be working. I had ZERO boost when things got bad at the start of the trip in the hillsides of New Brunswick/Quebec. Engine de-rated itself. Gutless and black smoke. Quite a trip. Lots of stress. I did make the best of it. We will be going back for a victory tour. 😉. It’s a crude attempt, but it works. Just wish I could get the darn part.

A retired family member of mine who was a well known tool & die maker in the Toronto area and is still consulting at the age of 76 has told me one possible option is to have the cast manifold spray welded and then planed back true with the other ports. This of course is assuming the warped manifold can be removed in one piece and not damaged further in the process. As much as I’d like to go ahead with that route, the risk of damage is high in my opinion and if I proceed and damage it then I’m really in some trouble. I have it temporarily patched up right now so I can drive it but absolutely no guarantees as to how long it will hold up. It’s not pretty at all, but it works and it got me home from our east coast Canada adventure. I just know it won’t last. Too much expansion and contraction there to be considered a reliable temporary fix. I truly appreciate everyone’s input btw.

@hitechpete that isn’t my manifold. See the pic I posted near the top. Appreciate you looking though.

@hitechpete any chance your buddy still has the information for the manufacturer? Many thanks.

It doesn’t have the large EGR outlet on it. All the diesel shops I’ve talked to about deleting it all together and getting a standard manifold like what you have posted claim an EGR delete mod can’t be done on my specific year/model engine. Very frustrating.

@BRBowers I for sure have checked with Cummins. They also claim my specific manifold (part# 3955199) is still under copyright protection which is why there is no aftermarket option for it. They hope to see one next year “sometime”. But to answer your question, it’s a 2005 Cayman. Might add that it’s a 2-piece manifold. The smaller piece I can get no problem, it’s the larger piece that has the turbo flange and the EGR port is the problem. I have been tempted to try a 2007 F-750 super duty manifold, as it is for a 5.9 cummins and has the same EGR port, but it is a 1-piece and I’m hesitant to even attempt in case it cracks or something. I would assume mine is a 2-piece for a reason.

Really wish I could attend this year. Unfortunately I am STILL waiting/looking for an exhaust manifold for my 5.9 ISB. Nobody has one, not even in the used or salvage sectors that I’ve tried.

I originally thought my wet bay heater never worked when I first bought my coach. It wasn’t until one frigid night (about 3 degrees Celsius) I noticed that the light came on and upon checking, the heater was indeed working. just saying, are you sure it doesn’t work or is it just not cold enough?

Always in the back my mind. Rest In Peace.

Low battery is indicated at the fridge or at the system display? Do you have a modified sine wave inverter? Reason I ask is it may not be your batteries, but rather your fridge controller doesn’t like the modified sine wave inverter.

If I could afford it I’d buy it, believe me.

Get it looked at, or hook up a scanner yourself if nothing obvious. Better safe than sorry. I believe it’s usually related to engine temperature. That was the case for me. I sure wish that light was hooked up to a buzzer. I caused some significant damage and quite a headache due to not noticing it on the highway. Worse yet, I can’t even get the part from Cummins to fix it. No aftermarket available either. The MoHo doesn’t go far as of late due to this and Cummins thinks maybe next year sometime they will have parts in stock.

Same issue when I replaced to LED. I just removed it all the best I could and reapplied with new clear. Lights are all still working with no leaks that I can tell. Also added a tiny bit of dielectric grease to the connections while I was at it. I thought this was something the PO had done but it must have been the factories doing if others are chiming in with the same situation. I am also in the process of sourcing out complete replacements as I did find a couple of the lenses had small cracks. I applied a small amount of silicone to the inside lens of those as well and smeared it flat the best I could.

Beauty coach you have there Malcolm and Barbara. Perhaps one day I’ll step up to one that size. Best of luck on the sale!

Any more info available? Thanks.

@Gwarsh, sorry for the late reply. All of the bulbs were sourced from Amazon. So far all of them are still working, so if I have to purchase again, I will. They are much more brighter and crisper in the evening/night hours, which I really like. I just took the existing bulb out of each light and typed it into the Amazon search bar with “LED” at the end and basically got the one with the higher reviews. Hope that helps.

I also notice your slide topper is taught on the front and quite slack on the rear. I don’t have hydraulic slides, but I would assume they would extend to the extent of hitting the stop ring on the cylinder. Is something getting wedged perhaps? If it’s rack and pinion, my bedroom slide has skipped a gear on the rack and pinion drive once. It happened after my DW was extending it and a pillow got wedged. The button was held until she assumed it was fully extended. 🙄

I only have an air emergency/park brake on my coach with the 4 air bag suspension system (R4R) and I’m not sure exactly where your pressure is going while climbing a hill. I do know however, that your red needle is your primary air tank, which serves your main rear brakes (up to 80% of your braking power), and the white needle is your secondary tank which serves your front steer axle brakes. Your secondary tank is usually also for accessories such as the seat, air horn etc. Might be time to get the spray bottle with soapy water and start checking over your system as the leak could be anywhere. Be careful, if you get under usually 50PSI in either of your tanks, your emergency brake will set.

This 1” of play you’re describing is with the engine running or not running?

Belt tensioner and/or belt slippage perhaps?