Rocketman3

There is an easier solution for the dog taking off the park brake… Just have enough air leaks that the air pressure drops to where the brake automatically engages (so it can’t dis-engage).😆

I have purchased from the company listed above. 2000 Dynasty. Got and installed the radio panel - a couple of the screw holes were slightly off - like 1/8” or so- but it works just fine. I also ordered the side panel you were asking about - it arrived and looks good - but that in on a future project to install. They want a photo of your current panel - so it matches. The color was very close - slightly darker (but that could be 23 years of fade). Good Luck!

A couple of other questions: how cold are the batteries? what kind of batteries? Agm, wet- lead acid, gell, lithium? There is a temperature sensor that should be attached to the charger that registers the temperature of the batteries. When it’s cold lead batteries need higher voltages, when it’s hot - they need lower voltages. If the temperature sensor has become disabled (corroded wire leading to an open circuit), it can cause the charger to think it’s like -40 below - and overcharge the batteries. Check the batteries specs and the Charger manual to find out if your temperature boost is normal for the current battery temperature. 15.3v could be high enough to boil off the acid and cause damage or it could be just fine. When it’s at 13.5v it is in float. That is fine and not a problem- (where it should be at after being plugged in for a while). The question is what is the charging cycle looking like???

I removed my salesman switches (I have a 2000), so they were always on. I replaced them with a Victron Smart Battery Protect BP-65. The reason for replacing them is I can set a voltage that they cut-off. So if something gets left on and the battery gets low - they automatically shut off. Also almost no power used. Good Luck with whichever way you choose to solve your problem.

Open the back and find the 12v+ and 12v- and verify you have power to the fridge. Hopefully just a fuse… or wire… Maybe this is your rig’s way of saying it wants a new residential fridge. 😎

I full- time in my 2000 Dynasty. I added 800w of solar with a Victron mppt 100/50. Ran all new wires. Later I needed more solar, so I removed the OEM stuff and added 400w with a Victron 100/30 on the oem original wires. I do not charge the engine battery with the solar. Lately, I have been contemplating adding a 100w panel a small Victron 75/15 and running wires down the back (where the air from the roof feeds the air filter). That seems easier and cheaper than adding a dc-dc charger to charge the engine battery. I don’t know of any current product that will split the solar into two different banks (and two different chemistries). Good Luck with your project!

On my 2000 Dynasty- I have oil bearings. My understanding was it was an ordered option. From what I know about the two prior owners of my rig - I would highly doubt they paid to install them aftermarket- but it would not surprise me if it came that way from the factory.

I have a 2000 dynasty. My issue was the clockspring got dirty- it just needed a couple of really good cleanings. Are your cruise and wipers buttons lighted? Mine are not. If they are lighted you have a four wire clockspring - it is a little cable. (and this would not be your solution). Mine is a 2-wire - it has contacts riding on a brass(?) ring. The ring got dirty over time. what I did to clean it- steering wheel all the way up and flat, took off the plastic shroud. Got some Q-tips and dipped them in denatured alcohol and cleaned the ring. Turned the steering wheel occasionally. First time I did it - it lasted 6 months. Then cleaned it again - even better and it has been a year now. Good Luck!

What a great excuse to get that slightly bigger or smaller or newer rig… 😊 Maybe add a garden hose of water stream into the heater and it will move it to an area you can see. - with my luck it would make it harder to get to… but your luck might be different. Or plug the heater back up and fill then drain it. Good Luck!

Just to give a follow-up… I got it fixed! it was a National Hardware item: N190-044 (nickle) N100-047 (gold) A Do it Best store ordered it for me, the only issue is the new one was about 1mm bigger, so I had to buy a 5/8” drill bit. Thanks for everyone’s help!

I am assuming your four 6v batteries are lead-acid… (not agm or lithium) The charger was maintaining the float charge of 13.5. (The solar will try to keep it these too). The batteries will slowly drop until they get to about 12.6. https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/battery/bat_volts.php has a nice chart. You are still 100% full at 12.6. it should take a long time to get to the lower voltages. I can’t help you with the auto start stuff. I replaced my Trace with a Victron just after I bought my rig- it was having issues. Good Luck

Hello everyone, The bathroom doorknob on our 2000 Dynasty is about wore out. It is difficult to turn and only opens in one direction. Does anyone know where to get a replacement? Thanks

Good Luck with the project! My first try on sealing the outside door failed. The second try seems to be much more successful! I got some Leak Stop 4” tape at Lowes and sealed the inside of the door. That sealed the air out. Then I got some Big Stretch caulking and filled in all the little squares. This covered the sticky tape and added a slight bit of insulation. Enjoy your new fridge

Since we are moving today, I figured I would post my easy solution to the doors opening on my residential. There are lots of ways to do this. My fridge in storage mode… The straps just easily slip on and off Got them from Amazon- Bimini top strap holders. I got the “ manual” ice maker… it dumps ice whenever I crack the tray and turn it upside down. I didn’t want an auto one cause they take up too much room in the fridge. Good Luck

Are you thinking of going residential? or staying with the same fridge? With residential the sizes don’t match. I went with Fisher & Paykel. It’s height was just a little taller, slightly narrower, slightly deeper. And LOTS more interior space. Samsung also seems to be a popular model. you could just replace it with another Norcold. Easy to fit, but I think the quality has gone down over the years. My rig’s 1200 lasted over 20 years, took it out because we went full- time and wanted the better fridge. My Dad’s four year old 1210 (same size), died at four years coming back from Alaska - the coolant tube corroded through. a third option is replacing the cooling unit with an Amish unit. That’s what we did on my Dad’s fridge. Was not hard - 2 person job. He stayed the same propane + electric. They also have 12v compressor style too. Good Luck

Bad starter? Hope not…

I had that happen a couple of times. in my case, I had installed an 800w solar array, I had been driving for a while - so all batteries were full. And I figure the battery maintainer gave enough power to run the engine - so the alternator decided it was no longer needed. The alternator turned off and the light went on. In my rig the RPM is tied to the alternator- so my RPM’s went to zero - while the engine was running nicely. After researching it- I just turn on my headlights, so my alternator feels needed and the alt fail light goes off - my RPM needle returns. No issues. Not saying that’s your issue…

Can’t see the photo’s - what file is that?

If your shunt comes off the battery negative and nothing else is on the negative wire then a non-isolated Dc-Dc charger will work just fine - the frame ground is on the load side of the shunt and it’s cheaper. you can have more than one shunt on the negative line. However, every shunt add resistance and voltage drop to the system (that’s how they work). I have two shunts - a Batrium for the BMS and a Victron. It’s not ideal but…

I installed a Victron Dc-Dc charger 30a non-isolated in my rig. I have an ignition fuse block I created (powered when the ignition is on) for a FASS pump, I also use that to drive a relay for the charge signal for the Dc-Dc charger. (I wanted to make sure I didn’t have a circular charging going on between the two banks). The one downside is whenever I shut the rig off - like for fuel, the Dc-Dc goes back into absorbing mode. Also, with only 30a going into a 540ah of batteries- it it only another trickle of power. Good Luck!

Yes a Victron Dc-dc charger would work - (there are others). Another way would be a small solar panel on the top of the generator (with a small solar charge controller.

Electrical your 4/0 load is divided into four 12v batteries- so a smaller cable would work. (Which is why Monaco probably did that). on my rig with four 6v I had 2/0 for the interconnection. I would go with the largest wire you can easily work with - 2/0 or 1/0…. If you could do it with 4/0 - I would use that. All the interconnections need to be the same length and size.

I have a 2000 Dynasty (with furnace under and low ceilings). Here is what I did… Fisher and Paykel Fridge - (got it through Best Buy) i needed to lower the base a few inches. My furnace was sitting on a 2x4 - so 3-1/2” off the floor. In reading the furnace specs it needed some height above (I have forgotten the exact specs), but it was fine to be right on the floor. So I pulled out the old fridge - took out the old fridge floor, dropped the furnace down to the floor. The exhaust and intake holes I needed to adjust. I just moved the exhaust into the intake hole, and drilled a new intake hole with a hole saw. Used the plugs, and plugged and siliconed the upper hole closed. I made an aluminum exterior plate to cover the old holes and new holes. Reinstalled the same 3/4 plywood base and I had the room needed for the height. After getting done, if I used metal for the fridge to sit on I could have gotten another inch. (But I didn’t need it). It can be done! And you will LOVE it when it’s done.

On page 5 is my writeup on August 1st I found an ignition source in my rear run bay. One of the terminal blocks says “ignition”. I ran that to a relay and used the relay to drive a 6fuse block. I used AN10 coupling and 2 AN10 caps to couple the fuel hoses and cap the OEM lift pump. (I got them from Amazon - Evil Energy brand). On my install I put the FASS where the first fuel pump was - I believe FASS pump sizes were the same as the old fuel filter housing. So I didn’t need any other fittings there. I didn’t put a ball valve on the inlet of the FASS pump for changing filters. I just figure I will redo the initial start procedure- but it is a good idea.

We got our Fisher & Paykel in through the front door. Removed drivers and passenger seats, took off door closer. Removed the doors on the fridge. Barely fit. we got the old NeverCold 1200 out with the help of a sawzall. Once it was in 2 pieces it went out real easy!