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HWH Air Level


miacasa_2000

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My air level works as it should I believe. I'm a 2nd owner and only know what I know from the manuals. Hit the air button once and I can manual level. hit it twice and it does it automatically. That being said after a few weeks it has sagged and works its way out of level whether its left on manual or auto. From what I read I believe it wakes up to check level every  30 min.  but only if left on auto when you  key off,  on manual it never wakes up. So to relevel I must start the coach up to air up and start all over again. I always thought I had a bad air compressor. Upon investigation I've found the compressor works fine and will air both my tanks up fine. My issue is the 12v wire from the HWH control box seams to never energize. I have unplugged it there and supplied 12v and the compressor works. I have checked all the fuses in the control box and also in the front command center. So here goes:

Is this supposed to be energized the whole time the air level is on so the tanks never get to low so when it wakes up it can adjust if needed? That's how I think it should work. Does anyone know how to troubleshoot this ?   Or has fixed this problem before.

Also I don't know if mine ever wakes up How can you tell and or troubleshoot that ?

Roy  03 Dynasty

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Sorry Chuck I thought it would be clear since I was asking about the 12v wire from the HWH that I was talking about the small HWH compressor I apologize.

And yes I have chased most of my leaks down most were from the ppv's now I still have a small one or two somewhere I can get 3 to 4 weeks dropping slowly and staying almost level. But that is not my issue I'm concerned with at this step it's the HWH compressor. 

Roy  

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Which air compressor are you posting about?  The air compressor on the engine, or the small HWH compressor located above the front axle?

First you need to get rid of all the air leaks on the coach.  Then you can manually level the coach.  It should hold level for over 30 days.  At least it did on my 2004 Windsor.  The hardest leak to find was the air coupling under the emergency brake plunger.  Chuck B

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Okay that explains why when parked on level lots for extended stays 2 months or more it just settles down till it bottoms out and the tanks empty out and since I don't go under without being supported on my level pad a home it wouldn't call for use when I had it on and let the air out of the tanks. I have a unlevel area I can park it on to check if the compressor will the come on after it settles down to the point it must raise to level. Meanwhile though I took the compressor out to clean and check everything and found my pressure switch was stuck closed it let continuity pass thru all the way up to 175 psi (max on my garage compressor ) so I ordered a new one and got to wondering if at one point in time with the compressor always running if that could have caused a issue with the controller. The blow off valve trips open at 162 psi so I feel that's Ok couldn't find a spec on that.    

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7 posts and no one has made the attempt to help the OP 😳. First of all being able to go a few weeks without significant sag is pretty darn good as it relates to leaks. On my Coach the system will let air out of the side that is higher when it starts to get out of level. I know my compressor works also but I also have not had it kick on when sitting, although I don’t stay in one location for a long time. Sorry that I don’t know the answer to your question but there is a great HWH Tech That is on IRV2 regularly. He goes by AZPETE.  I would suggest contacting him there. He will help you out

Good luck!

 

 

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20 hours ago, miacasa_2000 said:

My air level works as it should I believe. I'm a 2nd owner and only know what I know from the manuals. Hit the air button once and I can manual level. hit it twice and it does it automatically. That being said after a few weeks it has sagged and works its way out of level whether its left on manual or auto. From what I read I believe it wakes up to check level every  30 min.  but only if left on auto when you  key off,  on manual it never wakes up. So to relevel I must start the coach up to air up and start all over again. I always thought I had a bad air compressor. Upon investigation I've found the compressor works fine and will air both my tanks up fine. My issue is the 12v wire from the HWH control box seams to never energize. I have unplugged it there and supplied 12v and the compressor works. I have checked all the fuses in the control box and also in the front command center. So here goes:

Is this supposed to be energized the whole time the air level is on so the tanks never get to low so when it wakes up it can adjust if needed? That's how I think it should work. Does anyone know how to troubleshoot this ?   Or has fixed this problem before.

Also I don't know if mine ever wakes up How can you tell and or troubleshoot that ?

Roy  03 Dynasty

Roy,

You haven't verified if your HWH air compressor is working based on your post. Starting the coach engine to re-level is NOT using the HWH air compressor. The only way to verify whether the HWH air compressor works is to push the DUMP air button on your HWH panel to dump all air from your air bags. That's the button with the four DOWN arrows. Once all air has been released, then push the RAISE button on your HWH panel. That's the button with the four UP arrows. You should hear your HWH air compressor start up and the coach should start to rise. If you don't hear anything and the coach does not move up then your HWH air compressor is not working. If so there can be a few reasons for that to happen. There are troubleshooting steps in the HWH Air Leveling Manual to follow to determine why the air compressor is not working. I have attached my HWH Manual for your reference in case you do not have one.

My HWH air compressor died many years ago because of its location. Last summer of 2019 I finally took on the project to replace it. I have posted here about my project previously which includes photos. You can search for it using the search feature and read all about it.

 

HWH 500 Model.pdf

Edited by Dr4Film
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Richard  Thank you for the repair manual mine is the 600 series but close enough. It has answered some questions and gave me a few more things to check. Yes my compressor works as I stated when I supplied 12v to the wire all the way back at the control box. My box is in the ceiling of the large cargo bay next to the level sensor. I couldn't figure why I couldn't find a fuse to this now I know there isn't one. It was your article on how you replaced yours that got me thinking about this in the fist place I thought I was going to find a bad compressor but that is not the case.  

Rich another thank you you made me think about the download part of this forum and there it was the 600 series repair manual. I feel so dumb I will look thru there  first from now on.  If I remember

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10 hours ago, Chuck B said:

At least I do not use the site to promote my business,taking advantage of the members, and padding my wallet like you do.  Chuck B

Chuck, it is not surprising that you may be the only member on this forum that does NOT know that even though I developed the one and only true "Silver Bullet" for the Monaco Roadmaster chassis' legendary wandering problem, that I never even made back what I had invested in just the materials to develop it.  Yes, read that AGAIN, Chuckie, I never even made back the cost of the MATERIALS developing it.  More importantly, I have not sold a set in YEARS.  You don't appear to be very well read, or you would know that from several other forums.

I stated from the very beginning of my engineering exercise to solve the Roadmaster wandering issue that it was just that--something I did only because of my own engineering curiosity.  (This was the longest running thread on the Monaco section of iRV2, which of course you were never aware of).  I was excited to find the solution to a problem that got the lamest responses for YEARS from average forum members--shocks, tires, tire pressure, alignment, ride height...ad nauseum.  I sold about (30) sets of Cross-Braces and Watts Links for approximately the cost of the materials.  With a 100% success rate on those installations, I knew I had found the REAL reason for the Monaco wandering problem.  I had always known that the Howard, the Blue Ox, and countless other schemes attempted to "cure" a SUSPENSION problem with a "snake oil" "steering stabilizer" that did nothing but try to compensate for the real problem.  The REAL problem was that the chassis' wobbling H-frames were steering the vehicle and no device that attempted to hide the "symptoms" and not cure the "problem" would fix that.

But YOU would say, "Van, you've used the forum to make vast sums of money for your product."  Actually, even though the Cross-Braces and Watts Links have been sold in the HUNDREDS (because they are the ONLY thing that cures the PROBLEM, rather than alleviates the SYMPTOM) they were not sold by me, nor have I profited one dime from those sales.  I have not sold one in YEARS.  They are now sold for a fair price that is much more than I charged for my "engineering prototypes".  But then you might not know that, since you eschew sites that "operate for a profit" and are likely not well read on the subject.  BTW, do you buy groceries, gasoline, electric power and automobiles from non-profit agencies?

Once the concept was proven, I had no interest in making the products, even though I own a CNC machine shop and could easily do so.  One of my early "customers" was forum member Mike Hughes, whom I met at Quartzite years ago.  He was looking for a "cottage industry" to work on in his spare time.  Mike is an uncommonly likeable fellow who enjoyed working with folks to solve their problems.  And, unlike you, no one ever accused him of being condescending or patriarchal.  Everyone who buys a Watts Link or Cross-Bars from him always speaks highly of him.  Mike offers an unconditional "money back" guarantee for his Watts Links and Cross-Braces (just as I did when trying to get folks to try out the principle).  To my knowledge, Mike has never had to refund a dime...nor did I.

But I think this is more a problem between your style of interaction and mine with other forum members.  On all forums I participate in, I call out folks who are unpleasant, condescending, sarcastic, argumentative, and (frequently) misinformed.  Unfortunately, on rare occasions, those folks might have an incredible WEALTH of knowledge but have the social skills of an earthworm.  I find that although you are not alone, you frequently post with the underlying "tone" that, "If you do EVERYTHING just like I do (or did when I owned a coach years ago), your life will be wonderful.  If you do NOT do just as I do, you are an idiot and will suffer the consequences of ignoring my invaluable advice."---

If you don't drive 58-62 MPH as I did...you are a fool

If you don't do maintenance procedures just like I tell you...you are a fool.

If you don't use the same kind of tires as I do...you are a fool.

If you don't run the same tire pressures as I do...you are a fool.

If you don't service your engine on the same schedule as I do...you are a fool.

If you drive more miles per day than I did...you are a fool.

If you do not change your fuel filters on the same schedule as I did...you are a fool.

If you drive after dark...you are a fool.

If you do not use the same engine oil I did...you are a fool.

If you do not operate your air conditioners as I've told you to do...you are a fool.

If you do not extend your slides using the same procedure as I did...you are a fool.

This list could go on and on.  But Chuckie, how would you like to be REVERED?  How would you like to be like Dave Pratt, Ivan, Bob Nodine, Craig French, Frank McElroy, Chris Throgmartin, Tom Cherry, Paul Whittle, Scottie Hutto, Myron Truex...and countless others?  How would you like to be someone that when you post, EVERYBODY reads what you wrote, even if your post does not apply to them?  You, Chuck, have an immense knowledge base of information about Monaco coaches.  I would say that you are right up there with all these folks I've mentioned...maybe even in the same league as Bill D.  Your breadth of knowledge of Monaco coaches exceeds my own by a considerable margin.  If you could only acquire some social skills, you could be an invaluable resource to the group.

I belong because 90% of the time, someone can cordially help me and answer my question, and once in a while I can contribute something that might help someone.  Isn't that why you belong?

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On 8/29/2020 at 8:59 AM, Chuck B said:

At least I do not use the site to promote my business,taking advantage of the members, and padding my wallet like you do.  Chuck B

Chuck you are so wrong with that statement and i think you know you are.

Walt

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On 8/28/2020 at 2:17 PM, miacasa_2000 said:

Sorry Chuck I thought it would be clear since I was asking about the 12v wire from the HWH that I was talking about the small HWH compressor I apologize.

And yes I have chased most of my leaks down most were from the ppv's now I still have a small one or two somewhere I can get 3 to 4 weeks dropping slowly and staying almost level. But that is not my issue I'm concerned with at this step it's the HWH compressor. 

Roy  

What are the ppv’s, thanks

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In my coach the 12V compressor runs anytime you push a raise button with the engine off.    My 12V compressor is located just left and fwd of the passenger drive wheels under the coach.  
 

 About once every two years I have to pull it out, take the rear end off the motor and clean the brush trays so the brushes can move properly.

 

I’ve put a shield under there around the motor, and that cut it down to two years from more often.  
 

You need two 9/16” wrenches to remove the 4 bolts holding the whole assembly, unplug the power wire and remove the air line using the quick release.

 

I test it with a 12v power source after fixing the brushes, before putting it back under the coach.

 

An Allen wrench and torx wrench will be needed to get the brush end off the motor.   
 

Take pictures and make sure you get it back  together right or it might run backwards.

 

Granville Barker

05 Dynasty

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