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Faulty Electrical transfer switch.


Bo and Kathy Lee

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The TS-30 Transfer Switch is part of our travel trailer project, which also involved the installation of a 3,000-watt inverter. With this switch, there is no momentary power loss when switching between primary and secondary or return power sources. It's pre-wired so all I had to do was plug everything in. The purpose of the ATS is to cut back to the "Grid" power in the event the inverter drains battery power and/or if the solar array creates an overvoltage condition that forces the inverter to shut down. 

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On 3/2/2021 at 10:06 AM, Rikadoo said:

Just a quick note, two months ago because of conversation at the time i pulled the cover on my iota an torqued all the connections,(i just used my in. lbs torque wrench) i was surprised to find 2 connections loose enough where i beleave the wires could have wiggled loose had they not had the weatherproof fittings holding them in place. Knock on wood there were no signs of any arcing or burned areas. FYI when i bought my coach it only had a little over 200 hrs on the generator, dont know if that point relates to this topic at all, other than to say prior owners didnt rely on that type of power much. 

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Rick,

I just saw this post from ~+3 weeks ago.

Hate to break it to you but your Iota transfer switch was part of a recall that was not done.  It is a known problem that can cause a fire.  Monaco issued a recall, about the time they filed for bankruptcy, but most of the rigs did not get done

If I were you I'd recommend replacing.  

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On 2/27/2021 at 7:30 PM, Bdawg65 said:

Sorry if this is a stupid question. I am new to the rv world and recently got a 1988 Executive Prestige and have no power and sounds like this is a good place to look for my problem. But where in the system should I look for this switch?  

On my 97 Dynasty, it was on the ceiling of the bay just forward of the drive axle.  It had the water heater, the water pump, the transfer switch and the inverter.  You had to access it from the bay forward of that, through two sliding doors.  Not convenient.  

 

52 minutes ago, Dalton07 said:

The TS-30 Transfer Switch is part of our travel trailer project, which also involved the installation of a 3,000-watt inverter. With this switch, there is no momentary power loss when switching between primary and secondary or return power sources. It's pre-wired so all I had to do was plug everything in. The purpose of the ATS is to cut back to the "Grid" power in the event the inverter drains battery power and/or if the solar array creates an overvoltage condition that forces the inverter to shut down. 

I believe you need to check the spec sheet on this.  It is only a 30-Amp transfer switch, and is designed to switch between a generator (20-45 Seconds delay) and an inverter.  Are you sure that 30-Amp is enough?  There is momentary power loss when switching (20-45 Seconds).  You will need some sort of control circuity to accomplish what you want, since it is designed to run off grid (shore power) until that fails, then switch over to the inverter output to power the load.  You indicate you want to use it backwards.  Also, unless you have additional control circuitry, this transfer switch will not know if battery power is low.  I don't know what you mean by the solar array creating an overvoltage condition - that is what your solar controller is there for (you do have one, right?).   I think you need to rethink your design.  Also, what 3000 watt inverter are you installing?  Most all modern inverters of that power have the equivalent of the TS-30 built in.

 

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9 hours ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

FWIW, if you have a IOTA transfer switch in your coach you need to unplug the shore power on your coach.  Leave it that way until you replace the transfer switch.  The problem with the IOTA transfer switch is that it switches the neutral wires only.  Not the L1 and L2 wires. 

Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Chuck, I'm not sure this comment has to do with the OPs question, but if the IOTA only switched neutrals, then you would have both L1& L2 from the generator constantly connected to L1 & L2 of the shore power.  If that happened, it truly would be dangerous.  Are you contending IOTA designed & produced a product such as this? 

  -Rick N 

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50 minutes ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

No, not me but see below;

https://community.fmca.com/topic/3781-transfer-switch-iota-50r/

https://www.rvnews.com/nhtsa-issues-recalls-affecting-jayco-keystone-thor-winnebago/

There are more of these recalls if you google them.

Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Chuck, I am not questioning the recall.  I am questioning your assertion that:  "IOTA transfer switch is that it switches the neutral wires only.  Not the L1 and L2 wires. "  This statement appear to imply that they designed the transfer switch to switch only the Neutral wire, and that L1 and L2 from the shore power and the generator are permanently connected together.  I saw nothing in your referenced links that states this is the design of the IOTA transfer switch.

  -Rick N. 

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REV replaced the IOTA transfer switch as part of the recall campaign with an ESCO.  It failed within 3-4 years and I replaced it with a Progressive Dynamics PD52 unit...quiet and still functioning.  I do an annual check of lugs on the PD52 and the hard wired Progressive Industries surge protector just in case something vibrates loose.  Very happy with both units!

Adam, 2010 Neptune 37PDQ, 2019 Jeep Cherokee

 

 

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On 2/28/2021 at 3:36 PM, Timothy said:

I need to replace my IOTA. Is there in consensus on the best most direct replacement for the IOTA.

I used this one. It is an exact match as to where the existing cables enter the enclosure. It also carries a UL 1008 standard that the ESCO does not have. It has worked great. Available on Amazon.

https://wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-t-57/

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