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Tag dump switch


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Electrically the switch is likely generic.  So, just need to find a replacement that fits into the opening and cosmetically is similar.

You can even get them with engraved words (TAG Up / TAG Down).

Quick Google search should find.  You would need to post some pictures for others to provide links.

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A photo of the ID side plus the back showing the number of lugs and location would help of the switch removed from the panel.

If it is a Carling Technology switch they are readily available plus the cover is removable to install on the new switch. It just needs to be removed CAREFULLY without breaking one of the tabs on each side that hold the cover to the switch.

Edited by Dr4Film
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Very common. Used on Trailers and dump trucks with pusher or tag axles. 

2 hours ago, bmulvenna@hotmail.com said:

Anyone know where to get the tag switch located on the drivers armrest on a 2004 Dynasty? Have tried Nw rv supply, Rev group and veurinks. All say it is not available. Thanks 

NAPA or truck shops. 

 

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Your tag switch is made by Carling and is still available. Unfortunately, Monaco, in their infinite wisdom, contracted with Carling to make all their switches. This resulted in the part numbers stamped on the switches to be MONACO specific NOT Carling. The only way to determine the replacement is to cross reference the number of tabs on the back and whether it's a momentary switch or on/off. Carling has different numbers than Monaco. NW supply had the switches for $7.95 ea at one time. I purchased a bunch at that time.  The switches are interchangeable and the covers are easily popped off. The tool Mike showed makes that task very easy but it will pop off with a small screw driver too. The tool however, makes it easier to remove the switch itself from the housing.....Dennis

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I sure wish they were $7.95 ea again.  It ended up costing me $40.38 to replace the momentary switch for my front shade.  I did order two because the shipping was the same for 1 or 2.  I had contacted one of the popular salvage yards and they wanted more for a switch than what I could buy a new one for, like double the cost.  I had contacted Carling to determine what actual part number I should be looking for.  I had to do that because there was no Carling p/n markings on the switch.  Carling then directed me to the Onlinecomponents website.  Having two switches also made it easier to replace the bad one.  After lifting the full panel out of the console I could pull the connectors off the old switch one at a time and plug them onto one of the new switches, then remove the old switch and install the other new one and then swap the wires back over to the installed one.  Sine all of the wires are white with no markings I didn't want the nightmare of trying to figure out where on the switch terminals they went.  Call me lazy I guess. 🙂

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Now I have a couple of switches that the light bulb has failed (water pump and Elec AquaHot switches).  Anyone know of a source for them?  If not them I may have to order replacement switches for those.

 

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Mike, I got tired of trying to keep the lighted switches lighted. I recently heard those tiny lights are replaceable but I don't know if I have the patience to fiddle with them. I know which switches are which and simply make sure everything is off that's supposed to be off.....Dennis

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7 hours ago, Dennis H said:

Mike, I got tired of trying to keep the lighted switches lighted. I recently heard those tiny lights are replaceable but I don't know if I have the patience to fiddle with them. I know which switches are which and simply make sure everything is off that's supposed to be off.....Dennis

I have only one Carling switch which stays lit ALL the time when on, that is my Aqua-Hot Diesel Switch. All of the other Carling switches are located on the main forward drivers console, center console, passenger console or the drivers side console. Those only light up when I have the headlight switch turned on and/or the ignition switch on. Since I seldom drive at night requiring the headlights to be on the bulbs in those switches are still working after 20 years.

I was switching out the Aqua-Hot switch often until I finally bit the bullet and removed the small blown incandescent bulb and replaced it with a white LED bulb. Then I attached a resistor on the positive lead with the resistance valve that gave me the brightness of the lamp that I wanted. That's been in there over two years now and is still working. I don't expect to ever have to replace it hopefully.

I have a bunch of Carling Switch bodies and covers that I carry with me so if I get bored one day I can fiddle with some of those to set them up with LED's also.

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Richard, I did the same with the electric aqua hot switch. IMO, since I leave the electric switch on all the time, it's dumb to spend time fixing something that's eventually going to burn out anyway. The porch light switch is a different story though so I might repair that one if I get really bored one of these days. Right now it seems like there's not enough hours in the day and I'm retired.!!!  🤪...Dennis

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Dennis, I can understand your reasoning with the Electric Assist Aqua-Hot switch (which mine is a simple small Carling switch with no light) whereas the Aqua-Hot diesel switch light is important as it signals whether the Webasto has faulted or is working.

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On 5/14/2021 at 11:14 AM, Mike H said:

I sure wish they were $7.95 ea again.  It ended up costing me $40.38 to replace the momentary switch for my front shade.  I did order two because the shipping was the same for 1 or 2.  I had contacted one of the popular salvage yards and they wanted more for a switch than what I could buy a new one for, like double the cost.  I had contacted Carling to determine what actual part number I should be looking for.  I had to do that because there was no Carling p/n markings on the switch.  Carling then directed me to the Onlinecomponents website.  Having two switches also made it easier to replace the bad one.  After lifting the full panel out of the console I could pull the connectors off the old switch one at a time and plug them onto one of the new switches, then remove the old switch and install the other new one and then swap the wires back over to the installed one.  Sine all of the wires are white with no markings I didn't want the nightmare of trying to figure out where on the switch terminals they went.  Call me lazy I guess. 🙂

image.png.fd326458a413044e998ee4a5009cfa8f.png

Now I have a couple of switches that the light bulb has failed (water pump and Elec AquaHot switches).  Anyone know of a source for them?  If not them I may have to order replacement switches for those.

 

Mike I was able to find a new for my aqua hot. You have to get a STDP with light.  So controls two circuits with single throw. These are common in marine applications and referred to as contura switches. Made by Carling. Was hard to get right as most are double pull. Can't find on Google right now but could dig up my invoice if you need.

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5 hours ago, Jonbrooks said:

Mike I was able to find a new for my aqua hot. You have to get a STDP with light.  So controls two circuits with single throw. These are common in marine applications and referred to as contura switches. Made by Carling. Was hard to get right as most are double pull. Can't find on Google right now but could dig up my invoice if you need.

Got the correct switch from west marine model #17951666. it was the light in my old switch that was messing with the aqua hot controller. This switch has a separate lead for grounding the light function. The one that was in there used a diode internally to make the light work and even though I had good continuity on both circuits this was causing enough cross talk between them that the Aqua hot controller would not function correctly.  

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1 hour ago, Jonbrooks said:

Got the correct switch from west marine model #17951666. it was the light in my old switch that was messing with the aqua hot controller. This switch has a separate lead for grounding the light function. The one that was in there used a diode internally to make the light work and even though I had good continuity on both circuits this was causing enough cross talk between them that the Aqua hot controller would not function correctly.  

Thanks Jon,

I checked the West Marine web site and found it.  Do you know what the complete Carling part number is for it?

 

image.thumb.png.5661102a9c37d613149e540c26aa2d14.png

Edited by Mike H
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Thanks all. Guess I will have to figure something else. The switch I am looking for has 5 terminals and 2 bulbs. When the headlights are on the top bulb lights but the tag does not lift. When the switch is turned on the tag should lift and the bottom bulb is lit. Everything works fine but the tag does not lift. There is continuity across terminals 7 and 8 that light the top bulb when the headlights are on. There is continuity across terminals 5 an 6 when  the switch is turned on. This lights the bottom bulb to indicate the tag is in the lift position. There is no continuity across  terminals 3 an 5 whether the switch is on or off. If I check voltage at pin 5  in the base for the switch it has 12.7 volts. 

Thanks for all the input.

 

Edited by bmulvenna@hotmail.com
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37 minutes ago, bmulvenna@hotmail.com said:

Thanks all. Guess I will have to figure something else. The switch I am looking for has 5 terminals and 2 bulbs. When the headlights are on the top bulb lights but the tag does not lift. When the switch is turned on the tag should lift and the bottom bulb is lit. Everything works fine but the tag does not lift. There is continuity across terminals 7 and 8 that light the top bulb when the headlights are on. There is continuity across terminals 5 an 6 when  the switch is turned on. This lights the bottom bulb to indicate the tag is in the lift position. There is no continuity across  terminals 3 an 5 whether the switch is on or off. If I check voltage at pin 5  in the base for the switch it has 12.7 volts. 

Thanks for all the input.

 

I contacted Tina Helbig, Applications Specialist via email tina.helbig@carlingtech.com and she helped me identify the proper switch I needed and suggested onlinecomponents.com as a source for it.  You may need to send her photos of the switch and what it's used for to help her with her research.  Mine was a momentary switch for the driver side front shade.  The Carling part number should be a VLD1_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ .

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When you find the proper part number for your switch this may be another source for you:

image.thumb.png.7a059bc0a58980076ba6979cc50d5280.png

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2 hours ago, Mike H said:

Thanks Jon,

I checked the West Marine web site and found it.  Do you know what the complete Carling part number is for it?

 

image.thumb.png.5661102a9c37d613149e540c26aa2d14.png

Sorry I just knew what I needed to operate the aqua hot.

 

2 hours ago, bmulvenna@hotmail.com said:

Thanks all. Guess I will have to figure something else. The switch I am looking for has 5 terminals and 2 bulbs. When the headlights are on the top bulb lights but the tag does not lift. When the switch is turned on the tag should lift and the bottom bulb is lit. Everything works fine but the tag does not lift. There is continuity across terminals 7 and 8 that light the top bulb when the headlights are on. There is continuity across terminals 5 an 6 when  the switch is turned on. This lights the bottom bulb to indicate the tag is in the lift position. There is no continuity across  terminals 3 an 5 whether the switch is on or off. If I check voltage at pin 5  in the base for the switch it has 12.7 volts. 

Thanks for all the input.

 

,This is a common marine switch as well. Two Light's with double throw. Up for a function, down for a function. If you have truly determined its the switch find this in the marine line. The tag not lifting could be nothing to do with the actual switch itself?

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1 hour ago, Jonbrooks said:

Sorry I just knew what I needed to operate the aqua hot.

 

,This is a common marine switch as well. Two Light's with double throw. Up for a function, down for a function. If you have truly determined its the switch find this in the marine line. The tag not lifting could be nothing to do with the actual switch itself?

Thanks. The switch does not have the proper continuity between terminals 3 and 5 as described above. If I jump terminals 5 and 3 in the base the tag lifts as it should so I think that indicates a faulty switch.

 

 

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3 hours ago, bmulvenna@hotmail.com said:

Thanks. The switch does not have the proper continuity between terminals 3 and 5 as described above. If I jump terminals 5 and 3 in the base the tag lifts as it should so I think that indicates a faulty switch.

 

 

That is a proper "drivability test" as we say in the automotive service industry!  Factory service manual ah maybe.... logical diagnosis always leads to correct result. Believe me the right switch is available. Does it have a up position and down pull to it or is it in fact a single throw switch doing two functions. you mention 5 connection lugs on back side of switch. That's what the aqua hot switch I needed has. One ground two continuity poles. 

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Have you tried to take the switch apart and see if the contacts just need cleaning? It always worked for me as long as the switch has not melted yet. Just don't drop the spring... saved a lot of google time that way.

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1 hour ago, Jonbrooks said:

That is a proper "drivability test" as we say in the automotive service industry!  Factory service manual ah maybe.... logical diagnosis always leads to correct result. Believe me the right switch is available. Does it have a up position and down pull to it or is it in fact a single throw switch doing two functions. you mention 5 connection lugs on back side of switch. That's what the aqua hot switch I needed has. One ground two continuity poles. 

Single thro 2 functions.

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