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ARP controller


Joel & Susanna
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Our fridge is giving us a small problem when running on LP. The ARP controller is shutting down the power to the controller board when using LP after 10-30 minutes. I stop, reset the power, go for another short while. On 120 shore power or on the generator, the fridge runs forever and very satisfied with cooling. 

Can anyone share what might be going on, I do not have the setup info on this controller, the readout seems to be measuring? 

Any info sure would be appreciated. I had this fridge rebuilt by a fly by night shop five years ago, their gone, so is my ARP info!

3C9C956C-E8BA-4019-85FA-70A73B135AB0.jpeg

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If it shuts off, it is telling you that it detected higher temperature than what's set as a safe limit. It is protecting you. It should turn on when safe again. Was gonna send the link but Gary beat me to it.

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Thanks guys, I appreciate the info and link. I never waited to see if it came back on by itself. Now the question is, if I’m producing too much heat with LP, there is a valve right there that perhaps needs to be throttled down to match the boiler temp using shore or generator power? I might give this a try. I think it is full on now.

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57 minutes ago, Joel & Susanna said:

Thanks guys, I appreciate the info and link. I never waited to see if it came back on by itself. Now the question is, if I’m producing too much heat with LP, there is a valve right there that perhaps needs to be throttled down to match the boiler temp using shore or generator power? I might give this a try. I think it is full on now.

LP will always give better performance (more heat extraction, or more cooling) than 110 VAC.  The unit was designed to run on propane.  The AC powers heaters to simulate the propane burner.  Too much heat from the AC heaters may cause fatigue of the coils since it's more concentrated.  This is the primary cause of refrigerator fires, not tree propane.  If the device is overheating on propane, your not getting rid if the heat up the flu.  Are your fans working properly? 

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I agree with Rick N assessment. There are two box fans part way up the rear of the cooling unit that are used to help exhaust the heat from the back.

If they are not working or are only partially working, there in lies your problem. See photo.

image.thumb.png.2e203d6aea5eadab624e5933de803b4e.png

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LOL - Dr4Film That's *MY* unit!  The fans he's talking about are in the top cooling fins, not the middle ones. 

My insulation went away, not sure if it was rodents or deterioration of the insulation.  Replaced with galvanized ducting but still not performing as it should.  I also put shims in my top vent, raising it 1/4".  Still no change.  I need to replace the cooling unit and still in denial . . . or waiting on Winter? 

My unit shut off once from overheating, in AC mode.  Had to "wave the magnet" (not ARP).

Best,

- bob

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Thanks again, I am learning so much from you all about this unit. We are on a trip to Branson at the moment, not sure if the fans are being activated but I’m now watching this carefully. When we get back from this trip it will be my first priority to check out. Max temp so far was 191 on AC, I have it running on LP max temp 184, not moving however. I will bypass the control board tonight and see if the fans work.

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Its also possible something is blocking the flue tube internally.  Theres a heat disperser that drops into the flue tube from the top that can be removed allowing access to the inside. Would have to pull the fridge out to get to it.  And When i worked for an RV dealer anytime we pulled a fridge we always flip it side to side and let it gurgle, they work better after doing this too. 

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