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Slide out stalling


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Large bedroom slide out began to stop/stall about half way through both retraction and extension a long time ago. Was getting worse as time when on. I'd just wait a few seconds after it stalled then it would continue to full open or close.

I replaced the motor a while back because it quit all together.

Still have the same problems with it stalling. Now, much worse in that it stopped 4 times yesterday but did restart and eventually fully open/close.

Probably, it's a resettable fuse getting weak or possibly the relay. Maybe they are one in the same?

Before I spend a lot of time troubleshooting, I'm sure someone out there has the answer.

Thanks in advance.

Gary K

06 Windsor

 

 

 

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Our large slide in a 2007 Dynasty acted up like that.  We thought something was going out. When we replaced all our batteries the problem went away. We did find out the batteries were in really bad shape. 

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I was just at the Maintenance Session in Goshen.  2 Guys from REV came to my 05 Diplomat because my slides were acting sluggish and completely stopping.  They immediately looked at the gears and track under the slides and confirmed their suspicion... The "lubricant" I used gummed up the workings.   They recommended WD40 (yes, WD40) not as a lubricant, but to dissolve the old stuff.  Spray down the track, wipe it off, run the rooms in and out, and repeat till clean.  After cleaning, lubricate with T9.  They also tightened the bolts holding on the motor, in the bay ceiling, behind the driver's seat.    The slides are working much better.

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Are the rollers under the bed pedestal rolling on something solid like stainless steel plates or are they rolling on wood? Have the rollers dug into the wood at all under the pedestal? Have the rollers dug into the aluminum floor covering on the outside of the slide? Does the motor actually stall or does the slide stall but the motor keeps trying to move the slide?

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Based on your description you slide may be out of adjustment or have a damaged or obstructed slide roller. Something is bogging down the motor (assuming it is electric) which caused one previous motor to quit all together. If you are in or near central FL Talin RV does a good job of adjusting slodeout. I had ours done there this winter. I would suggest you check for obstructions, and if that is not the cause have your slide rollers inspected and the slide adjusted. This might be a DIY depending on your skill level but it is critical that it be done on level ground with the coach aired down.

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If your slides are electric, a low voltage due to bad batteries will cause an increase in current, when you move the slide, which can cause the drive controller to stall. Make sure you have good batteries and run the engine, generator or shore power when moving slide to see if your problem continues or changes. If you see a positive change in the way the slide moves you probably need to check out your batteries, battery terminals, chassis grounds, etc.

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Raise the bed.  Open up the cover to expose the slide mechanism.  You might find that the aluminum  angle irons that attach the slide to the bed box has come loose.  I added several wood screws to hold the angle irons to the bed box.  That will keep the bed box from cocking when opening and closing.

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17 minutes ago, 1nolaguy said:

Based on your description you slide may be out of adjustment or have a damaged or obstructed slide roller. Something is bogging down the motor (assuming it is electric) which caused one previous motor to quit all together. If you are in or near central FL Talin RV does a good job of adjusting slodeout. I had ours done there this winter. I would suggest you check for obstructions, and if that is not the cause have your slide rollers inspected and the slide adjusted. This might be a DIY depending on your skill level but it is critical that it be done on level ground with the coach aired down.

Many good points regarding slide out problem.

Here are answers:

Talin did check it out during first year of Pandemic shortly after I replaced motor. They added metal plates because rollers were digging into slide wood frame. Made any adjustments required. No stalling after metal plates install, however, a few times operating after departing, stalled again.

Everything clean and properly lubed.

Never operate slide without shore power and batt charge outputting above 13 VDC.

When I say stalling, slide stops and motor stops.

My belief is that the thermal fuse has deteriorated as most all breakers eventually do and needs to be replaced. Probably, relay as well as the points are likely burned causing a high resistance contact.

Can anyone tell me, are the fuse and relay separate devices and where are thy located?

Gary K

 

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38 minutes ago, OhReally said:

If your slides are electric, a low voltage due to bad batteries will cause an increase in current, when you move the slide, which can cause the drive controller to stall. Make sure you have good batteries and run the engine, generator or shore power when moving slide to see if your problem continues or changes. If you see a positive change in the way the slide moves you probably need to check out your batteries, battery terminals, chassis grounds, etc.

All good comments.  I might add or suggest the following.

You have to isolate the problem.  I had a similar issue with a hydraulic slide….YES…I know yours is electric.  Probably a Lippert just like my bedroom slide.  What I learned about electric trouble shooting my hydraulic motor will apply to your situation.

For starters, assuming that Monaco used many of the Windsor components and circuits when they transitioned out of Windsor’s into the Camelot, this is what I would look for…

Find the rear slide control board.  A Windsor owner can chime in here.  It has 4 Bosch 30 amp control relays,  Two for each side.  There is also a 30 amp Mini breaker in the system.  The Mini circuit breaker supplies power (10 gage wire) to the control board,  then the Relays supply the proper polarity power to the motor.  We just learned a few months ago that there is a hidden terminal strip on the Camelots.  It distributes power from a buss to the various “mini” circuit breakers.  The lugs on this terminal strip will loosen.  Therefore, the voltage will drop and the current goes up.  I WOULD point out that a faulty Bosch relay can be erratic.  But, I doubt that is the case as both the retraction and extension relays would have to be bad.  But, you COULD swap the wardrobe relays with the bedroom relays and it it still has issues, you have eliminated the relays.

I don’t know if there are 06 Windsor prints in the files,  look there and see.  The OTHER “trick”, once you find the board….which is USUALLY ain’t the wardrobe, but under a false or removable floor or panel there, is to hookup or use GOOD power.  Get a length of 10 gage copper stranded wire,  put a ring terminal on one end son you can attach it to the positive terminal on either the house or the chassis battery and hook the other end up to the 30 A  POWER IN terminal on the board.  You can run this through the wardrobe window.  If that solves it….then you need to find the Mini 30 A breaker.  Typically, these are robust.  They WORK, but are not designed for constant on/off or trip/reset.  You can usually get enough info from the breaker logo and PN and such and Amazon has a wide assortment.  BUT…you have GOT to ensure that the incoming power to the mini breaker is good and that there are no upstream connection issues.

The control board will have FIVE 10 gage wires.  The reds and blacks will be the power to the motors,  so the fifth one is INCOMING power.  That is the one to disconnect and use known good power.  BTW, the Red and Black on that connector (3 10 gage wires) is usually the BED slide connector.

Good Luck. Let know what you find….

 

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1 hour ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

Raise the bed.  Open up the cover to expose the slide mechanism.  You might find that the aluminum  angle irons that attach the slide to the bed box has come loose.  I added several wood screws to hold the angle irons to the bed box.  That will keep the bed box from cocking when opening and closing.

X2 My screws were getting loose 

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So I had the EXACT problem in my Executive with an electric bedroom slide. 

I was overlooking the obvious. I had a bad switch on the wall. Changed the switch several months ago and problem resolved. 

Good luck,

Ken

 

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I also had to replace the bedroom slide switch in the Windsor as it was getting really flaky stopping at times while moving in or out plus also not starting up when first pushing the momentary button.

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1 hour ago, Grampy OG said:

So I had the EXACT problem in my Executive with an electric bedroom slide. 

I was overlooking the obvious. I had a bad switch on the wall. Changed the switch several months ago and problem resolved. 

Good luck,

Ken

 

Thanks Ken and Dr4Film for switch experience.

Never considered that could be the problem. Too obvious, I suppose. 😁

I was able to find the exact same resettable fuse/cb online. It's one the way. Going to check the switch later today. Thanks!!

Gary K

 

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On 5/13/2022 at 10:11 AM, a4epilot said:

Thanks Ken and Dr4Film for switch experience.

Never considered that could be the problem. Too obvious, I suppose. 😁

I was able to find the exact same resettable fuse/cb online. It's one the way. Going to check the switch later today. Thanks!!

Gary K

 

Ken & Dr4Film,

Just swapped the 2 bedroom slide out switches. Big slide that had the problem went in and out one cycle without stopping. 🙂 Didn't try more times yet. 

Also, did in and out with small slide now that it has big slide switch. It too had no problems but not surprised if it is a faulty switch as the motor draws fewer amps and for a shorter period.

At this point, looks like problem probably is the big slide out switch.

I've ordered 2 new switches and already have a replacement resettable fuse on the way.

Keep you posted.

What would we all do without helping each other? Can't imagine how much time and effort, probably $ as well, if I had gone deep into trouble shooting before I might have found it to be the switch? Maybe, I'm jumping the gun until I do more cycles but having the successful operation this morning is a first in many years.

Thank you both so much for taking the time to pass on your knowledge!!

Gary K

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15 minutes ago, a4epilot said:

Ken & Dr4Film,

Just swapped the 2 bedroom slide out switches. Big slide that had the problem went in and out one cycle without stopping. 🙂 Didn't try more times yet. 

Also, did in and out with small slide now that it has big slide switch. It too had no problems but not surprised if it is a faulty switch as the motor draws fewer amps and for a shorter period.

At this point, looks like problem probably is the big slide out switch.

I've ordered 2 new switches and already have a replacement resettable fuse on the way.

Keep you posted.

What would we all do without helping each other? Can't imagine how much time and effort, probably $ as well, if I had gone deep into trouble shooting before I might have found it to be the switch? Maybe, I'm jumping the gun until I do more cycles but having the successful operation this morning is a first in many years.

Thank you both so much for taking the time to pass on your knowledge!!

Gary K

Glad you are making progress.  Richard has good trouble shooting experience as well as Windsor knowledge.

Yes, it could be the switches, but your comment about the small slide current, I think. Is in error.  The slide switches only pull milliamperes of current.  They power the control relays which switch the 30 amp Bosch relays. Those switches are usually rated at 15 - 20 amps….  OK for lower draw and fused circuits.   Typically, when a slide is erratic  and doesn’t work at all, AND you see some dimming or lights drop out, then one suspects a bad connection.  The slides have, as you recall, 4 relays and they will switch 30 amps.

 YES, like any electro mechanical part, frequent cycling can play havoc.  Once you install the new switches, then that should tell the tale. The pause or hesitation that you reported is more of a symptom of high amperage draw and a resettable circuit breaker resetting.  You may want to replace the circuit breaker if this happens again and then see what happens.  If the problem comes back, then there has to be, assuming you have good batteries, a loose of faulty connection…which could even be in the Main House battery switch….but you would really see that in your front hydraulic slides.

Keep us informed….

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Posted (edited)

Lot of good information. On a side note I did some research and experimentation and decided that " wet " applied spray graphite was an excellent lube for the rack and pinion assembly. Does not attract dust and produces a lower  coefficient of friction than traditional solvent lubes. Several applications allowing each to dry yields best results. Wish I had of taken some amp readings for a baseline before. Noticeable increase in speed in my case. 

Edited by Gary Cole
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22 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Glad you are making progress.  Richard has good trouble shooting experience as well as Windsor knowledge.

Yes, it could be the switches, but your comment about the small slide current, I think. Is in error.  The slide switches only pull milliamperes of current.  They power the control relays which switch the 30 amp Bosch relays. Those switches are usually rated at 15 - 20 amps….  OK for lower draw and fused circuits.   Typically, when a slide is erratic  and doesn’t work at all, AND you see some dimming or lights drop out, then one suspects a bad connection.  The slides have, as you recall, 4 relays and they will switch 30 amps.

 YES, like any electro mechanical part, frequent cycling can play havoc.  Once you install the new switches, then that should tell the tale. The pause or hesitation that you reported is more of a symptom of high amperage draw and a resettable circuit breaker resetting.  You may want to replace the circuit breaker if this happens again and then see what happens.  If the problem comes back, then there has to be, assuming you have good batteries, a loose of faulty connection…which could even be in the Main House battery switch….but you would really see that in your front hydraulic slides.

Keep us informed….

Tom, excellent point about the switch load. I knew that but just didn't think it through. A little embarrassing as I have a good electrical background even with circuit design; however, you'd never know from my post. 😒 

I just received a new resettable fuse. Will install after I receive the 2 new switches coming tomorrow then keep my fingers crossed. 🤞🙂

Batteries are good and master cutout switches were replaced with high quality marine ones some years back. No other 12 VDC issues anywhere. However, slide relays still original.

Thanks for taking the time to respond. Always much appreciated!

 

Gary K

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2 hours ago, a4epilot said:

Tom, excellent point about the switch load. I knew that but just didn't think it through. A little embarrassing as I have a good electrical background even with circuit design; however, you'd never know from my post. 😒 

I just received a new resettable fuse. Will install after I receive the 2 new switches coming tomorrow then keep my fingers crossed. 🤞🙂

Batteries are good and master cutout switches were replaced with high quality marine ones some years back. No other 12 VDC issues anywhere. However, slide relays still original.

Thanks for taking the time to respond. Always much appreciated!

 

Gary K

As an aid to trouble shooting as well as future folks learning “where to look first”….  If it suits you, could you do the simple thing first….new switches.  If that solves it, then we all learned that even low amperage control switches can cause erratic or intermittent operation….and then, do as you did, and swap the errant switch.  One never knows how an electronic gremlin will disguise itself and act like or put the blame on a fellow component (wow,,,,that was way more prose than I intended…LOL).

Bottom line, do one fix at time and test and thoroughly exercise…..then we can learn.  As I think back on it, the past cases of erratic or slow slides, in some cases, have been accompanied by “lights out or dimming”, which was fixed by tightening all the connections on the terminal strip where they were attached,  your design is different as they are hardwired, but the same concept exists.  Once the OP found the hidden terminal strip and the 3 or so resettable breakers, and tightened all up, BINGO …. Smooth sailing,.

As to the relays….I am of the opinion that BOTH the extend and retract would fail concurrently is highly unlikely. But, consider a high current draw resulting from a poor (high resistance) connection or lube/mechanical issues)  and, in theory, the 30 amp contacts could have  been damaged.

thanks….

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