Residential fridge venting

[klcdenver]

You can just get some styrofoam insulation board and cut in strips to cover the openings on the back of existing cover. Use the aluminum duct tape to secure them in place. Then cut one piece of styrofoam to cover the strips and tape it securely. This way it is airtight and insulated. No paint to try and match and much cheaper.

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, MHRookie said:

Wondering if anyone knows where to get a solid cover.  I have a residential fridge so no need for vents.  I‘ve only seen a couple coaches have them.  Possibly custom??  With all the eyes on this site, I’ll give it a shot.

happy trails,

mhrookie

Moderator's EDIT.....Duplicate Topic.  Merged into last topic with details.

Kurt,

Please do a search before posting a "generic help me" post.  There have been many posts on this over the years. You will find the answer .....  I actually wrote a How To with pictures in this post.  Scroll up or go to Page 2.  All the info you need is there. 

NOW.  IF you have the ROOF Vent and NOT a side top vent, you need to pull the roof vent cover off and totally insulate the interior.

If you are contemplating installing a Residential refrigerator, then if you have the insulation on the side walls between the refrigerator and the interior walls, that MUST be removed.  IMPERATIVE. If you leave it in, you will not have proper air circulation for the Residential Unit. The Gas units were totally different.  The insulation was both a heat barrier and also, somewhat of a CO2 safety issue.

Good Luck.

[MHRookie]

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Moderator's EDIT.....Duplicate Topic.  Merged into last topic with details.

Kurt,

Please do a search before posting a "generic help me" post.  There have been many posts on this over the years. You will find the answer .....  I actually wrote a How To with pictures in this post.  Scroll up or go to Page 2.  All the info you need is there. 

NOW.  IF you have the ROOF Vent and NOT a side top vent, you need to pull the roof vent cover off and totally insulate the interior.

If you are contemplating installing a Residential refrigerator, then if you have the insulation on the side walls between the refrigerator and the interior walls, that MUST be removed.  IMPERATIVE. If you leave it in, you will not have proper air circulation for the Residential Unit. The Gas units were totally different.  The insulation was both a heat barrier and also, somewhat of a CO2 safety issue.

Good Luck.

Tom,

     Thanks for the tid bit but I had searched and was specifically asking about the “solid panel”.

 My 2003 has an residential upgrade and I’ve closed off the vents but would like the “solid” panel if available.  Guess I know my options & path forward since it doesn’t appear the product exists.

good day..

[Michael Powell]

Just a thought get a piece of fiberglass or metal ang glue it on the inside and don't need to paint the new panel....

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, MHRookie said:

Tom,

     Thanks for the tid bit but I had searched and was specifically asking about the “solid panel”.

 My 2003 has an residential upgrade and I’ve closed off the vents but would like the “solid” panel if available.  Guess I know my options & path forward since it doesn’t appear the product exists.

good day..

Yes, they do exist.  I am pretty sure that the 2008 Dynasty came with a blank panel when the Res Refer was installed. Don't know where you find one. They were not insulated. The need to insulate was brought to you by the "Energy Czars".  Modern (last 5 - 10 years) freezers and/or refrigerator freezers are only designed for limited "Environments".  Thus if you upgrade to a recent Res Refer, you have to make sure that the compartment is insulated, otherwise, it WILL shut off. NOW....would a blank panel stop that?  Don't know. But the 2008 Dynasty and the older 2005 Exec's were OK.  

BUT, when you put in a 2017 Samsung like I did....and the vent is totally open at the top and bottom (I have two) and it gets close or below Freezing....the Samsung will shut off. That is A FACT.  Failed three nights in a row....at the CG at the shop. I called Samsung and they sent out a tech to check it.  I was in the process of insulating it. He said.  Insulate.  When it starts to frost or the temps drop (central NC), I get about one "It don't run call" per week where an older unit was replaced on an outside porch or in an unheated garage.....the new ones are more sensitive.

SO....YES....there are blanks.  Where or who has them?  The question is....will that provide enough insulation for your current (probably Energy Star) unit.  Only way to find out....find a big piece of cardboard.  Either Double Wall or single.  If Single, cut two pieces and tape the edges. Fit it (a little blue tape on the outside) and test that when the temps drop below freezing.  If you unit turns off or doesn't cool, then you need to insulate a blank even if you find one.  The Samsungs will NOT reset.....there is no magic button.  It just displays the set temps and it is warm....ice melts and milk gets warm. The ONLY way to reset.....let it sit....POWER OFF for a few minutes....then turn back on...

Good Luck...Did not mean to demean or talk down, but the question was a bit vague as other responded....

[birdshill123]

As Tom has posted you must insulate the original vent door or make a new one. The problem with making a new one is that it has to be painted. On our Dynasty it is at least 3 colors. Swoops. A body shop would charge about $500. It is not complicated except making square holes for those cheap plastic inserts that turn to lock it in place. . One could use simple turn type compartment locks as they use a round hole. I have seen other residential installations and I think Monaco did a good job. When my fridge died, I installed a new Jenn Air and used the same mounting method. But I did add 2 angle brackets at the bottom front of the fridge.  The original fridge had a rear access panel that you could reach by removing the outside rear"door". A few Robetson screws and you could see the guts of the fridge. My new fridge requires you to either pull the fridge or move it forward. I was thinking of making a wooden platform for my wooden appliance mover that would be the exact height. I think the most important decision when changing over to a residential fridge is the brand choice. I understand that the Samsungs are a great fit but they are probably the worst appliances in the marketplace. It is too bad that Dometic  or Norcold do not make an electric fridge that fits

[jacwjames]

I cut a piece of 3/4" styrofoam the fit tightly into the opening behind the fridge, this is separate from the vent door.  It fits tightly enough that it stays in place without any fasteners.  I then took the original vent door and cut strips of styrofoam and used aluminum duct tape to secure them to the vent door.  So with the two pieces of styrofoam there is quite a bit of insulating R value and the the dead air space helps. 

I also put some insulation up in the original vent hole and put a thin piece of plywood over that from inside before I pushed the fridge in the last time. 

[Martinvz]

I did the same with our new residential fridge. I cut a piece of 1” green construction foam board to fit the opening behind the fridge and made sure it fits very tight. The board was left over from a previous project. This was supplemented by a second layer (just to make sure. I also wedged 2 pieces of the same material into the flue to seal that off.

[johncvandoren@gmail.com]

On 7/16/2022 at 9:45 AM, Frank McElroy said:

Mine is the same.  Also, access through the removable side wall door, is needed to remove the refrigerator is to remove the hold down bracket attached to the rear refrigerator frame and the coach floor.

What are the dimensions of the access panels on the 08 Dynasty?

Edited October 28, 2023 by johncvandoren@gmail.com
More info

[Frank McElroy]

I don't know the exact dimensions but it is basically a standard refrigerator 3 row side wall vented opening for a typical Norcold or Dometic refrigerator.  On mine it's a solid painted aluminum cover with the same plastic hold clips as a vented cover.