Woody O Posted November 21, 2022 Share Posted November 21, 2022 I have a 2006 Monaco Dynasty. I've noticed several times now that when I pull the headlight switch, all the lights come on except the headlights. Play with switch a little and the headlights come on. So, I went to parts list and all I saw was I think, a 1974 series headlight switch. So, has anyone replaced their switch in a 2006 coach? If so, do you still have the part number? Thanks, Woody O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidL Posted November 21, 2022 Share Posted November 21, 2022 You might spray some WD40 into the switch and on / off / dimmer a bit to clean the contacts. If that doesn't work, then you will have the switch so you can take a picture or get a part number of of it for finding one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timaz996 Posted November 21, 2022 Share Posted November 21, 2022 Mine is a 78-84 chevy pickup or van 3/4 ton. I wired in a relay to just run the headlights after the factory one melted. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bykerboy Posted November 22, 2022 Share Posted November 22, 2022 Replaced mine on my 2006 Monaco Knight. It is an OEM Chevrolet part: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9SAJC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wamcneil Posted November 22, 2022 Share Posted November 22, 2022 Before you start the work, watch a YouTube video on changing the Chevy switch. There’s a button on the switch housing to release the shaft that’s not super intuitive. And you’re working behind the dash without clear sight. Cheers Walter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution VinceB Posted November 22, 2022 Solution Share Posted November 22, 2022 On 11/21/2022 at 6:12 AM, DavidL said: You might spray some WD40 into the switch and on / off / dimmer a bit to clean the contacts. If that doesn't work, then you will have the switch so you can take a picture or get a part number of of it for finding one. I'd go with spray contact cleaner - it won't leave an oily residue nor gather dust & lint, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sambo88 Posted October 21, 2023 Share Posted October 21, 2023 Make sure all the wires connecting to the switch are pushed in all the way and tight. I had a headlight issue but noticed the ground wire was almost pulled out the back and a few others were pulled back slightly. I made sure to push them in tight and I haven’t had my issue since. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 My headlights stopped working about 10 miles from home last night. I kept smelling "something burning", like plastic, for hours before their demise. The final coffin nail was when I adjusted the dash light intensity then <POOF> NO HEADLIGHTS (dash lights still ok). We got home with worthless fog lights and by the light of 4-way flashers. FUN STUFF! On 11/22/2022 at 7:58 AM, Bykerboy said: Replaced mine on my 2006 Monaco Knight. It is an OEM Chevrolet part: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9SAJC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Can anyone confirm compatibility of this switch for a 2003 Holiday Rambler Endeavor? I would imagine the same switch part # for centuries, but . . . . TIA, - bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wamcneil Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 (edited) That's the one in our Monaco parts list: Advanced Auto Parts 5970857 for 1973 Chevy C10 truck AC Delco D1588 That's what I used for 2003 dynasty Edited February 12 by wamcneil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timaz996 Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 Don't just change the switch, wire in a relay to handle the headlight load. The switch is not made to handle all of the clearance lights and the headlights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 LED headlights, 2/3 reduced load - bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 It may be the headlight switch but I’d check the J12 connection on the VIP Smart Wheel first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 1 hour ago, Ivylog said: It may be the headlight switch but I’d check the J12 connection on the VIP Smart Wheel first. If I had one! 🤣 In searching for the cause of the "slight burning smell" the shaft of the switch was warm. Not hot, just warm. dash light dimmer was near 100%. When I adjusted the dimmer amount the headlights went kaput. It lasted 20 years and is a known weak point. I think a new switch will last longer than the coach. - bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomV48 Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 (edited) On 11/21/2022 at 6:12 AM, DavidL said: You might spray some WD40 into the switch and on / off / dimmer a bit to clean the contacts. If that doesn't work, then you will have the switch so you can take a picture or get a part number of of it for finding one. My go to has always been a spray from. radio Shack they used to call "Color TV tuner cleaner". With the near death of Radio Shack, where I used to buy it, I am told you can still find it on EBay. It is THE BEST electrical contact cleaner ever. Edited February 13 by TomV48 Typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 2 hours ago, TomV48 said: It is THE BEST electrical contact cleaner ever. Yup, trichlorotrifluoroethane and / or tetrafluoroethane. Pretty common "back in the day". I may still have some . . . . I would NEVER spray WD-40 into electronics, which is mostly kerosene. - b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 1 hour ago, cbr046 said: Yup, trichlorotrifluoroethane and / or tetrafluoroethane. Pretty common "back in the day". I may still have some . . . . I would NEVER spray WD-40 into electronics, which is mostly kerosene. - b FIRST UP….your magic potion is a banned chemical. If someone is peddling, you can get a big reward for snitching. It has two ugly properties…. One…an ODC or Ozone Depleting Chemical…. https://www.in.gov/idem/toxic/files/studies_toxwatch_trichlorotrifluoroethane.pdf Second, it is, I think, a known carcinogen….it’s “street name” was Freon 113. It was used in about every vapor degreasing machine in the US. Banned….Dupont stopped production….then the Government taxed, progressively higher, each year. https://oehha.ca.gov/chemicals/trichlorotrifluoroethane-freon-113 Folks are trolling for bulk cylinders….but, I don’t think there are any aerosol cans left….as in, based on their age, they leaked or the propellant destabilized…. NOW…about WD-40….. Well, the NASA scientists that formulated Water Displacement #40 might disagree… I have used it often. It often frees up sticking push button switches or where plastic parts are “sort of stuck”. About 50% of the time, I will then follow up with a high quality ELECTRONIC cleaner or sometimes “canned air”. I have never had a plastic part melt or dissolve. BUT, hiit them with an “Electrical Contact cleaner….beware. There was a dusty environment in a room in our church’s closet….and ther was an intermittent cat 5/6 ethernet connection.Sprayed the male end of the cable with a “electrical contact cleaner”…generic from Lowes. It melted or dissolved the end of the cable. Taught me a lesson…. I have known folks to spray the ignition switch (column lock style) with “Silicone”. Wouldn’t start the next morning. Took a copious amount of NASA’s WD#40 to flush out the silicone….worked slick…..but they then used electronic cleaner to cleanse or displace the WD40. 100K later….stilled worked. My experience….maybe not yours….but the design or formulation was WATER DISPLACEMENT and they stopped at the 40th “magic potion”…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 Well, it wasn't the headlight switch . . . . Installed new switch and still no headlights (high or low). I noticed the old switch was date coded 2017. Hmmmm. I started checking fuses, connectors, etc. I couldn't find a common ground bus bar under the dash or in the front compartment. I finally opened the access panel under the transmission selector (lots of wires run through here to the FRB) and fiddled with the harnesses. Headlights started working. Now I can't get them to fail. So it remains a mystery. Next trip at the end of the month will be daylight only hours, going and coming. I'll see if they're still working after all the vibration. - bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 4 hours ago, cbr046 said: Well, it wasn't the headlight switch . . . . Installed new switch and still no headlights (high or low). I noticed the old switch was date coded 2017. Hmmmm. I started checking fuses, connectors, etc. I couldn't find a common ground bus bar under the dash or in the front compartment. I finally opened the access panel under the transmission selector (lots of wires run through here to the FRB) and fiddled with the harnesses. Headlights started working. Now I can't get them to fail. So it remains a mystery. Next trip at the end of the month will be daylight only hours, going and coming. I'll see if they're still working after all the vibration. - bob Welcome to the wonderful world of Monaco.... THINK GHOST BUSTERS. We have a crack team of members that have experienced about every folly or breakdown known to mankind. BUT, when they are called into action...even they FAIL. Bottom Line. You had the EVER POPULAR "Loose Connection". This is a common failure on some Monaco's. Often an assembly error. Sometimes corrosion on the contacts. Other times, a connection on the boards. Headlights are notorious for this. Happened to many 2009 Camelot owners. They started at the steering column. Disconnected each harness and reseated it. They chased the harnesses to the area in front of the firewall and onto or into the FRB. Odds are... You probably fixed it. BUT, if it the mating harnesses did not fully engage....then odds are... It will return. I would actually trace the harnesses and do the PM and make sure all is well. Better to do this NOW than on some dark night when the headlights go out Unfortunately, there is NO GHOST BUSTERS team that can say with 100% certainty that it is fixed.. BUT the folks that have followed the PM protocols rarely report a reoccurrence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 I've seen female Molex pins actually expand where they're in the socket but not actually touching the male counterpart. Add some current and it gets worse. Who knows. After watching @MyronTruex video (again) I'm guessing my problem is at 7:13 in the video. Hence the "slight burning smell". Maybe tomorrow I'll crawl under and contort myself (again) or pull the dash apart (again) and see what I can find. https://youtu.be/usiP4myzxxU?t=433 If I do find something definite I'll post it. Or just roll the dice and drive. Driving by the light of 4-way flashers isn't so bad. 😲 - bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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