allphase8 Posted March 17, 2023 Share Posted March 17, 2023 2006 Monaco Camelot 40PDQ So due to failure of original Sanicon have replaced with a Sanicon 600. It has worked fine but today I was dumping and flushing tanks and it suddenly quit. Pretty sure have blown a fuse or tripped a circuit breaker. So after looking in the usual places and som unusual places have not been able to locate it. Need help identifying location. Thanks Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdw12345 Posted March 17, 2023 Share Posted March 17, 2023 Have you checked the circuit at the santicon with a multimeter to confirm your thoughts on the blown fuse? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allphase8 Posted March 17, 2023 Author Share Posted March 17, 2023 I will do that but the fact that everything washing fine then suddenly no power and the lamp next to switch is also out leads me tho the fuse/circuitbreaker assumption. was working Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted March 17, 2023 Share Posted March 17, 2023 Does your '06 have the small fuse panel in the bathroom, next to the breaker panel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allphase8 Posted March 17, 2023 Author Share Posted March 17, 2023 No my Camelot has a 110v Breaker panel and a 12V panel in the bedroom closet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted March 17, 2023 Share Posted March 17, 2023 Check that 12v panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyronTruex Posted March 17, 2023 Share Posted March 17, 2023 Check in the battery compartment for a rather large plastic box. Inside mine there are breakers and fuses. Not a Camelot but worth checking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
throgmartin Posted March 17, 2023 Share Posted March 17, 2023 If you had the old sanicon and then installed a 600 then you should have changed the fuse. The new 600's require a re-settable 30 amp fuse. I cannot say how your old sanicon was installed but with the ones I have installed I ran all new 10 gauge wire. I picked up power off a block in the battery compartment and placed a 30 amp auto re-set fuse. The new 600 sani cons come with an inline fuse just off the sani con on/off switch box inside your wet bay. The reason for the upgrade in wire and fuse amperage is because the new turbo motors suck more juice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution windsorbill06 Posted March 17, 2023 Solution Share Posted March 17, 2023 (edited) Chris is right, My Windsor (similar to the Camelot back in 2006) came from the factory with a 12ga wire run for the sanicon. That can't handle the new 600 model. The CB is in the curb side, rear run bay---see picture. I'm waiting for my sanicon to give up, and then I'm going to replace it, but I'll have to pull a new #10 wire with a new fuse. #8 is needed if it's a long run. Edited March 17, 2023 by windsorbill06 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allphase8 Posted March 17, 2023 Author Share Posted March 17, 2023 Yep have something that looks like that in the rear electric bay. So the consensus is that the 12ga wire will not carry the load for more or less 16'. Guess I will have to snake a number 10 and total by pass the old switch set up. Thanks Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windsorbill06 Posted March 18, 2023 Share Posted March 18, 2023 1 hour ago, allphase8 said: Yep have something that looks like that in the rear electric bay. So the consensus is that the 12ga wire will not carry the load for more or less 16'. Guess I will have to snake a number 10 and total by pass the old switch set up. Thanks Ron Yea. #12 is too small for the new sanicon. Your breaker popped this time, it's too small for the new pump.--it's either a 15 or 20 amp. The wire might melt next time--think Fire, especially if your using the larger breaker that comes with the new pump. That little thing with my arrow is a resettable fuse/circuit breaker. I think a #10 is only rated for about 20' (from memory), longer than that, it's a #8. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J A Posted March 18, 2023 Share Posted March 18, 2023 Several members have ran a new 10Ga. power supply to thier current RV Sanicon, and have a huge improvement in the performance of it. You may want to check your voltage, at the power supply point, then the switchfor the Sanicon, then at the macerator pump. Quite a drop in voltage. Monaco used 14 and 12 Ga. wire which is too small. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted March 18, 2023 Share Posted March 18, 2023 3 hours ago, allphase8 said: Yep have something that looks like that in the rear electric bay. So the consensus is that the 12ga wire will not carry the load for more or less 16'. Guess I will have to snake a number 10 and total by pass the old switch set up. Thanks Ron There is a file on how to rewire your existing switch, including PIN numbers, so that a 30A Bosch relay will switch it. Put Sanicon in the search box and use the drop-down (everywhere) and select files. I wrote it and many members used it. This was for the higher output conventional Sanicon pump, not the Turbo, but the circuit will wok for you. Find a REAL 30 A Bosch relay. Used crimped terminals and don’t use the cheap “plug in” sockets. You can buy a real terminal block socket, but just plugging in the crimped terminal to the relay will work. Simple and foolproof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windsorbill06 Posted March 18, 2023 Share Posted March 18, 2023 I have read about some putting a nylon sleeve over the sanicon hose to help protect it from rubbing and eventually leaking. Anyone do this, does it work, and what source is the sleeve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allphase8 Posted March 18, 2023 Author Share Posted March 18, 2023 Got this on Amazon for the larger hose on for the Sanicon 600 i recently installed. Went through several hoses on the old Sanicon. It looks like it will work to protect the hose. https://a.co/d/1qN9cjP Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windsorbill06 Posted March 18, 2023 Share Posted March 18, 2023 8 minutes ago, allphase8 said: Got this on Amazon for the larger hose on for the Sanicon 600 i recently installed. Went through several hoses on the old Sanicon. It looks like it will work to protect the hose. https://a.co/d/1qN9cjP Ron Ron, thanks for that link. I think that is exactly what I had heard about. I'm just finishing up a pretty extensive inverter swap, lithium installation and all new solar project. Pulling new #10's for the sanicon should be quick and easy. (famous last words!) May even do #8's if I have that laying around. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allphase8 Posted March 19, 2023 Author Share Posted March 19, 2023 Thanks for everyones thoughts and suggestions. Purchased the items to run a 10a power and ground to the new Sanicon. Will totally bypass the existing wiring to the old Sanicon. Ron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis H Posted March 19, 2023 Share Posted March 19, 2023 1 hour ago, allphase8 said: Thanks for everyones thoughts and suggestions. Purchased the items to run a 10a power and ground to the new Sanicon. Will totally bypass the existing wiring to the old Sanicon. Ron My fuse was behind the panel above the macerator. Like previous posts, the gauge wire used by Monaco was insufficient for the extra load. I ran 10 ga from the battery compartment, installed the fuse there, because it's more accessible and fed the wire through behind the grey water tank into the wet bay. Haven't had any issues since. Going on three years now....Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windsorbill06 Posted March 19, 2023 Share Posted March 19, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, allphase8 said: Thanks for everyones thoughts and suggestions. Purchased the items to run a 10a power and ground to the new Sanicon. Will totally bypass the existing wiring to the old Sanicon. Ron Ron, Are you planning on using the OEM switch or the new one that comes with the pump? Your original switch isn't rated at 30 amps. Edited March 19, 2023 by windsorbill06 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allphase8 Posted March 19, 2023 Author Share Posted March 19, 2023 That is the way I would like to do it as the New Sanicon is already wired through the old switch to the switch box on the new sanicon. Can you provide more detailed instructions on how to do this? My electrical abilities while limited are not nonexistent. Is it a matter of changing the VF4-1511 relay that is currently there with a different relay? If so is there a part number for a replacement relay. Thanks Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happycarz Posted March 19, 2023 Share Posted March 19, 2023 The new switch, on the black box, only turns on & off a relay. So, no worries using the OE switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windsorbill06 Posted March 19, 2023 Share Posted March 19, 2023 (edited) 31 minutes ago, allphase8 said: That is the way I would like to do it as the New Sanicon is already wired through the old switch to the switch box on the new sanicon. Can you provide more detailed instructions on how to do this? My electrical abilities while limited are not nonexistent. Is it a matter of changing the VF4-1511 relay that is currently there with a different relay? If so is there a part number for a replacement relay. Thanks Ron Harry just did a write up specifically on how to do this. He'll come along and probably comment. Harry, I don't care what you say, you have ESP! Edited March 19, 2023 by windsorbill06 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happycarz Posted March 19, 2023 Share Posted March 19, 2023 (edited) SANICON switch wiring, for switch with separate indicator light. My switch lights up when turned on and the wiring for it is only slightly different than below. I’ll provide how if someone needs that version. After the Turbo is installed per instructions and verified it is working properly, you can then change a few wires so you can use the original Sanicon switch. It may sound complicated, but not really a big deal. Once the original switch plate is removed from panel, take pictures. You might have colored wires or white wires. It is good to know the original setup. Unplug the wires from existing Sanicon switch. One should have a pigtail jumper, that is, two wires into one terminal. That one went to the original Sanicon pump and will be abandoned. The one without the jumper should be hot. Please verify. Remove both wires from the indicator light. Plug the above hot wire onto one of the indicator light terminals. Make a long jumper to go from the other indicator terminal to the switch. Put a terminal on one end, install it and let other end dangle. Any wires on the indicator terminal won’t be used again. Remove the fuse from the 10ga wire you installed previously. (FYI, I wired mine directly to the house batteries.) Go to the black switch box, remove the screws and take the cover off. Remove both blue wires from the switch. Make two extensions that go from blue wires to the OE switch. Give yourself some slack in the wires to make things easier. Use tape or insulated terminals so the blue wires never touch inside the box. Fish the wires through the existing compression sleeve/nut. Run these two wire behind the panel and through the hole to where the OE switch panel hangs. Strip the ends of the two extension wires and the jumper wire on the indicator light. You now have three wires with stripped ends. Take stripped end of the indicator light wire and touch to one of the others. The indicator light will light or not. Do same to other wire. Take the wire that does not cause the light to go on, along with the indicator light jumper and twist the stripped ends together. Put a terminal on and attach to one of the switch terminals. Put a terminal on the other wire and attach it to other switch terminal. It doesn’t matter what terminal each wire goes on. Your light should go on & off with the switch. The removed fuse doesn’t affect this. Insert the fuse you remove earlier and test Sanicon again. The original SaniCon fuse only operates the indicator light, not the Sanicon Note: If you can hear the pump running, you know that it is on. You will not need the light to let you know that it is on. In other words, the light is optional. I included how to utilize it in the above instruction. If not wanting an indicator light, tape the ends to insulate off all the original switch wires and indicator wires. Just use the two wires from the black box to the OE switch. It doesn’t matter which wire goes where. Edited March 19, 2023 by Happycarz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted March 19, 2023 Share Posted March 19, 2023 17 minutes ago, Happycarz said: The new switch, on the black box, only turns on & off a relay. So, no worries using the OE switch. That is exactly how I did it several years ago, except I salvaged the OEM Switch. It is rated at 15 Amp…so no worries. Download the file for specific terminal numbers and how to wire. Make sure you use a 30 or 40 Amp “Bosch style” relay and the wiring from the battery or buss is protected with a 30 amp resettable CB and you use #10 from the battery all the way to the Sanicon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happycarz Posted March 19, 2023 Share Posted March 19, 2023 I believe the picture shows a Bosch relay already in the system. What am I missing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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