Jump to content

Leg 2 of 50 Amp service not working Monaco 2005 Executive

rschley

By rschley
in Electrical Systems

 Share
Go to solution Solved by Tom Cherry,

Recommended Posts

  • Solution
Tom Cherry

Tom Cherry

Posted
  • Solution
Posted
24 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Not really. No wires go directly from your ATS to the inverter / charger.

Ditto.  The shore comes in via cord or reel and goes directly to the ATS.  The output of the Genny goes directly to the ATS.  When the ATS “SENSES” or measures voltage from the Genny, it automatically switches to Genny….despite having Shore plugged in.

The ATS then takes the power to the main panel with the dual 50 Amp breakers.  You have, or you are being told that one line is dead or open.  Since both sources have the same error, pretty safe to assume that the issues are in the ATS.  IF you have the pictured IOTA, BE ADVISED.  It is a personal safety and fire hazard.  They were recalled, but since Monaco was gone, older coaches were not covered….owners responsible.

REPLACE IT IMMEDIATELY.  The most popular one is the ESCO LPT50BRD, but some prefer other brands.

As far as VOM trouble shooting goes, if you have the skill set to do live and lethal circuit testing, then start measuring the Black & Red to ground and White (neutral). You should have 120 VAC. Check the Red to Black on Shore, assuming 50 A pedestal.  Should be 240 or so.  Test the shore terminals.  Assuming you have a 10 KW Genny, same.  An 8Kw Will be Zero as the legs are in phase.  If you have incoming power….

Then test the “load” or maybe “Line”.  Should be the same look for burned or charred connections.  With shore unplugged and a genny circuit breaker (on Genny) OFF, then check for contact or wire tightness.  If both shore and Genny Have power and the load or line or the only other one doesn’t, bad ATS. 

IF all measure the same, the odds are a loose terminal in the main panel.  Same deal. Measure on the 50 amp breaker.  All power off and a Genny CB off…check lugs.
 

Thats it 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
96 EVO

96 EVO

Posted
Posted
48 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

Actually you are correct, I didn’t think that thru did I. 

That's ok!

I had already typed out 'it could also be the cord reel', before I re-read the original post and realized the issue was both shore & gen power :classic_unsure:!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
tmw188

tmw188

Posted
Posted

I had the Esco in a National I once owned, small simple looking design but because of some manufacturing issue that I had to fix I decided not to use it in my changeover in the Windsor. My old IOTA looked brand new inside but I wasn’t going to take the chance and I replaced it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
vito.a

vito.a

Posted
Posted

Auto transfer switches require regular exercising.  When we sit on shore power or in storage they can get sticky and/or make noise.  I would start up the generator for about 10 min and shut it down for a few min then start it again for another 10 min.  Do this while plugged into shore power so the ATS has to switch back and forth.  

It also helps to spray some Hosa Deoxit on the mechanism.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites
georgecederholm

georgecederholm

Posted
Posted

On our 2005 Exec, the Esco (not recalled Iota) transfer switch is in the bay immediately forward of the cord storage (Glendinning “big gray tub). The transfer switch is just to the left of the Monaco-installed monitoring box that I think feeds the Aladdin system shown on the Kenwood dash display.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
96 EVO

96 EVO

Posted
Posted
8 minutes ago, georgecederholm said:

On our 2005 Exec, the Esco (not recalled Iota) transfer switch is in the bay immediately forward of the cord storage (Glendinning “big gray tub). The transfer switch is just to the left of the Monaco-installed monitoring box that I think feeds the Aladdin system shown on the Kenwood dash display.

Perfect!

If Ron hasn't found it yet, he should be able to now!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tom Cherry

Tom Cherry

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Or lit up by 240v 😮!

Let’s hope not….not sure what the site’s liability insurance covers.  
 

I had an electrician (was the Engineering Manager) who was working in his mom’s unlit cramped pump house and was going to install a new pressure switch.  He knew his brother, also an electrician, had wired it and replaced the burned out 120 VAC outlet that the power came from.  He slid his hand up the Romex to unplug it and then realized his brother hadn’t put the outlet back in the handi box.  He was straddling a 1” copper water line.  He said it was an eternity before he could shift his body weight and get his hand free.  He fixed it….properly.  Drove to the electrical supply house where his brother was now working and cold cocked him, breaking his jaw.  He said he could taste copper in his mouth for months.  I knew the owner as we purchased a lot from him.  I started the tale….he stopped me and said “Gerald didn’t say a word….walked in and his haymaker or right cross landed perfectly….then turned around and left….it was several weeks before Andy (the brother) told us the rest of the story…”.

Assume Ron is still troubleshooting and learning or waiting on a tech….I guess he will respond eventually…

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Chris Leedle

Chris Leedle

Posted
Posted

Ron should be having fun.  When I had one leg of the 50 amp go bad it was a very interesting troubleshooting time.  One of the first things I found was that my 2007 Camelot still had the IOTA transfer switch.  A quick search in Google gave me the background on that recall.  Ordered a replacement and waited for it to arrive.  Easy to replace and I had high hopes that was the fix.  I am really glad I found out about the issue with the IOTA and that I had replaced it, but unfortunately I was still missing one leg of the 50 amps.  After bit of troubleshooting I discovered I had both legs going into my power reel, but only one leg coming out.  A real pain to measure the voltage in the engine bay where the box is connecting the reel to the lines going to the transfer switch.  It was tucked away to the left of the opening behind the air intake.  Now it got really interesting.  Pulled the 50 amp line off the reel and wired it directly into the electrical box in the engine bay.  This got everything up and going in the RV.  I then ordered a replacement reel, decided to go with the Glendinning CRRA50-12-50, as this would give me extra length on my input line.  I ended up ordering it from RV Upgrade Store as they had the best price, https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Glendinning-CRRA50-12-50-Cablemaster-p/CRRA50-12-50.htm .  Of course I now had the pleasure of installing it.  The only access in the 2007 Camelot is through the bump up in the bedroom closet.  To make it even more fun I had to remove and once done reattach part of the sewer line from the washer.  I did have to make some minor modifications to the new reel to allow space for the sewer line to squeeze past, and also had to repair the water line going to the washer when I nicked it.  But after a couple of hours I was able to get it in, wired up and the power back up in the coach.  Great learning experience and now I have a much better power reel. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tom Cherry

Tom Cherry

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, Chris Leedle said:

Ron should be having fun.  When I had one leg of the 50 amp go bad it was a very interesting troubleshooting time.  One of the first things I found was that my 2007 Camelot still had the IOTA transfer switch.  A quick search in Google gave me the background on that recall.  Ordered a replacement and waited for it to arrive.  Easy to replace and I had high hopes that was the fix.  I am really glad I found out about the issue with the IOTA and that I had replaced it, but unfortunately I was still missing one leg of the 50 amps.  After bit of troubleshooting I discovered I had both legs going into my power reel, but only one leg coming out.  A real pain to measure the voltage in the engine bay where the box is connecting the reel to the lines going to the transfer switch.  It was tucked away to the left of the opening behind the air intake.  Now it got really interesting.  Pulled the 50 amp line off the reel and wired it directly into the electrical box in the engine bay.  This got everything up and going in the RV.  I then ordered a replacement reel, decided to go with the Glendinning CRRA50-12-50, as this would give me extra length on my input line.  I ended up ordering it from RV Upgrade Store as they had the best price, https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Glendinning-CRRA50-12-50-Cablemaster-p/CRRA50-12-50.htm .  Of course I now had the pleasure of installing it.  The only access in the 2007 Camelot is through the bump up in the bedroom closet.  To make it even more fun I had to remove and once done reattach part of the sewer line from the washer.  I did have to make some minor modifications to the new reel to allow space for the sewer line to squeeze past, and also had to repair the water line going to the washer when I nicked it.  But after a couple of hours I was able to get it in, wired up and the power back up in the coach.  Great learning experience and now I have a much better power reel. 

I had an open neutral.  My Progressive HW50C kicked out.  Since we have virtually the same rig, did you cut off the plug and do a continuity test by pulling the cut off shore over to the ATS and checking.  Mine was simple.  I had a bay door open with only the assistance of the gas strut and it bumped the plug on the pedestal. Wasn’t like I hit it with a 2 pound sledge.  I did, though, pull the air intake hose and tightened up the lugs in the terminal strip in the J Box behind it.  Then, I decided to sacrifice 6” of line cord and bingo….it was the plug.  That has happened numerous times….so just a suggestion….

The OTHER issue is self inflicted.  Folks always pull out the reel and run the power there.  This especially impacts full timers.  You need to, with the spring contacts on the stock OEM reel, always pull it out randomly.  If you have an issue, often times running it in and out a few times burnishes or polishes the contacts.

You had a JOB…..JUST passing on a couple of tips to others…..thanks for your experience.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Chris Leedle

Chris Leedle

Posted
Posted

Tom,  Yes, I checked ohm'ed out the plug, and check the main cord from the plug to the reel.  I ran the reel back a forth a bunch and still did not have any luck.  It was an open circuit from the wire connections in the reel to the electrical box in the engine compartment.  That is why I was able to reuse the power cord hard wired to the interconnect in the engine compartment.  This kept me going for a month while waiting for the reel and time to do the work.   

 

Ben,  I also understand that my issue was different than Ron's, his is either at the transfer switch or at his AC panel.  Easy to check if you have the knowledge and skills to work with electricity, or know a good tech to help you.  I certainly recommend using a good tech if you are not skilled and knowledgeable as I do not want anyone to hurt themselves.

 

I just felt like sharing the fun I had.  🙂

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tom Cherry

Tom Cherry

Posted
Posted
32 minutes ago, Chris Leedle said:

Tom,  Yes, I checked ohm'ed out the plug, and check the main cord from the plug to the reel.  I ran the reel back a forth a bunch and still did not have any luck.  It was an open circuit from the wire connections in the reel to the electrical box in the engine compartment.  That is why I was able to reuse the power cord hard wired to the interconnect in the engine compartment.  This kept me going for a month while waiting for the reel and time to do the work.   

 

Ben,  I also understand that my issue was different than Ron's, his is either at the transfer switch or at his AC panel.  Easy to check if you have the knowledge and skills to work with electricity, or know a good tech to help you.  I certainly recommend using a good tech if you are not skilled and knowledgeable as I do not want anyone to hurt themselves.

 

I just felt like sharing the fun I had.  🙂

I hate to be dumb, but did you cut off the plug and ohm out the cut off end to the shore to either the ATS or the J-box?  If not, then my experience would bet on a bad molded lug…..which we have seen several.  That was both a question as well as a tip.  I’ve done way too much injection molding and had a few auto termination machine to trust a molded crimped connection I can’t see…..

Just still curious…

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Chris Leedle

Chris Leedle

Posted
Posted

Tom,  No I did not cut off the plug.  It was the two piece style and I opened it and checked wire end to wire end.  I also used the plug and cord for over a month before I had time to swap out the reel.  I didn't take any pictures or I would put one up for you.  A little background on me, I have over 40 years experience in field service supporting a wide variety of equipment.  I still manage a large team that supports Plasma Etchers in the Semiconductor Industry.  I know my way around high voltage and schematics.  As a manager I like doing all my own work on my Camelot as I don't do any hands on in my work anymore. 

Thanks for all your feedback.  More eyes and brains on a problem makes it easier to get fixed. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...