Newbie looking to buy DP for cross country travel

[JBaldy]

Hello all, I am new to the diesel pusher world but have always coveted one over the years. I have owned several travel trailers, 2 class C Rialtas and most recently a class B Travato. I am now looking for something to drive cross county, comfortably and reliably, twice a year between FL and WA. I am thinking an older pre DEF DP might fit the bill nicely although I realize its not necessary the most cost effective way to go. 

I found a very nice, lightly used, well maintained 01 Diplomat 36D with a reasonable price tag. (haven't bought it yet).  Would this be a good candidate for a 3500 mile trip across 3 mountain passes? Assuming of course that it is mechanically sound.  I am not looking for the highest end, best built coach available but rather one that would offer a comfortable reliable ride at an affordable price.

Is there anything in particular about this year/model to look out for? Any known issues to be aware of? I am very mechanically inclined and do all my own maintenance and repairs so if something needs to be done, I would want to do it myself. 

Thanks for any input you may have. 

[cbr046]

We have a sister ship, a 2003 HR Endeavor 38PBDD and love it compared to the Class C gasser we had before it. 

You'll ALWAYS have issues.  Our current issue is a cracked exhaust manifold.  Maybe I ran up some hills too hard, I don't know.

The fuel system lift pump only pumps for 30 sec to prime the CAPS pump and the lift pump tends to leak.  If it drips then it's sucking air into the CAPS pump (your main high pressure fuel pump on the engine) while running down the road.  This can be very bad.  Many of us don't like the idea of the engine sucking fuel all the way from the fuel tank so we've installed an auxiliary fuel pump (FASS or AirDog typically).  I installed a FASS system and bypassed the leaking lift pump. 

I use Biobor Jr as a fuel additive.  Call me conservative, but replacing a CAPS pump is $$$$.

You could probably navigate parking lots, etc with your Rialtas.  The Diplomat's RR8R chassis has a significantly longer wheelbase making a quick stop in back of Wendy's .. . . . well, I can't do that anymore. 

Sign up for the TSD Open Roads fuel program and use it through their app.  You'll save BIG on re-fueling and get to use truck lanes at truck stops.

There's probably a few more things . . . .

- bob

 

[Gary 05 AMB DST]

Jeff, the two things that I came to appreciate about my 05 Ambassador after I bought it new was, no DEF which I think started in 08, and no multiplex. Two areas that I had no knowledge of. Grew up in the 60's when they only used wire to communicate and gas to travel. I am seriously considering a 60's/70's car to tow. No computer, no electric steering, no multiplex electronics. just points, plugs and light bulbs.

Gary 05 AMB DST

[timaz996]

As what Bob H. said. I planned on doing the FASS pump and lost my CAPS pump first. I do have a FASS system now.

[Wrayj1]

Jeff,  not sure what your budget is, but I have an '07 Holiday Rambler Endeavor with less than 43k miles.  It has the Cummins 400 9l with the Alison 6 speed transmission.  No DEF, in great shape. It's listed on this forum.  I'm negotiable from the listed price.  it will get you through the mountain passes. 

[Fred L]

Hi Jeff,

I just started the process to sell our 2004 Monaco Camelot 40 PDQ. 110,060 miles. Original owner. Just passed PA state inspection. Been 49 states, and through Canada to Alaska from New York, (twice). East west to LA area 2 times (our son lives there). Up and down I-95 east coast to Florida Keys every year.  Will be asking $77,500. But like life, everything is up to debate.

[JBaldy]

3 hours ago, cbr046 said:

We have a sister ship, a 2003 HR Endeavor 38PBDD and love it compared to the Class C gasser we had before it. 

You'll ALWAYS have issues.  Our current issue is a cracked exhaust manifold.  Maybe I ran up some hills too hard, I don't know.

The fuel system lift pump only pumps for 30 sec to prime the CAPS pump and the lift pump tends to leak.  If it drips then it's sucking air into the CAPS pump (your main high pressure fuel pump on the engine) while running down the road.  This can be very bad.  Many of us don't like the idea of the engine sucking fuel all the way from the fuel tank so we've installed an auxiliary fuel pump (FASS or AirDog typically).  I installed a FASS system and bypassed the leaking lift pump. 

I use Biobor Jr as a fuel additive.  Call me conservative, but replacing a CAPS pump is $$$$.

You could probably navigate parking lots, etc with your Rialtas.  The Diplomat's RR8R chassis has a significantly longer wheelbase making a quick stop in back of Wendy's .. . . . well, I can't do that anymore. 

Sign up for the TSD Open Roads fuel program and use it through their app.  You'll save BIG on re-fueling and get to use truck lanes at truck stops.

There's probably a few more things . . . .

- bob

 

Good info Bob, thanks. Does the lift pump tend to fail due to age or being worn out? I'll look into the FASS system.

I found out about bio growth in diesel, my brother in law had an old Mercedes that kept plugging fuel filters. Figured out it was bugs. 

Does yours have the same Roadmaster 8bag 8shock chassis? Does it ride well? Any better or worse than others? 

1 hour ago, Wrayj1 said:

Jeff,  not sure what your budget is, but I have an '07 Holiday Rambler Endeavor with less than 43k miles.  It has the Cummins 400 9l with the Alison 6 speed transmission.  No DEF, in great shape. It's listed on this forum.  I'm negotiable from the listed price.  it will get you through the mountain passes. 

Thanks, but I'm looking for something less than 40' to start with for a couple reasons. One is the intimidation factor of something that long and the other is the very real consideration of getting in and out of our driveways. 

[Wrayj1]

Understandable.

[cbr046]

20 minutes ago, JBaldy said:

Good info Bob, thanks. Does the lift pump tend to fail due to age or being worn out? I'll look into the FASS system.

. . . . kept plugging fuel filters. Figured out it was bugs. 

Does yours have the same Roadmaster 8bag 8shock chassis? Does it ride well? Any better or worse than others? 

Thanks, but I'm looking for something less than 40' to start with for a couple reasons. One is the intimidation factor of something that long and the other is the very real consideration of getting in and out of our driveways. 

The lift pump gasket tends to go.  You can re-tighten the 3 bolts . . . for a while.  Sometimes they leak through the electrical connector.  Sometimes they just give up.

The FASS system continually runs fuel out of the tank, through it's 2 filters, then back into the tank.  The process is called "polishing".  In addition it supplies 15-18 psi to the CAPS pump.  This puts less strain on the pump.

Yes, I have the RR8R chassis.  The RR4R is a shorter wheelbase (LaPalma, Knight, etc) with a smaller engine (Cummins 5.9 ISB)

With the RR8R you may have to reinforce your concrete . . .  the RR4R is also lighter.

- bob

 

[Mocephus]

When you find the one you like, make sure you have it inspected by an NRVIA certified inspector. They will find things that even the seller may not know about. Also be sure to have the inspector conduct a fluid analysis on engine oil and coolant, and transmission fluid. Don’t forget the fluid analysis on the generator too. We did all of these when we purchased ours and for a few hundred dollars, it saved us thousands in repairs that the dealer had to eat. It’s also a great negotiating tool on the final price! Happy shopping!

[JBaldy]

3 hours ago, cbr046 said:

The lift pump gasket tends to go.  You can re-tighten the 3 bolts . . . for a while.  Sometimes they leak through the electrical connector.  Sometimes they just give up.

The FASS system continually runs fuel out of the tank, through it's 2 filters, then back into the tank.  The process is called "polishing".  In addition it supplies 15-18 psi to the CAPS pump.  This puts less strain on the pump.

Yes, I have the RR8R chassis.  The RR4R is a shorter wheelbase (LaPalma, Knight, etc) with a smaller engine (Cummins 5.9 ISB)

With the RR8R you may have to reinforce your concrete . . .  the RR4R is also lighter.

- bob

 

The unit I'm looking is 36' with 2 slides and has the Roadmaster RM8C chassis,  Cummings 330 ISC 8.3L engine and Allison 3000M World transmission. Should I expect a decent ride and highway driving experience? Wonder what type of mpg to expect.

Where would the lift pump be located on this unit? Near the fuel tank?

7 hours ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Jeff, the two things that I came to appreciate about my 05 Ambassador after I bought it new was, no DEF which I think started in 08, and no multiplex. Two areas that I had no knowledge of. Grew up in the 60's when they only used wire to communicate and gas to travel. I am seriously considering a 60's/70's car to tow. No computer, no electric steering, no multiplex electronics. just points, plugs and light bulbs.

Gary 05 AMB DST

My thoughts exactly, not sure I would go so far as wanting a 60s or 70s toad though. You forget just how crappy and unsafe those things drove compared to the new stuff. Get a Jeep JK, can't get much simpler than that to work on and its got air bags.

[JBaldy]

3 hours ago, Mocephus said:

When you find the one you like, make sure you have it inspected by an NRVIA certified inspector. They will find things that even the seller may not know about. Also be sure to have the inspector conduct a fluid analysis on engine oil and coolant, and transmission fluid. Don’t forget the fluid analysis on the generator too. We did all of these when we purchased ours and for a few hundred dollars, it saved us thousands in repairs that the dealer had to eat. It’s also a great negotiating tool on the final price! Happy shopping!

Words of wisdom for most I'm sure, thanks. Well if the seller is a dealer we already know they don't know crap and even if they did they would lie about it. I'm not about to deal with a dealer or an inspector for that matter. I'll take my chances and do my own inspection and deal with an individual. For what I'm going to pay for this thing, I can eat most anything it has to offer. 

[cbr046]

1 hour ago, JBaldy said:

Where would the lift pump be located on this unit? Near the fuel tank?

On the ISC engine, passenger side, just before the secondary fuel filter.  The fuel filter output goes directly to the CAPS pump.  The top of the secondary filter is a great place to install a sensor for fuel pressure. 

- bob

[MJ.STIGER]

Welcome JBaldy. As a recent owner of a 2005 Monaco Exec. A bit bigger than what you are a looking at. But in comparison that make is well made. I think it will get you where you want to go Plus more. 

Everyone is correct you will have to do repairs as time goes. But if its sound and has passed your sniff test. And maybe even an inspection. Its a great make and should treat you well.  You would be driving a DP with an engine that could be serviced at almost any major truck stop along your way. What i have learned thus far in my journey. Is the older models where built a bit more sound and not just slapped together. Your base of the chassis and engine are a solid base. 

The fear of " Am i looking at the wrong coach?" was in the back of my head too. But with education and this forum. You in the right place with the right people i think it will work out for you. 

[Dick Roberts]

On 8/2/2023 at 11:03 AM, JBaldy said:

Hello all, I am new to the diesel pusher world but have always coveted one over the years. I have owned several travel trailers, 2 class C Rialtas and most recently a class B Travato. I am now looking for something to drive cross county, comfortably and reliably, twice a year between FL and WA. I am thinking an older pre DEF DP might fit the bill nicely although I realize its not necessary the most cost effective way to go. 

I found a very nice, lightly used, well maintained 01 Diplomat 36D with a reasonable price tag. (haven't bought it yet).  Would this be a good candidate for a 3500 mile trip across 3 mountain passes? Assuming of course that it is mechanically sound.  I am not looking for the highest end, best built coach available but rather one that would offer a comfortable reliable ride at an affordable price.

Is there anything in particular about this year/model to look out for? Any known issues to be aware of? I am very mechanically inclined and do all my own maintenance and repairs so if something needs to be done, I would want to do it myself. 

Thanks for any input you may have. 

Welcome, you'll find this is a great place to get good info on your soon to be new DP. I knew nothing about MH's in general this past January when my wife and I sold our home in FL and bought a 1999 36B Diplomat, for a really good price. And now a little over six months and 5000 miles later, we're still on the road having a blast. We had the engine serviced and tires replaced before we left FL, and had a few issues on the trip up to IL but nothing major. And we met a great mobile diesel mechanic in TN who's now our great friend, Ron Kizer, who will come to you if you need help. We have replaced both AC's, the microwave, installed a tankless hot water heater, and many small items that will be a continuing upkeep cycle. 

First tank of fuel I was getting almost 6 mpg's. After the service at Cummins, I'm getting over ten. Now that I'm getting used to driving it, it handles really well. If yours has the same steering system as mine, you'll love the way it handles. I can do a 4 point turn on most two lane roads. At least one of my airbags was leaking, so I replaced all 8 of them. I'm replacing all of the ladder stanchions tomorrow. We'll be heading back south again over the next 5 or 6 months, and along the way I'll be replacing roof fans, roof seals, and such. By the end of our first year, I'll have fixed or replaced just about everything in and on the coach. We'll have an almost brand new 25 year old luxury MH. 

You say you're not looking for the highest end or best built coach, but that is exactly what you're looking at. If it passes your inspection and you buy it, put some new tires on it and take it to Cummins and have them service both the engine and the generator, then take it to an Allison shop and have that serviced. I only suggest that so you would have a base line for future service that you'll be doing. 

As far as comfort while cruising the hi-ways, not quite as comfy as my old 08 Impala, but I can handle 3 or 4 hours without a break. And I'm old. 🙂

[JBaldy]

29 minutes ago, Dick Roberts said:

Welcome, you'll find this is a great place to get good info on your soon to be new DP. I knew nothing about MH's in general this past January when my wife and I sold our home in FL and bought a 1999 36B Diplomat, for a really good price. And now a little over six months and 5000 miles later, we're still on the road having a blast. We had the engine serviced and tires replaced before we left FL, and had a few issues on the trip up to IL but nothing major. And we met a great mobile diesel mechanic in TN who's now our great friend, Ron Kizer, who will come to you if you need help. We have replaced both AC's, the microwave, installed a tankless hot water heater, and many small items that will be a continuing upkeep cycle. 

First tank of fuel I was getting almost 6 mpg's. After the service at Cummins, I'm getting over ten. Now that I'm getting used to driving it, it handles really well. If yours has the same steering system as mine, you'll love the way it handles. I can do a 4 point turn on most two lane roads. At least one of my airbags was leaking, so I replaced all 8 of them. I'm replacing all of the ladder stanchions tomorrow. We'll be heading back south again over the next 5 or 6 months, and along the way I'll be replacing roof fans, roof seals, and such. By the end of our first year, I'll have fixed or replaced just about everything in and on the coach. We'll have an almost brand new 25 year old luxury MH. 

You say you're not looking for the highest end or best built coach, but that is exactly what you're looking at. If it passes your inspection and you buy it, put some new tires on it and take it to Cummins and have them service both the engine and the generator, then take it to an Allison shop and have that serviced. I only suggest that so you would have a base line for future service that you'll be doing. 

As far as comfort while cruising the hi-ways, not quite as comfy as my old 08 Impala, but I can handle 3 or 4 hours without a break. And I'm old. 🙂

Thank you for that, sounds encouraging. I plan to drive this thing (if I buy it) 3500 miles from our summer home in WA to our winter home in FL. I will have 6 weeks to make sure the thing is up to the task. If all goes well, I'll drive it back next year. Hope we make it!

[cbr046]

8 hours ago, JBaldy said:

Thank you for that, sounds encouraging. I plan to drive this thing (if I buy it) 3500 miles from our summer home in WA to our winter home in FL. I will have 6 weeks to make sure the thing is up to the task. If all goes well, I'll drive it back next year. Hope we make it!

*DO* take your time and stop along the way.  You'll have a toad, right?

For the last 20 years I've been going to races on Saturday, racing on Sunday and coming home after the race up to 20 weekends / yr.  First in an SUV / cargo trailer and the last 10 yrs in a Class A.  Some of those were 8-10 hr drives, getting in at 2 - 3 am or even 5 am.  With a Class A I found myself driving on Friday to get a level parking space near registration, but that "gotta get home" never left.  Sometimes I'll spend Sunday night at camp or stop at a Rest Area or truck stop (really hard to find a space at midnite!) but I usually drive straight through. 

A few years ago I flew to San Diego to help my daughter drive he travel trailer back to Georgia.  She doesn't like to drive too long.  The first night we stopped between some 18-wheelers in Flagstaff AZ, second night was a self check-in in Santa Rosa NM.  The third night she fell asleep while I was driving.  Big mistake.  She woke up in Fairburn GA.   There wasn't a timeline.  There were so many attractions we could have stopped and checked out along the way.  But me and driving . . . . . IT'S A REALLY HARD HABIT TO BREAK!

DON'T be like Bob.  *DO* take your time and stop along the way.  And bring a toad so you can get around. 

- bob

 

[JBaldy]

1 hour ago, cbr046 said:

*DO* take your time and stop along the way.  You'll have a toad, right?

For the last 20 years I've been going to races on Saturday, racing on Sunday and coming home after the race up to 20 weekends / yr.  First in an SUV / cargo trailer and the last 10 yrs in a Class A.  Some of those were 8-10 hr drives, getting in at 2 - 3 am or even 5 am.  With a Class A I found myself driving on Friday to get a level parking space near registration, but that "gotta get home" never left.  Sometimes I'll spend Sunday night at camp or stop at a Rest Area or truck stop (really hard to find a space at midnite!) but I usually drive straight through. 

A few years ago I flew to San Diego to help my daughter drive he travel trailer back to Georgia.  She doesn't like to drive too long.  The first night we stopped between some 18-wheelers in Flagstaff AZ, second night was a self check-in in Santa Rosa NM.  The third night she fell asleep while I was driving.  Big mistake.  She woke up in Fairburn GA.   There wasn't a timeline.  There were so many attractions we could have stopped and checked out along the way.  But me and driving . . . . . IT'S A REALLY HARD HABIT TO BREAK!

DON'T be like Bob.  *DO* take your time and stop along the way.  And bring a toad so you can get around. 

- bob

 

I can totally relate. We've made this 7000 mile round trip 4 times now. The first 2 times we drove it. Did it in 5 days both ways, averaging 700 miles a day, 10 to 12 driving hours stopping only for fuel. I'm no good at stopping to look around, I look around as I'm going down the road. No need to take selfies in front of milestones and attractions either. I just want to get where I'm going. We've flown the last 2 years which is a lot quicker and less expensive but we really don't like the whole airport experience and the shuttle rides to and from are a real torture test. 

Its just been long enough that I'm starting to think that driving again might be a good idea and I love machines so buying a used DP really gets my juices flowing. I really enjoy figuring out how things work and repairing/adjusting/servicing them is very satisfying to me. I've got lots of tools and consider a job that requires something I don't have an opportunity to buy a new tool. And with a good internet connection a person can fix just about anything. 

Wan't planning on a toad, was hoping to eek out as many mpg as possible. The only reason we would need a toad is if we broke down. I guess if I didn't think the rig was going to be dependable enough, I might reconsider. But to me that's like towing a car with your car in case it broke down. I don't know, this whole thing might be a bad idea and I'll be very disappointed if the rig is tiresome and uncomfortable to drive for hours and days at a time. And there doesn't seem to be any way to know for sure except to do it. 

[cbr046]

10 minutes ago, JBaldy said:

But to me that's like towing a car with your car in case it broke down.

I'll be very disappointed if the rig is tiresome and uncomfortable to drive for hours and days at a time. And there doesn't seem to be any way to know for sure except to do it. 

A toad is nice.  I wish we had one when the wife & I go "camping" (rare) to eat out, get groceries, explore the local area, etc.  And we have a manual transmission Mini Cooper and a 4WD 4-Runner (manual transaxle) both of which would be perfect.  Good daily drivers, too.  I lose ~1/2 mpg towing a cargo trailer.  A toad can't be worse than that.  Your generator draws that much if you run the AC going down the road! 

I enjoy driving and (obviously) I'm not one to stop and smell the roses.  Once you get past the initial OMG I think you'll find driving easy and a pleasure.  You SEE SO MUCH when you're up that high.  And it rolls like a 60's Cadillac. 

There's talk about steering box and Roadmaster chassis "wandering".  I have the worse Shepperd steering box (vs the better TRW) and no Watts-Link etc and I still have a good time.  Yes, I feel side winds and truck blasts, but they're not an issue (for me).  They were worse on the gasser Fleetwood.

- bob

[daveyjo]

I had a 2001 36" Dip for many years.  It was a good coach but, like all of them, needed some maintenance.  I took it all around the US.  Up mountains, through Death Valley.  Worked pretty good after I learned to downshift and control my downhill speed better in the mountains.  Towed a toad.  I can share my old maintenance log with you if you like.  Email me at daveyjo439@gmail.com.

Dave Jones

[JBaldy]

1 hour ago, cbr046 said:

A toad is nice.  I wish we had one when the wife & I go "camping" (rare) to eat out, get groceries, explore the local area, etc.  And we have a manual transmission Mini Cooper and a 4WD 4-Runner (manual transaxle) both of which would be perfect.  Good daily drivers, too.  I lose ~1/2 mpg towing a cargo trailer.  A toad can't be worse than that.  Your generator draws that much if you run the AC going down the road! 

I enjoy driving and (obviously) I'm not one to stop and smell the roses.  Once you get past the initial OMG I think you'll find driving easy and a pleasure.  You SEE SO MUCH when you're up that high.  And it rolls like a 60's Cadillac. 

There's talk about steering box and Roadmaster chassis "wandering".  I have the worse Shepperd steering box (vs the better TRW) and no Watts-Link etc and I still have a good time.  Yes, I feel side winds and truck blasts, but they're not an issue (for me).  They were worse on the gasser Fleetwood.

- bob

Toad would offer some level of peace of mind too. Trouble is I don't have one here. 

Is there a quick visual way to differentiate the 2 steering boxes? Supposedly this thing I'm looking at has some kind of aftermarket steering fix. I'm guessing just a damper but you never know maybe the guy had the Watts Link installed. Hoping for some decent shocks anyways.

Guess no matter what there is no way of not getting blasted by wind and trucks in a 36' box. 

27 minutes ago, daveyjo said:

I had a 2001 36" Dip for many years.  It was a good coach but, like all of them, needed some maintenance.  I took it all around the US.  Up mountains, through Death Valley.  Worked pretty good after I learned to downshift and control my downhill speed better in the mountains.  Towed a toad.  I can share my old maintenance log with you if you like.  Email me at daveyjo439@gmail.com.

Dave Jones

That's very generous Dave. I would love to see your log, should be able to learn something. 

Thanks, Jeff

Edited August 4, 2023 by JBaldy
correction

[jimc99999]

I'm going to have a bit of a contrarian take here. If your primary purpose is just to cross the country in a few days as comfortably as possible, even a DP motorhome is not the best way to go unless you are getting one with an independent front suspension. I've driven our 97 Windsor cross-country 3x, and one with a car dragging a trailer. Because our travel is usually set by my wife's work schedule, we've usually crossed the eastern 70% of the country in 4 days or so, averaging 500-800 miles per day. And while the Windsor may be more comfortable, more quiet, and better handling than a gas motorhome, it's still far worse than any car. I was able to more comfortably put down more miles per day on my motorcycle (Triumph Sprint sport-tourer). 

The RR8R chassis has a front crossmember that looks like it weighs well over 1000 lbs. So every bump you hit, that entire crossmember has to move. Is the ride/handling better than gas motorhomes built on chassis that are way too small? So I've been told, I've never driven one of those. But between the wind noise compared to a car, the relative harshness compared to a car, managing traffic with brakes far worse than a car/motorcycle, and things rattling inside the motorhome (it's a house bouncing down the road), it's much more tiring to drive than a car. And in exchange, you pay higher prices for fuel and use 3x as much. If you're driving close to highway speeds, you'll get 8mpg. 

These are tradeoffs most of us are willing to make, because we spend enough time living in the motorhome to make it worth it. My wife and I lived in ours for 3 years, and most trips we take now are for a couple weeks to a couple months, so even now we spend a lot more time living in the motorhome than driving it.

If you really want to drive across the country as quickly and comfortably as possible instead of fly, I'd recommend a diesel class B van. They get 16-20 mpg, they're smaller, lighter, easier to drive and park anywhere. If you decide to spend a few hours sightseeing somewhere it's much easier to park in pullouts and parking lots than even a 36-ft motorhome. It won't take up nearly as much space in your driveway (you mentioned that as a concern, if you need to park in storage you'll be looking at an extra $100+ per month). 

Edited August 6, 2023 by jimc99999

[jacwjames]

I guess I got lucky, my coach rides and drives great.  Just done with a 2000 mile round trip, drove 750 miles in a day twice, wasn't fatigued at all.  I can drive with one hand on the wheel most of the time 2-3 fingers, both arm rests down, very comfortable.  Stopped 2 nights, once at a Cracker Barrel and the other at a Cabela's, easy on easy off, no hotel check in, no restless night of sleep in a strange bed (dreaming of bedbugs), pot of coffee in the AM, read some news, checked the weather, contemplated fuel stops after check prices on gasbuddy, then hit the road.  Quite a nice way to travel. 

We use to travel in a Suburban, it was comfortable but not nearly as nice as my Windsor.  

Downside of traveling in my motorhome is the fuel price/cost.  I get 7.5 mpg, sometimes more sometimes less.  I pull a 2005 Jeep to use when I get somewhere I want to explore and also in case of emergency.

The other side of the issue is the cost of ownership.  I own my Windsor, no lean or payment, BUT it still costs a lot to operate.  Fortunately I do most of my own maintenance, if not it would be another story, may not be able to afford it.  Annual maintenance of oil changes, lube, 3 year life for air dryer and air filter, transmission service, misc annual stuff costs money.  7 year tire change at $4-5K  It all adds up. 

Then there is the potential for a catastrophic issue.  There have been recent posts of transmission changes in excess of $19K.  Engine injector pump $5K,  Engine $25-45K, tire blow out taking out systems, lots of other stuff can and have happen.  Recommendations are to have a reserve for these types of instances, which depend on individual tolerance for risk.   Personally I have enough in reserve to handle pretty much any issue as far as repairing the coach.  

So bottom line is you've got to decide if you want to own a DP and pay for it.   For me it's worth the risk/cost/convenience but at some point it isn't I'll just walk away and have fond memories of my travels.  

Heck, even thinking about doing some cruises, >>> wonder if they'd let me drive?😁

Jim J

[JBaldy]

48 minutes ago, jimc99999 said:

I'm going to have a bit of a contrarian take here. If your primary purpose is just to cross the country in a few days as comfortably as possible, even a DP motorhome is not the best way to go unless you are getting one with an independent front suspension. I've driven our 97 Windsor cross-country 3x, and one with a car dragging a trailer. Because our travel is usually set by my wife's work schedule, we've usually crossed the eastern 70% of the country in 4 days or so, averaging 500-800 miles per day. And while the Windsor may be more comfortable, more quiet, and better handling than a gas motorhome, it's still far worse than any car. I was able to more comfortably put down more miles per day on my motorcycle (Triumph Sprint sport-tourer). 

The RR8R chassis has a front crossmember that looks like it weighs well over 1000 lbs. So every bump you hit, that entire crossmember has to move. Is the ride/handling better than gas motorhomes built on chassis that are way too small? So I've been told, I've never driven one of those. But between the wind noise compared to a car, the relative harshness compared to a car, managing traffic with brakes far worse than a car/motorcycle, and things rattling inside the motorhome (it's a house bouncing down the road), it's much more tiring to drive than a car. And in exchange, you pay higher prices for fuel and use 3x as much. If you're driving close to highway speeds, you'll get 8mpg. 

These are tradeoffs most of us are willing to make, because we spend enough time living in the motorhome to make it worth it. My wife and I lived in ours for 3 years, and most trips we take now are for a couple weeks to a couple months, so even now we spend a lot more time living in the motorhome than driving it.

If you really want to drive across the country as quickly as possible instead of fly, I'd recommend a diesel class B van. They get 16-20 mpg, they're smaller, lighter, easier to drive and park anywhere. If you decide to spend a few hours sightseeing somewhere it's much easier to park in pullouts and parking lots than even a 36-ft motorhome. It won't take up nearly as much space in your driveway (you mentioned that as a concern, if you need to park in storage you'll be looking at an extra $100+ per month). 

Thank you for that, that's what I really wanted to know. Somehow I had it in my head that these things would glide down the road like a vintage Cadillac. I wonder if one with IFS is really that much better?

I've driven the 7000 mile round trip twice, once in a brand new 2019 Silverado 2500 HD diesel pulling a small trailer and the last time in a brand new 2021 class B Winnebago Travato (Ram Promaster). The pickup truck was much more comfortable to drive than the Travato and just about as comfortable to live in. Guess its probably somewhat of a pipe dream thinking that anything I can afford to buy is going to make that long of a trip much more tolerable. If we really wanted to take our time and see the sights it might be different but we just want to get where we are going. 

I've looked at and considered the Class B Mercedes as I have heard they do ride quite a bit better but have shied away from them due to the complex nature of modern day diesel after treatment exhaust systems. I don't think I wan't anything to do with DEF, DPF, NOX, or REGEN ever again and I certainly don't want to have establish a close relationship with the local (or not so local in our situation) Mercedes stealership, if they would even work on the thing. 

 

 

[jimc99999]

19 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

I guess I got lucky, my coach rides and drives great.  Just done with a 2000 mile round trip, drove 750 miles in a day twice, wasn't fatigued at all.  I can drive with one hand on the wheel most of the time 2-3 fingers, both arm rests down, very comfortable.  Stopped 2 nights, once at a Cracker Barrel and the other at a Cabela's, easy on easy off, no hotel check in, no restless night of sleep in a strange bed (dreaming of bedbugs), pot of coffee in the AM, read some news, checked the weather, contemplated fuel stops after check prices on gasbuddy, then hit the road.  Quite a nice way to travel. 

Yes, the sleeping in strange places when traveling by car/motorcycle does suck.

I do have to pay attention with the 97 Windsor, but most of the time my hands are just resting on the wheel. But the noise level is much higher than our Jeep Cherokee, and it wears on you after a while. A lot depends on traffic level and road quality, and in the eastern US most of the highways are very busy and terrible quality. I much preferred driving in northern CA and Oregon than NC or SC or anywhere north of MD. And now from southern DE, to get pretty much anywhere I have to go around DC or NYC, or down the eastern shore through the CBBT and the terrible roads around Norfolk, so no matter which way I go I'm in for several hours of bad roads and/or bad traffic. 

But I've also done FL -> Northern CA on I-10 to I-5 and while that's a lot nicer than any travel up and down the eastern US it still gets old pretty quick, especially when you're slogging through 50 miles of rough construction in Texas with high traffic and no margins. Rough roads that cars and motorcycles soak up with little noise and drama get miserable real quick in the Windsor. 

34 minutes ago, JBaldy said:

Thank you for that, that's what I really wanted to know. Somehow I had it in my head that these things would glide down the road like a vintage Cadillac. I wonder if one with IFS is really that much better?

I'm sure a 45-ft MCI or Prevost chassis with IFS probably glides a lot nicer. If you have the time, tools, and space to work on a project like that you could probably pick up a Prevost tour bus, build the interior you want, and if you decide it's not really what you want for crossing the country, sell it for a nice profit.

Aside from wind noise, mine does glide along pretty nice on smooth highways like most of I-95 and I-10 in FL. The tiring parts are when the traffic is bad and when the road is bad.