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HELP! STRANDED in Houston. Lost Drive Shaft; Coolant hose and damage to air valve(s?). Need resources and advice.


ido70

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40 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

  👏 I used to have a battery grease gun that was great but it got old too.   😄

I use air grease gun for those tight places. Just not for the steering box. Could be an inexpensive present 😶‍🌫️

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1 minute ago, Ivan K said:

I use air grease gun for those tight places. Just not for the steering box. Could be an inexpensive present 😶‍🌫️

Same!

Thought I had bought a POS that barely worked, till I learned you have to crank the regulator up to about 80psi!

All good now!

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On 11/26/2023 at 8:20 PM, jacwjames said:

On 2002 Windsor the rear air tank is right above the drive shaft.  There are several different fittings on the tank

Attached is the air system for Monaco rigs, it matched up pretty closely with my rig.  You can tell the front tank because it has a WET & DRY side so the other will be the rear. 

I would be surprised if you were completely missing a fitting/part on the tank as you'd loose all the air but you might have a line off one of the PPV valves and it wouldn't loose air. 

 

Good Luck

AIR SYSTEM Dynasty and Windsor.pdf 1007.51 kB · 23 downloads

I learned something new today.  Well, I guess I’ll need to crawl back under there and re-do it.

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54 minutes ago, dandick66 said:

I learned something new today.  Well, I guess I’ll need to crawl back under there and re-do it.

Dan, if it's regarding the location of the rear air tank, Monaco moved the rear air tank up front, just behind the front air tank, on some models. 

Mine included!

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3 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Dan, if it's regarding the location of the rear air tank, Monaco moved the rear air tank up front, just behind the front air tank, on some models. 

Mine included!

Ben,

I quoted the wrong post.  I meant to quote Tom’s post about greasing the tail shaft and covering the hole.  I’ve never done that.  BTW, I wish my rear tank was in a different location.  It is a real PITA to get to.  

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  • 1 month later...
On 11/30/2023 at 7:04 PM, Tom Cherry said:

Our "Mr. Guru of EVERTHING" told me.  I was on the road and really poured the grease to the "Slip Yoke" fitting.  It DOES take a lot.  BUT, after you get tired or change to a new cartridge, and the grease comes out of the pin hole or vent....follow the instructions here.  NOW, was that critical?  Probably NOT.  But, it is ONE of those things that we learn....and most, me included, always thought "pumping grease" was so easy.  Like changing oil....especially when you have your car on a rack....

I chuckle as I was friends with a very good and learned stockbroker and we socialized and such. His dad was the first broker in the small town. He became a noted leader in the community.  One night, after a few drinks, I asked him....How did you get into being a stock broker? He graduated from a local university that is the ARCH rival of mine and is well known for having graduate courses in "Contemplating and Analyzing Navel 'button' Lint" or a PhD program in Basket Weaving....in order to fulfill one's self.

His dad and a buddy's dad leased an Esso Service Station and he and his buddy ran it.  This was back when you went there for oil changes and MUST DO AT EVERY OIL CHANGE....LUBE JOB.  They were NOT well versed in mechanics or automotive skills....they DID expect a Monkey Wrench to have grips that would fit the hand of a Primate.

They changed the oil on a customer's Caddy.  He didn't get too far....somehow, they got preoccupied...and one screwed in the oil plug and the other was supposed to tighten it....and guess what...? The second one forgot.  The engine BLEW...big time.  Their dads bailed them out and closed the Esso service station.  Then he used his "Marketing and Financial" acumen and got into "investing".  The man was NOT exactly "Mr. Good Wrench".

So, I often thing....this is SO SIMPLE....but then the little trick or procedure for the slip joint totally eluded me.  BUT, I never wrote a thesis on the lint in my navel....|

LOL....TRUE STORY....

Hope this helps....

Bulletin DA032003 Greasing Of Universal Joints & Slip Yokes.pdf 49 kB · 79 downloads

Well I decided today to lube the slip joint as recommended.  After about 10 pumps the lube started coming out the weep hole.  Holding my finger over the hole, and with one hand to pump and steady the grease gun, and after about 2-3 pumps the pressure built up and lube would squirt out around my finger under pressure.  Tried this about 5 times hoping I would see some lube come out by the seal, but nothing.  Any thoughts on what to do?

 

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Well just to close out this topic, I got a complete driveshaft from transmission to differential. I also got minor repairs to cooling hose and replacement of levelling air valve. Thanks to RV Masters of Houston Tx., one company that wasn’t scared of working on an older RV.

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Bill,

Facing the same problem I made this tool to plug the drive shaft slip joint weep hole. My slip joint was so plugged up with dried grease that I couldn’t build enough pressure to get the joint to purge out of the seal. Now I slip this tool between the yoke and u-joint and unscrew the cone nut until it seals the hole tightly. I can slip an open end wrench in the narrow space and turn the hex head to get it very tight . Works pretty good. In an earlier version I just used a pice of 1/4” rod ground to a point and bent over at the end. I would wedge a screwdriver behind it to force the point into the weep hole. It was difficult to use so I came up with this design. 
Good luck!

Roy

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4 hours ago, RNMCBR said:

Bill,

Facing the same problem I made this tool to plug the drive shaft slip joint weep hole. My slip joint was so plugged up with dried grease that I couldn’t build enough pressure to get the joint to purge out of the seal. Now I slip this tool between the yoke and u-joint and unscrew the cone nut until it seals the hole tightly. I can slip an open end wrench in the narrow space and turn the hex head to get it very tight . Works pretty good. In an earlier version I just used a pice of 1/4” rod ground to a point and bent over at the end. I would wedge a screwdriver behind it to force the point into the weep hole. It was difficult to use so I came up with this design. 
Good luck!

Roy

IMG_0439.jpeg

IMG_0438.jpeg

That's a great solution Ray.

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Todd,

No, sorry I did not think of taking a picture of me using it. I’ll try to explain better below. 

The drive shaft slip joint has a grease weep hole in the end, inside the yoke that holds the u-joint that is attached to the transmission output shaft. If the slip joint spline is caked up with old grease, fresh grease will squirt out this hole before enough pressure can build to force it into the spline and past the slip joint seal. I was never able to stop the grease from squirting out with just my finger.  The space between the end of the slip joint shaft and the u-joint is narrow, about wide enough to get your finger in there. This tool will slip into this space with the cone nut sticking into the weep hole and the flat bar bearing against the u-joint, at the center of the u-joint cross. Then by unscrewing the cone nut, I am able to force the cone point into the weep hole tight enough to seal it from grease squirting out. This allows pressure to build enough to force grease into the splined part of the shaft. I hope this paints you a picture of how the tool works.

Toy

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2 hours ago, RNMCBR said:

Todd,

No, sorry I did not think of taking a picture of me using it. I’ll try to explain better below. 

The drive shaft slip joint has a grease weep hole in the end, inside the yoke that holds the u-joint that is attached to the transmission output shaft. If the slip joint spline is caked up with old grease, fresh grease will squirt out this hole before enough pressure can build to force it into the spline and past the slip joint seal. I was never able to stop the grease from squirting out with just my finger.  The space between the end of the slip joint shaft and the u-joint is narrow, about wide enough to get your finger in there. This tool will slip into this space with the cone nut sticking into the weep hole and the flat bar bearing against the u-joint, at the center of the u-joint cross. Then by unscrewing the cone nut, I am able to force the cone point into the weep hole tight enough to seal it from grease squirting out. This allows pressure to build enough to force grease into the splined part of the shaft. I hope this paints you a picture of how the tool works.

Toy

Roy - great solution.  So when you were able to seal the weep hole with this tool, were you able to purge out the old grease out the seal on the other end?

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