Venturer Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 25 years ago, I had the Howard Power Center Steering system installed on a 96 Discovery. It was $3,000 at the time and was an amazing system. It was almost like auto pilot in a plane. Years later, I had the Blue Ox Tru-Center stabilizer on a 03 Phaeton. It worked very well too, but not a precise and the Howard system. Now, neither one is available. I would like to add a similar steering aid to our Monaco. I would prefer an adjustable unit, however, am not aware of one. Does anyone have the Roadmaster Exact Center Steering Stabilizer? How well does it work? I've read mixed reviews on the Safe-T-Plus and not too impressed with it. Any other steering aids available?? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vito.a Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 Steering stabilizers function poorly on large Monaco diesel coaches. Many time they make the steering worse. However, the Monaco Watts linkage system gets rave reviews. It can be installed on the front, rear or both. https://monacowatts.com/ 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 Henderson Line-up Brake & RV in Oregon sells the Safe-T-Plus where you can add on the Super Steer Trimming Unit which basically turns the combined package into what used to be the Howard Steering or Blue-Ox Steering adjustable units. https://supersteerparts.com/product-result/?ymmq=yr_2006~mk_roadmaster-monaco-~md_s-series-8-airbags Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturer Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 It might not be as important as I think. My previous Bus had IFS with no steering aid and drove great with 2 finger control. Side winds were not an issue until they got over 18- 20 mph. I suspect the tag axle helped with the stability. Every motorhome before it was non-tag and had the I-beam front axle, so the steering aids made quite a difference. My Executive has the tag with the I-beam, so a mixture of my previous ones. The tag is carrying 2000# more and the steer is 1,000# less than the bus. The Safety Plus with the Super Steer seems like a good combo, but gets a bit pricy with installation. The Monacowatts looks like it would stabilize the ride, but how much would it help in a cross wind or changing road crowns? In March, I will be towing a 20' trailer weighing about 8,000#. That will probably tell me if something needs to be added. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 I disconnected the Safe-T-+ that came on our 08 until I could make it adjustable on the fly… post on this here: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/making-a-safe-t-plus-adjustable-451209.html On really windy days it didn’t have enough adjustment so I moved the mounting bolt closer to the activator last year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 You always learn. I read a lot here in the fall of 2009. I researched and talked to Brett Howard, who was the General Manager of the original Monaco owned Wildwood repair center that was sold to Alliance, I believe. There were several members here, with a lot of chassis experience and the gist was Blue Ox was the closest to the original Howard. Brett specifically said he had driven several with many different brands…Blue Ox was the closest as you could trim it out. I also talked to Barry at Josams. He liked the BO, but his guys were NOT electricians. Therefore he only installed the fixed ones. BUT, he would install my BO if I did the wiring, so all they had to do was plug in and then do the final tweaking. So, I have one. It made a definite and decided improvement. My comment was “reduces driver fatigue” and takes out the “touchiness” of the over powered Monaco PS system. I then, years later, put on Source Shocks and a front and rear Source (Roadmaster made them) sway bars. Great improvements…. Finally, I got shamed into adding one of the Hughes Watts kits. NIGHT AND DAY. The Watts kit cleaned up the “slop”, the net effect, it “supercharged” the Blue Ox. David Pratt also had the BO on his former 2005 Executive and raved about it. Then when he added the Watts, the effectiveness probably quadrupled. Richard provided details. I would replace mine with the Henderson kit….but NEVER, EVER….install a non adjustable one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chargerman Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 When I purchased my Exec the previous owner had installed a Blue Ox unit. It appears to be a “Tru Center” It has a momentary push button that is supposed to turn it on. Evidently it is supposed to help when there are crosswinds and kinda help hold steering position when you have to hold the wheel off center. I never dug into this unit and haven’t been able to find any info on it. Does anyone know how it functions or have any literature? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 34 minutes ago, Chargerman said: When I purchased my Exec the previous owner had installed a Blue Ox unit. It appears to be a “Tru Center” It has a momentary push button that is supposed to turn it on. Evidently it is supposed to help when there are crosswinds and kinda help hold steering position when you have to hold the wheel off center. I never dug into this unit and haven’t been able to find any info on it. Does anyone know how it functions or have any literature? Thanks GOOGLE & the INTERNET are your friends. https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/pdf/TC35270-Manual.pdf THIS IS ALL that camevwith it. I cooied this for the tech that did the physical install. I did the wiring. i talked to their Chassis Czar. He recommended frequent Torque checks or re-torque. It was installed by a tech who was trained by the Czar at LD. LOTS OF LOCTITE RED. Never loosened…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturer Posted January 31 Author Share Posted January 31 If it's working correctly, as you're driving straight, push the button momentarily. That tells the ram to center itself. If you have a crosswind, steer slightly into the wind and push the button. If it's working correctly, it will hold the steering wheel in that position when you let go of it. When conditions change, just reset it with a push of the button. It's easy to overcome any setting with a normal turn of the steering wheel. It's a great system. Wish I could find a leftover one in the box. 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chargerman Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Thank you Tom and Doug Looks like I’ll need to dig into this in Spring. I do not feel and difference when actuating the button. In the meantime I’ll read the documents Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Chances are the solenoid inside the small enclosed box has frozen up. Remove the cover and free up the solenoid. Also, lubricate any moving parts. Condensation builds up inside that box causing any moving parts to rust up and quit working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chargerman Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Thank you. Unfortunately, I won’t be back up to the coach for a few months but I’ll be sure to report back on my findings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J A Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 On 1/30/2024 at 12:33 PM, Dr4Film said: Henderson Line-up Brake & RV in Oregon sells the Safe-T-Plus where you can add on the Super Steer Trimming Unit which basically turns the combined package into what used to be the Howard Steering or Blue-Ox Steering adjustable units. https://supersteerparts.com/product-result/?ymmq=yr_2006~mk_roadmaster-monaco-~md_s-series-8-airbags Link is inoperable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 (edited) I just clicked on it and it works for me! Edited January 31 by Dr4Film Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Pratt Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 Doug and for those interested I have attached a PDF TC35270-Manual.pdfcopy of the BLUE OX True Center Manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J A Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 On 1/31/2024 at 5:07 PM, Dr4Film said: I just clicked on it and it works for me! T y Richard. It opened for me 2day as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomV48 Posted February 5 Share Posted February 5 (edited) On 1/30/2024 at 10:03 AM, vito.a said: Steering stabilizers function poorly on large Monaco diesel coaches. Many time they make the steering worse. However, the Monaco Watts linkage system gets rave reviews. It can be installed on the front, rear or both. https://monacowatts.com/ Well the first thing we installed was a safe T plus steering stabilizer. That gave me some improvement in steering and peace of mind to a degree regarding blowout control and stability. And it was an improvement but not a giant one. Then we put the watts link on the front and that was a monumental improvement in body roll and sway generally. Also added the Monaco Watts crossbars on the rear trailing arms and that gave us almost complete elimination of tail wag. I was unhappy with the lack of adjustment on the shepherd m100 steering box but first went to work on the alignment issues. The few shops in Southern California who claim to be able to align that one of the small fortune to attempt it. $600 to $800 for the quotes. Peach truck and tire service out of Corona did a fair improvement with alignment and didn't cost me an arm and a leg but it was still not entirely desirable. While traveling in Oregon this summer I booked an appointment with Kaiser alignment in Eugene oregon.. They are very close to the mothership where this thing was built in Coburg and they have been aligning eight airbags suspension for decades. They did not complain about what Pete's had done but fine-tuned it with a couple more adjustments and made it markedly better. They also checked the play in my shepherd steering box and the manager reported to me that it was possibly the least slop he'd ever seen in a Shepherd box. He indicated that they could obtain the parts and change it out to a trw for me but of course it's a long way from home so I tried the new alignment on the way home and frankly I was happy. Driving the bus is still a full-time job but much more relaxing with the proper alignment and a stabilizing modifications that I've done so far. With hindsight I don't think there's anything I've done to that suspension that I regret or that I would do differently if doing it over. Edited February 5 by TomV48 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Venturer Posted February 5 Author Solution Share Posted February 5 I think the MH Gods are smiling on me. I was contacted by PM from a member who has a Tru-Center unit with about 6 months use before he removed it when trading coaches. He does not need it and very graciously offered it to me. Just have to get it from east TX to Lake Havasu. All days are good, but some are a little better. 😀 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturer Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 I finally found the time to install the Blue Ox Tru-Center steering stabilizer and it is every bit as great as I remember it being on my 03 Phaeton. Instead of a push button on the dash, I used a trolling motor momentary foot switch. When I need an adjustment, just tap it and the steering responds. It might not be as sophisticated as the Newmar of Newell system, but end result is the same. I'll never understand why Blue Ox discontinued production of such a useful product. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chargerman Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 So I’m back up north and found some time to look at my Trucenter. It looks like the relay is toast. It’s a Amperite 12DA/AHDFA. Looks like it’s not made anymore. I’m going to call them tomorrow to see if indeed it’s available or if they have one that replaces this one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 A picture of it would help. If it’s a round coil on the stem of the valve, any 12V coil of the same ID will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chargerman Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 Here it is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 (edited) Not what I expected and it shows RS has it in stock for $172 BUT it’s only an idiot proofing device…if you hold the centering button down too long (10+ seconds) it won’t supply 12V that long… automatically stops supplying power. I’d just bypass it and hook the 12V from the button straight to the +wire going to the true center… use a 15A fuse as the connector. For $172, I can remember to only hold the button down briefly. https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/pdf/TC35270-Manual.pdf Edited May 13 by Ivylog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturer Posted May 13 Author Share Posted May 13 (edited) What Ivylog said. As long as the solenoid responds when 12 volts are applied, you have a working Tru-Center. All you did is transfer the engagement timer to your brain. Edited May 13 by Venturer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 19 minutes ago, Ivylog said: Not what I expected and it shows RS has it in stock for $172 BUT it’s only an idiot proofing device…if you hold the centering button down too long (10+ seconds) it won’t supply 12V that long… automatically stops supplying power. I’d just bypass it and hook the 12V from the button straight to the +wire going to the true center… use a 15A fuse as the connector. For $172, I can remember to only hold the button down briefly. https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/pdf/TC35270-Manual.pdf OK...LOOKS like I need to test mine. AND YES...you REWIRE the OLD UNIT...It will work...your brain is the RELAY...but if you want to make it work exactly like it was designed...here is the fix or the way to keep the SAME logic and AMPERAGE... Here is a LINK to how this contactor works. https://www.grainger.com/product/5WML9?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw9IayBhBJEiwAVuc3fqog5OnlF59to35402abi2A2SQmaUEXnrJ4wqEogLFASB1KwNKxapRoCEqwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds I DID see a link to how it is wired up. http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Dayton-Off-Delay-Timer.html THIS IS NOT A PLUG AND PLAY Timer... BUT IT WILL WORK. SO READ ON... https://www.rvupgradestore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/pdf/TC35270-Manual.pdf I just went through a similar exercise....the contacts on the Dayton are ONLY rated at 1 Amp. The Original $172.95 Amperite was rated at 10 A https://us.rs-online.com/product/amperite-co-olympic-controls-corp/12da-ahdfa/70200212/ NOW if you use the Dayton...BINGO...it is gonna burn up the contacts. The LOAD is only ONE (1) Amp...NOW don't despair....this is the fix... Look at Page 4 of the instructions. They RATED fuse is 15 Amps... so 10 sounds about right for the solenoid and the Amperite was rated at 10... NOW>>> Here is how to fix that for say $10. Purchase a Bosch 87/87A Relay (by the BOSCH BRAND). Find (while on Amazon) a base that has #14 wires...technically and since it is a SHORT Run...#16 will work.. The NEW circuit, See my ROUGH PRINT....is like this. The RED Wires to you existing switch are NOT POWERED...This is the simplest....and I played around with it... They are JUST Plain wires...so they go as follows. They are CONNECTED to Terminals 6 & 7 of the Dayton. Incoming Power from the 15 Amp fuse (which was going to the switch) is now connected to Terminal 2 of the Dayton...ALSO run a wire from there to Terminal 30 of the BOSCH relay. Terminal 3 on the Dayton and the BLACK WIRE on the TruCenter and Terminal 86 on the Bosch are ALL CONNECTED to GROUND. REPEAT...Dayton 3; Bosch 86; and Black Solenoid go to GROUND. OK...Terminal 1 from Dayton goes to Terminal 85 on the BOSCH. NOTE 85 and 86 are NOT polarized for the coil works either way. MOST of the time Monaco used 85 as positive. BUT, they also had this annoying habit of switching GROUNDS or Negatives...and that will also operate the relay Here is my crude circuit. If you install it....let us know... Blue Ox Trucenter Relay Fix.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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