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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
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Discussions
saflyer
On 4/12/2024 at 8:21 PM, Kenster said:Will someone please Point me towards the files section. I am looking for wiring diagrams.
I feel your pain. Went through the same process. Many times told to get the file but the website says ”downloads” not files. Eventually I figured it out.
Lionel
On the last 30 mile leg home from Texas to Edmonton. Notice ammeter showed 10 volts. Engine responding ok but felt a little underpowered. House batteries showed 17 volts. Kept going when home opened the chassis battery compartment and wow vapor and hot batteries. Washed and refilled batteries and the n starting looking for a solution. Isolator showed little bit of melting on the resin...figure thats he culprit will replace today and update. Dont think I saved the batteries but they are taking a charge when plugged in to shore power. Ah the fun or RV'ing.
Georgia Mike
From what I remember the cooling fans get their power from the computer board that you can access from the outside. From there it goes up to the thermal switch that you can’t get to unless you pull the unit. I would check to make sure you have 12volts leaving the board and troubleshoot from there. As Tom said you could add fans at the top of the vent stack pulling air up wired to a on off switch to keep air flowing. From what I remember the fans ran most of the time unless you were in very cold weather.
Yikes the last 30 miles home - Battery “meltdown”. Comments?
Benjamin
Unless you're in a rush, I wouldn't jump to any conclusions on the isolator. Test the batteries first, if the chassis was 10V and the house was 17, which ones were hot? if it was the chassis batteries then some cells shorted internally, if the house batteries were hot, that's to be expected at that voltage and I doubt 30 minutes at 17V hurt them. Get the chassis charged 24 hours, then sit 24 hours and then see what's functioning and not. If the chassis batteries are shorted, then they might heat up unevenly while charging. I don't know what you have in that compartment, but I'd hose the whole thing out, water can't be as bad sulfuric acid.
Tom Cherry
Bummer. Here’s the realities of your situation.
Your Chassis Batteries are toast. MOST Chassis are sealed. If so, unless you want to do exploratory surgery, the electrolyte was boiled off. I THINK you meant the “voltmeter” was showing 10 VDC. They will eventually flake off all the lead oxide coating on the plates.due to being overheated and there is probably some areas above the electrolyte level on the plates that are dry.
Your House needs to be serviced as in replenish the elecrolyte with Distilled Water and hope for the best.
I’m VERY SUSPICIOUS that Your Alternator’s voltage regulator is probably the culprit….unless you had a horrible case of the alternator belt failing. The traditional approach. Find a good TRUCK/BUS electrical shop and have the 200 A Leece Neville REBUILT. Insist that the shop only purchase the parts from Leece Neville and NOT install sftrmarket items. Do NOT SCRIMP. Replace all diodes…..testing and salvaging is false economy. Much cheaper than a new one. UNLESS the shop is really sharp, an aftermarket replacement is iffy. Search here for DUVAC. Use the box at the upper right. Click on Everywhere and choose TOPICS. Sit down….it’s gonna be pages and pages….but this is the best information in North America on the Monaco electrical system and LN Alternators.
Don’t waste money on any isolator replacement. Order the plain Jane Blue Seas ML-ACR and install it. Forget the “up front” remote. If you ever need to use the BOOST… get out…walk to the ML-ACR. Put it in MANUAL as in ON. Use the boost. Then walk back and set to AUTO. Now you will also have FULL TIME BIRD BiDirectional charging….a luxury you do not have now.
THATS MY TAKE….based on the limited information you posted…..more detail? Maybe be different….but s high probability that the altenator/voltage regulator failed….
Others will chime in with specific questions and assist….but here is where I’d start. I WOULD put in the ML-ACR….get rid of the early 2000 technology that never worked and convert to a solid BIRD system.
Good Luck….
Standard
Tom Cherry
13 minutes ago, Georgia Mike said:From what I remember the cooling fans get their power from the computer board that you can access from the outside. From there it goes up to the thermal switch that you can’t get to unless you pull the unit. I would check to make sure you have 12volts leaving the board and troubleshoot from there. As Tom said you could add fans at the top of the vent stack pulling air up wired to a on off switch to keep air flowing. From what I remember the fans ran most of the time unless you were in very cold weather.
YES and NO. The control board does not, as long as the refrigerator is ON and RUNNING, do any “controlling”. There is a constant 12 VDC from the board that goes up to the Snap Disk Thermostat and that actually controls the fans. So….operating in low temps….all ok. No fans needed…..opposite for high.
There MAY be a thermistor in the circuit and goes to the control board and it will shut down if something is amiss to keep from damaging the cooling unit.
But the Upper Thermostat controls the fans to keep the “flue” or the air flow within a specific operating range…and that thermostat controls that. I never remember NOT having voltage to the fan thermostat. Pull the Norcold Manual….it tells all about it and how to test…
Again….from memory and lots of “experiments”. BUT only the circuit and the manual will confirm. Very specific procedures for trouble shooting.
The approach I laid out ASSUMES full time voltage….which I THINK is correct….
Lionel
22 minutes ago, Benjamin said:Unless you're in a rush, I wouldn't jump to any conclusions on the isolator. Test the batteries first, if the chassis was 10V and the house was 17, which ones were hot? if it was the chassis batteries then some cells shorted internally, if the house batteries were hot, that's to be expected at that voltage and I doubt 30 minutes at 17V hurt them. Get the chassis charged 24 hours, then sit 24 hours and then see what's functioning and not. If the chassis batteries are shorted, then they might heat up unevenly while charging. I don't know what you have in that compartment, but I'd hose the whole thing out, water can't be as bad sulfuric acid.
Thx Ben looking into it all today.
19 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:Bummer. Here’s the realities of your situation.
Your Chassis Batteries are toast. MOST Chassis are sealed. If so, unless you want to do exploratory surgery, the electrolyte was boiled off. I THINK you meant the “voltmeter” was showing 10 VDC. They will eventually flake off all the lead oxide coating on the plates.due to being overheated and there is probably some areas above the electrolyte level on the plates that are dry.
Your House needs to be serviced as in replenish the elecrolyte with Distilled Water and hope for the best.
I’m VERY SUSPICIOUS that Your Alternator’s voltage regulator is probably the culprit….unless you had a horrible case of the alternator belt failing. The traditional approach. Find a good TRUCK/BUS electrical shop and have the 200 A Leece Neville REBUILT. Insist that the shop only purchase the parts from Leece Neville and NOT install sftrmarket items. Do NOT SCRIMP. Replace all diodes…..testing and salvaging is false economy. Much cheaper than a new one. UNLESS the shop is really sharp, an aftermarket replacement is iffy. Search here for DUVAC. Use the box at the upper right. Click on Everywhere and choose TOPICS. Sit down….it’s gonna be pages and pages….but this is the best information in North America on the Monaco electrical system and LN Alternators.
Don’t waste money on any isolator replacement. Order the plain Jane Blue Seas ML-ACR and install it. Forget the “up front” remote. If you ever need to use the BOOST… get out…walk to the ML-ACR. Put it in MANUAL as in ON. Use the boost. Then walk back and set to AUTO. Now you will also have FULL TIME BIRD BiDirectional charging….a luxury you do not have now.
THATS MY TAKE….based on the limited information you posted…..more detail? Maybe be different….but s high probability that the altenator/voltage regulator failed….
Others will chime in with specific questions and assist….but here is where I’d start. I WOULD put in the ML-ACR….get rid of the early 2000 technology that never worked and convert to a solid BIRD system.
Good Luck….
Thx Tom looking into that system today will follow up.
Cheers
Lionel
Georgia Mike
8 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:There is a constant 12 VDC from the board that goes up to the Snap Disk Thermostat and that actually controls the fans.
That’s what I said “ the fans get there power from the computer board and from there goes up to the thermal switch” or snap disk as you said.
Tom Miller
Open ground reading on Sure Gard RV power monitor. No 110volt power in coach. Any ideas?
Figure it would be on a weekend.
jacwjames
Do you have power with generator running??
jacwjames
X2 on the Bluesea ML-ARC install, I did mine ~3 years ago. The relay itself was a pretty simple install, the switch required me to run wire from back to front.
I also use a Silverleaf VMSpc monitoring system and can see my alternator voltage.
If I had an alternator failure I can start the generator and the Bluesea will tie house and chassis systems together. Can also use it as a battery boost for starting.
We don’t have any buttons on the steering wheel in our 2002 Diplomat... 🙁
Scott Le Magicien
And I really don't like taking my eyes (and more importantly my peripheral vision) off the road to find the correct switch on the side panel...
So I added my own remote!
The Lights button turns on ALL THE LIGHTS!
And the Horns button activates the airhorns on the roof. They're loud, but nice have sometimes!
The remote is a Visonic. They're not made any more, sadly, but sometimes you can find them on eBay...
2009 Monaco Beaver Patriot Thunder Princeton IV
jacwjames
Are the brackets on the rear for motorcycle lift/carrier?
Beautiful coach Good Luck
lake49068
The Arens actuator is located/bolted to the "curb side" of the Allison 2000 series in my 2010 Neptune. Depending on application. it may have a vertical or horizontal orientation and it looks like a windshield wiper motor assembly. If you don't have an Arens shift pad you probably won't have an Arens actuator. The part number is SBW-ACT 1000 for the horizontal and SBW-ACT 2000 for the vertical orientation. Arens also sent me 3 PDF files the content of which is overwhelming unless you're a real gear head. If anyone wants a link to the PDF's, let me know at aghyobo at aol com and I will email to you.
Adam
Bar SR Ranch
Clarification: I had the u-shaped bracket/rod laying the wrong way in the picture above and the shoulder bolt I mentioned was incorrect there is no shoulder bolts that holds the u-shaped bracket/rod in place it was lying beside the u-shaped bracket/rod, so I was assuming it went with u-shaped bracket/rod it is just regular bolts with nylocks, they were also lying with the u-shaped bracket/rod.
I shouldn't have to remove the step cover to reinstall the rod hopefully but if I do, I will document the process.
The repair that a previous owner did was where the rod went through the flat bar. Yes, I will be redoing this repair/weld not even close to my standards.
I should have looked at the original post pictures closer and I would have seen all of this was missing on mine, I guess this is how we learn.
Following other people's repairs or half repairs is always fun, seems I have been doing it my whole life and this coach is defiantly no exception.
Benjamin
I agree, I would not replace the diode isolator with another one. Upgrade to a modern replacement as noted, if it tests bad. I don't think we can say that yet, the voltage could have been normal expected operation as the result of whatever the failure was, either a battery or wiring issue. Obviously could have been the isolator also.
The Duvac system basically means the alternator is reading ("remote sense") the chassis battery voltage after the isolator, and NOT it's own output directly. That gives a very rough division of the control between chassis and house batteries that could lead to this from a simple failure.
Tom Cherry
2 hours ago, Tom Miller said:Open ground reading on Sure Gard RV power monitor. No 110volt power in coach. Any ideas?
Figure it would be on a weekend.
I would suspect the pedestal. Was this OPEN NEUTRAL or OPEN GROUND. Open NEUTRAL is UGLY…. If you ran it, you would have mega $$ damage as the 120 VAC turns in to 160 - 180VAC and destroys TV, AC, Microwave, Refrigerator….you name it….it ain’t happy.
Is the Surge Guard a pedestal item or built in or hardwired.
We need that and pictures of the Surge Guard…..depending on WHERE the Surge Guard is….in the system….if it is plug in….move to another site. If it does it there, then I have a good idea.
BTW….the Surge Guard is supposed to be ONLY on the incomimg AC line. It is not needed, nor should be between the ATS and the main panel. The ATS is downstream of the Surge Guard. It is reading the INCOMING power. The Genny is NOT SUPPOSED to be in the circuit….so it will work.
Thanks….
Tom Cherry
2 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:That’s what I said “ the fans get there power from the computer board and from there goes up to the thermal switch” or snap disk as you said.
Probably Semantics. The fans are a “switched on” FUSED (I thnink) OUPUT of the control board. They are always ON or HOT when the refrigerator is running. The control board does not cycle them on or off or provide any “control” for the fans. The fin thermostat provides that.
96 EVO
Your best move if you plan on keeping the fridge till 'End of life', is to install an ARP Fridge Defend, along with one or two of their fans!
grizzly
So cleaned everything and tried switching control panel but still have problem. Will go up on roof next and see after rain stops Hope to solve issue up there
dennis.mcdonaugh
I lubed the chassis with the DeWalt cordless grease gun this morning and what a different experience that is. I wish I'd bought one years ago when I went with a pneumatic gun instead instead. I was a little worried a couple of times when it took longer than I thought it should to get a couple fittings lubed, but eventually they I got them all done. Thanks for the suggestion!
Lionel
Well it was the isolator check pics
BAD ONE show melting below..... good one after...all voltages back to 13.8 THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP....LIONEL
dennis.mcdonaugh
It looks like I didn't screw anything up and the leak is gone. I'm going to keep the old one and rebuild it in case the new one leaks down the road. Its unlikely I'll be the owner when that happens since it took 24 years for the original to fail, but you never know. Do you remove the shaft and o-rings by taking off the knob with the philips screw in it?
jacwjames
When I installed the Bluesea I was able to abandon my BIRD, Isolation Relay, and my Lambert.
Basically killed 3 birds with one stone😁
Ivan K
Good deal. You don't even have to use the valve if you can change the filter quickly. Since you mention a screw, you have a 2 piece shaft and yes, remove the screw and the now separated pieces.
jacwjames
My communication cable is daisy chained from the thermostat, first routed to the rear AC then to the front. I have 2 connectors on the rear AC, one on the front.
Did you clean all the connectors?
jacwjames
Bill
What was your final solution for a repair.
Looks like I'm facing the same issue in my wet bay. Mine looks like it is a laminated plastic/wood/plastic type flooring but it is pretty much gone. Haven't tore it apart yet, going to evaluate this week. My wife has a trip planned next month so if I dive into it have to get it done in the next month.
Ivan K
I can't tell if grizzlys Signature would follow the same logic but the front unit was the only one controlled by the front thermostat so there was nothing else in play on ours. Center and rear units were on a bedroom thermostat with no connection to the front. It is easy to swap the thermostats front to rear to help isolate the issue.
Besides the point but now I have all 3 units on the same microair with remote controll ability.
wamcneil
And when you remove the shaft, make sure make it doesn’t leave an old o-ring way down in there where it’s hard to see… I learned that two o-rings are not better than one and would up rebuilding mine twice.
Also, a new screw is very tight in a new shaft and doesn’t cut new threads easily. Mine broke and I wound up re-using the original screw.
Tom Cherry
1 hour ago, jacwjames said:My communication cable is daisy chained from the thermostat, first routed to the rear AC then to the front. I have 2 connectors on the rear AC, one on the front.
Did you clean all the connectors?
His is different. FRONT Thermostat only controls front unit. One DATA COMMUNICATION CABLE (NOT PHONE) from Thermostat to plenum. Them attached to one of the dangling connctors.
He HAS power (12 VDC) to top control unit, otherwise Thermostat would not be functional..
HIS rear controls bedroom and then middle. Might have a zone 4….
I’D SWAP THERMOSTATS FIRST. EASY. Just RESET each. You HAVE 12 VDC on a pair (2 wires) of the Two Pair (4 wire) phone cable. That is what makes Thermostat light up. Power comes from front control unit. The OTHER pair is a “Multiplexed” signal. It is NOT an on or off. Pull front. Clean the data cable and the thermostat female end….plug and unplug a few times….reset….NO JOY
YOU CAN take the front Thermostat to the rear. Plug it in there. The. RESET. If it runs the rear systems, then NOT the Thermostat. There is NOTHING to set or change….plug and play. That is easiest…..eliminate components.
NEXT UP
2008 Diplomat 40SKQ Wiring Diagram
Rthomp1122
Thanks Tom, that's a lot of info! I unplugged the Icemaker, and it works! The previous owner removed the Ice basket from the icemaker because they didn't use it and lost it. So, until I find one, we won't be using it either. (anyone have a line on an Ice basket/auger for a Dometic NDA140?). Checking the specks on the regenerator it should be only drawing .5 amps. I'll be doing some more testing after this d*** rain stops.
Thanks again!
Dr4Film
Based on you having a 2009 Sig, I would say that your RV Park Pedestal has lost its ground connection to your combination Surge Guard/Transfer Switch and it has faulted not allowing 120 VAC power into your coach.
Have the park correct the pedestal ground problem and you should be OK.
Or possibly your power cord ground pin connection is causing the loss of a good ground.
Constwkr
I have 4 lighting switch panels that are not operating. When I look at the control boards (in the rear closet) There are four that do not have the green power light on. Therefore I assume that is the problem however I have no idea where to go from here. Do the control boxes have a main fuse? Any help with where to go from here is greatly appreciated.
Tom Cherry
No need to test or fool with the refrigerator. If there is a leak in the heater in the mold….it will work fine on a dedicated NON GFCI cicuit. Read somewhere that 50% of home refrigerators have a NON LETHAL LEAK….and would trip a GFCI, BUT,,by code….their on Dedicated NON GFCI breakers.
NEED to. get NEW GFCI. THEN wire nut and identify the two branch (HOPEFULLY) circuits. Then put refrigerator icemaker circuit, which runs off GFCI, on the LINE side. That might fix your issues. My 2009 DOM 1402 tripped the OEM GFCI. REPLACED in 2013….and rewired or reconfigured it. Nary a bobble..and RES Samsung runs like a champ…
Tom Cherry
4 minutes ago, Constwkr said:I have 4 lighting switch panels that are not operating. When I look at the control boards (in the rear closet) There are four that do not have the green power light on. Therefore I assume that is the problem however I have no idea where to go from here. Do the control boxes have a main fuse? Any help with where to go from here is greatly appreciated.
Fix number one. ASSUME your Battery Cutoff Switch up front is functional and NOT Bypassed. Turn OFF the switch (push the bottom). All Interior lights will go off. Now wait about 5 minutes. Whilst waiting….go to each “not working” switch and push in any switch a few times…..naybe hold 5 seconds or so.
NOW….. TURN BACK ON battery. Push TOP of switch.
That usually work. You just rebooted the CPU that rins the MPX. Trust me on this. I have the NON CPU system. What happens….and I did it. I removed cables from house bank and did NOT kill the Battery Disconnect Switch. Just the erratic bumping or pulsing on the terminals messed up the Boot Cycle.
OK….the MPX…. Here is how it works. Flaky switches can be a “BAD” Boot or reset….or bad connection to wiring harness (when multiple) …like yours or BAD SWITCH.
PROBABLY ONE OFVTHE FIRST TWO.
@Frank McElroy & @pwhittle are out resiurced….they can repair boards for 20% of the vebdor
do the above.
Tom Cherry
1 minute ago, Paul J A said:You have the Kongsberg Chassis Multiplex system. Frank is the expert on that. Just a suggestion; low battery voltage?? Breaker on the inverter tripped?? "EACH" snow flake is different!!
YES….Frank is the expert. NO….not an issue with either the Intellitec MPX lighting or the K’Berg CCM.
This is an AC POWER issue. The MPX and CCM are DC control systems…..and NOT in the AC power incoming side. We need to KNOW where the Surge Guard is (external on pedestal) or hard wired interior WITH pictures….wrong rabbit hole….
Thanks….
31 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:Based on you having a 2009 Sig, I would say that your RV Park Pedestal has lost its ground connection to your combination Surge Guard/Transfer Switch and it has faulted not allowing 120 VAC power into your coach.
Have the park correct the pedestal ground problem and you should be OK.
Or possibly your power cord ground pin connection is causing the loss of a good ground.
Richard….correct. IF the “RV Surge Guard Power Monitor” is, INDEED….the Surge Guard Automatic Transfer Switch and the “display”, then totally agree…
odds are….in order…
Bad Pedestal….and Park problem….
Bad Power Plug….in that the ground wire in the molded connector has “popped” loose. Very common. Don’t USE AC until you replace plug….
Loose Ground Connection in a Junction Box …..rarely a “bad ground wire in power cable).
Loose Conneection inside ATS…..tighten it up….
BAD ATS….as in the monitoring is bad. The GROUND is NOT SWITcHED….Hard wired inside fhe ATS.
Past that….pure speculation. PICTURES….is the “Power Monitor” the ATS or does he have a external one or an “add on” that was hared wired in AC circuit??
Rgoodman
This may sound like a strange request. I have installed a new steering box/gear and I jacked the front wheels off the ground to set the poppet valve limits before I move it or use it at all. In order to do it I need to turn the wheels all the way to the left and then all the way to the right. My garage is tight and on left side my wheel is 13.5” from the wall. Does anyone know if that is enough room to turn the wheel all the way to the left side?
2008 Diplomat 40SKQ Wiring Diagram
MyronTruex
The hallway GFI feeds the built in vacuum cleaner in the basement. Unplug the vacuum.
As for the refer. There were just too many issues with mine over the years. Went through at least three ice makers, multiple failures of heating elements, and other issues along the way.
We have a nice residential in place and have loved it for about five years. It is so deep it is hard to reach the back. Ice starts dropping in less than ten minutes and fills a massive container.
I did not connect the refer to the inverter because we have the 2000W modified just as you have. The temps only begin to climb after about four hours and a few minutes stopping for lunch and running the generator or just running the gennie for a couple of hours along the way keeps things fine.
The AC circuits can drive you crazy. They hide junction boxes buried under cables inside the cabinet next to the fireplace.
And yes, a Fox and Hound is really helpful.
We have owned ours since new and I have done so many modifications just the index would fill three pages.
I supplied Frank with the files from my factory CD as well as a ton of other files. He is probably sorry he asked for them.
If you would like a copy, let me know. You need a good wi-fi speed because there are about 7GB of files.
Dr4Film
Won't know until you try.
Have two people, one inside turning the steering wheel and one outside watching the tire and the wall.
Rgoodman
5 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:Won't know until you try.
Have two people, one inside turning the steering wheel and one outside watching the tire and the wall.
I’m not worried about hitting the wall but I need to be able to get full turn to correctly set poppet valves
Ivan K
According to my documentation, my wheels can turn 40 degrees. King pin is the center of rotation and is about flush with inner wheel sidewall. The outside center will move slightly back and in, giving you an advantage. Should be able to guesstimate from this info and tire size.
Steven P
@Les Hurdlesome people place carpet pads upside down for the slide to rest on when coming in or out to prevent scratches. When we bought ours, it was scratched and I found a lot of cat litter under the carpet that was dragging leading to scratches.
klcdenver
Just pull or back out of building if you think you are going to hit. Then turn it all the way both directions. I did not jack my front end when I changed to the the TRW to set the poppet without any problem.
Les Hurdle
Many thanks. I don't see enough room for that.
How does one get underneath the inner part of the slide when it is extended?
L
Malewis11
Hi All
First I can report that after cleaning the connector contacts and replacing the Hirschmann plug my fan ran a lot slower at startup. Not sure of the speed but it wasn’t roaring like usual. We will have to see if it speeds up at high temps but had to cancel my short trip because of an issue with my brand new tow bar.
Im not an electrical engineer but my understanding of the PWM is that it doesn’t modulate the outgoing voltage but switches the power on and off known as the duty cycle. It lowers the average voltage thereby reducing motor speed. 12 volts at 50% duty cycle would mimic 6 volts. It stands to reason that if the supply voltage dropped to 8 volts the output would be mimic 4 volts if the PWM setting didn’t change although I not sure if it’s linear.
You can measure the output voltage but it has to be tested under load otherwise you will not see the voltage drop. This is based on motors so how valves like ours react may be different but based on other’s experience it obviously has some effect. Since I didn’t install the PWM I’m planing on setting up an experiment to vary voltage and load to see what happens. I’ll report any thing I learn.
Mark L
Steven P
If that's a flush floor slide, it tilts up as you bring it in. Once it's at an angle, you should be able to put the carpet piece under the lip.
tmw188
Measure the overall diameter of your wheel, divide in half for the radius. Find the centerline of your tire footprint then measure out using the radius number you got and measure out how far it will turn.
Tom Cherry
3 hours ago, MyronTruex said:The hallway GFI feeds the built in vacuum cleaner in the basement. Unplug the vacuum.
As for the refer. There were just too many issues with mine over the years. Went through at least three ice makers, multiple failures of heating elements, and other issues along the way.
We have a nice residential in place and have loved it for about five years. It is so deep it is hard to reach the back. Ice starts dropping in less than ten minutes and fills a massive container.
I did not connect the refer to the inverter because we have the 2000W modified just as you have. The temps only begin to climb after about four hours and a few minutes stopping for lunch and running the generator or just running the gennie for a couple of hours along the way keeps things fine.
The AC circuits can drive you crazy. They hide junction boxes buried under cables inside the cabinet next to the fireplace.
And yes, a Fox and Hound is really helpful.
We have owned ours since new and I have done so many modifications just the index would fill three pages.
I supplied Frank with the files from my factory CD as well as a ton of other files. He is probably sorry he asked for them.
If you would like a copy, let me know. You need a good wi-fi speed because there are about 7GB of files.
I FORGOT about the Basement Vacuum. BY CODE....that outlet is considered as an "OUTDOOR". My Camelot has TWO outlets in a bay. One on the Driver's side is the Vacuum. There is a similar outlet on the Curb (Passenger) side of that bay. THOSE outlets run off the GFCI. As they are OUTDOOR and one could be using a power tool out there.
5 hours ago, Rthomp1122 said:Thanks Tom, that's a lot of info! I unplugged the Icemaker, and it works! The previous owner removed the Ice basket from the icemaker because they didn't use it and lost it. So, until I find one, we won't be using it either. (anyone have a line on an Ice basket/auger for a Dometic NDA140?). Checking the specks on the regenerator it should be only drawing .5 amps. I'll be doing some more testing after this d*** rain stops.
Thanks again!
OK... I need to readdress this... I answered about 10 of these this afternoon and my brain was FRIED....so let's DO IT AGAIN...
If you FOUND TWO RUNS, on the GFCI....then you have the better system. The 2007's had a funky system. There were TWO GFCI's. NOT GOOD...but you have two runs and ONE GFCI.
Replace the GFCI...on General principles. AGE Takes it toll....look at my body... LOL...
Next. Use wire nuts and temporarily hook up the LINE to each. The ONE that feeds the Refrigerator ICEMAKER is where the problem is. NOW... MOVE that line up to the LINE SIDE of the NEW GFCI. That will fix it. Your ICEMAKER has a SMALL LEAK. TOTALLY (I am an EX Safety Director and taught the NEW OSHA Electrical Regs) SAFE. When you put the ICEMAKER circuit on the LINE...it becomes a Dedicated Circuit. You will NEVER see any issues. The leak in the icemaker is miniscule. You MAY, and as I said....I had the DOMETIC, have a defrost coil in there.. ONCE you move the ICEMAKER Circuit to the LINE....DRIVE ON.
You can replace the ICEMAKER... Many USED to buy them from LOWES...they were universal. Start GOOGLING... There are or is a LOT of cross referenced parts for the 1402....that is... IF YOU WANT the ICEMAKER. IF NOT....go inside and unplug it on the inside....not hard to do. I included the NEW manual for the Dometic. You can also find the PARTS list....and get the number. I replaced mine with a Samsung...so I don't have all the old information.
THAT'S IT. Problem solved... NOW, you can start on other adventures...
Les Hurdle
Many thanks......... I looked at that, but I think the issue is a little further 'out'......... the flooring guy will come and take a look.
L
BradHend
How was that to wire up into the steering column and back to the switches?
What exactly does ‘all the lights’ consist of?
NAMVET77
Well, today I learned how to cage the rear brakes. Once caged, I drove off the ramps I was on. No problem moving because the rear brakes were bypassed (caged). I had front brakes so I could still stop. I went up and down my drive way (200 feet) several times (slowly). Backed back in the garage and uncaged the rear brakes. Started it up again and it would not move!!!🤒 Replacing the air dryer body should not have anything with the brakes other than drying the air (at least that is what I can figure out). After some deep thinking on what I did with all the air leaks I had, I remembered I replaced the parking brake body you pull to engage the parking brake because it would leak air every time I applied the parking brake. So, tomorrow's project is to open the side panel and double check everything I did there. Took pics and put it back like it came apart. It's pretty straight forward to replace. But I'm thinking the issue is in the parking brake somewhere. Any thoughts??
Don
96 EVO
13 minutes ago, NAMVET77 said:But I'm thinking the issue is in the parking brake somewhere. Any thoughts??
Don
Possible.
If you had no issues moving your coach with the drive axle brakes caged, the shoes aren't stuck to the drums!
You also eliminated the possibility of your front pads stuck to the rotors.
Tom Cherry
12 minutes ago, NAMVET77 said:Well, today I learned how to cage the rear brakes. Once caged, I drove off the ramps I was on. No problem moving because the rear brakes were bypassed (caged). I had front brakes so I could still stop. I went up and down my drive way (200 feet) several times (slowly). Backed back in the garage and uncaged the rear brakes. Started it up again and it would not move!!!🤒 Replacing the air dryer body should not have anything with the brakes other than drying the air (at least that is what I can figure out). After some deep thinking on what I did with all the air leaks I had, I remembered I replaced the parking brake body you pull to engage the parking brake because it would leak air every time I applied the parking brake. So, tomorrow's project is to open the side panel and double check everything I did there. Took pics and put it back like it came apart. It's pretty straight forward to replace. But I'm thinking the issue is in the parking brake somewhere. Any thoughts??
Don
BINGO. If you caged and drove it….and then went back to “auto” and the brake switch ain’t releasing….time to do some exploratory surgery and see what ails the patient….
A NEW Nassan (spelling) switch might be a good investment….especially for your mental health and well being….
Paul J A
Air pressure slow to build
Happycarz
I couldn’t build air and I tried a governor first. No joy.
So I followed the Cummins QuickServe repair manual to diagnose it. In the compressor head is a spool valve the shuttles back and forth. Cummins has a process to feed the head ATF to free it up. It probably would work better on a gummy valve rather than my stuck valve. As I was on the way out of town, with friends waiting on me, I bought a new compressor head.
Replacing it was a challenge with the compressor still in place. Fortunately, I have a side radiator. Otherwise the compressor would have to be removed to replace the head. Once the head was off, I verified that the valve was stuck, firmly. (When I returned home, I was able to free the valve with carb cleaner and a lot of work. Cummins procedure would not have help mine.) The new head fixed my issue.
This is not your issue. I bring it up so others will know that the compressor head valve can get stuck.
Governors, air driers, check valves, air leaks and now compressor head valves all can cause low air. Take your choice.
But, share your story.
rschley
Hello Tom,
VOM checked input at the solenoid connector and have 7 volts dc coming in. Thinking that I can safely conclude a bad solenoid. Any thoughts on an HWH part number ? I will be calling the company tomorrow and Googling info yet tonight.
Thanks for your help.
Ron
Keith H.
I know this is a very stupid question. I searched and didn't find a thread, so here goes!
1. When the Inverter manual speaks of charging batteries, is it talking about the hiuse batteries or the chassis batteries?
2. Which batteries should I put the Battery Temperature Sensor, chassis or house?
when I got my coach it was just lying on the bottom of the battery compartment not attached to either house or chassis batteries.
3. When I use the battery cut iff switches to cut power to both chassis and house batteries, will that automatically shut down the inverter/charger?
Ivan K
Short version - Your inverter/charger is to primarily charge house batteries but on your Signature, there will be an arrangement to charge chassis as well.. It could be a maintainer or a solenoid relay which does that when house is at a certain charging voltage. Therefore the temp sensor goes on house batteries. As far as the disconnects, you might want to test it to be sure but my inverter does not get disconnected by house disconnect. Chassis disconnect has no effect on inverter.
Robert92867
I had to lay this out many years ago to see if I could make a certain turn.
Dr4Film
1. The Inverter uses the house battery bank to produce 120 VAC. When charging, it depends on your charging system. It should charge the house batteries first until Float SOC then charge the engine batteries to keep them fully charged.
2. House
3. No, you can turn off the Inverter which will no longer provide 120 VAC when disconnected from shore or generator power but there still may be some parasitic discharge from the Inverter.
joefromperry
On 4/21/2023 at 9:54 PM, joefromperry said:2003 Signature. Suddenly, when I turn on the power to the Aladdin and push the joystick up, the red light on the joystick lights, but no Aladdin data shows on the Panasonic screen. However, the screen displays radio stations, etc. just fine. Bedroom monitor shows nothing either. Looking at the individual modules on the top of the bay, none are lit. I dug the control unit and video unit from in the dash, and both test for 12 volt power, and all plugs are seated. The only fuses I've found, both inline in the dash and in the front run bay, are all good. I do have one purple wire that is unplugged, or never was plugged in. Maybe snooze with a similar setup can take a picture to show me where the wire goes. Thanks in advance.
UPDATE: problem solved (sort of). Although I haven't found where the purple cable attaches, I did solve the problem of no data showing up on my display. Once I saw all the little boxes on the top of the bay were receiving power and sending data, I realized the problem had to be just with video. Turns out the purple RCA cable in the picture above was connected to the Panasonic control box using a connector to another RCA cable. I decided I needed only one cable, so eliminated the connector and other cable, and suddenly I had the Aladdin video back. Just to make sure, while the Aladdin data was showing on the screen, I went back to the original setup with two RCA cables and a connector, and the display was gone again. So now I'm good. Thanks for all the suggestions and comments. I will be looking to upgrade from the Panasonic monitor / radio, but until I do, at least I have the Aladdin info back. Here's the culprit:
Rgoodman
5 hours ago, Robert92867 said:
I had to lay this out many years ago to see if I could make a certain turn.
That is great. If I’m reading that correctly the tire needs 15” to turn all the way out. I don’t have that much room. I will have to let it back down and back it straight out of garage and jack it up in the yard. Thank you!!
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