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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
Index
Tom Cherry
amphi_sc
Frank McElroy
Discussions
Dr4Film
In preparation for leaving Florida this Wednesday to travel to New Hampshire for our Workamping job this summer, I power washed the roof, then removed all three AC covers to clean the coils along with the everything else in there.
All of the screws holding the covers were rusted so threw those away and went to ACE Hardware to purchased all new stainless steel hardware.
I sprayed all of the coils with a can of coil cleaner purchased from Amazon. Scrubbed the coils a little then let the foam do its job. 10 minutes later I washed everything down with the pressure washer. Reinstalled the AC covers so now the AC's are good to go for the summer.
The two AC's up front are the older Penguin AC/HP units with drain cups however, the rear AC had been replaced with a new Penguin II AC/HP model but they chintz out and did NOT install a set of drain cups and extra gasket. Therefore, the AC condensate runs out onto and down the sides. What a PITA! They did keep the new control board for the new AC which I have in my spare parts cabinet. Someday when the two AC's up front bite the dust I will switch everything over to the same updated control boards and purchase the Micro-Air Thermostat to control the AC's.
Hope everyone has a good summer!
bryan browne
I had the same issue last month on a 2007 Dynasty, it was my clockspring that is under the steering wheel, I took it out, removed steering wheel and column cover and disconnected at base of steering column and from steering wheel, check continuity on the wires and they all showed good, put back in and some buttons worked so I new it had a back spot in it, ordered a new one and my issue appears to be fixed.
Tom Cherry
9 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:- Roadmaster base plate (installed May 2019 - I have towed the truck approximately 40,000 miles since then)
- Yes I used Loctite Red
- Yes I torqued to specifications (57 ft-lbs for 1/2” grade 5 bolts) using a Craftsman 1/2” drive torque wrench
- Yes, I checked them about a year ago.
- The bolts where the base plate broke had flat washer -> split washer -> nut as per the current instructions provided by Road-master (Kit 523182-5 dated 7/14/2020)
PS - I will add two additional comments:
1. The base plate was not loose when I set up for towing last Thursday. This is something I check every time
2. We came over some brutally bad roads from I-10 in Lafayette, LA to New Iberia, LA. I may have lost a few fillings on those roads, too…
That is exactly what I expected. WOW, FWIW... Every time I have selected a vendor or baseplate manufacturer, I downloaded the prints and instructions and Roadmaster always, from an engineering or design standpoint, was more robust.... typically had an additional fastener and/or had larger diameter fasteners.
Thanks for sharing... no matter how "RIGHT" one does it...sometimes things break. That is why safety chains and a braking system is so important.
I have lost my design engineer contact at Roadmaster....otherwise I would send it to you. But I have always had great response from one of their engineers if I had a technical question.
Glad you caught it...
jacwjames
Have you had to tighten the bolt in the past?
Did you consider contacting Roadmaster, they may be interested in taking a look at it. From the pictures I almost looks like some of the crack is older form the looks of the surface rust but I know surface rust can happen over night.
This is one of the reasons I force myself to do my own oil changes. It gives me a chance to inspect the baseplate.
Dr4Film
One of the very first things I do after rotating the Blue-Ox Tow Pins into the base plate to lock them in place is while holding the pin firmly, I rock it up and down then right and left to see if I have any unwanted movement in the baseplate. I also try to rotate the pin just to make sure it is lock into the correct position.
So far, no problem with towing the 06 Black Saturn Vue the last 15 years. This past January I found a 2006 Red Saturn Vue for sale in Ft Meyers. It was already setup for towing with a Blue-Ox Baseplate and electrical setup for the lights. Went to look at it in early March and purchased it. After returning home, I prepped the Black Saturn for sale with 20 photos of the car showing all of the paint problems plus a full honest description of its mechanical condition and what it needed mechanically. I had it sold within 3 days on Facebook Marketplace.
Our impending trip to New Hampshire this coming Wednesday will be the first time towing this "new" car. I don't expect to have any problems. These cars tow really easy. The only difference between our old one and this new one is the drive system. Our old one was FWD whereas the new one is AWD. The manual doesn't state to do anything different between the two different drive systems other than to lubricate the transmission using a very specific method, then you are good to tow all day. Next day, repeat the same transmission lubrication process.
joefromperry
MODERATOR's EDIT.
This issue is almost exactly the same or related to the current topic. SO, it has been merged
END OF EDIT
The driver side hydraulic slide on my 2003 Signature either does not move or moves jerkily (is that a word?) when trying to extend. It retracts more smoothly, but slowly. The passenger side slide works as it should. The reservoir is full. When I press the switch I can hear the motor run, but no movement. Sometimes, when slide is pushed from inside while trying to extend, is goes reluctantly.. Tapping on the solenoids (all of them, as I'm not sure which is the extend for that slide as I'm working alone) doesn't seem to do anything. The locks move freely.
Looking for suggestions here. Is there a way to see the rollers for possible damage, if it even has them? I have a replacement solenoid that should arrive today; I had replaced the extend one on the generator slide last year. Thank you for suggestions.
MyronTruex
Unfortunately my two AC's did not come with drain cups. The gallons of water coming over the sides can make a mess for sure. Making some cups that just slide under and then using some tubing the water is/was run over the sides. However the overhanging tubes just moved the water away from running down the sides but the splashing on the ground shoots up dirt. Another mess.
Using some PVC and velcro to attach them to the sides a rain gutter downspout was made that could be installed from the ground easily. They were ugly of course and not a great resolution.
It would be nice if someone with a printer could fashion cups that would just slide under the units and even with a very small diameter hose could be run over the sides.
Addressing the AC cleaning Richard, did you remove the condenser cover and clean the coils on them? Another tool that I wish someone would design is a plug to fit the opening so water can not get inside when cleaning them.
Using the thin flexible cutting boards allows me to deflect most of the water but is kind of cumbersome.
A water heater flushing tool makes water control easier when cleaning those condensers as well.
Glad you are getting out of the heat. Hopefully we will be able to travel this Spring.
MyronTruex
JB Weld should work. Use the 5 minute type and you can be back on the road in minutes. ☠️
Thanks for the heads up.
Tom Cherry
Comment, hopefully for clarity. The DEMCO AirForceOne braking system that has a small actuating cylinder that you hook up or attach to the brake pedal. The air signal from the MH modulates it and it applies progressive braking. Many are fans of it.
The M&G Braking system is a "Pneumatic" system where there is a "Actuator Module" or device that is added between the master cylinder and the vehicle's vacuum powered (now with the electric ABS like my previous Hummer H3 had...I don't know how the would or if they could do it). Thus, when you apply the coach brakes, the rears are the first to engage...then continued pedal pressure or force is modulated and the front brakes are applied. Since the M&G device actually operates the brake lever or treadle as we call it, there is NOTHING to hookup. I LIKE THAT. I installed it on my 2016 Yukon and have over 40K of towing.
The way the systems are activated is an "AIR SIGNAL" from one of the rear brakes. A "T" is put in the line. M&G runs this directly to a Quick Disconnect fitting in the rear and you "plug in the vehicle". AirForceOne has a different system. The signal or applying the brakes also has a "T", I think... that is in the line to one of the rear brake cannisters. However, there are check valves and a cannister and such so that the "BRAKING AIR" is NOT used....and the MH's "air system" is supposed to then apply the brakes so that there is NOT a direct use of the Braking air or if there is a hose rupture the braking system is not compromised.
The components in the pictures were identified by some as AirForceOne and then the topic continued.
Here is the Demco Manual if anyone is interested. I have the M&G and only have the simple "T" and am, potentially, however great or small, at the braking line being compromised. There have been no reports here of such. As a precaution, I ran the 1/2" line inside a 3/8" air line as a "conduit" to prevent accidental damage.
I also researched, online, and found to no issues or reports of problems with the M&G.
This topic is about a "leaning" condition...and there is now an AFO installation on the MH. Whether that is the issue or not... Don't know.
Whether the AFO system's instructions said to tap into a "leveling" system... Don't know.
But, since this something that many are not familiar with...the above....
Here is the Demco manual if one is curious. I WILL say that the M&G works flawlessly....and I highly recommend it.
Hope this clarifies it and then one can understand the comments....
Maintenance on Rooftop AC's
Jdw12345
Isn’t there a kit you can purchase with a gasket and drain cups to use the original drain line to the ground?
amphi_sc
Regarding an unexpected lean, and reading where you said you checked your air bags for leaks. From personal experience, an air bag can leak in certain inflation levels but not others. Just saying... I had a minor irritation where sometimes a corner would drop and other times not. I have only air leveling. I had aired the coach all the way up and sprayed bags and no leaks. At home with my driveway slope the rear is pretty much on the bump stops and front almost fully inflated. It would stay for days. Most campsites were fine ... many are sloped toward the front. Some campsites I couldn't stay level Finally I found the cause. I had an airbag that at about 1/3 inflation would start leaking at the roll point and thus go flat. At ride height or more the rubber sealed itself and it would hold air for days! Just saying to check oldish bags for leaks where the rubber may be rolling at different positions for minor leaks that open or close depending on rubber position. I'm sure my "sometimes" leak would have gotten progressively worse and become more obvious over time as the rubber deteriorated.
FWIW, just saying...
Scotty Hutto
50 minutes ago, MyronTruex said:JB Weld should work. Use the 5 minute type and you can be back on the road in minutes. ☠️
Thanks for the heads up.
Back on the road in minutes, and back in the ditch not long after. 😳🤣
1 hour ago, jacwjames said:Have you had to tighten the bolt in the past?
Did you consider contacting Roadmaster, they may be interested in taking a look at it.
Never had to tighten them. I pull the fascia off the front of the truck once a year and check them with a torque wrench.
As obvious as it sounds after reading your post, I haven’t thought to contact Roadmaster. Will do that now. I’ve been too focused on trying to get back on the road. We had a family situation arise last night that requires we divert to Tupelo, MS instead of heading home.
When it rains, it pours…
Tom Cherry
20 hours ago, David Pratt said:Tom-Ron
I attached a couple of wiring diagrams in case you may not have them.
HWH Hydraulic System Trouble Shooting.pdf 57.65 kB · 1 download HWH Hydraulic System.pdf 68.47 kB · 2 downloads
OK...for those not following. Ron and I and Frank McElroy have talked some. The INTELLITEC MPX system has an HWH Control Box.
We THINK that the system here is the original one. We can NOT find, in the 2005 Exec prints....a copy of the Driver's and Passenger's HWH slides...but this "optional" rear Bedroom Slide's is the same circuit that has been used before.
Frank and I talked. The 2005 Exec drawings that we have are an abortion. BUT, I DID find ONE print. This is for a PAIR of Rear Slides. SO....your have a PAIR of slides up front. I searched the PDF for HWH...NOPE. Then SLIDES. Found this one.
Here is the deal. The Switches get power from a separate source. As in, the lockout relay....which is also controlled or has lockouts for the DOORS or BAYS.
The incoming power for the switch goes up to the Pump Solenoid. When the MOTOR runs... the same POWER to the MOTOR sends a signal, via a 15 Amp Fuse, to the Solenoids... BUT, there is a SET of contacts on the Switch that control that.... THEN, the switch sends it out to the proper solenoid.
CONFUSING...YES...it has taken me years. When you push the switch, either way, ONE side of the switch sends power (either way) to the Solenoid. THEN the solenoid closes....and then the FUSED signal comes down to the Switch...on the OTHER SIDE or a separate set of contacts. Depending on WHICH way (retract or extend), then the switch energized the proper solenoid.
MY THEORY.... The FUSE BLEW. YES, the Switch will WORK...as it is powered from a separate source.
YES....the motor starts...as that is powered from the Lockout relay. BUT, then the power to the Motor comes back down to the switch (other side) and then the direction or RET or EXT is controlled by the switch and it then energizes the correct solenoid.
OK...HOW TO TEST. IF you measure the EXTEND Solenoid....then I'll wager (think) that you will NOT see power there either. SO, in essence....the entire SLIDE is dead...It won't GO either way.
I have NO IDEA, nor does Frank, as to where that fuse is. I suspect it is at the PUMP SOLENOID. IF I am RIGHT....then if you follow the power out of the SOLENOID to the motor...there should be THREE small wires as well. Each one is for EACH slide. There SHOULD be three FUSES... One for EACH slide. If the Driver's SLIDE doesn't work....then it would NOT MOVE either way. Replace the FUSE...
NOW...NO JOY. THEN, run a lamp cord line to the solenoid. One side from the PUMP MOTOR side of the solenoid and a GROUND. Hook at up to the Solenoid. IF I am right...your slide will come in. You will have to locate, in the future the fuse.
THE OTHER OPTION. You have a BAD SWITCH. ONE SIDE works. The OTHER doesn't... You COULD (take pictures and label), SWAP the switches...and that should make them work...
That's it...
Tom Cherry
1 hour ago, joefromperry said:MODERATOR's EDIT.
This issue is almost exactly the same or related to the current topic. SO, it has been merged
END OF EDIT
The driver side hydraulic slide on my 2003 Signature either does not move or moves jerkily (is that a word?) when trying to extend. It retracts more smoothly, but slowly. The passenger side slide works as it should. The reservoir is full. When I press the switch I can hear the motor run, but no movement. Sometimes, when slide is pushed from inside while trying to extend, is goes reluctantly.. Tapping on the solenoids (all of them, as I'm not sure which is the extend for that slide as I'm working alone) doesn't seem to do anything. The locks move freely.
Looking for suggestions here. Is there a way to see the rollers for possible damage, if it even has them? I have a replacement solenoid that should arrive today; I had replaced the extend one on the generator slide last year. Thank you for suggestions.
Joe,
Frank and I believe that your system is the same as the 2005 Exec...thus the combining or merging.
I would do the following.
Get a long piece of Lamp Cord...18 Gauge is fine. Need some alligator clips or dual alligator lead clips. On the Driver's side....hook up the lamp cord to either of the two solenoids. Then, run that to your VOM and cycle the slides. IF you get an instant 12 VDC on either direction....then the SIGNAL is OK. IF you get an intermittent, then there is a problem...possibly incoming power to the switches (common from the Lockout) or a bad connection down stream. If the fuse is good, you will get instant power. IF IT is erratic...check the fuse.
NO JOY. Then cycle the slides. You SHOULD always HOLD IN the button, either way for a count of maybe 3 until you hear the pitch of the motor change. Cycle this a few times either way to get any trapped air our of the system.
PAST THAT... it may be mechanical. The fact the the PUMP is running means that the switch power is OK....and if it continues to run...then if the solenoids are getting power....then you know electrically...all is well. The odds or BOTH solenoids going bad? LOW. But, many have had issues. There is ONE thing you can try. IF you are getting a LOW VOLTAGE to the motor...then it WILL... I KNOW THIS...be UGLY. IF you use your lamp cord and hook it up to the MOTOR LEADS... Run the Passenger Slides. Look at the MOTOR voltage. NOW, do the same with the Driver's slides. IF there is a Voltage drop...that means that the Passenger (usually shorter and lighter) is easier to MOVE.
The WAY TO TEST THAT.. Use a Jumper Cable from the Chassis to the HOUSE. SHORE ON. THEN run the slides. If the Voltage on the Drivers drops LESS, then you have an issue with the wiring to the MOTOR or you have weak House. ONE THING.... Do some PM and clean the GROUNDS on BOTH banks behind the battery boxes (BOTH BATTERIES OFF). Then go up front and find the GROUND side of the motor. Clean the GROUND stud for that as well. I had an issue....lower voltage...and it was a ground issue... Cleaned all grounds. WORKED.
Many causes... you have to narrow down and eliminate each one. IF you have a major difference in each side's voltage...then use your vehicle and jump GROUND to GROUND and then put your vehicle's positive to the INCOMING side of the Solenoid. IF that speeds it up...wiring. IF NOT...mechanical...
Good Luck...
Kenster
On 4/11/2024 at 7:12 AM, Bar SR Ranch said:Please read entire post before responding to help with any confusion. I will try and keep this short and to the point but still explain the situation.
Frank McElroy has been helping me, so he is involved. Thank you, Frank.
I have acquired a 2009 Dynasty Bishop with the Kongsberg CCM system and unfortunately the dash Eaton switch modules have been removed (I don't have them to be repaired). Someone did do a work around on some of the required circuits. Want to restore to OEM.
Looking for the Kongbergs/Eaton Master Switch Module P/N 16623947 or 10121223 also P/N 16623951 would work this is the other master module but can be reprogramed. I have found 5-switch modules that are downstream from the dash master some will need to be reprogramed but we all know that Frank can do that now.
I live in Oregon about 130 miles from Coburg and was able to find 5 new switch modules that I needed by personally going to that area this is really the only way I was successful in locating the 5 I did find.
These are the locations I have personally gone NW RV Supply, REV Group in Coburg, Oregon Motor Coach, Premier RV Service, Biship (Guaranty), Beaver Coach in Bend and some others.
I have reached out to The REV Group in Indiana and every salvage yard in the county that I know of probably about 12 of them, I am on many lists if they get any of the modules, and every other parts resource that I have found across the county.
If you happen to see a Dynasty, Signature or HR, I think some of the Beaver coaches also had the Kongburg CCM in the 2008 to 2010 range that was wrecked someplace, please let me know yes, I am looking for a needle in a haystack.
Is there anyone that is close to the REV group in Indiana that would be willing to go there personally and check for me I would compensate you for your time, reason I ask is I have purchased 2 of the switch module from the REV group in Coburg but they are not in their inventory and completely deny they have any, but they really do just not in their inventory so who knows what they may have in Indiana but a face to face may help. I also had to politely ask them to bring out every switch module they had so I could look at them when I was at the Coburg location, they didn't really even want to do that when I was standing right there.
Attached is the master switch module I am needing.
If you have any of the switch module you want to sell, please reach out to me even if it isn't the one below it may be one that would work for me by reprograming.
I believe the switch is nothing more than a switch / relay module all built in one. Frankly, a stupid idea. If you have a wiring diagram and a little low voltage aptitude, you can easily Buy three replacement switches with a three gang faceplate, and dry contact relays according to the rated amps required, basically recreating the module. If a replacement is not available, this is exactly what any competent low voltage guy would do. If you are unable to find a direct replacement, let me know and and I would be happy help you Source the parts and draw up a wiring diagram for it.
Ivan K
On ours, the 12V for units and thermostats comes through a 2A fuse in bedroom fuse box. May or may not be similar with yours.
Frank McElroy
2 minutes ago, Kenster said:I believe the switch is nothing more than a switch / relay module all built in one. Frankly, a stupid idea. If you have a wiring diagram and a little low voltage aptitude, you can easily Buy three replacement switches with a three gang faceplate, and dry contact relays according to the rated amps required, basically recreating the module. If a replacement is not available, this is exactly what any competent low voltage guy would do. If you are unable to find a direct replacement, let me know and and I would be happy help you Source the parts and draw up a wiring diagram for it.
These switches generate and send a digital code on a dedicated J1939 databus going to 2 Kongsberg CCM modules. These CCM modules then power item based on switch digital code input. That's how a chassis multiplex system works.
These are NOT just simply a series of switches and internal relays.
joefromperry
14 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:Joe,
Frank and I believe that your system is the same as the 2005 Exec...thus the combining or merging.
I would do the following.
Get a long piece of Lamp Cord...18 Gauge is fine. Need some alligator clips or dual alligator lead clips. On the Driver's side....hook up the lamp cord to either of the two solenoids. Then, run that to your VOM and cycle the slides. IF you get an instant 12 VDC on either direction....then the SIGNAL is OK. IF you get an intermittent, then there is a problem...possibly incoming power to the switches (common from the Lockout) or a bad connection down stream. If the fuse is good, you will get instant power. IF IT is erratic...check the fuse.
NO JOY. Then cycle the slides. You SHOULD always HOLD IN the button, either way for a count of maybe 3 until you hear the pitch of the motor change. Cycle this a few times either way to get any trapped air our of the system.
PAST THAT... it may be mechanical. The fact the the PUMP is running means that the switch power is OK....and if it continues to run...then if the solenoids are getting power....then you know electrically...all is well. The odds or BOTH solenoids going bad? LOW. But, many have had issues. There is ONE thing you can try. IF you are getting a LOW VOLTAGE to the motor...then it WILL... I KNOW THIS...be UGLY. IF you use your lamp cord and hook it up to the MOTOR LEADS... Run the Passenger Slides. Look at the MOTOR voltage. NOW, do the same with the Driver's slides. IF there is a Voltage drop...that means that the Passenger (usually shorter and lighter) is easier to MOVE.
The WAY TO TEST THAT.. Use a Jumper Cable from the Chassis to the HOUSE. SHORE ON. THEN run the slides. If the Voltage on the Drivers drops LESS, then you have an issue with the wiring to the MOTOR or you have weak House. ONE THING.... Do some PM and clean the GROUNDS on BOTH banks behind the battery boxes (BOTH BATTERIES OFF). Then go up front and find the GROUND side of the motor. Clean the GROUND stud for that as well. I had an issue....lower voltage...and it was a ground issue... Cleaned all grounds. WORKED.
Many causes... you have to narrow down and eliminate each one. IF you have a major difference in each side's voltage...then use your vehicle and jump GROUND to GROUND and then put your vehicle's positive to the INCOMING side of the Solenoid. IF that speeds it up...wiring. IF NOT...mechanical...
Good Luck...
Thank you very much, Tom. You've given me some things to look at, and I plan to do that today. I am curious, though, if my slideouts have rollers, and if so, can they be seen by me somehow. FWIW, the bottom of all my slide outs is in very good shape, with no warping, gouges, etc. (I probably just jinxed myself here.) Thanks again. I'll post what I find.
Kenster
You would be amazed by what my field technicians can do with different applications. Anyway, it sounds like you have found a source for the module which will certainly be the easiest approach. Please follow up when you get it resolved.
2007 HR Endeavor. What are these strange fittings? Do they connect to leveling system? Thanks.
Gweedo
Thank you for the responses guys, I am gonna go out this morning and see what it looks like and I’ll post it.
if I can I’ll eliminate the AFO system by getting rid of the Tee fitting n put in a straight fitting like suggested by Ivan.
so I went out to check this morning, no lean. And I realize the front slide out was open about 10” I closed it n both side fronts measure the same
I only lost 3lbs of air last night, but 23lbs from its fullest
so today I will make sure I can replace the fitting n eliminate the AFO
thank you everyone for your input
A Tale of Caution: Check your base plate!
96 EVO
1 hour ago, Scotty Hutto said:
Never had to tighten them.
I'll inspect, but don't retighten nuts I've installed with Loctite!
96 EVO
1 hour ago, Ingram Ranch said:let me see what a Fridge defend is and i will get back to you.
Well, I sleep better at night since installing one!
Wish I had purchased one when they first came out!
grizzly
2 hours ago, Ivan K said:On ours, the 12V for units and thermostats comes through a 2A fuse in bedroom fuse box. May or may not be similar with yours.
Thank you that solved that issue but I still have issue with front unit coming on when I turn switch to on and nothing turned on. Did everything Tom Cherry said and still have issue
On 4/14/2024 at 11:01 AM, Tom Cherry said:His is different. FRONT Thermostat only controls front unit. One DATA COMMUNICATION CABLE (NOT PHONE) from Thermostat to plenum. Them attached to one of the dangling connctors.
He HAS power (12 VDC) to top control unit, otherwise Thermostat would not be functional..
HIS rear controls bedroom and then middle. Might have a zone 4….
I’D SWAP THERMOSTATS FIRST. EASY. Just RESET each. You HAVE 12 VDC on a pair (2 wires) of the Two Pair (4 wire) phone cable. That is what makes Thermostat light up. Power comes from front control unit. The OTHER pair is a “Multiplexed” signal. It is NOT an on or off. Pull front. Clean the data cable and the thermostat female end….plug and unplug a few times….reset….NO JOY
YOU CAN take the front Thermostat to the rear. Plug it in there. The. RESET. If it runs the rear systems, then NOT the Thermostat. There is NOTHING to set or change….plug and play. That is easiest…..eliminate components.NEXT UP
Water Damaged Manabloc Bay Floor - Suggestions on Replacement
jacwjamesSo after looking at what would be involved with trying to replace the whole floor I decided to get creative. The left side floor was pretty solid but the right side wasn't.
So I decided to use a hole saw and drill a ~1.5" hole in the top laminate. The wood was pretty much gone so I made a hook tool and pulled a bunch out using the tool and a vacuum. I created a pretty good void. I then took 4 old hacksaw blades and was able to shove them in the hole and position them in a crisscross pattern. I had a large bottle that fit tightly in the hole, I cut the bottom off to make a funnel and then I drilled 6 small holes around the neck of the bottle and then screwed the bottle into floor, it was a tight fit. The road side portion of the floor was sagging down so I measured and used a piece of 8X12" lumber and pushed back up and put a piece of wood to hold it up. I then mixed up a generous amount of epoxy and slowly poured it into the funnel, it slowly flowed into the void. the bottom of the wet bay actually bulged up a little but no leaks. I let all the epoxy flow in and slowly unscrewed the funnel. Epoxy stayed put. I then took the hole portion of the floor that I cut out and taped it over the hole. Then put a board across with some weight to level out the floor with the wood underneath still in place.
I looks like for the time being it fixed my problem. A large portion of the floor that was punky is now solid. The piece was held in with epoxy that had leveled out in the circle void from where I cut it out. The hole is noticable but will not leak and the floor is pretty darn sold. I'm satisfied with the repair. If the left side gets softer I'll do the same thing on that side. Heck of alot easier then trying to rip out the whole floor which extends back under the wall in front of the fresh water tank.
Best replacement water pump?
Redg582008 Monaco Dynasty43’
need to replace my water pump, currently looking a Remco Aquajet 55 ARV w/inline fuse. But I have an accumulator tank and researching this pump it doesn’t appear to be a good fit. This pump is not a variable speed, needs to be full on and not have an accumulator. What’s everyone using as a replacement? Are you removing the tank?
thanks for any and all responses!
Need Kongsberg Master Switch Module - Was REMOVED from MH and bypassed. NEED A SWITCH - Working or NOT!!
KensterAfter speaking with one of our technicians, he claims, when they are unable to replace a faulty or damaged reporting/signaling device on a J1939 databus network, they have used some type of a data bus digital to analog converter for the device. He also said it's
generally hit or miss. Either way, let's hope you find the correct part and are able to reestablish the connection. Keep us posted. He was supposed
Best replacement water pump?
Tom CherryBeen a fan of them since day one when they were AquaTech. Remember to buy the BACKFLOW PART. @Scotty Hutto wrote about this. Many RV manufacturers are plumbing in a hard BF or check valve. That is reason it is no longer included.
As to accumulator….my “gist” of all the comments…. AquaTech was adamant. Do not use. Many have used them. Personal choice. Does it make a difference? Not in mine. Wotks great. If I were a fan of accumulators, I would try it….and plug off the connection to my accumulator. Most have found that age gets to accumulators. Those of us always on a well know that they go bad and the diaphragm gets pinhole leaks and you have to “re-air”. An accumulator is the same as a “well tank”. AquaTech said a faulty or leaking accumulator sort of drove the pressure regulator chip or board “crazy”. It would cycle on, sometimes at night and folks complain. Not the pump’s fault….it just turned on when system pressure dropped. The RV55 has avariable speed regulator so it starts to slow doen the pump or “growls” at the end. A faulty accumulator exacerbates that.
But again….your call. I would guess a majority , if not a large portion don’t have or eliminated their accumulator.
NO KNOCKING folks that feel they improve system….we each have our own criteria…
Folks will respond….highly discussed topic every time it comes up.
2005 Signature. HWH slide out hesitates, choppy
Tom Cherry2 hours ago, joefromperry said:Thank you very much, Tom. You've given me some things to look at, and I plan to do that today. I am curious, though, if my slideouts have rollers, and if so, can they be seen by me somehow. FWIW, the bottom of all my slide outs is in very good shape, with no warping, gouges, etc. (I probably just jinxed myself here.) Thanks again. I'll post what I find.
Can’t help you there….but low voltages are a PITA. They also damage and eventually kill motors. When the voltage drops, then the motor says….gotta pull more amps….big time. Motors are rated in watts…VOLTS times AMP. So a 960 Watt motor (FLA of 80) times 12 equals 960. Drop to 10 VDC. OPPS 96 AMPS….Lower….worse it gets. My Lippert slide was rated at 65 FLA and Monaco goofed. Removed the recommended 80 A and put in a 150. When there was a loose motor lead and low volts….i pulled 140 A. Motor was toasted. Fixed connection. Switched from House to Chassis…. But, it was costly. $1,700 For new pump and valve unit. Labor took that up to $2,500. Be surprised how much you learn about phsics and circuits and electrical knowledge when it hits your pocket book.
@throgmartin is the slide guy. All my stuff was general based on folks problems over the years and helping offline troubleshooting…..
Best replacement water pump?
jacwjamesWhen I bought my 2002 Windsor the previous owner had already replaced the water pump and removed the accumulator tank. The pump was the Aquajet 55. This pump failed in 2011 and I replaced it with the Aquajet 55 series. Fast forward to last year the diaphram for the pressure switch started to leak, they do not sell just the the diaphram (probably a $0.25 piece). I ended up buying the a Remco pressure switch just to get the diaphram but that fixed the leak. Took a trip in June, all was good.
Then in Oct I was leaving for another extended trip and when I turned on the water pump it wouldn't start, Tapped the pressure switch with the end of a screw driver and the pump started BUT then it would shut off. So I went ahead and replace the pressure switch but couldn't get it to adjust to stop the pump, >>> CALLED Remco and talk to a tech and he said I couldn't replace the switch, this only could be done at the factory on a test stand. I know others post that it can be adjusted, I am just relaying what the tech told me.
So I left on my trip and just turned the pump on/off at the switch until I got a chance to stop at RV store in Grand Junction. I decided to just replace with the cheapest one I could find and ended up buying a Lippert 2005 Signature. HWH slide out hesitates, choppy
Ivan KJoe, if you are looking to inspect your rollers and it isn't a drop down slide, also assuming the kitchen and sofa is on that slide like ours.... two rollers are accessible under false kitchen cabinet floor and two more are mounted under the sofa but from under the floor, accessible from the wheel well and LPG tank compartment. If your floor plan is different, it changes things.
Best replacement water pump?
Tom Cherry8 minutes ago, jacwjames said:When I bought my 2002 Windsor the previous owner had already replaced the water pump and removed the accumulator tank. The pump was the Aquajet 55. This pump failed in 2011 and I replaced it with the Aquajet 55 series. Fast forward to last year the diaphram for the pressure switch started to leak, they do not sell just the the diaphram (probably a $0.25 piece). I ended up buying the a Remco pressure switch just to get the diaphram but that fixed the leak. Took a trip in June, all was good.
Then in Oct I was leaving for another extended trip and when I turned on the water pump it wouldn't start, Tapped the pressure switch with the end of a screw driver and the pump started BUT then it would shut off. So I went ahead and replace the pressure switch but couldn't get it to adjust to stop the pump, >>> CALLED Remco and talk to a tech and he said I couldn't replace the switch, this only could be done at the factory on a test stand. I know others post that it can be adjusted, I am just relaying what the tech told me.
So I left on my trip and just turned the pump on/off at the switch until I got a chance to stop at RV store in Grand Junction. I decided to just replace with the cheapest one I could find and ended up buying a Lippert TSD Fuel Card
IvylogStopped at a Buc.ees in December on way south and again 10 days ago as their price was better than any TSDs and I get 5% back. This one has 3 entrances and the last one is less crowded and the last island is all diesel and DEF if you need it.
Interesting pump and no you can’t get DEF by mistake as it has a separate button and hose behind a sliding window. Diesel hose and lever to turn on is on the right. 232 pumps is pretty amazing.
TSD Fuel Card
jacwjames15 minutes ago, Ivylog said:Stopped at a Buc.ees in December on way south and again 10 days ago as their price was better than any TSDs and I get 5% back. This one has 3 entrances and the last one is less crowded and the last island is all diesel and DEF if you need it.
Interesting pump and no you can’t get DEF by mistake as it has a separate button and hose behind a sliding window. Diesel hose and lever to turn on is on the right. 232 pumps is pretty amazing.
There is a Buckee's about 30 miles from us on I40 at the Sevierville exit, there price is $3.48, ~$0.57 cheaper then the two Pilot truck stops close to us.
I'm currently looking at options include the TSD & Mudflap apps. Anyone have any opinions on which one would work better for us??
Actually downloading the Mudflap app as we speak. On my last trip I was filling up next to a big Tiffin and he said he uses Mudflap, said he thought it was better then TSD card.
My wife is getting ready to head out on extended trip going to dog shows and visiting friends. So now I'm thinking I need to do something so she can try and get cheaper fuel. She already knows to shop around using Gasbuddy but sometimes you've got to bite the bullet and go to a truck stop.
TSD Fuel Card
jacwjamesNot a bad idea.
I'm just looking at Mudflap now and it says with Mudflap that you and use any credit card to pay, so if I'd put in Sam's card I assume I'd get the 5% discount besides what the I'd get using the app.
Is TSD the same?
Just setting up a Mudflap app and when I went to setup payment it says there is a 1.9% fee for a credit card.
If I still get the 5% Sams card that would be the best option but how do I confirm??
Oil pressure gauge dead?
cbr046I discovered someone had replaced the 3 conductor sensor near the lift pump with the 2 conductor switch + harness.
I replaced the sensor near the oil filter with VDO 360023 150 PSI Pressure Sender and all is good. The old sensor measured 17 ohms (should be 10 ohms).
@MichaelU295's $14 Tyenaza sensor but more comfortable with a M10x1.0 vs 1/8x27 NPT threading . . . and VDO branding. Maybe the metric vs NPT threading is the same . . . maybe not (1.0 mm would be 25 threads / in)
Thanks to @jacwjames for helping me through the Cummins Quickserve system.
- bob
TSD Fuel Card
Ivan KDepends if you get the 5% on any purchase. For my CC it is classified as merchandise purchase, not fuel purchase since it is charged by Mudflap, not by the fuel station.
TSD takes the money from your bank account so no 'cashbacking'....hate that commercial...
Oil pressure gauge dead?
jacwjamesGlad you got it fixed with a reasonably small amount of $$$.
They've changed the quickserve website quite bit from when I first started using ~13 years ago. Still have trouble finding things but it is a good resource.
TSD Fuel Card
jacwjamesThat is why I avoided TSD is they want access to bank account which in today's cyber world isn't appealing to me.
With Mudflap I can use a CC which has always addressed any issues I had in the past regarding bogus charges.
Debit accounts aren't as forgiving>>>> but with a 1.9% difference on several thousand in fuel cost could persuade me to change.
TSD Fuel Card
Ivylog41 minutes ago, jacwjames said:f I still get the 5% Sams card that would be the best option but how do I confirm??
I wish it was, but you ASSUME incorrectly… you do not get the 5% Sam’s discount as it’s billed as merchandise, not fuel. Probably 80% of the time I find GassBuddy with Sam’s card the cheapest (usually at a Sam’s) and TSD or Mud the other 20%.
I have a checking account that I use for TSD and EBay with very little money in it unless traveling
Best replacement water pump?
Dr4FilmI have this Remco TSD Fuel Card
jacwjames5 minutes ago, Ivylog said:I wish it was, but you ASSUME incorrectly… you do not get the 5% Sam’s discount as it’s billed as merchandise, not fuel. Probably 80% of the time I find GassBuddy with Sam’s card the cheapest (usually at a Sam’s) and TSD or Mud the other 20%.
When I travel and need to stop for fuel I'll look at my route ahead of time and use GasBuddy to find the lowest fuel price. I agree that this is probably the best option. Gasbuddy map is nationwide and pretty dependable.
BUT I'm looking at setting something for my wife, who doesn't have the discipline that I do.
Either way I'll have to track the charges and try and catch discrepancies in either the CC or Debit card. I know that I can set up alerts on the debit card for purchases over a certain amount.
A Tale of Caution: Check your base plate!
Paul J AI used stainless steel bolts, with castle nuts and stainless steel hair pin clips for fasteners for the base plates on the toad.
Also used stainless pins with drilled holes for a lock on each pin.
The carbon steel base plate is the weakest link in the chain. The land between the holes, space, makes me nervous.
IF the toad is of an age that justifies the investment I would replicate the toad base plate brackets in stainless and be done . Pretty simple part to do. A reputable quality fab shop could do that easily.
2005 Signature. HWH slide out hesitates, choppy
joefromperry1 hour ago, Ivan K said:Joe, if you are looking to inspect your rollers and it isn't a drop down slide, also assuming the kitchen and sofa is on that slide like ours.... two rollers are accessible under false kitchen cabinet floor and two more are mounted under the sofa but from under the floor, accessible from the wheel well and LPG tank compartment. If your floor plan is different, it changes things.
Thanks, Ivan. The slide I was having trouble with is the opposite side from the kitchen and couch. But, as I was just going to reply to Tom, after crawling under and disconnecting connectors and changing fuses, then cleaning/coating them all with DeoxiT, I ran that problem slide in and out three times. Go figure. I'll try again tomorrow to make sure I wasn't hallucinating.
2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:Can’t help you there….but low voltages are a PITA. They also damage and eventually kill motors. When the voltage drops, then the motor says….gotta pull more amps….big time. Motors are rated in watts…VOLTS times AMP. So a 960 Watt motor (FLA of 80) times 12 equals 960. Drop to 10 VDC. OPPS 96 AMPS….Lower….worse it gets. My Lippert slide was rated at 65 FLA and Monaco goofed. Removed the recommended 80 A and put in a 150. When there was a loose motor lead and low volts….i pulled 140 A. Motor was toasted. Fixed connection. Switched from House to Chassis…. But, it was costly. $1,700 For new pump and valve unit. Labor took that up to $2,500. Be surprised how much you learn about phsics and circuits and electrical knowledge when it hits your pocket book.
@throgmartin is the slide guy. All my stuff was general based on folks problems over the years and helping offline troubleshooting…..
So, after crawling under and disconnecting connectors and changing fuses, then cleaning/coating them all with DeoxiT, I ran that problem slide in and out three times. Not sure why it suddenly. works; all the connectors and fuses look fine. Chris Talin will be my next connection if problems reoccur. I'll see how it behaves tomorrow. Thanks for your help, Tom.
refrigerator question
rustykramermetalfabNot a big deal. Instructions are on line on their web site. Just a few wires and a couple of sensors on the boiler tubes.
Another Girard Door Awning Question/Problem, 2006 Dynasty.
Trevor and LauraWe may be into that oh cupboard and the awning controller again as one of the window awnings that was slow now seems to have died, luckily it's 90+% in..
We have successfully adjusted the "out" limit of the patio Girard and it stops before the arms lose their tension/lock ..
Thanks to all for your help and support
Laura and Trevor
Best replacement water pump?
tmw188Similar story, I replaced my OE with the Remco Power RV Series Aquajet 5.3 mine did not have an accumulator tank. I too could not get parts for the old leaking one. I installed w/o a check valve. Loop hoses as it was. I will tell you this these pumps are rated potable drinking water safe because they have orings and diaphrams made of different material than a typical general purpose agricultural pumps which are less expensive. Others I’m told can get bacteria and other not so friendly growth on them. That’s why the correct pumps say drinking water safe or potable water safe. To get the warranty you have to purchase from their sellers like CW and other rv centers. Best price believe it or not was at CW, I purchased in FL $224.00
Best replacement water pump?
1nolaguyLast year I replaced the OEM water pump in our 2005 Safari Cheetah with a PowerMax's Shurflo 4008 |101-A65/E65 |12V 3 Gallon RV replacement water pump ($64 from Amazon). While I do not have a accumulator the design of this pump should not be effected by that extra equipment. Also, if you have an accumulator you would not want a high volume pump. Most pumps in general do not like to be short cycled.
THANK YOU
Keith H.I just wanted to take this opportunity th say THANKS to the Administrators and Moderators or Monacoers. It has taught me so much and I have merely scratched the surface. I still have so much to learn but its obvious, you guys have forgotten more than I will ever know!!
THANK YOU
Paul Buschyou are spot on. This sight is such a big help and all the people are so helpful.
Best replacement water pump?
Redg58Thanks for you response guys……ordered the Remco Aquajet variable flow 5.3 gallon. Haven’t decided if removing the accumulator yet
Install bedroom door
John C2 hours ago, birdshill123 said:John. The photo is in this thread.
Unfortunately those doesn't show the bottom where the two Flush sliding dead bolt lock are installed...
On 4/12/2024 at 5:37 PM, det944 said:Hello John,
Attached are some pictures from my 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV bedroom door installation from the factory. It is a sliding door (similar to a pocket door) attached to an upper track. There is a lower track that guides the door into the stowed position and a lower lock pin which locks the door in the stowed position for travel (again similar function to the front pocket door).
@det944 Could you please show me two pictures where the Flush sliding dead bolt locks are installed? according to @birdshill123 there are two Flush sliding dead bolt locks installed, I understand I need one the left side(look from the inside the bedroom) when the door is open and I need to lock the door in opened position but not sure about the one on the right hand side(look from inside the bedroom)
Thank you very much.
John
On 4/13/2024 at 5:49 AM, jacwjames said:John,
I hadn't had time to get any pictures but my pocket door track is mounted the same. Monaco put a trim piece on either side to dress up the ceiling, this is removeable to be able to access the door to adjust and remove if necessary. Keep that in mine as you are installing yours!!!
The original doors are very well made and solid wood, in my case Walnut. One option would have been to contact a cabinet shop and had them duplicate with the species of wood work you have but it would have been expensive. And it still would have been difficult to match the patina of the wood as it aged. Lumber prices have gone crazy. So the $400 is probably a decent price to get something that matches.
unfortunately the $400.00 door is the same style as my other door, it is different.
Here is my new $200.00 door, looks identical to my other door, now I just need to sand, stain and seal it.
refrigerator question
96 EVOYeah I think I installed mine in 3 or 4 hours.
My Dometic fridge was a little more complicated install, as I had to install a relay so that the power for the defrost elements didn't go thru the Fridge Defend controller.
It was actually a good learning experience for me, as I'm not an electrical guy!
I learned about what relays are for, and have since installed a couple more fore other projects!
Best replacement water pump?
Tom Cherry1 hour ago, Redg58 said:Thanks for you response guys……ordered the Remco Aquajet variable flow 5.3 gallon. Haven’t decided if removing the accumulator yet
Unless you KNOW the present accumulator is “absolutely perfect” as in the internal bladder is water tight, you might want to cap off the fitting and pull it out. Weighing it and comparing to the same one….to determine if there is water on the air bladder side or the ever popular “shake and slosh” test is the only way.
many folks here use a 2X 8, pressure treated pad. They screw it down to a 1/4” hard rubber sheet or something to prevent vibration. Then they use the 18” Loops. You can buy the 1/2” reinforced tubing at Lowes and make the inlet and outlet vibration reduction loops. That really makesthe pump almost silent.
Assume you also ordered the check assembly or the backflow preventer for the outlet….otherwise, install a hard plumbed one.
That is a nice looking Dynasty. The 2008 would be my choice…..sharp
2005 Signature. HWH slide out hesitates, choppy
Tom CherryJoe,
Glad you are making progress. Ron texted me earlier today. Been outside recovering our screened porch from the “code 5 pollen season”. Ron called a mobile tech. Had sent him the print and went over circuit. No feedback. Guess we just wait….
2006 Dynasty - Front (Galley?) fan replacement , no power to wires. Help appreciated.
DanVickiehey all,
i have good news on fixing my galley fan no power to wires which previously worked. finally changed out bad fan motor,
relay and fuse both were good in aqua hot bay. i finally tracked down more fuses which i originally thought it had to be because of bad fan motor.
here is my findings with pics, remember i have a 2006 dynasty 43 king III. one and a half bath.
3 fuses were blown in the rear closet, unmarked, and 2 looked good, i always put them on a meter to check. after i found one and 1 fan speed worked , i figured to keep going on this multiplex . these fuses were on E, channels 5,6,and 7. Thanks to all who helped on this with their knowledge.!!
Install bedroom door
det944Hello John,
The 1st two photos are of the lower Flush sliding dead bolt lock installation for locking the door in the open position for travel. This is similar to the ones posted by Richard. Photos 3-6 are of the latch that holds the door in the closed position. My MH also has these same Flush sliding dead bolt lock and latch on the pocket door between the kitchen and shower area. Hope this helps.
2005 Signature. HWH slide out hesitates, choppy
pwhittleOn 4/13/2024 at 4:14 PM, Tom Cherry said:PROGRESS. As suspected....NO INTELLITEC MPX. That is GOOD.
That is the first 2005 Signature I have seen without the Intellitec Multiplex.
The Executives and Dynasty’s also got Intellitec from 2006 onwards.
Paul
Aladdin
rvendraminMy Aladdin stopped working. Seen to have no power to the screen. Checked fuses and they are all ok. The selector and arrow up and down right and left has power light on. Any ideas why screen not coming on? TIA
TSD Fuel Card
Steven P5 hours ago, jacwjames said:That is why I avoided TSD is they want access to bank account which in today's cyber world isn't appealing to me.
I have TSD and was worried about this too. I created a fuel account that TSD is tied to. I move $ in when needed to only keep a small amount in case of hacking. Never had an issue.
Install bedroom door
John C56 minutes ago, det944 said:Hello John,
The 1st two photos are of the lower Flush sliding dead bolt lock installation for locking the door in the open position for travel. This is similar to the ones posted by Richard. Photos 3-6 are of the latch that holds the door in the closed position. My MH also has these same Flush sliding dead bolt lock and latch on the pocket door between the kitchen and shower area. Hope this helps.
@det944 Thank you for the quick response. I totally misunderstood, I thought you have two Flush sliding dead bolt locks one on each side at the bottom, that is why I didn't understand. Looks like you only have one Flush sliding dead bolt lock and one pocket door lock, that is exactly what I thought it should be.
Quick question, since there is a corner(4" please see attached in red circle )at the end of the door (when closed) the door is 30", when you close the door, the door will hit the corner and still have 4" outside in the doorway.
Could you please confirm that is the case?
Thanks again.
2005 Signature. HWH slide out hesitates, choppy
Tom Cherry43 minutes ago, pwhittle said:That is the first 2005 Signature I have seen without the Intellitec Multiplex.
The Executives and Dynasty’s also got Intellitec from 2006 onwards.
Paul
His pictures show manual switches. Frank and I concluded no MPX. That’s all the info I have. Now, if these switches are part of an MPX, all bets are off. The only SLIDE prints were very inconclusive. Most focused on Elextric. He said HWH and hears the Motor running. So, that was our logic. I guess we see after he responds.
FORGOT to post. ALL of a sudden, his Driver’s came to life this morning. GREAT….retracted them. OPPS….now Passenger, which was working when he started post, is dead. My take….loose wires on Pump Solenoid. But who knows….if he responds….can ask questions….
THANK YOU
Scott and Colleen Miller3 hours ago, Keith H. said:I just wanted to take this opportunity th say THANKS to the Administrators and Moderators or Monacoers. It has taught me so much and I have merely scratched the surface. I still have so much to learn but its obvious, you guys have forgotten more than I will ever know!!
I echo that! Thanks for helping out the green horn!
2006 Dynasty - Front (Galley?) fan replacement , no power to wires. Help appreciated.
Tom CherryGreat. Unusual for that many fuses to pop.. read this. Great for understanding MPX. Next one is Frank’s PRIMER…
A Tale of Caution: Check your base plate!
Scotty HuttoEPILOGUE…
The base plate was repaired this morning by a metal fabrication shop in Lafayette, LA. The gentleman doing the welding was a pipe fitter, and it showed in the quality of his welds. After welding it, they fabricated a 3/8” plate and sistered it to the original with a continuous weld around the perimeter, then re-drilled the bolt holes. Finally they painted the whole shebang and had me headed back to the coach in a little under two hours.
The base plate was reinstalled by @TedZimmer, @stbfd08, Kevin Davis (Ted’s buddy), and myself. Debbie and I were on the road by 11:30 am this morning. After ~450 miles and 8+ hours (no, we don’t usually travel that far or that long; it was a family emergency), the baseplate performed just fine.
2005 Signature. HWH slide out hesitates, choppy
pwhittleRight. I saw the picture of the switches. Perhaps an early 2005 Signature, but not something I have seen before.
@rschley can you confirm your year/model for us? It makes a big difference on the advice we would offer.
Paul
Aladdin
Dr4FilmYour control pad has power so it appears that the Aladdin System is powered up. Your screen is what has been affected. Check the cables at the rear of the screen to make sure they are all seated firmly.
Others may have additional ideas.
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