2005 Signature. HWH slide out hesitates, choppy

[rschley]

Have parked down south for 6 months with slide extended. Time to leave and drivers side living room slide wont come in. Galley side and generator slides both work. 

I checked all bay doors and appear to be closed and switch is in. Checked owners manual and everything seems ok.  Any ideas where any fuses would be located relating to the slide? The Manual suggested checking for fuses.

Any ideas would really be appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

Ron

[joefromperry]

Can you hear the motor turning when you try to retract?

 

[rschley]

Yes I do. It has the same pitch and noise while pushing the in button as well as the out button.

[timaz996]

If the pump is running I would say the fuses are good. Their may be a hydraulic valve you can rap on with a wrench to see if it's stuck. 

[Tom Cherry]

First...  When you hear the MOTOR and WHINE....that means the Hydraulic MOTOR has started and is RUNNING.  There is NOT any "fuse" that controls any motor.  The slide switches go directly to the Slide Control Circuit.  Then to the INDIVIDUAL Solenoid that controls the EXTEND or RETRACT.  The fact that ALL OTHERS WORK....  NOT GOOD...  BUT....you can try slamming the Doors again.  Sometimes the switches are finickly They are "wired" so that they operate two separate solenoids.

Here is the print of the system. LOOK AT IT.  I can tell you that the circuit from the DS Door Switches goes to the J3-9 wire in the UPPER Left corner.  If you can find the switch on the FRONT bay....that is where the signal is.  Read the logic in the lower LEFT.  if ANY of the switches are BAD (as in the are making a circuit...like the would when OPEN), then it ain't gonna work.  All the switches need to be OFF...as in CLOSED.  That is a GROUND signal.  If you can find the FRONT box DOOR....then find the wire that comes from the switch....it should be BL WHITE....and (DOTTED line), then if you cut it (the one of the Plunger tip....and then there is NO wire going to the Circuit with the DIODE....then that eliminates the switches....  That would be my first suggestion.  IF that don't fix it...  SOLENOID.  You will have to locate the correct solenoid and tap it...

You SHOULD have prints in your manual.  If NOT...here is the set for your EXECUTIVE...  this assumes you don't have the LIGHTED Intellitec MPX switch pads and there are many switches (4, 6 or 8 ) on them.  A picture of your SLIDE switch would help...but I'm going with the most common.  There were a few later Execs that had the MPX....  

NOW....how computer literature you may be...  If you click on this on a PC, then there will be MANY files.  The files are oriented wrong.  In the lower right...there is a "ROTATION" circle with an arrow.  ROTATE so the read right side up. NOW...in the top RIGHT, there is a BUNCH of tools.  The top left one says  FIND TEXT OR TOOLS.  Type in SLIDE in that and click on the arrows.  You will see every print with the word SLIDE on them.

Bottom line....you have an issue with the solenoids.  

If you find the solenoids...you can tap on them.  If the slide has NOT started to MOVE and the MOTOR is running....there may be a wiring issue in the slide switch....or there may be a problem in the solenoid...

That's as much as I can help....except...there ain't I believe....a MAGIC BULLET....like a fuse...

SLIDE 2005 EXEC 38050044.pdf

[Frank McElroy]

1 hour ago, rschley said:

Have parked down south for 6 months with slide extended. Time to leave and drivers side living room slide wont come in. Galley side and generator slides both work. 

I checked all bay doors and appear to be closed and switch is in. Checked owners manual and everything seems ok.  Any ideas where any fuses would be located relating to the slide? The Manual suggested checking for fuses.

Any ideas would really be appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

Ron

It would be important to know if your 2005 has the Intellitec lighting system with slides operated by pressing keypads connected to Intellitec modules typically located in the bedroom closet cabinet. 

Assuming your coach does have this system then see pages 103-109 in the attached file.  One of those pages will fit the slide configuration of your coach. 

Then, while holding down the DS slide in keypad, see if the LED light that matches the DS retract solenoid wire lights up.  If it doesn't, check the associated fuse.  Likely you'll find the wire on Module A. 

It's important to know if the HWH slide relay control box is getting the proper signal to activate the slide retract solenoid.  If you do see a green LED light, then check the wiring on the slide solenoid valves located under the removable bin under the second interior step inside the coach.

 

[Tom Cherry]

Frank and I are on the same page.  I gave you the DRAWINGS for a NON - INTELLITEC system.  If you have two BLACK switches....one marked DRIVERS and the OTHER Passengers....then that is the most common.

Here is another print....for that system....if Intellitec (Lighted Key Pads....Frank has the "Con"...LOL...yes a Trekie).

OK....here is the DEAL...  AND THIS IS FOR THE OLDER and MORE COMMON NON INTELLITEC system

There are TWO switches.  They are interconnected as in the MAIN POWER for each comes to ONE...and then loops over to the OTHER.  You KNOW you have POWER coming in to the PASSENGER (as well as Genny).  They each "energize"  the RETRACT and EXTEND solenoids of the system.  This signal ALSO turns on the Hydraulic Pump Solenoid (High Current) to the Motor...

NOW...if we are on the same page....you hear the "motor" make the SAME sound as the Passenger....then the POWER to the SWITCHES is NOT the issue....if there was NO noise...If there was DEAD silence....switches.  Same deal if someone says "CLICKING".  There is ONLY one Pump Solenoid....since it runs two other slides....NOT A Pump Solenoid.....

SO....ODDS ARE... the Hydraulic pack is fine...and the switches....since you hear the MOTOR....

AS LONG as you hear the Pump Motor run.....then there is NOT A Bad SWITCH. NOR a pump solenoid....since there is only ONE solenoid for the PUMP.  This is an ELECTRIC (High Current).  The individual solenoids for Retract and Extend are for the Hydraulics...  It would be FUTILE TO SWAP the switches...Past that...  Probably the Solenoid.  The print shows each one.

NOW....that leaves ONE OTHER place.  There is an M32 DRIVERS SLIDE Plug or connector. Passenger is M-32A... FIND THAT HARNESS CONNECTOR.  Make sure it is tight or plugged in.  Plug and UNPLUG...

NOW...  I have NO IDEA where that is. 

BUT....logic and "gut" tells me...all is well with the switches...  otherwise...no NOISE.  BUT, NEITHER WORK.  What are the ODDS of BOTH Solenoids going bad.  BUT, if there is a LOOSE connection in the plug...maybe the control pins to the motor work...but NOT the solenoids. 

That's the extent of my help....Good Luck....

Slide switches 2005 Executive 38031336.pdf 2005 Executive Harness drawing 38040056.pdf

[rschley]

23 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

First...  When you hear the MOTOR and WHINE....that means the Hydraulic MOTOR has started and is RUNNING.  There is NOT any "fuse" that controls any motor.  The slide switches go directly to the Slide Control Circuit.  Then to the INDIVIDUAL Solenoid that controls the EXTEND or RETRACT.  The fact that ALL OTHERS WORK....  NOT GOOD...  BUT....you can try slamming the Doors again.  Sometimes the switches are finickly They are "wired" so that they operate two separate solenoids.

Here is the print of the system. LOOK AT IT.  I can tell you that the circuit from the DS Door Switches goes to the J3-9 wire in the UPPER Left corner.  If you can find the switch on the FRONT bay....that is where the signal is.  Read the logic in the lower LEFT.  if ANY of the switches are BAD (as in the are making a circuit...like the would when OPEN), then it ain't gonna work.  All the switches need to be OFF...as in CLOSED.  That is a GROUND signal.  If you can find the FRONT box DOOR....then find the wire that comes from the switch....it should be BL WHITE....and (DOTTED line), then if you cut it (the one of the Plunger tip....and then there is NO wire going to the Circuit with the DIODE....then that eliminates the switches....  That would be my first suggestion.  IF that don't fix it...  SOLENOID.  You will have to locate the correct solenoid and tap it...

You SHOULD have prints in your manual.  If NOT...here is the set for your EXECUTIVE...  this assumes you don't have the LIGHTED Intellitec MPX switch pads and there are many switches (4, 6 or 8 ) on them.  A picture of your SLIDE switch would help...but I'm going with the most common.  There were a few later Execs that had the MPX....  

NOW....how computer literature you may be...  If you click on this on a PC, then there will be MANY files.  The files are oriented wrong.  In the lower right...there is a "ROTATION" circle with an arrow.  ROTATE so the read right side up. NOW...in the top RIGHT, there is a BUNCH of tools.  The top left one says  FIND TEXT OR TOOLS.  Type in SLIDE in that and click on the arrows.  You will see every print with the word SLIDE on them.

Bottom line....you have an issue with the solenoids.  

If you find the solenoids...you can tap on them.  If the slide has NOT started to MOVE and the MOTOR is running....there may be a wiring issue in the slide switch....or there may be a problem in the solenoid...

That's as much as I can help....except...there ain't I believe....a MAGIC BULLET....like a fuse...

SLIDE 2005 EXEC 38050044.pdf 281.65 kB · 7 downloads

Hello Tom,

Thanks for the docs. I downloaded and will be able to locate the correct pages. I will take a close look.

I have "tapped" with a hammer on all 6 solenoids and had no success. I will dig further on the switches and consider Frank's suggestion also.

I have attached a few pics, in case you wanted to take a look.

Thanks for your help, as always.

Ron

[Tom Cherry]

PROGRESS.  As suspected....NO INTELLITEC MPX.  That is GOOD.  Right now, finding the connectors (M-32) would be MY next task..  IT MAY be only a solenoid issue.  What I would do....  

I'd put two paper clips (straightened or use needles and get into each of the solenoid plugs....or remove them.  Then USE the switches.  You SHOULD have voltage from the RETRACT switch to the RETRACT solenoid...and Vice Versa.

IF you have voltage, when you push the switch, momentarily....then it is a SOLENOID issue.  BUT, if you do NOT have voltage....then it is an upstream condition.  

The easy FIX....if you don't have voltage....  TEST the EXTEND.  There is NO LIMIT switch.  SO, you can check it.  Actually, the M32 Connector has the right PINS.  If you find it....you can test.  IF FOR SOME reason, no voltage....Then, get a "hot wire and a GROUND.  Hook up the ground.  The GROUND pin can probably be tested with a VOM on OHMS or Continuity.  SO...  Used the Hot Wire....have you partner retract the slide...and you put Voltage on the Solenoid...  IT HAS BEEN DONE BEFORE....TRUST ME.  Then the SLIDE is in....and you can deal with it later.

That's sort of my approach...  Getter to get it "temporarily" fixed now than fret and fiddle for a week.  UNFORTUNATELY....that slide is so heavy it would take a PRO Football Offensive Line to push it in or a big TRACTOR and a big piece of plywood.

Good Luck.... Keep up posted.  VERIFY voltage to the solenoids.  Don't be too hammer happy....The diagrams, I THINK, give you the codes...

[rschley]

Hello Tom,  

VOM checked input at the solenoid connector and have 7 volts dc coming in. Thinking that I can safely conclude a bad solenoid. Any thoughts on an HWH part number ? I will be calling the company tomorrow and Googling info yet tonight. 

Thanks for your help. 

Ron 

 

[David Pratt]

There are two solenoids available from HWH. RAP39015 is a large diameter solenoid is no longer available from HWH and was replaced by RAP0642.

The RAP0642 solenoid is the large diameter solenoid-2.25" diameter and Solenoid RAP90729 is the small diameter one 1.5" diameter.

Solenoid RAP90729 has been replaced by Solenoid RAP42632. RAP90729 has a nut to release hydraulic pressure and RAP42632 has a white lever. They are interchangeable.

The correct solenoid for your coach is RAP42632, the small diameter solenoid and it will have a white pressure release lever instead of a nut to release the hydraulic pressure.

The older solenoids all had the nuts to release the hydraulic pressure and HWH superseded them to the new solenoids with the levers. All the solenoids are interchangeable.

The RAP90729 Solenoid is still available thru the Internet. Just Google HWH and the part number on either solenoid and you will find many new solenoids for sale

[96 EVO]

Besides 'tapping' on the solenoids, did you feel them?

When I had similar issues, one of my solenoids was getting energized when it shouldn't be, and was hot to the touch!

[Tom Cherry]

14 hours ago, rschley said:

Hello Tom,  

VOM checked input at the solenoid connector and have 7 volts dc coming in. Thinking that I can safely conclude a bad solenoid. Any thoughts on an HWH part number ? I will be calling the company tomorrow and Googling info yet tonight. 

Thanks for your help. 

Ron 

 

OK.  Lets stop and chat. 

First….was the solenoid coil and pigtail hooked up.  If so and you measured 7 VDC, PROBABLY bad coil.  Now….if UNPLUGGED and you measured. OPPS!!  OTHER ISSUES.  I would do this.  Isolate and find each of the Passenger Slide solenoid slides.  THEN, measure one as it moves the slide….  Then measure the voltage on the pigtail to it….NOT PLUGGED in.  You will see anywhere from 12.7 VDC (no Shore) up to 13.1 or so (higher if the Magnum is in Bulk Charge).  That would be the NORMAL NO LOAD Voltage from the switch.  When the coil is hooked up, it will drop down….probably not that much.

BUT if the coil is shorted….and it is high resistance….it will drop.  You may have done that or know that, but some folks don’t…. 

The REASON….Monaco did some funky things.  I can’t find a good print on the “rest” of the system.  I can see the switches.  ON SOME HWH systems, there is a “BOX” (clear?) that the switches feed and there are two outputs.  One goes directly to the pump solenoid…..that starts the pump.  That happens on ANY of the switches.  The second is the CORRECT output to the solenoid.  If you have this and are only getting 7 VDC….an issue.

NOW….you need to check the NO LOAD (Pigtail unplugged) Voltage….if 12 VDC….great. BUT, comparison when you don’t have circuits is the next.  Compare load and NO LOAD on a working one.  THAT WAY YOU KNOW.  

I’d do that before I ordered parts.  If the OTHERS have 12 VDC Load (plugged in) and No Load….   YOU’RE on the right track.

Good Luck…

[David Pratt]

Tom-Ron

I attached a couple of wiring diagrams in case you may not have them.

HWH Hydraulic System Trouble Shooting.pdf HWH Hydraulic System.pdf

[joefromperry]

MODERATOR's EDIT.

This issue is almost exactly the same or related to the current topic.  SO, it has been merged

END OF EDIT

The driver side hydraulic slide on my 2003 Signature either does not move or moves jerkily (is that a word?) when trying to extend. It retracts more smoothly, but slowly. The passenger side slide works as it should. The reservoir is full. When I press the switch I can hear the motor run, but no movement. Sometimes, when slide is pushed from inside while trying to extend, is goes reluctantly.. Tapping on the solenoids (all of them, as I'm not sure which is the extend for that slide as I'm working alone) doesn't seem to do anything. The locks move freely.

Looking for suggestions here. Is there a way to see the rollers for possible damage, if it even has them? I have a replacement solenoid that should arrive today; I had replaced the extend one on the generator slide last year. Thank you for suggestions.

[Tom Cherry]

20 hours ago, David Pratt said:

Tom-Ron

I attached a couple of wiring diagrams in case you may not have them.

HWH Hydraulic System Trouble Shooting.pdf 57.65 kB · 1 download HWH Hydraulic System.pdf 68.47 kB · 2 downloads

OK...for those not following.  Ron and I and Frank McElroy have talked some.  The INTELLITEC MPX system has an HWH Control Box.

We THINK that the system here is the original one.  We can NOT find, in the 2005 Exec prints....a copy of the Driver's and Passenger's HWH slides...but this "optional" rear Bedroom Slide's is the same circuit that has been used before.

Frank and I talked.  The 2005 Exec drawings that we have are an abortion.  BUT, I DID find ONE print.  This is for a PAIR of Rear Slides.  SO....your have a PAIR of slides up front. I searched the PDF for HWH...NOPE.  Then SLIDES.  Found this one.

Here is the deal.  The Switches get power from a separate source.  As in, the lockout relay....which is also controlled or has lockouts for the DOORS or BAYS.

The incoming power for the switch goes up to the Pump Solenoid.  When the MOTOR runs... the same POWER to the MOTOR sends a signal, via a 15 Amp Fuse, to the Solenoids...  BUT, there is a SET of contacts on the Switch that control that....  THEN, the switch sends it out to the proper solenoid.

CONFUSING...YES...it has taken me years.  When you push the switch, either way, ONE side of the switch sends power (either way) to the Solenoid.  THEN the solenoid closes....and then the FUSED signal comes down to the Switch...on the OTHER SIDE or a separate set of contacts.  Depending on WHICH way (retract or extend), then the switch energized the proper solenoid.

MY THEORY....  The FUSE BLEW.  YES, the Switch will WORK...as it is powered from a separate source.

YES....the motor starts...as that is powered from the Lockout relay.  BUT, then the power to the Motor comes back down to the switch (other side) and then the direction or RET or EXT is controlled by the switch and it then energizes the correct solenoid.

OK...HOW TO TEST.  IF you measure the EXTEND Solenoid....then I'll wager (think) that you will NOT see power there either.  SO, in essence....the entire SLIDE is dead...It won't GO either way.  

I have NO IDEA, nor does Frank, as to where that fuse is.  I suspect it is at the PUMP SOLENOID.  IF I am RIGHT....then if you follow the power out of the SOLENOID to the motor...there should be THREE small wires as well.  Each one is for EACH slide.  There SHOULD be three FUSES...  One for EACH slide.  If the Driver's SLIDE doesn't work....then it would NOT MOVE either way.  Replace the FUSE...

NOW...NO JOY.  THEN, run a lamp cord line to the solenoid.  One side from the PUMP MOTOR side of the solenoid and a GROUND.  Hook at up to the Solenoid.  IF I am right...your slide will come in.  You will have to locate, in the future the fuse.

THE OTHER OPTION.  You have a BAD SWITCH.  ONE SIDE works.  The OTHER doesn't...  You COULD (take pictures and label), SWAP the switches...and that should make them work...

That's it...

rear bedroom hwh slide 2005 Dynasty and up.pdf

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, joefromperry said:

MODERATOR's EDIT.

This issue is almost exactly the same or related to the current topic.  SO, it has been merged

END OF EDIT

The driver side hydraulic slide on my 2003 Signature either does not move or moves jerkily (is that a word?) when trying to extend. It retracts more smoothly, but slowly. The passenger side slide works as it should. The reservoir is full. When I press the switch I can hear the motor run, but no movement. Sometimes, when slide is pushed from inside while trying to extend, is goes reluctantly.. Tapping on the solenoids (all of them, as I'm not sure which is the extend for that slide as I'm working alone) doesn't seem to do anything. The locks move freely.

Looking for suggestions here. Is there a way to see the rollers for possible damage, if it even has them? I have a replacement solenoid that should arrive today; I had replaced the extend one on the generator slide last year. Thank you for suggestions.

Joe,

Frank and I believe that your system is the same as the 2005 Exec...thus the combining or merging.

I would do the following.

Get a long piece of Lamp Cord...18 Gauge is fine.  Need some alligator clips or dual alligator lead clips.  On the Driver's side....hook up the lamp cord to either of the two solenoids.  Then, run that to your VOM and cycle the slides.  IF you get an instant 12 VDC on either direction....then the SIGNAL is OK.  IF you get an intermittent, then there is a problem...possibly incoming power to the switches (common from the Lockout) or a bad connection down stream.  If the fuse is good, you will get instant power.  IF IT is erratic...check the fuse.

NO JOY.  Then cycle the slides.  You SHOULD always HOLD IN the button, either way for a count of maybe 3 until you hear the pitch of the motor change.  Cycle this a few times either way to get any trapped air our of the system.

PAST THAT...  it may be mechanical.  The fact the the PUMP is running means that the switch power is OK....and if it continues to run...then if the solenoids are getting power....then you know electrically...all is well.  The odds or BOTH solenoids going bad?  LOW.  But, many have had issues.  There is ONE thing you can try.  IF you are getting a LOW VOLTAGE to the motor...then it WILL... I KNOW THIS...be UGLY.  IF you use your lamp cord and hook it up to the MOTOR LEADS...  Run the Passenger Slides.  Look at the MOTOR voltage.  NOW, do the same with the Driver's slides.  IF there is a Voltage drop...that means that the Passenger (usually shorter and lighter) is easier to MOVE.  

The WAY TO TEST THAT..  Use a Jumper Cable from the Chassis to the HOUSE.  SHORE ON.  THEN run the slides.  If the Voltage on the Drivers drops LESS, then you have an issue with the wiring to the MOTOR or you have weak House.  ONE THING....  Do some PM and clean the GROUNDS on BOTH banks behind the battery boxes (BOTH BATTERIES OFF).  Then go up front and find the GROUND side of the motor.  Clean the GROUND stud for that as well.  I had an issue....lower voltage...and it was a ground issue...  Cleaned all grounds.  WORKED.

Many causes...  you have to narrow down and eliminate each one.  IF you have a major difference in each side's voltage...then use your vehicle and jump GROUND to GROUND and then put your vehicle's positive to the INCOMING side of the Solenoid.  IF that speeds it up...wiring.  IF NOT...mechanical...

Good Luck...

[joefromperry]

14 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Joe,

Frank and I believe that your system is the same as the 2005 Exec...thus the combining or merging.

I would do the following.

Get a long piece of Lamp Cord...18 Gauge is fine.  Need some alligator clips or dual alligator lead clips.  On the Driver's side....hook up the lamp cord to either of the two solenoids.  Then, run that to your VOM and cycle the slides.  IF you get an instant 12 VDC on either direction....then the SIGNAL is OK.  IF you get an intermittent, then there is a problem...possibly incoming power to the switches (common from the Lockout) or a bad connection down stream.  If the fuse is good, you will get instant power.  IF IT is erratic...check the fuse.

NO JOY.  Then cycle the slides.  You SHOULD always HOLD IN the button, either way for a count of maybe 3 until you hear the pitch of the motor change.  Cycle this a few times either way to get any trapped air our of the system.

PAST THAT...  it may be mechanical.  The fact the the PUMP is running means that the switch power is OK....and if it continues to run...then if the solenoids are getting power....then you know electrically...all is well.  The odds or BOTH solenoids going bad?  LOW.  But, many have had issues.  There is ONE thing you can try.  IF you are getting a LOW VOLTAGE to the motor...then it WILL... I KNOW THIS...be UGLY.  IF you use your lamp cord and hook it up to the MOTOR LEADS...  Run the Passenger Slides.  Look at the MOTOR voltage.  NOW, do the same with the Driver's slides.  IF there is a Voltage drop...that means that the Passenger (usually shorter and lighter) is easier to MOVE.  

The WAY TO TEST THAT..  Use a Jumper Cable from the Chassis to the HOUSE.  SHORE ON.  THEN run the slides.  If the Voltage on the Drivers drops LESS, then you have an issue with the wiring to the MOTOR or you have weak House.  ONE THING....  Do some PM and clean the GROUNDS on BOTH banks behind the battery boxes (BOTH BATTERIES OFF).  Then go up front and find the GROUND side of the motor.  Clean the GROUND stud for that as well.  I had an issue....lower voltage...and it was a ground issue...  Cleaned all grounds.  WORKED.

Many causes...  you have to narrow down and eliminate each one.  IF you have a major difference in each side's voltage...then use your vehicle and jump GROUND to GROUND and then put your vehicle's positive to the INCOMING side of the Solenoid.  IF that speeds it up...wiring.  IF NOT...mechanical...

Good Luck...

Thank you very much, Tom. You've given me some things to look at, and I plan to do that today. I am curious, though, if my slideouts have rollers, and if so, can they be seen by me somehow. FWIW, the bottom of all my slide outs is in very good shape, with no warping, gouges, etc. (I probably just jinxed myself here.) Thanks again. I'll post what I find.

 

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, joefromperry said:

Thank you very much, Tom. You've given me some things to look at, and I plan to do that today. I am curious, though, if my slideouts have rollers, and if so, can they be seen by me somehow. FWIW, the bottom of all my slide outs is in very good shape, with no warping, gouges, etc. (I probably just jinxed myself here.) Thanks again. I'll post what I find.

 

Can’t help you there….but low voltages are a PITA.  They also damage and eventually kill motors.  When the voltage drops, then the motor says….gotta pull more amps….big time. Motors are rated in watts…VOLTS times AMP.  So a 960 Watt motor (FLA of 80) times 12 equals 960.  Drop to 10 VDC.  OPPS 96 AMPS….Lower….worse it gets.  My Lippert slide was rated at 65 FLA and Monaco goofed.  Removed the recommended 80 A and put in a 150.  When there was a loose motor lead and low volts….i pulled 140 A.  Motor was toasted.  Fixed connection.  Switched from House to Chassis….  But, it was costly.  $1,700 For new pump and valve unit.  Labor took that up to $2,500.  Be surprised how much you learn about phsics and circuits and electrical knowledge when it hits your pocket book.

@throgmartin is the slide guy. All my stuff was general based on folks problems over the years and helping offline troubleshooting…..  

[Ivan K]

Joe, if you are looking to inspect your rollers and it isn't a drop down slide, also assuming the kitchen and sofa is on that slide like ours.... two rollers are accessible under false kitchen cabinet floor and two more are mounted under the sofa but from under the floor, accessible from the wheel well and LPG tank compartment.  If your floor plan is different, it changes things. 

[joefromperry]

1 hour ago, Ivan K said:

Joe, if you are looking to inspect your rollers and it isn't a drop down slide, also assuming the kitchen and sofa is on that slide like ours.... two rollers are accessible under false kitchen cabinet floor and two more are mounted under the sofa but from under the floor, accessible from the wheel well and LPG tank compartment.  If your floor plan is different, it changes things. 

Thanks, Ivan. The slide I was having trouble with is the opposite side from the kitchen and couch. But, as I was just going to reply to Tom, after crawling under and disconnecting connectors and changing fuses, then cleaning/coating them all with DeoxiT, I ran that problem slide in and out three times. Go figure. I'll try again tomorrow to make sure I wasn't hallucinating.

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Can’t help you there….but low voltages are a PITA.  They also damage and eventually kill motors.  When the voltage drops, then the motor says….gotta pull more amps….big time. Motors are rated in watts…VOLTS times AMP.  So a 960 Watt motor (FLA of 80) times 12 equals 960.  Drop to 10 VDC.  OPPS 96 AMPS….Lower….worse it gets.  My Lippert slide was rated at 65 FLA and Monaco goofed.  Removed the recommended 80 A and put in a 150.  When there was a loose motor lead and low volts….i pulled 140 A.  Motor was toasted.  Fixed connection.  Switched from House to Chassis….  But, it was costly.  $1,700 For new pump and valve unit.  Labor took that up to $2,500.  Be surprised how much you learn about phsics and circuits and electrical knowledge when it hits your pocket book.

@throgmartin is the slide guy. All my stuff was general based on folks problems over the years and helping offline troubleshooting…..  

So, after crawling under and disconnecting connectors and changing fuses, then cleaning/coating them all with DeoxiT, I ran that problem slide in and out three times. Not sure why it suddenly. works;  all the connectors and fuses look fine. Chris Talin will be my next connection if problems reoccur. I'll see how it behaves tomorrow. Thanks for your help, Tom.

[Tom Cherry]

Joe,

Glad you are making progress.  Ron texted me earlier today.  Been outside recovering our screened porch from the “code 5 pollen season”.  Ron called a mobile tech.  Had sent him the print and went over circuit.  No feedback. Guess we just wait….

[pwhittle]

On 4/13/2024 at 4:14 PM, Tom Cherry said:

PROGRESS.  As suspected....NO INTELLITEC MPX.  That is GOOD. 

That is the first 2005 Signature I have seen without the Intellitec Multiplex.

The Executives and Dynasty’s also got Intellitec from 2006 onwards.

Paul

Edited April 17 by pwhittle

[Tom Cherry]

43 minutes ago, pwhittle said:

That is the first 2005 Signature I have seen without the Intellitec Multiplex.

The Executives and Dynasty’s also got Intellitec from 2006 onwards.

Paul

His pictures show manual switches.  Frank and I concluded no MPX.  That’s all the info I have.  Now, if these switches are part of an MPX, all bets are off. The only SLIDE prints were very inconclusive.  Most focused on Elextric.  He said HWH and hears the Motor running.  So, that was our logic.  I guess we see after he responds.

FORGOT to post.  ALL of a sudden, his Driver’s came to life this morning.  GREAT….retracted them.  OPPS….now Passenger, which was working when he started post, is dead.  My take….loose wires on Pump Solenoid.  But who knows….if he responds….can ask questions….

[pwhittle]

Right. I saw the picture of the switches. Perhaps an early 2005 Signature, but not something I have seen before.

@rschley can you confirm your year/model for us? It makes a big difference on the advice we would offer.

Paul