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Index
Discussions
Chuck Greco
Frank is a miracle worker. Donna and I were truly praying that we were able to save our Dynasty system before jumping off the cliff and re-wiring the dash. Frank was the answer to our prayers. Thank you Frank, and thanks to all that preceded our coach fixes that enabled Frank's talents to make up for Kongsberg/Eaton's lack of support to the system.
Chuck and Donna Greco
Tom Cherry
On 4/16/2024 at 11:18 AM, Kenster said:You would be amazed by what my field technicians can do with different applications. Anyway, it sounds like you have found a source for the module which will certainly be the easiest approach. Please follow up when you get it resolved.
Just to clear the air and set the record straight. Frank is the only person that has successfully repaired the K’B CCM switch modules. Frank took this on as a “personal” challenge maybe a year of so ago. He had helped some recover functions and started to understand the MPX system. The saga or story of how he was able to “download and reprogram or fix” any of the components” is documented in the topics. Do a search of KONGSBERG” and select TOPICS. He has posted the “gist” of his journey. He set up a “bench” line where he had a complete CCM system breadboarded together and had every function, as in the output signals to EVERY K’B controlled component, working. With that rig, he can diagnose any issue. He also was able to download and store every module’s program. Memory says there are at least 7 or 8 discrete chip programs for the system.
Then, he developed a method to remove the “chip”, which is surface mounted on each device….and replace with a new, virgin unprogrammed chip….with precision as the 28 (memory) contacts….7 per side…placement has to be within maybe 0.003”. Once replaced, then he has the ability to reprogram the chip with the OEM program….making it 100% functional. In some cases, I think he has also repaired other items or restored a faulty “trace”.
There are no other shops or individuals in the US that have accomplished this….much less have a smattering of his technology and expertise. It has been a “life saver” for our members. There is a 30+ page topic here of how a member bought a “salvaged” MH and had the moxie to make it quasi roadworthy…as in drive it home. The switches had been “tested” by another shop, only to discover that the original switches sent in, many of which were known good, were NOT returned and were replaced with defective ones. THUS, that shop is one that we now have concerns about.
The above is the gist of how this saga ended and Frank is the only person to persevere and develop the methodology as well as fabricate the jig for replacement and also “crack the code”….as in learned how, with many hours of experiments and also totally drew up a schematic of the boards…to get a copy of the programs.
This is a feat beyond all electronics comprehension unless one was there, via emails, texts, photos as well as many phone calls…..which I was fortunate enough to be involved.
As Paul Harvey would say…..now you know the REST OF THE STORY….
top flight
LNot sure if this is the correct forum. While driving recently my passenger side wiper arm broke at the point where it bolts on. Fortunately no damage to the coach. Coach is 2007 HR Vacationer XL, diesel pusher. Does anyone knowthe make of the arm and if it has a tapered or straight mounting hole? Thanks for an info.
Broken wiper arm
Duffer51
Here's a guide to the Wiper Technolgies wipers.
Broken wiper arm
Jim McGarvie
47 minutes ago, top flight said:LNot sure if this is the correct forum. While driving recently my passenger side wiper arm broke at the point where it bolts on. Fortunately no damage to the coach. Coach is 2007 HR Vacationer XL, diesel pusher. Does anyone knowthe make of the arm and if it has a tapered or straight mounting hole? Thanks for an info.
That looks just like the ones I just replaced on our coach last week! Does it have "Dyna made in Brazil" stamped on it? I got ours from Rome Truck Parts:
Broken wiper arm
Scotty Hutto
AM Equipment is the OEM for many Monacos. Check to see if their name is on any of the hardware under the hood.
Here is a thread on them:
RoadTripper2084
On 4/19/2024 at 3:52 PM, Martinvz said:We covered the rupture with a piece of paper towel and then wrapped it with magic tape (duck tape) to minimize fluid leaks.
I'm assuming you meant to slow leaks while there was zero pressure in the lines? I don't see how duct tape is going to keep a pressurized hydraulic line from losing all its fluid immediately?
Larry Laursen
I use other Apps, Mudflap and GasBuddy in addition to TSD because out west, Mavericks have prices that are better than Loves. Also, some smaller locations can be found with GasBuddy. Many Mavrick locations easily accommodate large RVs and Trucks.
diplomat don
22 hours ago, Hancoman said:Decided to go with a residential refrigerator going to be installed first week in May. I am guessing this is the original refrigerator so it lasted 23 years. If anyone is looking for parts let me know.
Tom
Tom do you have the 1200 4 door fridge? I see you are in the Seattle area and I have a friend in Shoreline who is looking for the big right door due to broken hinge mounting area and I might be interested in some interior items. Thanks Don.
diplomat don
1 hour ago, Scotty Hutto said:AM Equipment is the OEM. Here is a thread on them:
AM equipment didn't necessarily make all the wipers for Monaco even though they were just the road from Coburg. While at FMCA regional rallye last summer went to the factory with wiper arm for 2005 HR Imperial and they didn't manufacture for them that year. Very helpful but lady in the office took one look at the arm and said it wasn't one of theirs. Looked thru the computer and couldn't find who was but said they could probably make one but declined and kept looking. Thought having a one of built might be a little costly. If someone is going to try AM I would suggest sending picture and see if they were th manufacturer. Good luck to the original poster. Don
Georgia Mike
On 4/20/2024 at 8:30 AM, dandick66 said:I still look at Google Maps to see what the station looks like - is it at an intersection with red light, is the entrance on the right or left, etc.
A few years ago I pulled into a major truck stop and there wasn’t clear signage as to which way to go. I made a split second decision and went the wrong way into a dead end. I had to disconnect the car and had a heck of time getting out of there. From then on I always look at google maps to make sure I know the layout so it’s familiar to me when I get there.
Martinvz
Ken, your assumption is spot on. We covered the rupture to contain any leakage that could occur during retraction and while driving. Until the hose is replaced the hacks cannot be moved.
My apologies for not clearly stating that.
Tom Cherry
1 hour ago, diplomat don said:AM equipment didn't necessarily make all the wipers for Monaco even though they were just the road from Coburg. While at FMCA regional rallye last summer went to the factory with wiper arm for 2005 HR Imperial and they didn't manufacture for them that year. Very helpful but lady in the office took one look at the arm and said it wasn't one of theirs. Looked thru the computer and couldn't find who was but said they could probably make one but declined and kept looking. Thought having a one of built might be a little costly. If someone is going to try AM I would suggest sending picture and see if they were th manufacturer. Good luck to the original poster. Don
Yes,
but if you use WIPER ARM in search box then click on EVERWHERE, you will get all the posts. Over the years, these posts have a link or a name to every vendor since 2000 or so and also links to aftermarket distributors that can readily identify the OEM vendor and have parts or have sourced replacement parts for those vendors that may no longer be in business.
AM is usually the first GOTO as they dominated the wiper suppliers.
Download the parts list. It has at least 3 or more.
Diesel Equipment (add wiper blades when you google) has been the BEST OTHER source. They understand the systems and have arms that are better than OEM’S The AM arms are a bit on the puny side for the 32” blades. I have new ones and run 28” and they work great. The area not cleaned is for the panorama stuff you see in photos and not critical to driving. The 28” blades also will make the motor and linkage last longer… way less drag so the motor is not stressed to max force.
BTW…I used to visit the ANCO plant and talked to the engineers. ANCO made all the arms and blades for every OEM AM unit. AM LATER outsourced them when we closed the ANCO plant…
saflyer
19 hours ago, cbr046 said:If you "get directions" through the TSD app it switches over to Google Maps. OK, It's a 2nd app but you don't have to hunt for it. Then just do satellite view.
- bob
Thanks. Didn’t know that. Google’s street view is very useful for Rivers, also.
Paul J A
Windshield Wiper Parts
Here are a few sources.
FDCA Fan Controller Availability
robertmrankin6612
Thanks Bill for the 7V. WAO fan speed info on your rig.
I did not have anything connected to the pwm controller's output, I was trying to see if the PWM controller's output would track the input voltage, and I have concluded that it does.
Your 7V. WAO fan speed has me completely rethinking this experiment, however.
The evolution of fan cooled radiators has gone from direct engine driven fan, to totally variable fan speed based on input from the engine ECM, presumably in search of better fuel mileage. It seems that depending on the application and the year of manufacture, our ISL's fans have had an on/off wax valve; an off, 2 speed on; and a fully variable fan, and there are probably others. ALL these solutions will cool our motors if properly sized and installed. I'm not sure exacdtly what my 05 Dynasty has, but it has the SD controller and I can watch the temps on the aladdin and can tell that my thermostat opens at 180, the fan goes to high at 202, and cuts back at 199, and can cycle quite often, or can stay WAO.
Now Happycarz, Bill, and Mark have me diving down this rabbit hole 🙂 (Too curious a mind and too much time on my hands......?) Given that happycarz's rig has direct input from the ECM to the pintal valve, that is kinda my goal, BUT I REALLY want to protect my ECM. I wonder if I'm not really overthinking this and should just try putting a reverse blocking diode and a 1/2 amp fuse in the ECM line and connect it to the pintal valve. I'll try a test to see if I can find the actual current on the ECM wires before I forge ahead...............
Sorry for the diatribe......
Cheers Bob
Jim Dinwiddie
I'm not getting water to the refrigerator, all valves on the, manifold appear to be open, but the label telling what each valve controls is missing. Can someone with a 2007 DYNASTY take a picture of valve layout? TIA
Jcparmley
Hello All
I have a 1997 Monaco Executive that I am having trouble with the levelers. I purchased the RV over a year ago and have been slowly remodeling the inside. The previous owner said he didn't mess with the leveler system and that the "auto" has never really worked so he only used it manually. When we first got the coach, the control panel wouldn't turn on unless you gave it a wack with your hand. So my assumption was it was a loose connection. After a while it wouldn't turn on at all. So just in case it was the power switch I ordered a new one from RVA. I removed the the control panel that was in the armrest of the driver and attempted to find the loose connection. I couldn't find one. I checked with my volt meter and the panel isn't getting 12 volts. So I checked the 15 amp fuse in the front compartment and it looks good, and has continuity between the posts. So I looked up at the Leveler Safety Relay and noticed that someone had "rigged" with the relay and it was not wired as it came from the factory.
So, I pulled out my wiring diagram and this is where things got interesting. Ay previous owner, or mechanic has messed with this relay and I am not even sure how I can test it. This is what my wiring diagram now shows.
So if you follow the diagram I should have brown wire going from the "Start Solenoid"
Question #1: Should this brown wire from the Start Solenoid have 12 volts?
That brown wire goes to a the "Neutral Safety" Relay. Out of the Neutral relay is a brown wire going to a connector in the center console labeled M12B
Question #2: Should the brown wire from the Neutral Safety Relay to the connector M12B have 12 volts? It currently does NOT have 12 volts.
From connector M12B another brown wire goes to the "Leveler Safety Relay" in the front electrical panel under the driver seat. This is where my wiring diagram turns into a mess to translate.
Can anyone answer the first two questions?
And, can anyone help me make sense of this Leveler Safety Relay?
Dash air compressor
Endeavor04
Hi all, first time posting and new comer here. I have searched to see if this was a topic already and have not found any information. We bought a 2004 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 38pst in December, and are loving it. We did buy it knowing the dash ac compressor was locked up(or the clutch.) I have been looking for a replacement with no luck. It is a Uniola UP-150. I have found some on ebay as used items and so sketchy ones saying they are replacements. Looking threw other forums I have learned that replacing the dryer is highly recommended. If anyone can help me find these parts or has had luck with replacement with out the dealership doing the replacement. Thanks in advance!
Air Conditioning replacements help request
Brad Loehr
Lots of great information on this topic. Thanks for everyone that contributed.
I have a 2005 HR Endeavor 40DST with a Duotherm 13.5k in the rear (original) and a Penguin 1 13.5k in the front (replaced by original owner 8 years ago.
I have a few questions. Instead of going with Dometic is there better brands that are more reliable?
Has anyone tried Coleman, Advent Air, or others? Are the Penguin 2 ACs the best and most reliable from Dometic?
Brad Loehr
Lots of great information on this topic. Thanks for everyone that contributed.
I have a 2005 HR Endeavor 40DST with a Duotherm 13.5k in the rear (original) and a Penguin 1 13.5k in the front (replaced by original owner 8 years ago.
I have a few questions. Instead of going with Dometic is there better brands that are more reliable?
How much modification is needed to fit the Blizzard NXT to the Penguin mounting pattern and duct work? Any pictures or details?
What is the best unit from Dometic? Penguin 2 or Blizzard NXT or ? I have read in a few forums to stay away from the Brisks because they are not reliable.
Has anyone tried Coleman, Advent Air, or others? Is this an option. It seems like Coleman has decent AC units
Tom Cherry
you have to make a call. You have the standard Duo Therm Multiplexed control system. If you don’t put in Penguins then you cannot control your furnace. You will have to install a separate thermostat, one for each furnace….or one if you only have one. You will need to find units that have remote thermostats (wireless or BT).
There is not any other system that will work with the existing Duo Therm MPX control system.
A few folks have installed Houghtons. But you have to keep the old thermostat and the control units from the Duo Therm to make the Furnace functional…but the Houghton AC units will not work with the Duo Therm thermostat.
A few folks have totally rewired their MH and used Colemans. They had to run a 5 or 7 wire cable to the Roof top unit. Wiremold or figure out how to snake the wire up the wall or use exterior wiremold to the rooftop likewise run cables to the furnaces.
That’s the basics. Monaco chose the single or double thermostat, in some cases, Duo Therm system. It only required a data cable (think phone line….with different connections) from the thermostat. You ran 120 VAC and 12 VDC to the units. Easier install. Also, you had one simple system and the thermostat controlled many zones. It was a selling point or a “high end feature in a lower end” MH.
There are probably 10 different topics that have been posted here. All the same….keep the central features and install new Dometic’s or go with other brands and run wires or snake them or run wire mold up and down the walls and on the ceilings.
Put Duo Therm in the search box…..click on everywhere….chose topics. Probably 25 plus pages….
Please do the research…it is all here. Thanks.
Tom Cherry
14 minutes ago, Brad Loehr said:Lots of great information on this topic. Thanks for everyone that contributed.
I have a 2005 HR Endeavor 40DST with a Duotherm 13.5k in the rear (original) and a Penguin 1 13.5k in the front (replaced by original owner 8 years ago.
I have a few questions. Instead of going with Dometic is there better brands that are more reliable?
How much modification is needed to fit the Blizzard NXT to the Penguin mounting pattern and duct work? Any pictures or details?
What is the best unit from Dometic? Penguin 2 or Blizzard NXT or ? I have read in a few forums to stay away from the Brisks because they are not reliable.
Has anyone tried Coleman, Advent Air, or others? Is this an option. It seems like Coleman has decent AC units
This was a double post….as in a duplicate post, copied, and then posted to two different, but similar or exactly the same, older, topics….
Here the the response….so it answers, on both topic, your questions….
YOU have to make a call. You have the standard Duo Therm Multiplexed control system. If you don’t put in Penguins then you cannot control your furnace. You will have to install a separate thermostat, one for each furnace….or one if you only have one. You will need to find units that have remote thermostats (wireless or BT).
There is not any other system that will work with the existing Duo Therm MPX control system.
A few folks have installed Houghtons. But you have to keep the old thermostat and the control units from the Duo Therm to make the Furnace functional…but the Houghton AC units will not work with the Duo Therm thermostat.
A few folks have totally rewired their MH and used Colemans. They had to run a 5 or 7 wire cable to the Roof top unit. Wiremold or figure out how to snake the wire up the wall or use exterior wiremold to the rooftop likewise run cables to the furnaces.
That’s the basics. Monaco chose the single or double thermostat, in some cases, Duo Therm system. It only required a data cable (think phone line….with different connections) from the thermostat. You ran 120 VAC and 12 VDC to the units. Easier install. Also, you had one simple system and the thermostat controlled many zones. It was a selling point or a “high end feature in a lower end” MH.
There are probably 10 different topics that have been posted here. All the same….keep the central features and install new Dometic’s or go with other brands and run wires or snake them or run wire mold up and down the walls and on the ceilings.
Put Duo Therm in the search box…..click on everywhere….chose topics. Probably 25 plus pages….
Please do the research on this…lit is all in here….
Thanks….
Brad Loehr
2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:There is not any other system that will work with the existing Duo Therm MPX control system.
A few folks have installed Houghtons. But you have to keep the old thermostat and the control units from the Duo Therm to make the Furnace functional…but the Houghton AC units will not work with the Duo Therm thermostat.
Thanks for the info Tom, I have been reading and researching like crazy. So from what you are saying is that I am stuck with Dometic because of control system having a different data link control system than other brands. I am not really interested in snaking and running the 7 wire thermostat cables to each unit. I also want to keep both furnaces under one control with the AC units.
So that being said, has anyone had any experience with the different Dometic models? Which ones have been more reliable? From reading some of the forums, the Brisk has refrigerant loss issues. What about the Blizzard NXT or new Penguins?
Malewis11
Hello,
I have attached some interesting information for the SD assembly regarding the output voltage and operational theory. It seems to confirm that the SD is looking for a PWM signal at a duty cycle from the ECM that is proportional to the engine cooling needs therefore the fan speed requirements. The SD is capable of additional thermistor and aux inputs but mine is limited to one ECM input.
For me this is boiling down to what the actual function of the SD electronic module is. It appears that our rigs are not utilizing or needing the full functionality or multiple inputs of the SD electronic module. It probably does not use the ECM signal/voltage to drive the valve but Bill’s setup appears to show that it is capable of doing so. The SD’s is programmable, so it likely has the ability to adjust output based on aux inputs (overrides) as well as keep the fan running even when the ECM provides 12 volts, which is precisely what the aftermarket dc motor controller does. What ECM voltage says go WAO? This is possibly 0 or a variable loaded into the SD by Monaco long ago based on engine temps. Personally, I’d rather go WAO at 7 volt than overheat. I’d recommend as much electrical isolation for the ECM as possible.
If this is in fact accurate, there has been a lot of wasted money and time rebuilding and buying new SD controllers.
Mark L
Dometic Penguin ii replacement ac/hp
Brad Loehr
On 4/17/2024 at 7:29 PM, klcdenver said:I replaced my front unit with the Recpro Houghton. I have ran it for 1 summer and 1 winter. It is much quieter than a penguin and the heat pump works down into the 28 degree range. Very easy to install also.
Was the Recpros an easy conversion from the Penguins? Any fitment issues during installation?
How did the thermostat wire up? Did you upgrade the thermostat or keep the old thermostat and the control modules from the Duo Therm AC units?
Brad Loehr
On 3/1/2023 at 1:25 PM, klcdenver said:I have finished the installation of the Houghton. In the black box attached is only 12 volt wiring and temp sensor and the RJ 11 communication lines. I bought the box off Amazon. I had to modify the return air and forced conditioned air separator, picture attached. I had to make the attach bolts out of some all thread rod (#8x1.25). I made them 9” long and just welded a nut on one end to have a hex head.
Now for the good part. My old penguin 13,500 BTU with a wacko silencer was 58 decibels. It would heat to 106 degrees and cool to 39 degrees in the duck work. The Houghton is 53 decibels. It heats to 112 degrees and cools to 33 degrees in the duct work. I took the temps in the same place for both. It is much quieter on the outside versus the penguin's also.
Thanks for all the info. I will be going with the Recpro replacements for both my old AC units and keep the 5 button CCC for the 2 furnaces.
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