Monacoers Daily News

Which models have the Kongsberg Chassis setup? 

The screws were probably put into some sort of structure and rusted.  When I removed a long section of belt molding a lot of the screws broke off.  I didn't bother trying to remove, just drilled new holes.  

Might try taking it off and see if there are any part numbers or markings. 

Kongsberg started with 2008 Signature and mid 2008 Dynasty.  These systems will only have one large circuit board.  Since OP mentioned boards, he would have a conventional system.

We are leaving Port Aransas TX after completion of 2 months spent in the oil patch as gate guards in some very dusty locations. Our coach needs a thorough wash job and wheel polish. Traveling from Port Aransas to Clayton NC then onto Cambridge, OH. Anyone have a favorite location to have a coach washed at along those routes?

27 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

The screws were probably put into some sort of structure and rusted.  When I removed a long section of belt molding a lot of the screws broke off.  I didn't bother trying to remove, just drilled new holes.  

Yeah if i could do that i would. These are the lower mount for the door awning, so i think they need to be where they are now. I ordered some marine ex epoxy putty from West Marine, so when it comes i will drill below the current holes and tap them down to that hole and hopefully out, then repair the holes with the putty and drill new holes. On the side marker light i was talking about, i thought that was a metal panel which would have explained the rusted in issue, but best i could tell it was just a fiberglass panel as i didn't see anything metal on the inside of it. I think a lot of the problem is the shaft of the screws rusted to near through and any torque breaks it. Now i wish i had a master list of screw size for all the exterior screws and get them, then go all around and replace them all with new ones. 

16 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Which models have the Kongsberg Chassis setup? 

First, lets set the record straight.  You are “mixing” things and its better for those reading this to understand the whole story.  There is, I think, a file or two that goes into detail.

Circa 2005 or so, Monaco “updated” ALL DYNASTY and above to TWO DIFFERENT “Intellitec” systems.

The first….and which Frank alluded to, as well as the OP’s question is in the Front and Rear RUN BAYS.  Don’t hold me to the numbers, someone needs to count….and it IS on the drawings,  There are about 13 or so Front RUN Bay boards.  There are about 8 or so Rear RUN bay boards.  These are the BOARDS IN QUESTION.

@Frank McElroy and @pwhittle are members that can, at a much lower “tip”, analyze and replace chips and reprogram these.  In some cases, they also can “fix” a board that has a shorted out (OPEN) copper trace or the strips on the bottom.  There is one other source, but their prices and credibility and quality has been called into question by some members as well as field techs who diagnose and isolate a board and ship it to them.  We are FORTUNATE to have this resource here.

Continuing…..the “upgrade” circa 2005/6 was “sporadic” at best.  We have owners of 2005 Executives that have the ORIGINAL, Non Intellitec MH as wells as owners that DO.  Supposedly, the higher ends were done first…then down the food chain. The RULE of thumb was that the Dynasty was a 2006 upgrade. BUT Monaco published TWO different manuals in 2005 for them.  BOTTOM LINE…we have to ASK or have a member post pictures of the Front or Rear to determine which system….and, unfortunately, many responses or advice from the NON Intellitec owners is given to Intellitec owners…. Then the member with the problem is totally confused and frustrated as the component or circuit or whatever they are told to find….AIN’T IN THEIR MH.

Moving along.  The INTERIOR Intellitec Multiplexed Lighting and lighted key pads and Central Processing Unit and the “output modules” were also included….

The circuit boards in question here are NOT MULTIPLEXED….they are funky with all sorts of lights and test buttons and such….but they send out conventional Analog  (12 VDC signals).  OK….take a deep breath…..it gets WORSE.

NOW…. You mentioned the infamous KONGSBERG CCM (Chassis Control Modules)that  are in the FRONT RUN BAY.  That eliminates the Intellitec boards….which is the issue.  HOWVER..all but ONE of the Rear Intellitec Boards was also replaced.  It is MY UNDERSTANDING, that only the #6 Intellitec Board in the REAR RUN bay was a “HOLDOVER” in the NEW (and improved?) CCM System.  That, BTW, runs or controls the BIRD charging system and Boost and such…

NOW….again, the inconsistency of Monaco comes out.  SOME of the Dynasty in 2008, had a K’B CCM….a rare few….but out there.  Supposedly, the SIG’s in 2008 WERE CCM.  NOT ALWAYS TRUE.  BUT, supposedly….all as in EVERY ONE of the 2009 models was CCM.  Now….is this in concrete?  NOPE.  Sometimes an older model with “fall out” or be in a transition year and get “a next year model number”.  So, we always ASK for photos to verify folk’s issues before we delve in….and hope that other contributing members understand the nuances …but unfortunately, many folks spend time hunting for something that is NOT on their MH, due to an inaccurate post.

Sorry for the length….but sometimes a simple question has to be answered with “IT DEPENDS”…..Frank just posted with a comment….mine matches his and I just went into more detail and background….as this post can be used for information….

When leaving Port "A", I always stop at the self serve car wash on cut-off road before I head to the ferry.  They have an outside bay on the end for oversize vehicles.  It lets me wash of the dust and salt before I hit the road.  I also get down and wash as much of the under carriage as I can reach.  It is messy and I have to change clothes before proceeding, but the rust damage to the under carriage is nasty and I try to minimize it.

2 hours ago, dereeves said:

So yesterday i was putting the over door awning back up and the left side was hard to get loose. While getting it loose the screw broke which holds the lower arm to the body. The bottom screw was already missing. Anyways, when i was changing the clearance lights out, the marker light above the drivers side rear wheels screws both broke. Those i was able to get a small pipe wrench on the inside part of the screw and turn it out enough to get it with the wrench on the outside. These two screws for the door cover i cannot get to the inside. How do you guys get these out? When the marker light screw broke, i tried drilling it, using broken screw extractors which neither worked. I was simply amazed at how hard the screws in the fiberglass held. In anycase, anyone have any super secret ideas on how to get these out? Thanks in advance.

From a person that was the Chief Engineer for a Fastener company a d we designed and developed a variety of the infamous “Drill Scews” most likely used.  Also this applies to some high performance self tapping screws.  The material used in common bolts (grade 2) is garden variety.  The heat treatment is simple.

When you get into a “Tapping” screw, where the threads form or make threads in the material, there is a different grade used and the heat treatment is different.  The case or the exterior portion of the screw that is “specially hardened” is around 0.008” (EIGHT thousand’s of an inch).  The drill points are more…

Thus, the exterior deforms the material that the screw is driven into.  BUT….that Screw is BRITTLE as in would snap.  The second part of the process is to draw down or decrease the brittleness in the interior or core. There is a second furnace used.  It has a lower temperature than the first “hardening” furnace.  The core is the. More ductile or is not brittle.  

BUT that sucker ain’t like a un hardened or soft bolt….NOW SS bolts are harder.  So, you need a special CARBIDE TIPPED bit.  A titanium coated bit, usually, ain’t gonna do squat. NOW….you have to go to a larger size screw….if you drill it out, most folks use a larger bit.  OPPS…now the hole is too large.  

Many folks here have great experience.  If you use a smaller carbide tipped drill and a lubricant….you MIGHT drill it and then put an “Easy Out” in it…

There are blind, threaded flat rivets that you can buy on Amazon and they work great.  Folks have used SS Pop Rivets.  Just be aware, drilling out an Aluminum pop rivet is child’s play compared to a comparable sized SS one.
 

1 hour ago, Steve P said:

Left side of the pic. It's cracked, connects by 2 wires (a blue and a white). Goes to a bundle and out of sight.  Thought I'd check here before making a 30 mile trip to the nearest dealer. 

Ask….and ye shall receive.  There are all sorts of “thingies” that the car boys are putting on.  There is USUALLY a high current fuse on the positive.  I always carry a spare in every vehicle.

NOW….this device is basically….a sophisticated “Battery temp sensor” with a “amp meter” probe….and a “bonus”….Voltage sensor. Critcial to the voltage regulation of your alternator…..it goes bad….you COOK your battery….

You can google it and there is a LOT of info, some wrong…LOL, about it and what all it does….

I have towed 3 different CRV's as dinghy's.  Both 2wd and AWD versions are flat towable.  The critical part is that you MUST follow the transmission shift pattern preparations for towing (With engine running, brake on, shift into Drive, wait 5 seconds, shift to Neutral and turn engine off, leaving steering wheel unlocked.  If you shift into Neutral from Reverse, it will leave the clutch pack engaged and you will damage the transmission if towed.)  I love my CRV's.  Good luck with yours.  I am sad that the newer ones (after 2014) are no longer towable.

Richard   

Understanding BigBoy and control board....

Just curious if my system's operation is normal.  While the Big Boy engages and charges from shore or alternator (BB internal contacts cleaned periodically), I have noticed that after a couple of days on shore power and with the Magnum float charging at basically 0 amps and 12.6 volts the board will decide to disengage the Big Boy causing the chassis to slowly discharge over time (days) ... 12.4-12.3v at the chassis battery posts.  I've verified the house batteries at 12.6v at the battery posts. When I press the boost switch the BigBoy will click back on (temporarily) and the two banks are connected and charge together.  If I kill the shore power breaker, wait a couple minutes, then turn the main shore breaker back on the Magnum cycles into absorb charge around 13.3-13.4v and the BigBoy re-engages charging the chassis back.  If I'm parked for days on shore power this happens and the chassis will slowly drop.  Is the board dropping because the float voltage is too low and I should set a custom setting to raise the float voltage a little?  Otherwise every few days I just kill the shore power for a bit and top off the chassis. I have Lifeline AGMs and AGM-2 setting on the Magnum 2812.  BTW , it appears the AGM (1) setting floats at 12.4v vs the AGM-2 setting 12.6v.  A custom profile could be implemented.

Thanks

54 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

First, lets set the record straight.  You are “mixing” things and its better for those reading this to understand the whole story.  There is, I think, a file or two that goes into detail.

Circa 2005 or so, Monaco “updated” ALL DYNASTY and above to TWO DIFFERENT “Intellitec” systems.

The first….and which Frank alluded to, as well as the OP’s question is in the Front and Rear RUN BAYS.  Don’t hold me to the numbers, someone needs to count….and it IS on the drawings,  There are about 13 or so Front RUN Bay boards.  There are about 8 or so Rear RUN bay boards.  These are the BOARDS IN QUESTION.

@Frank McElroy and @pwhittle are members that can, at a much lower “tip”, analyze and replace chips and reprogram these.  In some cases, they also can “fix” a board that has a shorted out (OPEN) copper trace or the strips on the bottom.  There is one other source, but their prices and credibility and quality has been called into question by some members as well as field techs who diagnose and isolate a board and ship it to them.  We are FORTUNATE to have this resource here.

Continuing…..the “upgrade” circa 2005/6 was “sporadic” at best.  We have owners of 2005 Executives that have the ORIGINAL, Non Intellitec MH as wells as owners that DO.  Supposedly, the higher ends were done first…then down the food chain. The RULE of thumb was that the Dynasty was a 2006 upgrade. BUT Monaco published TWO different manuals in 2005 for them.  BOTTOM LINE…we have to ASK or have a member post pictures of the Front or Rear to determine which system….and, unfortunately, many responses or advice from the NON Intellitec owners is given to Intellitec owners…. Then the member with the problem is totally confused and frustrated as the component or circuit or whatever they are told to find….AIN’T IN THEIR MH.

Moving along.  The INTERIOR Intellitec Multiplexed Lighting and lighted key pads and Central Processing Unit and the “output modules” were also included….

The circuit boards in question here are NOT MULTIPLEXED….they are funky with all sorts of lights and test buttons and such….but they send out conventional Analog  (12 VDC signals).  OK….take a deep breath…..it gets WORSE.

NOW…. You mentioned the infamous KONGSBERG CCM (Chassis Control Modules)that  are in the FRONT RUN BAY.  That eliminates the Intellitec boards….which is the issue.  HOWVER..all but ONE of the Rear Intellitec Boards was also replaced.  It is MY UNDERSTANDING, that only the #6 Intellitec Board in the REAR RUN bay was a “HOLDOVER” in the NEW (and improved?) CCM System.  That, BTW, runs or controls the BIRD charging system and Boost and such…

NOW….again, the inconsistency of Monaco comes out.  SOME of the Dynasty in 2008, had a K’B CCM….a rare few….but out there.  Supposedly, the SIG’s in 2008 WERE CCM.  NOT ALWAYS TRUE.  BUT, supposedly….all as in EVERY ONE of the 2009 models was CCM.  Now….is this in concrete?  NOPE.  Sometimes an older model with “fall out” or be in a transition year and get “a next year model number”.  So, we always ASK for photos to verify folk’s issues before we delve in….and hope that other contributing members understand the nuances …but unfortunately, many folks spend time hunting for something that is NOT on their MH, due to an inaccurate post.

Sorry for the length….but sometimes a simple question has to be answered with “IT DEPENDS”…..Frank just posted with a comment….mine matches his and I just went into more detail and background….as this post can be used for information….

 

Perfect, I would freak if made my mind on a coach only to find out I had a potential brick in my electrical 

My 2008 Monico Dynasty Yorkshire is RoadMaster RR10S Chassis, nothing I see says anything about "KONGSBERG"

Yes, I am not seeing any networking items in front left bay (all networking circuits appear to be up in the coach.  Maybe a J1939 in there somewhere, but not obvious if it is.  Agreed, should be mostly analog Volts, Amps, Relays, in this area.  Some mention "junkyards".  I will search for good ones on Monacoers.  Any suggestions for best junkyards for electrical stuff?

14 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Don't know, but I've read of owners using different devices wedged under the switch!

Can't recall ever using the boost switch myself, but, I keep my batteries reasonably fresh!

BEN….a definite NO NO.  Read the manual for your system.  We have the NON FULL 12 VDC Big Boy.  There is a device on the swing out door in the rear run bay (the one with the knobs).  It is a Intellitec BIRD Diesel2 module.  It senses the voltages on each bank.  It then controls the Big Boy.  It sends out “Pulsed” voltage.  Measure it….it will be 3 - 4 VDC.  But, if you put it on a “scope”, it is a PURE 12VDC.  But the length of the Pulse or the time ON is only 1/3 or about 3 - 4 VOLTS, averaged.

BUT, if you push or HOLD the BOOST switch, there is a signal sent to the relay that drives the Big Boy and you get a FULL 12 VDC. Hold that down for maybe 5 minutes or shorter….Heat builds UP.  Fries the coil.  

The specs on the Big Boy list CONTINUOUS current or full 12 VDC for maybe 30 seconds….don’t hold me to a precise number….the manual warns you.  BUT, when the BIRD D2 Module kicks in….INSTANTANEOUS 12 VDC….that locks in the coil.  Then after, say a second or so, it drops back and then the control circuit is the Pulsed voltage.

You do NOT have the board (#6) on a 05/06 Dynasty and above that this post is about.  

NOW…..there were….on older models…..a 100A Big Boy.  OK to have full 12 VDC.  There were other “types”, misidentified as a “Big Boy” (Trombetta and White Rogers and others) that WERE full 12 VDC rated.  

The PURPOSE of this response is to WARN FOLKS.  Never EVER put a stupid Golf TEE under a later model Monaco boost switch……you’ll damage the 200A Big Boy and/or “COOK” your Chassis Battery….when you are ON AC or GENNY.

Thanks for bringing it up so we can get the word out….AGAIN….
 

5 minutes ago, amphi_sc said:

Understanding BigBoy and control board....

Just curious if my system's operation is normal.  While the Big Boy engages and charges from shore or alternator (BB internal contacts cleaned periodically), I have noticed that after a couple of days on shore power and with the Magnum float charging at basically 0 amps and 12.6 volts the board will decide to disengage the Big Boy causing the chassis to slowly discharge over time (days) ... 12.4-12.3v at the chassis battery posts.  I've verified the house batteries at 12.6v at the battery posts. When I press the boost switch the BigBoy will click back on (temporarily) and the two banks are connected and charge together.  If I kill the shore power breaker, wait a couple minutes, then turn the main shore breaker back on the Magnum cycles into absorb charge around 13.3-13.4v and the BigBoy re-engages charging the chassis back.  If I'm parked for days on shore power this happens and the chassis will slowly drop.  Is the board dropping because the float voltage is too low and I should set a custom setting to raise the float voltage a little?  Otherwise every few days I just kill the shore power for a bit and top off the chassis. I have Lifeline AGMs and AGM-2 setting on the Magnum 2812.  BTW , it appears the AGM (1) setting floats at 12.4v vs the AGM-2 setting 12.6v.  A custom profile could be implemented.

Thanks

Sounds like you may have a charging problem.

12.6V isn't float charging, and is too low for the Big Boy to engage.

13.3-13.4V is float charge voltage. Absorb charging should be >14.0V!

This article is worth a thousand words.  It has all the info including pictures that you need to distinguish between a conventional and Kongsberg system.

Today these once obsolete dash switch modules used in the Kongsberg system can now be repaired.

4 minutes ago, amphi_sc said:

Understanding BigBoy and control board....

Just curious if my system's operation is normal.  While the Big Boy engages and charges from shore or alternator (BB internal contacts cleaned periodically), I have noticed that after a couple of days on shore power and with the Magnum float charging at basically 0 amps and 12.6 volts the board will decide to disengage the Big Boy causing the chassis to slowly discharge over time (days) ... 12.4-12.3v at the chassis battery posts.  I've verified the house batteries at 12.6v at the battery posts. When I press the boost switch the BigBoy will click back on (temporarily) and the two banks are connected and charge together.  If I kill the shore power breaker, wait a couple minutes, then turn the main shore breaker back on the Magnum cycles into absorb charge around 13.3-13.4v and the BigBoy re-engages charging the chassis back.  If I'm parked for days on shore power this happens and the chassis will slowly drop.  Is the board dropping because the float voltage is too low and I should set a custom setting to raise the float voltage a little?  Otherwise every few days I just kill the shore power for a bit and top off the chassis. I have Lifeline AGMs and AGM-2 setting on the Magnum 2812.  BTW , it appears the AGM (1) setting floats at 12.4v vs the AGM-2 setting 12.6v.  A custom profile could be implemented.

Thanks

My advice….PM @Frank McElroy.  He is the expert.  You should set your battery type to the proper configuration.  There is a file ….use Magnum as the key word in the search box.  Then click on everywhere and select FILES.  I wrote it as an aid.  You can also call Magnum.

Frank will have to address the strange behavior, but I, the slightly informed novice, think you have an issue with the board. MOST Big Boy coils, I THOUGHT, hum and or get hot….most of the time…

1 minute ago, Frank McElroy said:

This article is worth a thousand words.  It has all the info including pictures that you need to distinguish between a conventional and Kongsberg system.

Today these once obsolete dash switch modules used in the Kongsberg system can now be repaired.

Thanks very much 

This may be way odd base but are you sure they are screws? I ha a couple of "screw" failures on my awning and learned they were actually stainless steel rivets. These were often used in fiberglass bodies in the 2000's. Had to drill them out and replace. Required a larger than regular rivet gun to install.

10 minutes ago, 1nolaguy said:

This may be way odd base but are you sure they are screws? I ha a couple of "screw" failures on my awning and learned they were actually stainless steel rivets. These were often used in fiberglass bodies in the 2000's. Had to drill them out and replace. Required a larger than regular rivet gun to install.

These are screws.

8 minutes ago, 1nolaguy said:

This may be way odd base but are you sure they are screws? I ha a couple of "screw" failures on my awning and learned they were actually stainless steel rivets. These were often used in fiberglass bodies in the 2000's. Had to drill them out and replace. Required a larger than regular rivet gun to install.

Depends on the "Failure". SS ain't the end all to end all.  It has limitations.  I have had the larger 3/16" SS Pop Rivets fail on the slide side wall.  Even SS has a tensile strength limit.

IF SS Drill Screws, and I don't know if they were or if someone replaced them...they will be slightly softer and easier to drill than a hardened Drill Point (commonly used by Monaco assemblers).  

I need to find a good shop or mobile service in Houston (I can go to Dallas also if needed) that can touch up scratches on my '03 multicolored Dynasty.  Some are light, some are all the way through to the fiberglass.

Thanks!

I’m not visualizing so this solution may not work.  If the situation is right, I use a Dremel rotary tool with a metal cutting disk and cut a slot in the leftover screw.  Them I use a straight screwdriver to unscrew.  

We have just noticed our living room side (with kitchen sink and couch) has a small gap at the top corner when out.  We've pulled the slide in repeatedly to see if it would self-correct (of course at ride height, air bag suspension only).  The slide fits correctly in the other corners, no gaps. It goes in and out without any drag.  The slide lock covers have been periodically removed, slide cables cleaned and lubed.  We know there is no floor rot or other water issue.  Also, there is nothing wedged to prevent the correct seal.  We haven't checked the hydraulic reservoir under the stairwell yet but will. Of course we're leaving Florida next week so a visit to Talen RV or Lazy Daze in Wildwood is out.  Due to the complicated nature of the slide adjustment, we wouldn't want to tackle this job unless we had exact knowledge.  In case this issue gets worse or there becomes an urgent need, is there any repair facility you have found north of Florida and east of the Mississippi that you would feel comfortable taking this slide adjustment issue?

Anyone know where I can get the Servo control board for the dash heat and air conditioning in a 2001 Monaco Dynasty? Apparently it turns the engine hot water valve off to the unit when the air conditioner is running. When it fails, you get hot and cold at the same time and that’s not a good combination if you want cold air. I posted about this before but I wanted to see if somebody knows somebody that rebuilds circuit boards. 

Where can I find a used one?

Attached are some pics of it.

Thanks,

Bill

19 hours ago, Paul J A said:

2006 Diplomat PDQ shower enclosure glass
Kenster 17 hours ago

I'm still suffering from sticker shock. One piece of tempered glass at 15 and a quarter inch by 62 and a half inch is going to cost $600 by the time it's delivered.

2006 Diplomat PDQ shower enclosure glass
Tom Cherry 17 hours ago

15 minutes ago, Kenster said:

I'm still suffering from sticker shock. One piece of tempered glass at 15 and a quarter inch by 62 and a half inch is going to cost $600 by the time it's delivered.

Is that from SEA or a local vendor.  The glass, has to be cut and then shipped to a distributor that can heat treat or temper it properly.

For those that are unaware, when a piece of “tempered glass” BREAKS….a GaZillion piece of glass or beads.  WHY? Safety.  If you pop of the outside panes on the driver’s windows or a piece of an OEM Boat (runabout or big cruiser), it totally shatters and doesn’t impale you.

SOLUTION… find a supplier, locally, that can cut “dual pane….laminated windshield glass”.  Has to be the same thickness….which might be a problem.  Done all time for side glasses…..as it is HARD to get an OEM replacement panel…

OTHER SOLUTION….put in a Plexiglass panel.  Use Double thickness…..might have to Laminate with a heavy duty double sided clear tape. If slightly thinner, use double stick tape to shim out where the frame is.  Done ALL the time on boats.  Eventually will have some UV haze… but WAY thicker. Sometimes a panel is “bowed” or has a slight twist.  Had a boat windshield….looked perfectly flat.  NOPE.  My glass guy put in two exact temoered fit panes….when he tightened up the frame so the glass would swing out and latch….the stress shattered it.  Plexiglass to the rescue….

My Plexiglass cost $50….a NEW panel, just the glass, from the boat builder…$450….

Honda CRV
Flyinhy 17 hours ago

Thank you.....exactly the answer I was looking for

Dash air compressor
cbr046 17 hours ago

3 hours ago, Endeavor04 said:

Morning everyone, 

I did find a great price for replacement Sanden 4663 compressor. Broken Screw Removal - 2000 Diplomat door awning.
dereeves 17 hours ago

45 minutes ago, Bob125 said:

I’m not visualizing so this solution may not work.  If the situation is right, I use a Dremel rotary tool with a metal cutting disk and cut a slot in the leftover screw.  Them I use a straight screwdriver to unscrew.  

To cut a slot in the stub would mean a slot in the fiberglass. If there was enough exposed to do this them i could use a pipe wrench to unscrew it. 

2003 Dynasty, Roadside Front Slide Adjustment
cbr046 17 hours ago

You might check with Talin and see if they can "sneak you in" for a quick adjustment.  Asking is free. 

- bob

Anyone know where I can get a used, or have someone rebuild, my Dash SCS HVAC circuit board? 2001 Dynasty
Tom Cherry 17 hours ago

29 minutes ago, Bill C said:

Anyone know where I can get the Servo control board for the dash heat and air conditioning in a 2001 Monaco Dynasty? Apparently it turns the engine hot water valve off to the unit when the air conditioner is running. When it fails, you get hot and cold at the same time and that’s not a good combination if you want cold air. I posted about this before but I wanted to see if somebody knows somebody that rebuilds circuit boards. 

Where can I find a used one?

Attached are some pics of it.

Thanks,

Bill

Have you googled PDXRVWHOLESALE.com?  They list parts for the SCS HVAC UNITS

 

2006 Diplomat PDQ shower enclosure glass
Ivan K 17 hours ago

If you want to stay with plain tempered flat sheet of your size, you could order from online places like royaltymirror.com for half of your $600 quote with free shipping. 3/8" sheet of your size comes to $306 and you can customize it for mounting/tint etc.for some extra.

Wash and exterior cleaning locations
Joint Venture 17 hours ago

Good advice too, have used it on both coach and pick up. Just need a good wash, polish and have wheels looking shining again. At home we use a detail service that does a great job at a reasonable cost. Hoping to find one of those before we get home in June.

Anyone know where I can get a used, or have someone rebuild, my Dash SCS HVAC circuit board? 2001 Dynasty
hex_nut 16 hours ago

Many years ago, I was in need of one of these.  There were none available anywhere (just like now).  I took a walk in the back lot of Colaw's RV salvage and retrieved a couple of used ones from wrecked RVs.  You might try the salvage yards, but I suspect any usable ones have long since been retrieved.  I have known others who have replaced the servo motor valve with a mechanical one.  A friend of mine adapted a cable actuated valve so he could still control it from the dash controls.  I saw another that was just a lever actuated valve, but it would be darned inconvenient to have to stop, go out front and turn the lever when you wanted to change from heat to air conditioning.  Another friend replaced his with a later module unit that had the control board built into the control valve rather than being in the wiring harness.  The bad part was he had to replace the dash control and wiring harness out to the valve.  He removed all those parts from a wrecked unit in a salvage yard.  This is a sticky situation to be in and there is not a nice solution if you cannot find a working control board.  Good luck.

Richard 

Anyone know where I can get a used, or have someone rebuild, my Dash SCS HVAC circuit board? 2001 Dynasty
jacwjames 16 hours ago

Try messaging or calling Visione RV in KY.  Dash air compressor
miacasa_2000 16 hours ago

I replaced my UP-150  with the Sanden FLX7 If I recall correctly it had better specs and more flexibility especially with the the line mounting so it is now easier to get the gauges on and charge the system. Been 10yrs haven't even thought about it until now. 

Anyone know where I can get a used, or have someone rebuild, my Dash SCS HVAC circuit board? 2001 Dynasty
Tom Cherry 16 hours ago

@Frank McElroy PM Him.

If the three chips are standard and NOT programmed, he is a whiz at troubleshooting boards.  This is not a complex board….

or perhaps @pwhittle.

These guys can fix the Intellitec boards for the Dynasties….

All they can say is NO.

Also contact Dinosaur Board.  They do a lot of refurbishment…..

Have you called NorthWest RV Supply and asked them?

Replacement of 2006 Endeavor Shower Skylight
Paul J A 15 hours ago

Water & Holding Tanks, Skylights &  A C Shrouds & More

https://www.eztopsworldwide.com/

https://www.icondirect.com/

 

ASK Wash and exterior cleaning locations
Paul J A 15 hours ago

The BEST coach washes we experienced in the 10 years we full times were at Air horn solenoid location
Fasthobie16 14 hours ago

Nope, not in console.  No air line there. 
So today I checked the output to the horn solenoid from the horn relay terminal  when activating the horn button. 12.6vdc. Unplugged the wire from solenoid to horn. Measured ohms to ground on it. Had 1.4 so there’s a coil on the air solenoid that isn’t burned out. With plenty of air in the system, I ran a jumper wire to the sol. wire bypassing the relay sending 12vdc positive straight to the solenoid. Still no horn.  Maybe a stuck solenoid. Still looking for the elusive solenoid.  FWI : I had to change a blown fuse about five months ago on the horn.  Leading me to believe I’m going to be replacing that solenoid valve. 

Wash and exterior cleaning locations
Joint Venture 13 hours ago

Good suggestion, stopping in Kenly,NC at the Truckomat Truck Wash I95 exit 106. Will be nice to have it cleaned before the new AC's are installed.                                                                         

Air horn solenoid location
jacwjames 12 hours ago

Can you use a Fox & Hound and trace/follow the wire from the relay and maybe get a general direction.

I checked the air schematic for a 96-99 Monaco and it shows the tubing going to the air horn as Blue so you may try and trace either a yellow or blue 1/4" tubing to the front.   

Air horn solenoid location
Fasthobie16 12 hours ago

Yellow 1/4” supply tubing in overhead area. I do have a fox & hound so will see if will lead me there. Thanks. 

Location of Domestic battery ground?
ido70 12 hours ago

Tom, I found two ground studs and was able to overhaul both however once all done, tried Gen again and same-o, will only start if booster switch held in. I’ve put hat problem away for now; the solution is an easy fix. Thanks for your input.

How to get circuit boards in the front run bay of an 08 Dynasty - (Pre Kongsberg CCM system)
Kevinwald 11 hours ago

17 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

First, lets set the record straight.  You are “mixing” things and its better for those reading this to understand the whole story.  There is, I think, a file or two that goes into detail.

Circa 2005 or so, Monaco “updated” ALL DYNASTY and above to TWO DIFFERENT “Intellitec” systems.

The first….and which Frank alluded to, as well as the OP’s question is in the Front and Rear RUN BAYS.  Don’t hold me to the numbers, someone needs to count….and it IS on the drawings,  There are about 13 or so Front RUN Bay boards.  There are about 8 or so Rear RUN bay boards.  These are the BOARDS IN QUESTION.

@Frank McElroy and @pwhittle are members that can, at a much lower “tip”, analyze and replace chips and reprogram these.  In some cases, they also can “fix” a board that has a shorted out (OPEN) copper trace or the strips on the bottom.  There is one other source, but their prices and credibility and quality has been called into question by some members as well as field techs who diagnose and isolate a board and ship it to them.  We are FORTUNATE to have this resource here.

Continuing…..the “upgrade” circa 2005/6 was “sporadic” at best.  We have owners of 2005 Executives that have the ORIGINAL, Non Intellitec MH as wells as owners that DO.  Supposedly, the higher ends were done first…then down the food chain. The RULE of thumb was that the Dynasty was a 2006 upgrade. BUT Monaco published TWO different manuals in 2005 for them.  BOTTOM LINE…we have to ASK or have a member post pictures of the Front or Rear to determine which system….and, unfortunately, many responses or advice from the NON Intellitec owners is given to Intellitec owners…. Then the member with the problem is totally confused and frustrated as the component or circuit or whatever they are told to find….AIN’T IN THEIR MH.

Moving along.  The INTERIOR Intellitec Multiplexed Lighting and lighted key pads and Central Processing Unit and the “output modules” were also included….

The circuit boards in question here are NOT MULTIPLEXED….they are funky with all sorts of lights and test buttons and such….but they send out conventional Analog  (12 VDC signals).  OK….take a deep breath…..it gets WORSE.

NOW…. You mentioned the infamous KONGSBERG CCM (Chassis Control Modules)that  are in the FRONT RUN BAY.  That eliminates the Intellitec boards….which is the issue.  HOWVER..all but ONE of the Rear Intellitec Boards was also replaced.  It is MY UNDERSTANDING, that only the #6 Intellitec Board in the REAR RUN bay was a “HOLDOVER” in the NEW (and improved?) CCM System.  That, BTW, runs or controls the BIRD charging system and Boost and such…

NOW….again, the inconsistency of Monaco comes out.  SOME of the Dynasty in 2008, had a K’B CCM….a rare few….but out there.  Supposedly, the SIG’s in 2008 WERE CCM.  NOT ALWAYS TRUE.  BUT, supposedly….all as in EVERY ONE of the 2009 models was CCM.  Now….is this in concrete?  NOPE.  Sometimes an older model with “fall out” or be in a transition year and get “a next year model number”.  So, we always ASK for photos to verify folk’s issues before we delve in….and hope that other contributing members understand the nuances …but unfortunately, many folks spend time hunting for something that is NOT on their MH, due to an inaccurate post.

Sorry for the length….but sometimes a simple question has to be answered with “IT DEPENDS”…..Frank just posted with a comment….mine matches his and I just went into more detail and background….as this post can be used for information….

 

 

New to this group.

I see a follow on poster changed the name to my post.  Why would that be a good thing, as I am seeking information on a specific topic, now it is totally removed from my topic and of no value. 

Air horn solenoid location
Paul Brown Jr 11 hours ago

did you find it ?

CR-V - what is this connected to my negative battery post
Steve P 11 hours ago

@Tom Cherry Wow!  I appreciate you so much.  I think you must be a walking parts catalog.  Or the world's top Googler!  In any case, thanks for coming thru again!!

Battery Boost Held ON too Long - What Could Possibly Go Wrong?
96 EVO 10 hours ago

Here's a pic of my Magnum charger / Inverter panel, float charging at 13.7V, with 0 DC amps.

It's been sitting in my driveway, plugged into shore power for close to 2 weeks!

Reason it's at 13.7-13.8V is the battery temp sensor is on, and outside temps got down to mid 30's overnight.

2004 Camelot. In storage (blocks) for several months. Motorhome Will Not Move. Idea’s?
NAMVET77 10 hours ago

Update on the parking brake not releasing.  During my search for air leaks (found a whole bunch) I replaced a dozen or so brass fittings that were leaking.  On the front tank there is a 3 way check valve and it was leaking at the tank,  There are 3 air lines that attach to the 3 way check valve (silver, red and green).  I took a picture of the set up, removed the lines and fittings and replaced the fittings.  Reinstalled the air lines as per the picture (or as I thought I did).  Checked for leaks and there were none.  Moved on to other leaks.  Anyway, after a lot of double and triple checking the green and red lines at the 3 way check valve were reversed.  Switched the air lines and now the parking brake releases!!!🤪  Now we are getting ready to go to the MS rally.  Thanks for the input even though the problem was self inflected.

Don

ESCO ES50M-65N Transfer Switch AC hum concerns.
NAMVET77 10 hours ago

I have the ESSCO ES50M-65N Transfer Switch and it is humming much louder than normal.  I'm thinking one of the relays is going bad.  I'm getting ready to go on the road in a couple days and I want to buy just the one relay and have it available just in case it does go out.  Does anyone have the part number for the relay?

 

Don

ESCO ES50M-65N Transfer Switch AC hum concerns.
BradHend 9 hours ago

Is it a very fast chatter noise?

ESCO ES50M-65N Transfer Switch AC hum concerns.
Tom Cherry 9 hours ago

59 minutes ago, NAMVET77 said:

I have the ESSCO ES50M-65N Transfer Switch and it is humming much louder than normal.  I'm thinking one of the relays is going bad.  I'm getting ready to go on the road in a couple days and I want to buy just the one relay and have it available just in case it does go out.  Does anyone have the part number for the relay?

 

Don

You have the “Sherman Tank” of the ESCO ATS.  Was used extensively.  But, the main complaint was AC HUM and noise,  Two AC  coil relays. Hum is what it did….when new.  Drove wives crazy…..and many complained.  ESCO bought the LYGHT LPT50BRD.  That is more popular due to the which is a low voltage, not 120 VAC line voltage model.  Call ESCO.  They still stock the parts and you can order it from them.  Due to the age, we do not, I think, have the manual or Parts List. However, the ESCO tech support is great..one of best.

 

ESCO ES50M-65N Transfer Switch AC hum concerns.
Ivan K 8 hours ago

Here is a pic of the contactor but you may want to confirm as Tom said. May have used different ones over the years. Also it may go away if you unplug and plug again. I also read somewhere that a capacitor replacement on the board fixed excessive hum but it is a hearsay. 

ESCO ES50M-65N Transfer Switch AC hum concerns.
NAMVET77 8 hours ago

Thanks Ivan.  I'm going to call Esco in the AM to see about the hum.  It sure is loud and just under the bedroom window.

Don

Thanks Tom.  Definitely calling Esco in the AM.

Don

Brad,

No chatter.  It is definitely a loud hum.

Don

Anyone know where I can get a used, or have someone rebuild, my Dash SCS HVAC circuit board? 2001 Dynasty
pwhittle 7 hours ago

The IC’s are still available. I expect the regulator is too.

Should be a fairly straightforward return on that board.

paul

Ride Height Problem
Frank McElroy 6 hours ago

On 4/10/2024 at 7:51 PM, Michael Powell said:

Hate to be a be paain't but do you have pictures of them??

Just follow the large air hoses form the 4 front air bags.  The 4 large are hoses go to each end of the 2 ping tanks located up high next to the frame rail centered between the steer airbags on each side.

How to get circuit boards in the front run bay of an 08 Dynasty - (Pre Kongsberg CCM system)
Tom Cherry 2 hours ago

9 hours ago, Kevinwald said:

 

New to this group.

I see a follow on poster changed the name to my post.  Why would that be a good thing, as I am seeking information on a specific topic, now it is totally removed from my topic and of no value. 

Kevin,

The title was changed as many folks were asking questions and thinking or wondering about Kongsberg.  The title change was preemptive to keep it focused

However, it has been edited back to the original title with a tag line regarding CCM. 

We have numerous issues with folks NOT fully understanding specifically what you were talking about and then wandering off track.  Frank very succinctly answered your question. Since he does not “promote” what he and Paul Whittle do, we often provide more information….sometimes for the OP and sometimes for the group following it so thy will learn as well. Frank also posted an explanation to provide clarity.

In one of your subsequent posts, you commented on finding boards.  These boards are rare and becoming rarer. The #6 board in the Rear Run controls the BIRD (BiDirectional) charging system.  That board, since it is in use while driving or in storage, with power, is, I think, the most common failure. Frank and Paul repair these boards all the time.  FWIW, going deeper, the #6 board is not a “just pop in a new chip”. After the chip is installed, it has to be reprogrammed and both Frank and Paul have the ability as well as the “setup” and the software to do that.  
 

Your call on buying boards…but be aware, the boards you buy probably have not been tested as very few folks can do that…  Again, we have the two best resources, in my opinion, to repair ANY of the boards, in the country here.  Your call on spares or such, but unless you arrange for a testing and return, you might be buying something defective…

We, the moderators, will have members post a problem and go down the wrong path….as in “maybe a Kongsberg”.  That was, to us, evident.  However, the first question asked was “Kongsberg”, so this post offered a “teaching” opportunity so more folks would be knowledgeable.

That’s it.  This is often done.  Typically, when a 2009 unit has issues, the title is edited to call out the K’B CCM.

We also prefer a member’s signature include a CCM tag line so we know instantly if his year, which did include some 2008’s,  was a CCM.

That’s the logic….Sorry if it was confusing….you now, along with others, have a little more “Monaco” background….

Welcome aboard

Battery Boost Held ON too Long - What Could Possibly Go Wrong?
Tom Cherry 1 hour ago

8 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Here's a pic of my Magnum charger / Inverter panel, float charging at 13.7V, with 0 DC amps.

It's been sitting in my driveway, plugged into shore power for close to 2 weeks!

Reason it's at 13.7-13.8V is the battery temp sensor is on, and outside temps got down to mid 30's overnight.

Ben….

First….  Your system, which is the same as mine, works as you described….. and that is normal. And the only issue that I expect is to clean the Big Boy.  I actually carry a spare.  So….that is the way, in “theory”, that the Intellitec system was designed to work. As an aside, our Big Boy “sees” less than half the voltage….so when it gets hot and hums….it is totally different from the Dynasty or the system in Al’s Patriot thunder.  His Big Boy will be more than HOT….you usually can’t keep your hand on it as it is HOT..not warm.  And it is twice as loud when engaged or the HUM is pronounced.  That is the way that Intellitec designed BOTH systems….and is normal…..lots of folks are not aware of this…

But…if you go back and read Al’s post about his Patriot Thunder (basically same as any 05/06 Dynasty and up, @amphi_sc does not have “our” system.  He has a dedicated #6 PCB for charging and boost and maybe one other function.  His is not working, it appears, like it was designed.  In theory….from a concept, the two systems should function the same.  But in reality, his system is radically different and more complex than ours and  Frank and Paul are two, perhaps we have others, of the best here, as well as in the country, that can repair the “out of production” board and reprogram it.  It is simple for them as they have the “rig” to test…but when they replace the chip, which is probably 90% of the failures, they have to reprogram the new chip….sort of like reformatting the hard drive on a computer and installing a new OS.

From experience, after a lot of “educatin” by Frank, I know how it works….and can assist in determining whether it is a board or Big Boy issue…but then hand off to someone else if it is a defective board.

You probably already know this, but your comment provided a post to explain it so others with our system or the newer Dynasty can understand the differences.

Thanks….

ESCO ES50M-65N Transfer Switch AC hum concerns.
Tom Cherry 1 hour ago

7 hours ago, NAMVET77 said:

Thanks Ivan.  I'm going to call Esco in the AM to see about the hum.  It sure is loud and just under the bedroom window.

Don

Thanks Tom.  Definitely calling Esco in the AM.

Don

Brad,

No chatter.  It is definitely a loud hum.

Don

Good deal.  ESCO may “advise” repairing, which is simple for almost anyone to do.  They may determine that the parts or the age of the switch do not make it “cost effective”.

In the past, after many back and forth sessions with the ESCO techs…including a couple of hours with their chief Design Engineer, they usually recommend, like when folks had the ill fated IOTA, that you install the LPT50BRD. Now, that was a while back…. But they do or did warn that if the “65N” was purchased instead that it “would/might/will” hum.  How loud and how annoying….location and hearing of the occupants and such varies.  To date…..as in over 15 years, only a few of the 65N were used for an IOTA replacement …and there was one or two that said….”gee, wish I had known that”.

So that is the caveat…that many don’t know.  ESCO will help you…and many, especially the early members of the Yahoo group really LIKED that model….even though it was only used a few years…..then Monaco switched to the IOTA on the lower end and the TRC Surgeguard…with a proprietary interface with the Aladdin, on the upper ends….

Now, you know “the rest of the story”….

Location of Domestic battery ground?
Tom Cherry 41 minutes ago

11 hours ago, ido70 said:

Tom, I found two ground studs and was able to overhaul both however once all done, tried Gen again and same-o, will only start if booster switch held in. I’ve put hat problem away for now; the solution is an easy fix. Thanks for your input.

I don’t remember which bank starts your Genny…. I THINK….  The House.  If your work around is enough…great…

BUT…the proverbial “teaching” moment…..is at hand.. You can, eventually, trouble shoot thusly…..and this is real world.

First…you will need a helper and a VOM and probably a 50 ft or so length of #16 or #14 hookup wire with alligator clips on both ends.  

Helps to have both probe leads and alligator clip leads on the meter.

Shinny under and hook up or hold the meter leads on the rear terminals of the Genny.  Measure the voltage and record.  Then, have your helper try to start the Genny.  OK….repeat….except have then hold on the boost. Measure the voltage….then crank and note the voltage while cranking.   ODDS ARE….you are gonna see WHY it will not start.  That means….a bad cable or a bad switch (House Bank) or a bad connection.  
 

NOW….go back to the batteries.  Again….measure the House….then have the helper try to crank the Genny.  Record the voltages .  Now repeat and have them hold on the boost.  IF the House drops close to what you measured up front with the HOUSE only….time for new batteries.  BUT if the House was 12.7 or so and hardly any difference with the boost ….then a down stream issue.  Where…..hard to find…but you LEARN A LOT.

If your disconnect switch kills the House battery…..then….go there.  Measure each stud to a GOOD ground (you can run the hookup wire to the negative on the house bank).  Should be less than 0.1 - 0.2 VDC if that much in the readings,  NOW….put the leads across the terminals.  NOW crank the genny.  IF you get more than 0.1-0.2 VDC….bad switch.  What is happening is there is a contact issue or high resistance in the switch.  Since the house load is way less….you don’t NOTICE it.  BUT it must be replaced. If you have electric motor or hydraulic motor slides, the bad switch is damaging the motors.  The voltage there will drop or be low, under load, just like the genny.  This causes the amperage to increase, exponentially…..and the motor will even fail.  TRUST ME….this happened.  My FIRST issue was a bad ground.  But I eventually found out, after replacing the entire hydraulic pump package….the bad switch.  Mine would work great….drive 1000 miles….great.  Drive a mile….voltage drop. When I replaced the pump, I out in a selector switch and then put the hydraulic on the chassis,  Just a few years ago, I discovered the bad switch…caught it when it was in the failure mode.

Past that….what you then need to do….you measure the voltage across a set or terminals….or a cable…. Then start the genny.  When you find a big voltage drop….then you fix or replace the connections or the cable.  We have had folks that has an internally corroded cable.  LOOKED GREAT…but it had a voltage drop…from end to end….under load.  New cable….fixed.  Cut old apart….found the wires “gone” or corroded….

It happens.  Tedious process….but it works….and is the ONLY way to chase and troubleshoot….

Good Luck…

2004 Camelot. In storage (blocks) for several months. Motorhome Will Not Move. Idea’s?
Tom Cherry 36 minutes ago

9 hours ago, NAMVET77 said:

Update on the parking brake not releasing.  During my search for air leaks (found a whole bunch) I replaced a dozen or so brass fittings that were leaking.  On the front tank there is a 3 way check valve and it was leaking at the tank,  There are 3 air lines that attach to the 3 way check valve (silver, red and green).  I took a picture of the set up, removed the lines and fittings and replaced the fittings.  Reinstalled the air lines as per the picture (or as I thought I did).  Checked for leaks and there were none.  Moved on to other leaks.  Anyway, after a lot of double and triple checking the green and red lines at the 3 way check valve were reversed.  Switched the air lines and now the parking brake releases!!!🤪  Now we are getting ready to go to the MS rally.  Thanks for the input even though the problem was self inflected.

Don

Great….one word of caution.  There are “plumbing” brass fittings and DOT Approved Air Systems brass fittings.  Most folks buy the fittings at a Truck Supply house and they are higher pressure DOT approved.  You can, from time to time, find air and plumbing fittings at Lowes or a hardware store.  Just be aware that the MH came with all High Pressure DOT approved fittings….  Temporary in the field….use them,  long range….put back in the DOT approved ones….

Please do not reply to this message. You must visit the forum to reply.

This message was sent to you because you opted in for Newsletters at Bill D’s Monacoers.  

To unsubscribe Guest click here:Unsubscribe here

We welcome your comments and suggestions for our newsletter.  Please send comments to newsletter@monacoers.org 

Copyright © 2024 Monacoers, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

View all Issues

---