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Scotty Hutto

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Everything posted by Scotty Hutto

  1. Scotty Hutto
    This is a question frequently asked on the site (and other Monaco sites). I've done the best I can to compile what information is available. See note at bottom regarding corrections. Monaco Holiday Rambler Beaver Safari “Mostly” Built in Signature - Marquis - Oregon Executive Navigator - Panther Oregon Dynasty Imperial Patriot Thunder Zanzibar Oregon Windsor Imperial (02-05) Contessa Gazelle OR / IN - - Monterey Sahara Oregon Camelot Scepter Sabrina Cheetah Indiana Diplomat Endeavor Santiam Simba Indiana Knight Ambassador - Passage Indiana Cayman Neptune - - Indiana LaPalma (2006-9 DP) Vacationer (2006-9 DP) - - Indiana LaPalma (gas) Vacationer (gas) - - Indiana Monarch (gas) Admiral (gas) - - Indiana Notes: 1. 2004-2007 considered "prime" years of MCC by some because of quality, non-DEF engines, etc. 2. Late 2007 through 2009 MCC was heading into bankruptcy (unpaid vendors, random parts). Still great coaches, but some parts may not be standard. 3. Beaver coaches are known for beautiful burl wood designs, cabinetry, and multiple species of wood on raised panel doors 4. Higher-end Beavers have more robust slide construction, with encapsulated corners and additional cross-bracing Please provide any corrections, updates, or additional information in the comments below. This will be updated as new or more accurate info comes available.
  2. Scotty Hutto
    History: 1953 - Holiday Rambler founded in Wakarusa, IN 1968 - Monaco founded 1968 in Junction City, Oregon as Caribou Manufacturing Company 1968 - Beaver Motorcoach Corp founded in Bend, OR. (Named after Oregon State mascot) 1977 - Caribou Manufacturing Company changes name to Monaco Coach Corporation (MCC) 1984 - Monaco acquires Roadmaster Chassis division of Chrysler 1986 - Safari Motorcoach Corp founded in Harrisburg, OR 1994 - Safari Motorcoach Corp purchases Beaver Motorocoach Corp 1994 - Monaco moves from Junction City, OR to Coburg, OR 1996 - Monaco acquires Holiday Rambler 2002 - MCC acquires Safari Motorcoach Corporation (including Beaver Motorcoach Corporation) 2009 - MCC files Chapter 11 bankruptcy (reorganization) in April; converted to Chapter 7 (liquidation) in June 2009 - MCC assets purchased by Navistar; division renamed Monaco RV LLC. 2013 - Monaco RV assets purchase by REV in 2013 as part of Navistar restructuring 2016 - Ty Kelly / Beaver Sales & Service purchased Beaver brand from REV with intent to eventually resume production 2019 - Currently last new model year for Monaco brand coaches with the Signature and Marquis being the last coaches remaining; apparently the 2019 model year coaches are still in production as of 2/15/2021. Links with coach history and support for specific brands: Monaco Coach Corporation - Wikipedia article Monaco Coach - Current (REV) Site Monaco Coach Parts - Current (REV) Site Holiday Rambler - Wikipedia article Holiday Rambler - Current (REV) Site Ramblin' Pushers on Groups.IO Beaver Motorcoach Corporation - Wikipedia article Beaver Motorhome History Beaver Ambassadors Club (We are not aware of a current Beaver Motorcoach site) Safari Motorcoach Corporation - Wikipedia article Please feel free to add updates, additional information, suggest links to related sites, or add color commentary in the comments section
  3. Scotty Hutto
    I’m hoping @Larry Laursen or @Frank McElroy can straighten me out here, but this is my understanding from the Intellitec manual: “Energy Management is only enabled if 240 VAC Service is not available. When connected to 240 VAC Service, the Energy Management features of the unit are disabled and the unit switches all controlled loads “ON”. The main neutral line is routed through the magnetically coupled current sensor, which measures the current flowing through the neutral line. This is the total amount being drawn by all the 120 volt appliances in the RV when the available power service is 120 VAC. When this current exceeds the "shore" service rating of 30Amps (20Amps if the threshold has been set lower or the generator service rating and 240 VAC service is not available, the will turn off the controlled loads in an effort to bring the total current to the limit of the incoming service” So... why wouldn’t disconnecting the current sensor (CT, or current transformer) disable the EMS? On my board it has a small connector that will allow me to disconnect the CT. Theoretically you could mount a small DPDT switch to enable or disable energy management... at your own risk, of course. It is there for a reason, but Bob’s situation seems like one that would merit that. It seems a very simple solution to @W7BE_Bob’s problem, or am I missing some important point? (I probably am, but wanted to ask...)
  4. Scotty Hutto
    Good point Chuck. That can cause a lot of frustration if someone attempts to use a regular phone cable. Additionally, the cables used for Progressive Industries remotes are also data cables, not phone cables.
  5. Scotty Hutto
    Bob, There are some people on the board more knowledgeable than me, but you should be able to take the cover off your breaker panel and unplug the current transformer from the EMS board.
  6. Scotty Hutto
    I’ve been interested, but haven’t bought it yet. Curious to see other’s experiences.
  7. Scotty Hutto
    I purchased these for my coach on Amazon; however @Steven P found a source for them that was significantly less expensive. Hopefully he’ll share... Kaper II L14-0026A Amber LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113XWJYC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Kaper II L14-0026R Red LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113XWAR8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share 1. IF yours are like mine, the screws will be rusted. Lots of liquid wrench (or equivalent) for a day or two before trying to remove them. If you break a screw, don’t fret... just grind it down level and drill a new pilot hole just above or below. You won’t be able to tell the 1/16” difference... finally, take this opportunity to replace the screws with stainless steel screws... (like Monaco didn’t) I used #8 1-1/4” stainless steel screws. 2. There are crimp connectors on the wires that will not pull out through the hole on the outside. Don’t try. Please. (voice of experience: if you pull it loose, you have to take apart the cabinets over the front of the coach to get to the loose wire 🤦🏻‍♂️) Another tip from @Steven P; clip the wires right at the light and use those wires to attach the new lights. Shove the connections one at-a-time through the tiny holes Monaco drilled and seal the hole with Proflex. 3. Mine had liberal amounts of proflex adhereing them to the coach body. A little elbow grease, a sharp knife, and lots of care to remove. I only broke 2 of 12 (I replaced all the Amber and Red on my coach). 4. once you’ve crimped (or soldered, etc.) the wires, use liberal amounts of Proflex to seal the hole and adhere the new light to the coach. Done correctly this will prevent future leaks. Being a little uptight about leaks, I also sealed around the lights after they were installed. I hope I never have to replace them again...😂 Before: After:
  8. Scotty Hutto
    While addressing similar issues a couple of years back, I discovered that Monaco used the same basic wiring harness across much of the coach line (I.e., all diesel pushers). So on my 2006 Dip, I have the same base wiring harness as all the coaches “above” me in the product line and they include connectors for things that were never even an option on my coach. (There was also a LOT OF extra wire, because the harness had to fit a 45’ coach as well as my 40’ coach.) I know this doesn’t help solve the issue, but it may explain some of the extra connectors.
  9. Scotty Hutto
    I did not have to modify the drawer. There is plenty of room behind the drawer for the subwoofer. I did remove the drawers for the installation, and it was a little difficult getting back there to anchor the subwoofer to the floor. I replaced four of the six speakers, and rewired them so that they are set up to use the balance and fader properly. I disconnected the bedroom speakers, and will address them in a future project - most likely somehow tied in with the bedroom TV. I’ll add some pics next time I make it over to the coach. 😁
  10. Scotty Hutto
    Bill will be sorely missed by this group and others. He was one of the first to welcome me to Bill D’s Monacoers. He was an advisor and friend, and we spent a lot of time discussing all things electrical as well as this site. He was a good guy, loved a good debate (Ha! Argument!) and was willing to help anyone who reached out for help.
  11. Scotty Hutto
    I used CoPilot RV for a while. It’s not a great app, but it does what you ask above. I became disenchanted after I paid a “one-time fee” for the upgraded version, and less than a year later they revamped the app and wanted me to pay a second time. I just deleted the CoPilot app and use both a Garmin 780RV (RV specific routing) and Waze (traffic, hazards). YMMV...
  12. Scotty Hutto
    @vanwill52, Yes, I consulted with @pwhittle on the speakers and the wiring. He also 3D printed the trim plate for the dash stereo. Not sure I would do any major improvement without his advice. 😉
  13. Scotty Hutto
    I added this section today, but will closely monitor it for the first several weeks. While I appreciate the comments above, sometimes when you're going to an unfamiliar part of the country it's good to have a place to start looking. If it becomes a useful tool, we'll refine it as it goes. If not, I have a "delete" button for forums... 🙂
  14. Scotty Hutto
    I'll defer to @Frank McElroy as he manages the downloads. I'm confident they can!
  15. Scotty Hutto
    Since there was some interest, I took this thread and did a write-up in the "Mods" section with complete model numbers and such. You can find that here:
  16. Scotty Hutto
    Upgraded the dash radio and speakers and added a subwoofer to my dash radio. Replaced the stock Magnadyne (1.5 DIN) radio with a Pioneer AVH-X4800BS double din radio. Thanks to @pwhittle for the very sleek trim plate. (Note: This is a unit I already owned; If I were to purchase something today, I would get one with CarPlay and Bluetooth -- something like the Pioneer AVH-W4500NEX) Added a Pioneer TS-WH500A powered subwoofer and placed it under the dash console behind the bottom drawer When I added the pic below, it reminded me that I removed about 6-8’ of flex AC conduit that was coiled up back there Replaced the stock Magnadyne 5-1/4" speakers with JBL Concert Series 521 5-14" 2-way speakers. Although I went from 3-way to 2-way, the sound is greatly improved.
  17. Scotty Hutto
    The dash radio is an AVH-X4800BS. (Note: If I were to purchase something today, I would get one with CarPlay, which this one doesn't have.) The subwoofer is a Pioneer TS-WH500A powered subwoofer and is placed behind the bottom drawer under the dash console.
  18. Scotty Hutto
    JBL 5-1/4 speakers and a powered subwoofer. I also rewired all of the speakers so the front four speakers are no longer wired in series and I can properly use the fader. The bedroom speakers are no longer connected to the dash stereo (we never used them) and are the subject of a future project. I already upgraded the dash stereo to a Pioneer double-din unit with Bluetooth, etc.
  19. Scotty Hutto
    I have four Maganadyne OEM speakers and covers from a 2006 Diplomat available. If you can use one or all, cover shipping and they’re yours. 😉 Y
  20. Scotty Hutto
    What @DavidL said above. I originally sanded, polished, and coated the outside of my headlights and they looked great until moisture got in them an the insides got dirty... I took them out and disassembled them, but it's a fair amount of work and for me the sealant was messy... so I chunked the old headlights and bought shiny new ones... I went with the OEM 2000 Buick Century fixtures from GM rather than the TYCO knock-offs that Monaco used. (As a side note I strongly prefer to fix things to replacing them, but this was one instance I decided it just wasn't worth the time...)
  21. Scotty Hutto
    I wonder if they have some type "timer" circuitry that runs whenever the unit is powered up... Mine too went south almost exactly 5 years after the manufacture date printed on the unit. I replaced the LPG detector, CO detector, and smoke detectors. Cheap insurance, but still I wonder about that timer... maybe they're just trying to "help" us remember to replace them. 🤣
  22. Scotty Hutto
    Always open to new ideas! Easy to add. I’ll work on it this weekend. Suggestions on how to set up regions would be appreciated...
  23. Scotty Hutto
    Sooo... Should you use Biobor MD and JF? I currently dose every fill up with JF (maintenance dose). I also use another fuel additive for lubricity.
  24. Scotty Hutto
    I use Biobor JF maintenance dose every time I fill the tank. I only did the Startron about twice a year, and did it on top of the Biobor JF. It seems everywhere I fill up uses Biodiesel, so I always do the maintenance Dose at every fill-up. After reading all of the info provided by Mr. Eakins, it sounds like maybe the Startron was just pouring money in my tank (😁) since I treat every time I introduce new fuel to the tank.
  25. Scotty Hutto
    Larry, I have a Vizio D39F-E1. It’s a 39” smart TV that has several optical out modes, and definitely has variable RCA jack out (you can switch the RCA jacks between fixed and variable). Its a 2018 model, and you can find them for about $200 on Amazon or Best Buy. https://support.Vizio.com/s/article/D39f-E1-Model-Information-1?language=en_US
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