Dr4Film

Ivan, does that mean your switch is not a momentary in the ON position? It's only momentary in the OFF position?

They most likely ran out of the correct Carlings Technology two position switch and installed a three position switch. I suspect that both the middle and up positions are the same.

The telling statement that needs some troubleshooting is why the Inverter did not transfer over to ON from "standby". That tells me that you need to find out why the internal Inverter transfer switch is not switching from standby mode to inverter mode. You may have to disassemble the Inverter to find out why. Or call the Xantrex Freedom Inverter Technical support to ask them what they think.

Gene Howe, a member here, has owned two of them. The first one was installed in his 2003 Diplomat. The second one is installed in his current 2002 HR Imperial. Gene does not post much at all. He reads a lot but seldom posts. If anyone is interested, I would suggest contacting him directly through private message. He is located on the Puget Sound south of Seattle.

Maybe the term POS was a bit harsh but from my experience with having two Aqua-Hot systems in my 2002 Windsor, it has not been a blissful experience. Having the original AH (model 100-01) fail within 4 years of being in service is a bit too much to expect I guess, don't you think! Then, because Monaco decided it needed to be installed in the MIDDLE of the coach instead of near the opening of a bay door, there was no way I was able to do my own service or repairs. I did perform some repairs, but it was always having to contort my body into all sorts of positions just to get the job done. Then there is the exorbitant high cost of control boxes and mine required many. It seemed like I was having to buy a control box every year when service was performed @ just under $1000 each. I could go on and on about how much money I had spent on replacing, repairing and servicing the Aqua-Hot units in my Windsor. That single individual component of my Windsor was by far the BIGGEST nemesis of owning the coach for 18+ years. The replacement Aqua-Hot that was installed back in 2005 is model 431/12 which is basically the same as the 100-01 model that failed. The 06 Dynasty I now own has an Aqua-Hot model 100-04 and so far, it has been very reliable. However, if one day it decides to FAIL completely, well, trust me I won't be installing another rebuilt Aqua-Hot which nowadays has to be close to or even MORE than the price of a NEW Espar Comfort 16 Hydronic System.

Unless you intend on removing the Aqua-Hot unit to rebuild it yourself which will save you tons of money, my suggestion would be to scrap the POS and install an Espar Mobile Comfort Model 16 unit which is more powerful than any of the Aqua-Hot units. The overall size is smaller, 5-gallon boiler tank, easier to service yourself and has hot water on demand. There are many more advantages to the Espar unit versus being stuck with another failure prone Aqua-Hot unit. Here is the link to where my friend had his installed. Rixen’s Enterprises, Inc. | MCS16 Furnace System Complete (rixens.com)

The eBay listing back last summer was under $300. He took my offer of $280 for the keypad. Obviously, inflation has affected the eBay market too.

Thanks, Rick, Mike and Todd. That's good to know. Mike, my running lights all flash when using the Key Fob like yours. So, I have now added to my "wish" list the project to modify the wiring harness of the Keypad to have the passenger side overhead lights light up when the entry door is unlocked. It will require a relay to be added like the installation instructions state and tapping into the correct wire coming from the keypad and the light switch. There are numerous ones not being used. It can't be that difficult!

Today I decided to work on replacing the defective Essex Keypad that my infamous "certified" inspector failed to test and identify during the useless inspection I had paid for in Utah prior to purchasing my Dynasty. I had ordered a new one from eBay last summertime but never took the time to install it until today. Got it installed and it works great! Programmed my new master code then tested it to make sure it worked which it did. I did have the set of keys in my pocket just in case it didn't. My question is this keypad is different than the one I installed on my previous Windsor. The bay door unlock button is #9 instead of #7. Also, whenever I used the keypad on the Windsor to open the entry door the driver's side courtesy light would come on for about 5 seconds then turn off. When unlocking the entry door on the Dynasty with the keypad there is no courtesy light that comes which is a real PITA! So, is there supposed to be a courtesy light that comes on in my Dynasty or did they do away with that feature due to the multiplex lighting in the coach? I don't see why they did not use the passenger overhead lights to use as the entry courtesy light as those lights are on a Carlings Technolgy switch on the passenger side console. Those are not [art of the multiplex system. Makes no sense to me but who am I to question what Monaco was thinking or better yet NOT thinking back then.

It allows you to have more than one location to turn the water pump on or off. The water pump usually has larger wires that can handle more amps so they normally have a HD relay that is located after the Intellitec Latching Controller which has smaller wires connected to it. When you turn on a water pump switch the latching controller activates power to the HD relay which then closes that relay to supply all the amps needed to power the water pump through the larger wires. Can't help you with the location as Monaco was so flaky when it came to their installations that it could be located anywhere. In the 02 Windsor and the 06 Dynasty that I now own the latching controllers are located near the water pumps generally in the very same compartments. Yours could be anywhere or maybe they didn't use one in the 02 Diplomat, don't know.

Steve, I have had multiple battery jumps, one for the Dynasty the following day after driving off the sales lot, and two other ones for two different cars. No problems whatsoever except the guy that showed up to jump my Cummins ISL 400 in the Dynasty didn't show up with enough amps to turn the engine over. He called his wife to come with bigger equipment and 20 minutes later they had the coach running. Frankly, I haven't had ANY problems or concerns with Coach-Net during the past 12 years that I have had them. I won't use anyone else. Maybe it's the quality of the service people they eventually find to take on the service call. I don't believe it is the people at Coach-Net. They always make a follow-up call to make sure the service was up to your expectations. So, there's your opportunity to express your dissatisfaction with the service company that took on the call. Possibly, Coach-Net would then take notice of service companies that are not providing the level of service that THEY expect and put them on their do not call blacklist.

Gary, if the wires to the water pump are not showing 12 VDC and the in-line fuse is good then back trace to the Intellitec Water Pump Latching Controller to make sure there is 12 VDC at that relay. If yes, there are also relay(s) involved after that latching relay, at least there are on my previous Windsor. Those have to be working correctly for the voltage to get to the pump. If there is no 12 VDC at the Intellitec Latching Controller, then it may be a fuse located in the house fuse panel that is generally located inside the coach. Possibly in the bedroom, at least that's where it is my Windsor. Attached is a photo of the latching relay.

They go in the coach on their sides or back so there should not be a problem. In the old days, they always said that once you stand the fridge upright, do not turn it on right away. Let it sit for about 12 hours or so then turn it on.

Most appliance repair service technicians will not work on a residential fridge installed in a RV. I was fortunate enough to find one in Santa Clarita CA to work on my Samsung RF197 while it was still under warranty. I think you will discover that you are on your own for troubleshooting and repairs. Can't help you with removal due to not knowing how it was installed originally. If the Samsung in my previous Windsor needed to be removed, I would be able to assist the new owner as to how it would come out. The Samsung in my current Dynasty was installed prior to my purchase so I am in the same boat as you. Hopefully that Samsung RF197 keeps preforming well for many years to come.

The NotSoCold went out the curbside salon window and the Samsung RF197 came in through the same window. Easy Peasey!

There is no filter on the supply line to the Magnum Opus toilet. My current Dynasty has a Magnum Opus and my previous Windsor has a Magnum Opus and neither of them have any water filter in the supply line going to the toilet.

Those d*** things are not check valves and are a poor excuse for a water regulator. They are definitely water restrictors. I throw all of them in the trash the very first time I encounter one. Invest in a good water regulator that is adjustable with a gauge.

I worked with a Weller service technician in Michigan who specializes in Sheppard to TRW box swaps. Then they shipped it to the Weller location in Tampa FL which then was delivered to Josam's who did the swap for me including a new pitman arm. The project was done in June of 2017 to my previous 2002 Windsor. Search the forum to find my posts on the subject.

Thanks, Bill, for the information. I have changed my mind as to how I plan to accomplish this task after having a phone call from one of the members here that had done it previously with great success. Thanks everyone for posting their thoughts and ideas.

Nope, my intention is to use this male connection at the coach whereby I plug an extension cord with a 50-amp male end into my 50-amp RV shore power receptacle then plug the female end of the extension into the box at the coach once I lift the cover up and connect the cable. Once the cable is connected, I will switch the manual transfer switch from the normal coach position to the house position. Then go to my garage and double check to make sure the 200-amp main house panel has been disconnected and finally go to the coach and start the generator. Fairly simple and entirely safe in my opinion. Might not be for anyone who is electrically challenged. So, for those people they may be better off installing a Generac Home Generator system instead of attempting to use their coach generator. Or just stick to running an extension cord from one duplex outlet in the coach to the house to keep the fridge running.

Jim, Thanks for your feedback! That 50-amp male receptable is exactly what I had intended to use at the coach end if I decide to go with method #2. The generator already has a circuit breaker on it so don't need another one. Regarding the Generac Transfer Switch, too much trouble and expense when it only takes a few seconds to flip the main 200-amp breaker off at the main panel. My neighbor had a Generac Generator and transfer Switch installed onto his house a few years ago after they moved in. I hear the generator running about once a week as it gets exercised a certain amount of time to make sure it will be ready to go when needed.

After having had two back-to-back hurricanes affecting my area of Florida, I was thinking about how I could use my 10 KW coach generator to power some of the house. After the most recent hurricane, Nicole, we were without power for almost two days. I used a 100-foot extension cord reel that had four outlets on the side of the reel and plugged it into the 120 VAC outlet in the service bay. I ran the cord up to the second floor where our living area is located. I then used the four plugs on the side of the reel to power the fridge, one lamp, my AT&T Mobley device and my laptop. I know that whatever I decide to construct, the very first thing I must do is to turn off the 200-amp main circuit breakers to completely disconnect the house power panel from the incoming power line eliminating any back feeding to the power grid. I have thought about two different methods to utilize the coaches 10 KW generator. One is to make up two long 12-gauge Romex cables that would come together in 50-amp Camco male plug. One cable would be plugged into the 120 VAC outlet in the service bay and the second would be plugged into the 120 VAC outlet on the passenger side of the coach which are on opposite power phases and circuit breakers in the power panel of the coach. The 50-amp male plug would then go into the 50-amp RV outlet I use to power the coach while parked. Once everything is plugged in then power up the generator. I would have about 1800 watts of power on each leg or a total of 3600 watts of power to use in the house. That would be enough to keep the fridge going, power some lights, TV, microwave, chargers, etc. I would not be able to run the AC, hot water heater, stove or dryer, basically anything that requires 240 VAC cannot be used. The second idea was to remove the generator wire from the transfer switch and wire it into a manual transfer switch that would funnel power to a 50-amp receptacle with the switch in one direction or funnel power to the onboard Surge Guard Transfer Switch to power the coach with the switch in the “normal” position. Then using a 50-amp power extension cord, plug one end into the special 50-amp receptacle and the other would be plugged into my 50-amp RV outlet on the wall. I would then have plenty of power available to power the house but keeping in mind that I would not be able to run ALL of the 240 VAC devices at the same time. I would only be able to use one at a time such as the central AC when needed, hot water heater when needed, stove or dryer when needed. What are your thoughts on each method? Obviously, the second method would require more work than the first. Not much work needed to put together a special cable for the first method. Thanks for your thoughts and comments.

I had Barry at Josam's replace the drag link on my previous Windsor back in July of 2017. That is something that I have no desire to tackle so I let the experts, Josam's, do it for me. I will be taking my Dynasty to Josam's sometime this winter to have some HWH Air Leveling leaks taken care of plus have the Borg Dully Stems and Tag Axle Stems replaced. I will have him also check my drag link since my coach is also a 2006.

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My coolant surge tank on my 06 Dynasty is fully accessible which can be filled with a small plastic bottle. Are you saying that your coolant cap is not accessible?