jacwjames

You indicate that this has not been a problem before and only happens now while driving. This to me indicates it is a "shorting" problem where wires are either touching each other or ground. Could be a place on the wire that has had it's insulation rubbed off compromised. My recommendation would be to disconnect the load side of the GFIC wires and see if it doesn't trip while driving. If it stays on then the problem is down stream. You will have to determine the route of the daisy chained outlets and isolate one at a time. You might guess and disconnect one of the center outlets, reconnect the wires at the GFIC and see if stays in, if it does the problem is further down stream. Not knowing the routing of the daisy chain will be the challenging part. I had to track down problem circuits in the new house I wired. Even knowing how the circuits were wired it still was a challenge. In two cases I actually had bad feeds from the main panel and concluded that the dry wallers or finish guy hit the homerun wire with a screw. I found latter that the finisher was using longer screws to pull wall board in, drywallers used the standard 1 5/8" screws. I had 2 home runs running the same general vicinity that both were shorted. (do you know how hard it is to replace wires from the service panel to the individual rooms when the drywall is up and finished).

I would suggest you join the Cummins Quickserve site. https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html Once you register and put in your engine SN you can do search for parts and maintenance documents. I downloaded the complete maintenance manual for my engine. I also have downloaded dozens of drawings with parts breakdown for different components or systems. As I read different forums and see different issues pop up I will go to the Cummins site and retrieve and save the information for future reference. If you have the original documentation that came with your coach there should be an engine service manual that lists items specific to the engine. Other items will be specific to the chassis such as the air filter and air dryer since these were added by Monaco during build.

Yup, mine gets warm >>>> heat is energy just like a light bulb.

Do you have a salesman switch that shuts the house portion off? If I leave mine on my batteries will deplete even though I have 325 watt solar. If I turn the salesman switch off the batteries will stay charged. I started to try and figure out what the big draw was but had other better things to do. I did start putting a clamp amp meter on various wires in my passenger side rear electrical, which lead me to shut of the salesman switch, but that's as far as I got. I did leave the inverter display active to monitor voltage and state of charge, it does not draw much power in idle state. So I will be following this thread.

GFIC could be tripping when it senses ground wire to neutral or lead wire. Might be moisture related or wires might not be insulated/tapped to prevent wires from touching while bouncing down the road. It doesn't take much. I would inspect every outlet downstream from the GFCI and make sure wires are secure and tapped and the ground wire is tucked as far back into the box as possible. The GFIC could also be on the verge of failure. They do go bad. While building my house I installed at least 3 GFIC outlets that were bad. You could try replacing GFIC as a last resort.

Richard, My VIP controller is behind the radio. I can access it by taking out the small panel that has the AC controls. You can reach if from there. My VIP controller quit and it happened after I changed out the Cobra CB box. Went back in and found that one wire was pulled out of a pin connector in the wiring harness. It was obvious that it had been pulled out before, someone tried to crimp it back but didn't work. I finally bought a small battery powered soldering tool and fixed it in place. been working ever since. You might try just unplugging and plugging back in the connectors first, I've read several times where this solved the problem.

http://www.rv-project.com/projects/ems.php

There is a metal shroud that bolts to the radiator/CAC stack and then there is a cross support that bolts to the shroud and the fan motor assembly bolts to the cross member. I attached a parts page showing how it attached. I think most of the side radiators have a similar configuration, at least in this time frame, with different sizes based on engine size. 1 Engine Fan Cooling.pdf

I remounted the electrical outlets the same as Richard, which resulted in the +2" clearance in the rear of the fridge. I also added additional blocking at the top and slides to keep the fridge from moving. On the sides I actually tapered the blocks so that the refrigerator centered itself when I pushed it in. In the end the front of the refrigerator aligned flush/even with the front of the cabinet. Since I made two separate supports for the fridge to sit on that align with the rollers there is plenty of air movement from under the fridge.

Here is a post on IRV2 I did when I installed my Samsung. My Windsor has a lower ceiling height then yours so it was difficult to get the height I needed, had to beg/borrow/steal every 1/16th of an inch. I had posted what I aid on the old Yahoo site but I don't think any of those posts are accessible. Had good advice from Bob Nodine and Vanwill, I'm sure others will offer theirs for your specific situation. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/samsung-install-finally-done-461001.html My furnace is a Suburban which does have essentially a zero clearance rating for heat. I lowered my furnace all the way to the floor, it was sitting on a wood platform ~1-5/8" off the floor. This gave me just enough to get the refrigerator to fit. After I confirmed it would fit I drilled new holes for the furnace intake/exhaust.

When I bought my Samsung RF18 the only other model that would have worked in my coach was the Fisker Paykal in the French Door type. Even though I had to do a lot of work to get the Samsung to work I did not want to spend that much money on a Fisher Paykal and deciced to take a chance on the Samsung. Since then GE has started making a fridge that actually is a little shorter then the Samsung. There are some top freezer models that fit but I didn't want that type. If you go to the AJ Madison site select the style of fridge you want and then counter depth. It will narrow the selection. Then select height, which is the critical dimension, going up in height to start seeing what choices you have. The taller the more choices.

After researching options I did decide to go with the Aluminum radiator from CG&J. These types of radiators are in all sorts of applications and an RV side radiator application is probably one that puts the less stress because of the mounting. In my case the radiator is suspended from the top. There is hardly any way there is any stress on the radiator and the rubber isolators provide for reduced bouncing/shock. For $2500 I was willing to take a chance on the radiator. I guess time will tell but so far so good.

While I was building our new house both my wife and I were looking for good deals. The key is to be patient. Nearly all of our appliances and fixtures were on clearance, I happened to stop in at a Lowes in a town near us in the early AM. They had just moved a French door in door LG refrigerator whose selling price was +$3K to the clearance section. Someone had run into both upper handles and the door in door would not stay closed so it was marked down to $300. I figured that the bent handle was causing the door in door not to stay closed. I bought the fridge and ordered 2 new handles for $125 and replaced. I also went through LG to get an extended warranty that Lowes would not offer. That was almost 2 years ago and the fridge is working flawlessly. Also bought a full size Fridgidaire for $650, still completely wrapped in shipping shrink wrap. We bought 3 name brand whirlpool tubs for ~$500, these were returned items but I was able to fix leaky jets and/or tear motor down and fix and installed all 3 in the new house. Wife bought a $1000 chandelier for $70. The list goes on. We literally saved +$20K by buying appliances and fixtures on clearance. Of course I then had to find match lights/fixtures to complete a room but such is life, we still saved money. Just pays to be patient if you can.

I did install a Samsung RF18, we had used it in our sticks & bricks while we were building it until we bought the larger units. It worked well during that time but I also know there have been a lot of bad reviews on the Samsung. One advantage was that I bought it on clearance at Lowes for $855. Since it served a dual purpose I figured it was worth the chance. I have not used it in the coach much at all so no idea how good it will be long term. Several years ago there was a discussion on the Yahoo Monacoer group regarding adding a second inverter. This is the one that was recommended and probably what I would use if I added a second inverter. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aims-1000-Watt-Pure-Sine-Inverter-Charger-Hardwire-Only/114082066069?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 This does have an internal transfer switch and can be plugged into shore power. The recommendation at the time was to use the block heater circuit. On my coach this circuit does have a separate breaker in the panel but also is controlled by a 12 volt to 120 volt relay with a switch on the dash. So could turn this portion on or off as needed. It would also serve as a secondary method for charging the batteries. This inverter is much more efficient then my Xantrex which I could leave off improving the overall battery drain/usage. I have not done this yet so this is just a suggestion. As to other refrigerators, first thing you will have to do is determine the size you can use. AJ Madison has a good filter to do this. Since I have a vested interest in this I monitor IRV2 for posts and one stated that " Almost all new fridges have variable speed dc compressors and will work on a MSW with no issues." https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/ge-or-whirlpool-refrigerator-on-modified-sine-wave-inverter-464596.html Since it on the internet it must be true

Doug, If you haven't had the cover off your service panel it may be worthwhile to do a general inspection and check all the wiring connections for tightness. Same thing with the transfer switch etc. As much moving and bouncing the coach does it pays to do this on a regular basis.

The cover for your panel shows a model 750 but the board itself shows a 760, so your system may have already been upgraded and you may only need the board. I upgraded from a 750 to a 760 board. There is a number stamped on the board, do a search and if you can find a compatible board it would indicated it's been upgraded. If you have all the circuits bypassed you could take your time on replacing the EMS board. As long as you limit your power consumption and/or use 50 amp shore power you don't need the EMS repaired immediately. Just depends on what you are comfortable with.

The EMS system is somewhat independent of the rest of the coaches electrical system. It simply controls the circuits it is wired to shed when it senses 30 amp shore power, in my case AC1, AC2, Water Heater, and Washer Dryer. It has a sense wire from the generator 12 volt circuit that tells it that the generator is running and that there is no need to shed power. You can simply disconnect the wires going to the EMS from each of the breakers it controls and then using the wires on the outgoing side wire them into the individual breakers. Make a schematic as to how everything is currently wired and take some pictures first. You can then replace the EMS board in the future. I had a lightening strike take out my EMS board, no visual damage so it was internal. It was winter and I needed only one AC unit so I bypassed the EMS system for that circuit. Took me about a week to get a new board, I actually had to upgrade since my board was obsolete. I got my board from M&M Electronics, they worked with me to confirm my board was bad and then provided me with the required parts to upgrade. More importantly they shipped to a destination I was going to be at!!!! From your picture you have the 750 model and it will have to be upgraded also, meaning new upgraded board, new load sensor, and new pigtails. Not a hard upgrade, just make sure to read the instructions. When I first wired mine in I accidentally switched the pigtail locations, luckily the board is protected so no damage done, just had to redo my mistake.

Glad it worked for you. If they got rid of the 2 step authentication I'm OK with that since this isn't a critical site for me. I have set up 2 step authentication on my banking & CC sites, these day's you can't be too careful.

OK, now were cooking with gas! Been on the phone for ~2 hours with + 6 more customer none service reps. This doesn't include the other times I been on the phone with other reps. On whim I decided to use a different browser to try and log in, since I had never used this browser before it didn't recognize my IP address or cookies. So I went through the Login process and it actually registered at which point I had to set up new security questions etc. I was able to go into my profile and input my new phone number etc. It will not let me set up this Sprint number to send pass code to, it has to be an ATT line. CRAZY. So I can log in using the different browser for now.

The set up a service ticket for me on Aug 10th, and said I would have a call back within in 4 days, Have yet to receive a call. You are correct in that ATT customer service isn't hitting on all cylinders (maybe 1 of 8). Very frustrating.

My mistake for not setting up Autopay for my ATT Mobley. I got my notice on Aug 8th as usual and tried to log in to schedule payment. ATT has now gone to a 2 step authentication method, whereby they send a code to the phone number on account. Problem is the phone number is for the Mobley device and they send it to there but the device does not receive. Hence I can't log into my account. I did do a phone payment to get my account settled. I've tried to log in several times without success. I have now talked to about 10 different ATT customer service reps (an I use that term lightly) with no success to date. They have had me try and sending me a code to access my account and it does not work. I have posted this on IRV2 and there are others having the same problem and no one has provided a solution. Anyone have any suggestions. Jim J

I had the opposite problem. A mud dabber blocked the nozzle at the front of my Jeep. When we had everything up and was doing the safety checks the brakes would not work. Ultimately found the blockage, cleaned it out and all was good. I also installed a brake light in the dash of the motorhome, I can tell the brakes are working. Yes a pain to wire but worth it.

In a case like this I would probably try to contact the manufacturer and get confirmation. Maybe someone else will chime in.

Do you have the model and SN of your AC unit. It may not have a reversing valve if it is not a heat pump.

Rick, Yes I think the relay is the Alt Fail relay. He did post a link the replacement alternator that he installed and I checked against my build sheet and it is the same one. If they did miswire it when it was first installed not sure if that could have caused a problem.