Dennis H

We leave the electric on all the time while we are hooked up to 50amp service. That said, the electric will only provide you with X amount of heated water. It's ok for military showers or washing dishes but we turn on the diesel for showers and doing the laundry. My wife likes 15 min showers in the morning and I like the stand up jacuzzi type showers so the diesel is necessary. The diesel burner is also necessary for the furnace if you're running that. As for the back lit switches...our AH has lighted switches to tell you they are on. If I turn on the rope light switch ALL the switches on that panel light up allowing you to see what each switch is for. This is especially handy in the bedroom which only lights up the panel. The window rope lights have their own switch as do the other lights including the mirrored ceiling ropes. It does makes a nice night light if necessary. While any electric usage will draw down your batteries, those lamps are milliamp lamps which IIRC draw less than 1 amp. Hope this helps.....Dennis

Not necessarily true. A hole in your muffler can allow gases to enter your vehicle, same as having your tailgate open on an SUV. Air flow doesn't necessarily flow parallel to the vehicle. Back drafting can pull the exhaust fumes into the cabin even while traveling down the road. You won't be using the dryer while in motion so air flow will most likely be flowing INTO the cabin instead of OUT.....Dennis

John, It's a pretty simple process. I've attached some pictures to help you. I don't have a video, but the pictures are numbered 1-6. Hope this helps. If you have more questions don't be afraid to ask. That's how we learn....Dennis Pictures: 1 Light fixture with cover removed. 2. Fixture with bulbs removed. The center rail is removed by squeezing it in the middle and pulling down. 3. Cover, bulbs and center rail 4. Fixture with cover, bulbs and center rail removed. 5. Wiring exposed. Blue circle shows black and white, (power and ground) Red circle shows screws to remove to take down the fixture. 6. Fixture with new LEDs installed.

Yep! Bad Ballast. Time to upgrade. I tried several types of LEDs and found the ones linked below to be the easiest and most effective in replacing the fluorescent bulbs. Simply remove the cover, then the middle metal plate. Remove all the wiring leaving only the positive and negative in the ceiling. Once the fixture is gutted simply stick two or three, (they are really bright) of the strips in and wire them up. Reinstall the fixture. I'd tape up two temporarily and check the brightness. If you want more use three. I use two in the hall and three in the bath where more light is desired....best of luck....Dennis LED replacement lights.

Yep! Rainy today so guess what I've been doing? Time to clean the floor grout. I've been wanting to get to this project for a few months now as the grout has lost some of it's luster what with the weekly cleaning and mopping. Deb asked me last summer how big a job I thought it would be. Well, today was my day! After watching several videos, it appeared a toilet bowl cleaner was the choice of the 'pros'...at least the video pros. Armed with the info, off to the market I went. Amazingly many of the stores were out or at least in very short supply of cleaning products period. Guess everyone is cleaner these days. Anyway, I stopped at my local Home Depot to pick up a grout brush. They carry two. A cheapie $3, and an expensive $8. I splurged and went big. Actually the 8 dollar one seemed more robust and I think it will do a better job with less elbow grease. While there, they have a grout cleaner made by ZEP. I bought a bottle of that too. On my way home I stopped at a Dollar Tree to see what they had and picked up a bottle of Awesome! Upon arriving back at the coach I tried both products and found that the $1 bottle of Awesome! worked a bit better than the $8 ZEP product! So today I cleaned all the tile in our coach. Spray liberally a small area, about 6 tiles. Let sit for a minute or so and start brushing. After a liberal brushing, wipe the tiles with clean water. Keep a pail with you and a clean rag. Then move on across the floor until you're done. I then filled another tub with clean hot water, added some food grade vinegar and scrubbed the tile again with a washcloth. I completed the process with another clean tub of vinegar water and a microfiber cloth to polish the floor to a beautiful shine. Meanwhile my wife was out getting her hair done and a manicure. She was pleasantly surprised at how clean the floor was. All in all it took me about 4 hours to complete the job. If you've been contemplating cleaning your grout, here are the items I used. For less than $10 bucks you can make your wife happy. Cheaper than MickeyDs!!!

Breakers can be different animals depending on what it does. The Cable Master system does utilize a 20 amp resettable breaker but not the kind found in the traditional breaker panel in the bedroom. Look in your rear run bay and you should see a resettable 20amp breaker there. If it hasn't reset, you may have melted it as well and it'll need to be replaced. Any auto parts house will have it in stock or you can get it at Amazon if you don't want to go out but don't mine waiting a day or two for it to be delivered. I've attached a picture for your reference. Your mileage may differ but it'll be close if not exact....Dennis

I found one in a California State Campground using this tester. We found the "Fake 50amp" receptacle was mis-wired. Upon pulling the pedestal apart, we discovered it didn't even have 50 amp service, simply a 50 amp receptacle wired with a "jumper" to Leg 2. And this was a STATE campground!.....Dennis

Appears it's a control board for the heater and components. Perhaps these people can help/guide you to a replacement part. The one you've listed is obsolete...but you probably already guessed that.... ...Dennis Servo Controller

Ivan, the point of the tester is so you can check the pedestal install BEFORE ever hooking up your coach. In that case the EMS is a non-issue. Most EMS systems would pick up an irregularity but then again you're going to potentially experience several things....your EMS would have to detect the irregularity and transmit that to you where you'd have to determine what was amiss....or the EMS would miss it and you'd fry some stuff in your rig. I'd rather check the pedestal BEFORE exposing my coach to any irregularities that may exist. Keep in mind what this tester tells you about the pedestal. One, voltage on BOTH legs, proper ground and open neutrals. It also will alert you to correct polarity at both legs. Cheap insurance as far as I'm concerned. A bonus has been when we camp host. You'd be surprised at how most RVrs handle their plug ins. Additionally, not every rig has a EMS system on board, in which case this would be an immensely valuable tool....hope this helps....Dennis

Here you go! The prices may be different as they are a few years old, but everything else should work.... 50 Amp Tester.pdf

Gotcha! Mine is in a cabinet on the passenger side in the bedroom next to the clothes closet. It vents through the side of the coach and is painted to match the graphics so it's hardly noticeable. Only thing I'd suggest is measure twice, cut once. It should be as straight a shot out as possible. Lint likes to catch on things and can present a fire hazard if not kept clean. Easy thing to forget about.....Dennis

See if this one fits your unit...Dennis Manabloc Part # 50602

I've found RV Parky to be one of the easiest and simplest to use. You can tailor it to your particular needs/wants/likes including free campsites, Wally Worlds, Fuel stops etc. not just pay to park RV sites. Take a look:....Dennis RV Parky

John, we originally "assumed" this was a new install. Is this assumption correct? If not, then the obvious question is whether your dryer is vented or ventless. There are both kinds but very different animals. You mention the cavity is totally enclosed. This would either indicate your dryer is ventless, again assuming it's a factory install. Please clarify. Did you abandon the hole you drilled in the cavity earlier?....Thanks ....Dennis

Pull the fuse for the radio and see if it goes away. If it does, then the radio is active when it shouldn't be. Mine runs through the Aladdin system and often it'll cross over when it's not supposed to. Electronic gremlins....Dennis

Almost any propane dealer will check your system for you for free. They won't check your lines but everything attached to your propane tank they'll check to ensure it's working properly. I'd start there and work backwards. You'll have a propane detector installed in the coach, usually on the baseboard below the cooktop. Make sure yours is working properly. They do have a shelf life and if you've never replaced yours in 16 years, it's past it's expiration date. Same goes for the bedroom carbon monoxide detector. Replace it too....good luck...Dennis

I believe it's more of a polycarbonate material. Mine is about 1/4" thick and black in color. Try contacting Chris or Ernie (links below) They should be able to tell you exactly what it's made of....Dennis Ernie Chris

Scotty, just a thank you for your time and efforts on keeping this site up and running smoothly.....Dennis

I had mine redone at C & C RV and Upholstery 9417 E. Main St. Apache Junction, Az. It was about 2k IIRC They ended up with about a three week lead time to order and get the leather I wanted. The driver's seat insides were destroyed. New insides and new covers, they look great and the comfort is excellent. The only thing they couldn't match was the Monaco emblem. Don't let the building fool you. I was hesitant when I saw the building but they came recommended by a friend so I went with it. I'm glad I did. They do excellent work. Took them several days once they received the materials at their shop....Dennis

Denny, thank you for "studying" the course.... 😁

My opinion....I would take the time to go and measure mine myself. Relying on someone else as to what they have may produce undesired results. For instance, I measured my OWN Velvac mirror bases and got replacements based on MY measurements. They didn't fit! Why? Because the radius was different! Who would have thought. Anyway, unless you have your build sheet, assuming it's accurate, you'll have your model number and an internet search will give you perhaps the accurate information assuming it was inputted correctly or more correctly described from the foreign interpretation of the spec sheet. There is nothing better than a yardstick in your own hand. It seems like you want to order a new system part for your coach which won't be installed until after the expiration of the return window if it's wrong. I wouldn't want to rely on what someone else has in their coach. Been there done that.....Dennis

The AH system has two modes, electric and diesel. Neither have anything to do with heating while underway. Each vent supply has it's individual blower which is pushes out the heat. If the electric switch is pushed the AH heats the water and maintains it relatively well allowing washing hands and sometimes dishes depending on how hot you need the water to be. You can even take military showers while it's on electric. Anything more demanding will require the diesel boiler to be fired. This includes long hot showers and running the furnace. While underway, the diesel boiler is bypassed and the AH draws it's heat exchange from the engine heat. In short, if your demand is minimal, electric AH is fine. If your demand is greater, then fire up the boiler which includes the furnace unless you're underway. If you're underway simply turning on the furnace option at the thermostat will allow the AH to do it's magic all by itself. No buttons to push.....Dennis

FWIW, HWH does use the Thomas Air Compressor, RAP6192. See pdf attached. That said, it does not give the specs for it so more research needs to be done. I would want to replace mine with one of equal specs. I don't know if Vito's link would be the proper specs or not. Perhaps a call to HWH is in order. I did verify this is the compressor they installed on my coach......Dennis HWH Compressor pdf

Monaco told me that pump cannot be repaired so they replaced it. I'm not sure if that's true or not as it was under warranty at the time. It's a bugger to get to as it sits above the rear axle. Later year models they moved it up front because of the annoyance of leveling as you slept. If I were having it fixed on my own dime, I'd most likely move the compressor to a more convenient spot say above the propane tank or in one of the aux bays. Where it is just doesn't make sense. I would not let La Mesa RV even LOOK at my coach, let alone REPAIR it. Just my experience. Once they get it in, you can forget about getting it back for at least a month or more....Dennis