Rocketman3

I am battling the wiper’s coming on by themselves issue. I think it due to the Smartwheel. When I clean the contact ring for the smartwheel and clean the all the connections - it doesn’t happen for a while. Then it starts happening again…. And the frequency increases until I clean everything again. Got so bad I would pull the fuse for the wipers. Let me know if you get it solved.

Here are a few tips (we full-time and boondock most of the time).mak The Victron Battery Monitors are GREAT! (Smartshunt or BMV712). Because all the power going back to battery runs through the shunt it is very accurate. If you plan on doing much boondocking this is required (in my opinion). It gives you the information to make proper decisions. Also you can figure out how many watts different items use. (For example - which lights are better (lower wattage). One of the most important helps is - should I run the generator and when to shut off the generator. Practice Boondocking in your driveway - Spend an evening in the rig with the lights on, etc. Plan your generator usage. If you plan on doing a LOT of boondocking - install a good solar system. (Ours is 1400w). Get out there and enjoy - then figure out what you need to change to help you enjoy it more.

At the Quartzsite RV show, I found a vendor that had an LED Motion light replacement. He had a Monaco and so had a base for his light that made it very nice and easy to install. Motion- Guard. The extra baseplate made it easy to install- nice and bright!

I have the Volvo plastic “football” surge tank that has gone bad again! It was replaced about 2 years ago… Then it went bad again… replaced it myself 6weeks ago. (Found it new a NAPA). Then today, I had my rig in to a mechanic- he said it’s leaking around the top. (Same place as last time!!!). Does anyone know of a another supplier? Or someplace than can build one from scratch… alum - steel - anything but plastic!

Just get a spare water pump, put “bleach water” in a 5 gallon bucket, then pump that water into your rig- through the hose. Then pump good water throughout to rinse.

If you full-time - next time you are needing batteries look at the Lithium batteries. They have three big disadvantages-cost, modifications needed & can’t charge below 32 F. They have several advantages: lighter, more power for the space,no absorbed time needed, are fine not being charged up. If/when you look at them- just look at the LiFePO4 chemistry- others are not safe for RV’s. Good luck with the fridge- to get you old grit out sawzall it in half - then the front door is plenty big.

If in doubt - get behind a full semi and just follow him up. When I was having overheating issues - often I would just follow a semi up on 3rd gear. In 4th my engine load (on my Silverleaf computer) would be 100% and I could pass semi’s. In 3rd and following a semi it was often about 60-70% load - but the RPM’s high which helped me keep the temperatures down. Your not in a race.

It has about 113,000 miles on it and 23 years…

The last several years my 2000 Dynasty kept overheating occasionally on Rocky Mountain climbs. I just slowed down and I could manage the temps ok. Then I noticed a repeat of a dirt clump on the lowest radiator (I thought that was the transmission cooler- but later on found out it was the fan/power steering cooler), I washed the clump off and it later reappeared - so I figured there was a small oozing leak there. - Time to get the cool pack replaced. (Did the CAC too). I knew I didn’t want to tackle that job, and who doesn’t like a trip to Oregon? So I had Source Engineering order the radiator into their shop. Those boxes are big! The right equipment to lift the rig. We were out of our rig only one night and they were done before noon. It was definitely time On our drive to the Oregon coast, the transmission temps were cooler. No big climbs yet… but I am sure the engine will run cooler on those when they happen. They did a good job. One other item they changed was OEM there was a big rubber flap on the rear of the radiator to seal the hot air from circulating around and going back into the radiator. They put up some sheet metal to accomplish the same thing. Which is great, I once had that rubber piece come off and the engine was getting too warm on a little climb. Expensive project, but I think it was worth it.

To operate the Pac Brake it just needs 12positive and 12v negative- oh and air in the air tank. in testing mine, I just brought a separate battery to the engine area and used that to operate it while oiling it up with the pac brake oil. Also, does anyone know where the relay is that operates the pac brake?

Also, after you get your batteries sorted out, (and bad ones replaced), you may want to give some consideration to a shunt based battery monitor. Voltage (even with agm batteries) is not a great indicator of how charged or discharged status. Which is why you need a shunt based monitor. I use the Victron Smartshunt (there are other manufacturers). Good Luck

Call Source Engineering in Oregon. 458-207-9442 Good Luck

I don’t know on your’s… But I do know some relay’s have a diode so when the coil collapses it doesn’t send voltage and current back into the computer. Maybe someone can enlighten both of us.

NAPA wanted much more than everyone else for my air filter (although they had it in stock), I ordered from Fleetguard (free shipping over a certain $$$ amount - the air filter covered it). Arrived in a couple of days (fedex or ups).

Because we boondock a LOT- we carry blocks to ramp the tires if needed. Often we will have the front wheels up 4” on blocks. Our auto leveling is completely messed up - can’t level on a level spot. We got a Level-Mate Pro. It is very nice because I can see on my phone how many inches each tire needs to rise. our parking procedures: Park - look at Level Mate Pro Add blocks if needed - once driven on the blocks. Slide Out (under full air). Jacks Down - front down first.

The prior owner has Yokohama tires 295/75r22.5 - RY023 Load H. Since I don’t know much about tires and Commercial Tires said “Yep that’s a good one and we have it available” - I got the same tire. I think it rides good - but what do I know. Good Luck!

Drive it 30 min or so at normal road speeds- sure. Do it once a month or so. Idle it in place - nope. That is worse than letting it sit. If you want to drive it - do it. But if you don’t- it won’t really hurt it. It does help a little- lubricants, tires, batteries, etc. This is just my opinions- I did not inherit any of my dad’s mechanical skills.

I have Flag Pole Buddy four 4’ poles on my Monaco ladder and of course I don’t have a flag… I have a StarLink on it. I put 2 poles up when no trees, etc are around, with more trees I go to four lengths. They have a nice bag that I believe holds 6 poles. No issues with wind - but if there is a storm near I often take it down.

Since installing my Lithium’s- solar and batteries has became a serious hobby for me. if you are getting Lithium’s make sure and get the LiFePO4 - lithium iron phosphate. Don’t get the used Telsa model S modules or make your own with other Lithium chemistries. Also make sure you have a good BMS (Battery Management System) setup. if you mistreat them they can have issues- so can lead batteries and propane systems and the gas and diesel fuel.

I replaced the two “salesman switch “ solenoids with two Victron smart BP-65 (battery protects). My reasons: 1. I never use the salesman switch to cut off power. 2. I wanted an automatic cutoff that would cut off power in case lights were left on with a low battery. 3. I wanted to keep the ability to easily turn the the furnace(etc) on and off to power cycle it. 4. Any most importantly the old solenoids used a lot of power - the new BP65 use almost no power - since we boondock a lot - this was important to us. Also I can read the voltage at that point on my phone. or you can just bypass them.

Another option… I eliminated the blue battery isolator. (Connected the alternator wire to the chassis battery wire - no connection to house battery wire). I have installed a bunch of solar (1400w) and lithium batteries for the house batteries. Thus I needed to “break” the electrical connection so the alternator could not charge the house battery. I did add a Victron Dc-Dc charger so when the engine is on it will slowly (30amps) charge the house battery if needed (and to the correct charging specs).

There is a guy in Texas, (he has a Monaco on this forum) that does flooring. The pictures I have seen look really good. we have been thinking about replacing our couch. I recently found that LoveSac has a “couch” that will fit my size well… One arm rest and two sections.

My 2000 Dynasty is a RR8S: My understanding: RR - stands for Roadmaster or Raised Rail 8 - is the number of airbags S - is for Side Radiator (R is for Rear Radiator).

My recommendation would be Victron. It is more expensive… but it works very well. I put it in my Dynasty- we full-time and boondock most of the time. It has been rock solid! But it may be overkill. One advantage of the Multiplus is the transfer switch and charger is built-in. The 2k unit has a low zero load watts of 9w (can go even lower with a search feature). Once setup it just runs. One thing I like with my Multiplus 12/3000 is when we overload it (we try not to - but it happens), the 120v power all goes out, then about 20 seconds later it resets and comes back on automatically with no issues.

I installed my Victron Dc-Dc charger in my rear run bay - I had both engine voltage and house voltage there. In big 4/0 cables - so it was a natural place for me to place it. Good Luck