dandick66

I had to put my coach in a storage lot for a few weeks. Unfortunately, there is no shore power available. At home I’ve have always had the coach plugged into a power source to keep the batteries charged. I was wondering if I should turn off the battery disconnect switches. Right now I have the AGS enabled to start if the batteries drop to 12.1 volts. I’m not sure if that’s the best solution. I am able to check it a couple of times a week. I just don’t know how fast the batteries will go down and if I should trust the AGS. Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT

Richard, That’s a beautiful coach. Congratulations on the purchase and I’m sure you’ll enjoy it. Dan

The motor should have a part number somewhere on it. Once you remove it you’ll be able to see it. Worst case, you may need to change out the squirrel cage. They are normally secured with an Allen screw. You may even have to swap out the backing plate. Hopefully, you’ll be able to find an exact fit replacement. Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT

Well, I installed the new Trimark keypad. Running the wiring harness from the dash wasn’t too bad, but in hindsight I think I would use a pin removal tool and take the pins out of the connector to make firewall penetration easier. Like Scotty, I was nervous about cutting a hole in the side of the coach. Trimark does not leave a very big sealing area around the hole. I took that into consideration when cutting the hole and actually cut it too small, so I had to enlarge it. Unfortunately, I made it a little too big and when I inserted the keypad it was a little loose. I probably could have used a sealant , but I decided to use a 3D printed bezel.

I have only tried to use my AGS one time and it didn’t start. I had assumed that I had the start voltage set too low (11.0 volts as recommended in the manual). Anyway, this week I decided to see if it works. I went to the AGS menu on the remote and executed a test. The generator started and ran for about a minute as it was supposed to. Next, I set the start temperature to 65 degrees and put warm air on the thermostat and watched the temperature rise above 65 and the generator started as it was supposed to. Next, I set the starting voltage to 12.2 volts. I let the batteries run down to 12 volts and the generator did not start. I called Magnum tech support and they had me do some troubleshooting and determined that my AGS board was bad. The part number is ME-AGS-N and the cost is anywhere from$200-$250. Magnum doesn’t sell direct to consumers. Well, as I sat around Friday night thinking about this board, I remember seeing 3 small relays on it. So, I went out and tapped on each relay a few times with a screwdriver handle. Sure enough, Saturday morning when the voltage dropped below 12.2, the generator started. Since then, it has started and stopped on low voltage for 6 cycles, so I think I “fixed “ the problem. I decided to get new relays and solder them onto the board, but the relays have been manufacturer discontinued with no compatible replacement. I found this hard to believe, since these are PCB mounted miniature 12 volt relays. I’ve attached a photo of the board. The relays are Potter and Brumfield T7NS5D1-12. TE Connectivity (formerly known as Tyco) are the ones who told me there is no replacement. I did find some relays on Amazon that I think will work so I ordered them. If anyone on here has an idea or opinion, please chime in. I am not 100 percent confident how long my “fix” will last. Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT.

I got my first replacement directly from REV. I think it was about $35. It stayed on for one trip, so I started looking at truck stops and chrome stores. Lots of people said to just take the hub cap and they can match it. I stopped at a bunch of different stores and no one could match mine. I finally made a cardboard template of my hubcap area, including the notches. What I finally found that worked for me was a 6 tab universal cover. I still had to take my Dremel tool and modify 2 of the notches l. I then took a small amount of silicone sealant and it holds great. I used Grand General part number 10770. Cost was $6.99. I actually made a spare, too, but have not had to use it yet. My coach is a 2012 Diplomat 43DFT. Roadmaster RR10R. Dan

Scotty, Thanks for the quick reply. That is exactly the way I was thinking of doing it, but I thought I’d ask first. Thanks again, Dan

Scotty, I ordered the keypad for my 2012 Diplomat and Trimark told me it is plug and play. Once I get it I’m going to plug it into the Trimark module and make sure everything works. I have a couple of questions for you regarding the installation. What tool did you use to cut the hole? What brand/type of foam sealant did you use? Thanks, Dan D, 2012 Diplomat

Here is a copy of my oil analysis report. I860527-JGLUBR88881286.pdf

I have had great experiences with JG labs. The owner is an RV’er and he is very knowledgeable and accessible. All reports are saved for trend analysis and they’ll let you know when to send another sample or change the oil. Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT, Maxxforce 10

I recently purchased the Micro Air thermostat for my 2012 Diplomat with 3 rooftop Coleman/Airxcel heat pumps and Aquahot. I installed the thermostat on a Saturday and could not get it working. I emailed Micro Air and they got back to me quickly. They had me do some troubleshooting and had me send it back to them. They sent me a new thermostat and installation went well, but I had an error in one of the zones. They did a firmware upgrade and the error cleared. I like the thermostat and do not have any complaints. I do have an observation I’d like to point out. The image of the thermostat in their ads makes the display look much larger than it actually is. The display is 2 in x 3 in. The touch screen is a little difficult to operate, but if using the app with a phone or tablet, everything is great. I bought this thermostat because I was having intermittent problems with the Coleman thermostat and the cost of the Micro Air is about the same as the Coleman. I didn’t want to take a chance on having the Coleman crap out on me and be without heat or air. I will keep the Coleman as a ready spare. I do wish I would have waited a few weeks so I could save the 15 percent!

If you have an old VCR or DVD player that has coax output just connect the output to the campground coax connector. Turn it on and you should get something on channel 3 or 4 on your tvs.

I purchased the Measy FHD676 wireless HD kit on Amazon a couple of years ago. The cost was about $120. It works fine, but I have had to reboot/reset a few times. I attribute that to the fact that we don’t use the motor home all the time. We are running it from the front to the bedroom. I know there are coax to HDMI converters for a lot less, but you might need to buy 2 of them since you will be converting HDMI to coax at the front and then changing from coax to HDMI at the remote tv. I also bought the Wally receiver since the remote uses RF instead of IR, so we can change channels from the bedroom. Running an HDMI cable is the best solution, but it might be a very difficult install. Dan

JJ, Thanks for the info. I will probably build a set next week. I know I have a leak under there somewhere. Now I’ll be able to safely look for it. Dan

Those ramps look nice. Do you have the lengths/dimensions for them? Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT

I have a 2012 Diplomat with a 100 gallon tank. Three years ago when returning from a trip the low fuel light came on. I told myself I had plenty of fuel to make it home. Well, about 1/2 mile from home I got a check engine light. I continued and made it home. The next day I went to move the coach and it stalled in the driveway. The code was for low fuel pressure. I added 5 gallons of fuel and primed the pump and all was well. I drove to the fuel station and it took 98 gallons. I will never push the limits again. One lesson I learned is that now I level the coach when I’m refueling. This makes a big difference in the amount of fuel you get in the tank. I figure it was about 10-15 gallons. Dan D

Like Richard said, it was/is from high iron content in the water supply. You can try soaking the filter canisters in a vinegar and water solution to remove the iron stains. Put new filter cartridges in and you should be good. As far as the toilet stains, you can try vinegar or CLR. Dan D

Steve, You might want to pump the brakes or open the air drain valve to lower air pressure. Then start the engine and go to the rear of the coach and listen for the burst of air when the dryer discharges. The desiccant cartridge will be where the burst of air came from.

Not sure if this will help or not. On my 2012 Diplomat, F29 is the fuse for the dash A/C. I’ve attached photos and you can see the relay for the affected circuit, too (VCN). There probably isn’t a lot of difference between your friend’s 2011 and my 2012 . Although it’s not specifically listed, it’s possible that the relay and /or fuse is tied into the dash power. I hope this helps. Dan D, 2012 Diplomat

I have the 400D model, so it only has 2 pumps and 4 zones. Pump 1 controls zone 1 and pump 2 controls zones 2,3, and 4 and is the circ pump for hot water. My front vents were blowing cool intermittently, or so I thought. I checked everything and could not find anything wrong. I changed the check valves and the fluid, too. What I finally found was that the wiring to the pumps from the AH control board were reversed. As long as all zones were demanding heat via the thermostat it worked fine. However, when zones 2-4 were satisfied and zone 1 demanded heat, the “wrong” pump would come on, but the “right” fans would come on. It’s a little difficult to explain, but just double check your wiring. Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT

About 6 months after I purchased my new to me 2012 Diplomat in 2017, I purchased an oil analysis kit that was in the clearance rack at Camping World. When I received the test report back it had a large red “stop “ symbol and indicated that my aluminum was at a critical level and the oil should be changed ASAP. I changed the oil and put in Shell Rotella T6 synthetic. After I changed the oil I did a lot of internet research on oil analysis. I found JG Lubricant Services and contacted them. I actually spoke to the owner and he is an RV’er. He told me I should send a sample in at about 2500 miles and get a good baseline to develop trend analysis data. I sent in a sample at about 2500 miles and my aluminum was 104 and was at “1” on a scale of 0-4, with 0-1 being normal, 2-3 above normal and 4 is critical. The report they send is online and contains more information than I can understand and it also has notes. Each time the note says to drive 2500 and submit another sample. My aluminum was at 64 for the last sample and I’m told that the high level on the original sample was possibly due to break-in. The engine only had 27,000 miles when I submitted the first sample. I’ve now gone close to 12,000 miles since the oil was changed and will submit another sample in about 2,000 miles. Once I get the report that indicates it’s time to change the oil, I will have developed my trend and will be able to submit samples less frequently. As far as synthetic vs Dino, my understanding is that synthetic is much better for cold weather starts. I have mixed feelings and will buy synthetic when I can get a good price, but still use Dino in some of my vehicles. I know there are some oils that have a high zinc content and they are recommended for older engines with solid lifters. I was surprised to see that Mobil 1 had a relatively high zinc content. Here is the link to JG Lubricant Services. https://jglubricantservices.com/home.html Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT, Maxxforce 10

On my 2012 Diplomat I was able to see the motor and get the manufacturer and part number. It was accessible from the front with the generator extended. I thought my motor was going bad, but I disconnected the linkage and greased it and everything works fine now.

To remove the drawer above, slide it all the way out until it stops. Then look at the slides and there will probably be a little plastic latch that stops the drawer. They will be in both sides. Move the latches and continue to pull the drawer out.

Congratulations on beating the cancer. I can’t help with the wiring diagram, but like CBR046 said, if the pressure is low, the compressor won’t kick in. Does your blower work? If so, the problem may very well be low pressure. It sounds like the coach hasn’t been used in 2-3 years and you probably have a leak. Since your coach is a 1994, you might still be using R12. If that’s the case, you will need to take it to a shop because R12 is no longer available. They will probably be able to do a R134 conversion. If your system uses R 134, you can pick up a can of refrigerant with a hose and gauge at an auto parts store or Walmart for about $30. It may not be enough refrigerant for the system, but it might be enough to get the compressor to kick in. Gd luck. Dan D

Here in the Communistwealth of Virginia when you take a vehicle in for inspection, the first thing they do is scrape the old sticker, then start the inspection. The thought process is that even though you had a current/valid inspection sticker that your vehicle is now out of compliance. I think the place you took it should give you your money back in the interest of good customer relations. If they don’t, let them know the internet has many followers… Dan D