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It finally happened, my alternator is dead


willbo777

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I guess after 12+ years and 161,500 miles it was a good run.  But yesterday I got a beep and a message "low voltage", managed to get the generator started right away, and was able to proceed to Oklahoma City, our destination for the night.  I know this has been discussed before, but I have found a rebuild/alternator shop that may even have my exact Leece Neville 200 amp alternator.  I'd appreciate any input.  If I can get the exact model, it would be quicker and easier to just replace and then later have the original one rebuilt, or should I get it rebuilt period.  And is there any reason I can't drive it this way all the way to the Atlanta area where we will be for nearly a month and have the luxury of time to deal with it.  Looks like I could get the alternator out myself although it does look like a bit of a job, this is on a DD Series 60.  All opinions are welcome.  Thanks in advance.

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We had the alternator replaced in our 2002 Monaco.  There was no exact match so they installed an "upgraded" alternator which required wiring changes . We were not given the option of rebuild.  The upgraded install blew the 12V board on our generator.  $5K later and a new 12V board we had the original alternator rebuilt and installed .  No issues since. 

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AJ Electric, new, perfect fit no issues.

I was in the automobile repair business for 40 years, rebuild means "I do the less possible, painted and send it out" 
Are you going to get back to that place if you are 600 miles away for warranty? Probably not and that is what they are hoping.

Buy it from AJ Electric (Amazon, or better off directly from them) and "if" you have a problem they warranty the part wherever you are.

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Rebuild

We do on our semis and rvs

Never had an issue.

 

Find a reputable shop.

Most citys like Columbus Ohio or parsons Kansas have a good rebuild starter, Alternators shop.

 

About $300. Is average cost.

 

I also carry a spare in the Monaco signature 

 

 

 

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Find a reputable shop, and ask them what it is their warranty when you are 400 miles away from their place.

47 minutes ago, CinBob said:

We had the alternator replaced in our 2002 Monaco.  There was no exact match so they installed an "upgraded" alternator which required wiring changes . We were not given the option of rebuild.  The upgraded install blew the 12V board on our generator.  $5K later and a new 12V board we had the original alternator rebuilt and installed .  No issues since. 

AJ electric sells direct replacement. I replaced on my coach, perfect fit.

It looks like I am getting something from AJ Electric don't I? 
I don't.

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Update, I talked to a rebuild shop here in Oklahoma City, and they actually had a rebuilt for $500, and said they could order the new replacement for $850.  I called Leece Neville which is now Prestolite and they confirmed the new part number is an exact replacement for the one I have.  Then, thank you Guillermo, I called AJ Electric and they had a brand new exact replacement for mine, same part number for $485!!!  And am second day shipping to me.  I am going to try to limp to Atlanta where I will have plenty of time to replace it, but if something goes awry on the way I will have it with me.  Thank you everyone for the help.  I will then have my bad one rebuilt and carry it as a spare.  I will followup in a couple weeks.

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Rebuilt alternators on Monaco products are the ONLY way to go. I bet 90% of 'new' alternator installs report issues. Don't know why and I am not trying to figure out why. I've always rebuilt a failed alternator and never have had any issues afterwards. Cheaper too....Your coach, your choice. YMMV.....Dennis

1 minute ago, willbo777 said:

Update, I talked to a rebuild shop here in Oklahoma City, and they actually had a rebuilt for $500, and said they could order the new replacement for $850.  I called Leece Neville which is now Prestolite and they confirmed the new part number is an exact replacement for the one I have.  Then, thank you Guillermo, I called AJ Electric and they had a brand new exact replacement for mine, same part number for $485!!!  And am second day shipping to me.  I am going to try to limp to Atlanta where I will have plenty of time to replace it, but if something goes awry on the way I will have it with me.  Thank you everyone for the help.  I will then have my bad one rebuilt and carry it as a spare.  I will followup in a couple weeks.

If you have 'issues', just run your genset. It should keep your batteries up enough for you to get to your destination.....Dennis

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I have been running my generator for the last 700 miles and it is working.  I just want to make clear the alternator I ordered is the exact duplicate of my alternator.  I am expecting it to work fine, although I am a bit worried as to all the bad comments about replacing, although I also read that a lot of the complaints and problems come from replacing with a new one that is not a duplicate of the original.  I'll let you all know when I get it done.

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Although I am in the camp that advises rebuilding your existing alternator, if you can get one that is the EXACT same part number, that would surely work.

There are two issues with replacing the alternator.  #1 is if you have a DUVAC (remote voltage sensing) alternator.  #2 is the tachometer output.

#1--The DUVAC alternators were only necessary on the earlier coaches which had a solid-state isolator.  To charge properly, the alternator had to "reach around" the SSI and read the ACTUAL voltage AT THE BATTERY.  That was the function of the additional wire that ran from the alternator directly to the battery terminal.  Without that remote sensing, the alternator would see the voltage on the input side of the SSI and adjust charge rate accordingly.  The charging voltage AT THE BATTERY (output of the SSI) would be about 0.7 volts LOWER.  Therefore, the charging voltage AT THE BATTERY would never go as high as needed to fully charge the battery or to charge it reasonably quickly.  The additional sensing wire (the feature that makes the alternator DUVAC) remedied that problem.

#2--The replacement alternator required a tachometer output signal.

IFF you replace the trouble-prone SSI with a setup like the Blue Sea ML-ACR and make a direct connection from the alternator charging terminal to the battery, you no longer require a DUVAC alternator, but still need a tachometer signal.  One knowledgeable alternator rebuild shop I talked to said the tachometer output signals were all similar, since regardless what pulley was on the alternator, if the system was properly designed, all alternators would spin at similar RPM, and that if the tachometer required calibration it could be easily done at the tachometer itself, or in some cases, on the alternator.  He said he had never seen a variation of more than 10%.  I've never verified the tachometer adjustment he described, but several folks have replaced their SSI and installed a non-DUVAC alternator.  One of those folks is Paul Whittle, who was the originator of the ML-ACR swap.  I believe he replaced his alternator with a Delco 28si, which had a tachometer output.  Once that swap is made, should you ever need an alternator, there are lots of choices available that will work perfectly.

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I had my alternator rebuilt about 7 years ago with no issue, cost was $185 and they did it overnight.  I called the purchasing department where I use to work and asked them where they sent their stuff to be rebuilt and that's who I used.  If you do replace with new you might consider having your old one rebuilt and carry as a spare.

One thing to watch is that when I changed mine I shut off all the battery disconnects but when I checked the "+" lead for voltage I was still showing some coming in.  Finally found that my solar panel was providing the charge so I just pulled the fuses.   I marked all the wires and made a schematic on their location.   It's tight quarters when trying the install the new one and wire it, I had just enough wire to loosely attach the the wires to the alternator and then swing it back into place and install it.  I then tightened all the wires. 

 

There was a recent post on an individual who was on his 3rd "new" alternator and there was a problem where it kept blowing the DUVAC fuse.  He finally decided to take it to a shop but never did hear what the final cause was assuming he got it fixed.

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Recently replaced my alternator. I found the best price at Quality Power. I decided to replace my 160 amp Leece Neville with a 200 amp Delco Remy 28SI. The install was fairly simple (I have a side radiator)  except on the DR you don't connect the excite wire since it is self exciting. I had my old LN rebuilt and carry it as a spare.

https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/category_139/RV-Alternators.htm

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Follow up.  I ordered an exact replacement alternator from AJ Electric.  They were very professional, very fair priced, and amazingly quick to ship, an hour!  My wife and I replaced the alternator.  I did learn a few things.  Turning off the battery switches only removes some of the power, I needed to remove the neg cables off my house and chassis batteries, and pull the solar fuse, once dead, it was a straightforward job, heavy and unwieldy, not difficult.  One glitch though, I could not get the pulley off the old one with the tools I had, so I went to a nearby alternator shop and they pulled it for me, after that easy.  It is all in and working perfectly, I have driven 3 days with it, about 1000 miles.  I am still debating rebuilding the old one, or just plan to get a new one if this one fails, but since it took 12 years and 162,000 miles for the first one to fail, I'm probably safe.

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  • 8 months later...

Update on the alternator.  As I posted my first went out at 162,000 miles, I replaced it with a new one from AJ Electric.  At 1500 miles or so, the new one quit as I was going through the middle of Atlanta traffic.  We were going to a campground in Atlanta, so I contacted AJ Electric in North Carolina about warranty.  We pulled the bad new alternator and drove 160 miles to his shop where he confirmed the failure, and replaced it under warranty, but said maybe I had a problem with my coach?  I said nothing had changed since I have owned the coach, it has new chassis batteries, so I had no idea what it could be if anything.  We went back and replaced the alternator, drove it back to Florida, installed a Blue Sea ML-ARC, and then in the spring left for our normal travel, and today in the middle of Montana it quit again, 6000 miles later.  I am extremely frustrated.  Right now I am between Great Falls and Helena, and plan to be in Missoula for a couple weeks in about 2 weeks.  I can limp along with the generator if need be.  But of course Murphy is active and my 10 kw Onan is surging occasionally.  Going to replace the fuel filter tomorrow.  I called an alternator shop in Great Falls just before they closed and they do not rebuild Leese Neville, and didn't know of anyone that does in this area.  I am sorry now I didn't rebuild my old one.  Any suggestions, opinions, ideas, any would be much appreciated.

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If you are in a pinch and have couple of weeks...  besides buying an other one. Any idea what keeps failing? In the past I bought parts on the web and fixed ours, if you are up to it. If someone else can do it, we can usually too. The only hard part could be removing the front pulley but yours sounds pretty new. There should be a file in the alt section I believe or I could look it up in my archives probably.

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I don't normally shy away from doing most things myself, although I have never done anything with an alternator.  Not sure how to test it or see what is wrong.  The guy I just spoke to in Great Falls says getting parts for Leece Neville is a bear so most just order them in.  It's a weekend so my hands are tied, but it looks like there is a battery, alternator, and electric place in Missoula.  I may have to wait until I get there in a couple weeks.  I'll look in the files.  Thanks

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