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We bought our 2002 Windsor 40PBT in 2012 and have never changed the air filter!  I have constantly monitored the indicator and it has never shown needing replacement.  I was told by a reputable source that the filter should be changed every 2 years, regardless of what the indicator says.  I respect the opinions of the folks here and would appreciate your input.

1.  Should I replace it ASAP?  If so, what is the correct part number?

2.  Should I replace the indicator?  If so, what is the correct part number?

3.  Can I do the replacement myself?  If so, what is the correct procedure?

Thank you for your help!  👍

Joe

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Yes.  Definitely replace it.  The glue holding the filter medium together deteriorates over time.  

Your owners manual will have the part number, but you may have to cross it over.  I buy them online.  I think the Filter Barn had a good price, but I always shop around.  

They have large hose screw clamps on each end to connect the hoses and 2 band clamps holding the filter to the coach.  It usually sits side to side over top of the engine.  Easy access on a side radiator.  

Edited by vito.a
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Joe, I also suggest you change it. If the monitor hasn't changed much over the time you owned the coach, it is probably faulty. 

My ISC 350 takes the following filter: Fleetguard AH8503 

It measures 23.5" x 10.5" and the can and filter are an assembly and are replaced at once (try Amazon).

I don't necessarily agree with general replacement every two years but it certainly can't hurt. A "dusted engine" may result from a bad or no filter and you are then looking at significant turbo and piston/cylinder damage. While you're at it, the monitor should be made to work if it is broken.

 

-Jamie

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I found the list of filters in my Monaco owner's manual.  They say it is a Donaldson EBA09-2037.  When I Google that number it brings up internal filters only.  The manual says it it a sealed unit. ???

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Joe,

I depend on the Air Filter Minder aka Informer to let me know when to change the air filter. I don't go on time or mileage.

If your Informer has not moved at all, chances are that it will not hold a vacuum and it is probably toast. You can have it tested but it just as easy to replace it or have it replaced.

I keep an eye on the Air Filter Minder/Informer whenever I open up the engine cover. If it gets to where the red flag is in the window 15-25 range or so I reset it back. Once the red flag gets back to the same spot it's now time to replace the air filter.

I had to replace mine this past April as I forgot to put it on the PM list for the guys at the shop who did my engine service earlier in April. It's not difficult but mine required two people to get the new one in and positioned correctly due to the position of the air intake hose. One working from the back of the engine and one working from the bedroom area.

First loosen the clamp holding the 7 inch intake pipe at the rear of the filter and remove the pipe off of the intake side of the filter. Then loosen the clamps holding the rubber reducer boot in place. Make sure to loosen both ends of the boot. Then slide the boot towards the turbo back onto the metal pipe. Now unlatch the two HD clamps that hold the filter in position.

Now you are ready to wrangle the air filter out the back end of the engine.

Take a CLEAN rag and wipe out the end of the rubber boot and metal pipe. Make sure you don't introduce dirt INTO this area.

Installation is just the opposite.

Slide the air filter into its location. Now here is where two people are helpful. While one is moving the air filter the other can be wrangling the rubber boot back onto the output of the air filter. Once in position you can now engage the two HD clamps that hold the filter in position. Adjust the rubber boot back into its correct location on the air filter. Then tighten the two clamps at each end of the rubber boot. Lastly slide the 7 inch air intake hose onto the input side of the air filter and tighten the clamp.

I purchased a new Donaldson P537448 Air Filter from Amazon for $155 with free shipping. https://tinyurl.com/53d87ash

As for the Air Filter Minder/Informer mine is a Donaldson Informer but I don't remember what model. All you have to do is match it up with what you have already.

https://www.donaldson.com/en-us/engine/filters/products/air-intake/accessories/filter-service-indicators/standard-indicators-gauges/

I would also check to see if your air line is leaking causing the informer not to work correctly.

Edited by Dr4Film
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Driving conditions can determine the chang to new timing

 

Dusty conditions in Texas, Oklahoma or Kansas can plug an intake filter much faster than maybe Ohio,  Kentucky or North Carolina 🤔

 

I  inspect mine every 6 months 

I also have a air filter and fuel filter minder that I look at.

Regardless 

I won't go over 3 years with the air filter because of deterioration and humidity. 

Yes

You can easily change all your filters yourself 

And you should.

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Joe, I learned the hard way that the manual is incorrect on their listing of the air filter. Luckily I could return the wrong one - the one the manual said to use. Best you look at the pictures of the Fleetguard AH8503 and see if it looks like yours. If so, you cannot open the can and insert a new filter. It is a crimped (non-serviceable) assembly with a filter, enclosure can and entrance and exit ports.

-Jamie

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Never used them so don't miss them. Many other places to buy quality filters at reasonable prices. I for one use Amazon for almost everything IF they have it and it is not a knockoff. Providing that the shipping is free and returns are free.

I have helped Bezos become a multi-billionaire.

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I change my air filter every 3 years. I did have one instance where I changed it after a year because of some bad dusty conditions I got into.

Changing a filter is straight forward and fairly easy but you have to pay close attention to making sure you get a good seal. My son uses a small amount of Boeshield T-9 to help it slip over the intake housing and promote sealing.

Unlike gas engines, a diesel engine sucks massive amounts of air during operation. Because of this you can dust an engine off in a heartbeat if you do not get a good seal. I have had 2 customers who both dusted off their 400 ISL's because of an improperly sealed air filter. Both times were done by a mechanic who got the air filter cocked and not properly sealed in the housing. One of the dust off's occurred after 30 days of use. Dirty air injection in a diesel can ruin it real fast. I might add that an in frame rebuild for a 400 ISL is currently around $ 22,000. It pays to make sure your filter is set correctly and is air tight. Take your time and double check the seating of the filter.

I remember a Cummins spokesperson at the Gathering one year discussed air filter changes and said 3 years was max. He also said to get away from annual filter changes and stick to every 2 years. I have a brand new air filter sitting in my workroom I am going to be tossing out. It is 8 years old and for the life of me I cannot remember where I got it. It is still in a bag and in the original box but I am not going to risk using it. I have so many dang parts for my coach laying around I end up forgetting where I got them and worse yet I forget I even have them. Many came off the old Monaco parts truck they used to take to rally's. They used to give amazing deals off the back of that truck. I have 3 brand new air control valves with a receipt for $ 60 for all 3. I have a huge bag of those gold cabinet door spring hinges I got off the parts truck. The receipt said $ 1.50 each. I sure miss that parts truck. 🙂

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7 hours ago, throgmartin said:

I change my air filter every 3 years. I did have one instance where I changed it after a year because of some bad dusty conditions I got into.

Changing a filter is straight forward and fairly easy but you have to pay close attention to making sure you get a good seal. My son uses a small amount of Boeshield T-9 to help it slip over the intake housing and promote sealing.

Unlike gas engines, a diesel engine sucks massive amounts of air during operation. Because of this you can dust an engine off in a heartbeat if you do not get a good seal. I have had 2 customers who both dusted off their 400 ISL's because of an improperly sealed air filter. Both times were done by a mechanic who got the air filter cocked and not properly sealed in the housing. One of the dust off's occurred after 30 days of use. Dirty air injection in a diesel can ruin it real fast. I might add that an in frame rebuild for a 400 ISL is currently around $ 22,000. It pays to make sure your filter is set correctly and is air tight. Take your time and double check the seating of the filter.

I remember a Cummins spokesperson at the Gathering one year discussed air filter changes and said 3 years was max. He also said to get away from annual filter changes and stick to every 2 years. I have a brand new air filter sitting in my workroom I am going to be tossing out. It is 8 years old and for the life of me I cannot remember where I got it. It is still in a bag and in the original box but I am not going to risk using it. I have so many dang parts for my coach laying around I end up forgetting where I got them and worse yet I forget I even have them. Many came off the old Monaco parts truck they used to take to rally's. They used to give amazing deals off the back of that truck. I have 3 brand new air control valves with a receipt for $ 60 for all 3. I have a huge bag of those gold cabinet door spring hinges I got off the parts truck. The receipt said $ 1.50 each. I sure miss that parts truck. 🙂

Sent you a PM

Well, I think I have the problem solved!  The Donaldson P537448 is the replacement I need, and I am ordering it from Amazon.  The intake hose split in two places when I tried to get it off!  After a LOT of searching I found an industrial hose wholesaler about 65 miles away that has the 7" ID wire-reinforced hose and will sell me what I need for about $46.  

Thanks to all of your for your help!  🙂

Joe

 

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Joe, I replaced my cracked 7 inch intake hose back in 2019 with the same product that I had found on eBay. It was sold by the foot and for my installation I needed two feet. It was $11.50 per foot with $18 shipping.

This is what I purchased. 7''ID RFH HOSE/DUCTING BLACK THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER WIRE HELIX, Sold by The Foot

Here is the current vendor on eBay that is selling the same product for $5.75 per foot and about $20 shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254178319698?hash=item3b2e355d52:g:iqoAAOSwYvFZGxP1

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1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Joe, I replaced my cracked 7 inch intake hose back in 2019 with the same product that I had found on eBay. It was sold by the foot and for my installation I needed two feet. It was $11.50 per foot with $18 shipping.

This is what I purchased. 7''ID RFH HOSE/DUCTING BLACK THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER WIRE HELIX, Sold by The Foot

Here is the current vendor on eBay that is selling the same product for $5.75 per foot and about $20 shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254178319698?hash=item3b2e355d52:g:iqoAAOSwYvFZGxP1

Thanks Richard!  I just ordered 3' of it and that saved me a few bucks, plus I don't have to drive 130 miles to get it! 👍

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3 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Joe, I replaced my cracked 7 inch intake hose back in 2019 with the same product that I had found on eBay. It was sold by the foot and for my installation I needed two feet. It was $11.50 per foot with $18 shipping.

This is what I purchased. 7''ID RFH HOSE/DUCTING BLACK THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER WIRE HELIX, Sold by The Foot

Here is the current vendor on eBay that is selling the same product for $5.75 per foot and about $20 shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254178319698?hash=item3b2e355d52:g:iqoAAOSwYvFZGxP1

Richard, since it looks like this hose is not smooth inside, was there any problem getting the clamps tight enough to no air escapes around them?

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Joe, I used the original special clamp that came from the factory and installed it the same way as they did. You don't want to over tighten the clamp causing it to distort the intake of the air filter. Besides it's the output side that is VERY important to make sure it is completely sealed. Not so important with the input side as the air filter will still do its job.

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1 minute ago, Dr4Film said:

Joe, I used the original special clamp that came from the factory and installed it the same way as they did. You don't want to over tighten the clamp causing it to distort the intake of the air filter. Besides it's the output side that is VERY important to make sure it is completely sealed. Not so important with the input side as the air filter will still do its job.

Mine just has the stainless steel hose clamps, like you would buy at Lowes, etc.  .  Guess I'm looking for problems where where are none!  Thanks!

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For those of you that have been around from the start like I have might remember in the mid 2000's that Monaco installed a smaller air filter on some coaches from the Windsor down.  That mistake was caught by Bill D.  Be sure to check the size and model air filter in your manual against what is on your coach.

Chuck B 2004 Windsor

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It sounds like the original question has been answered, but I just can’t help weighing in here…

1. If all systems are operating properly, the Filter Minder will tell you when to replace your filter.  This is especially good when operating in dusty conditions. 
 

2.  Most failures in the filter / Filter Minder system are going to cause the Filter Minder to indicate all is well…

 - if the filter minder itself is broken and just indicates all is well all the time  

 - if there’s a leak in the hose to the filter minder, it won’t generate enough static pressure to move the indicator  

 - if the filter glue or filter media is breaking down, or the filter is not seated properly, it generates a lower static pressure, and the Filter Minder will indicate all is well.  THIS is your worst-case scenario, because the air is not being filtered properly, but you think it is. This could result in a dusted engine and $$$$! Repairs.  
 

So in light of that, my advice would be:

1. If the Filter Minder indicates you need to change it, then change it.  You have high static pressure, which indicates the filter is dirty or otherwise clogged.  
 

2. If you haven’t changed it per the intervals in your owners manual, change it!  Mine says every two years.  Your manual may have a different interval. 
 

At the end of the day, air filters are relatively cheap compared to other coach maintenance items.  Your Filter Minder is ONE way to know you DO need to change the filter. But not the definitive answer. 
 

I’ll leave it with this… if you change the air filter too often, what harm have you done other than a minor dent in your wallet?  If you don’t change it soon enough, you may end up rebuilding a dusted engine (according to my sources - @throgmartin - about $20k). I can’t speak for anyone else, but that would hurt my feelings and my wallet.  …and my DW would be very unhappy because we couldn’t use the coach for an extended period!
 

As with all things RV related, your mileage may vary…

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Check my thinking on this, concerning the clamps.  If there is a small air leak around the clamps on the intake side then any dirt that gets sucked in will still have to go through the filter, so no danger to the engine.  I'm thinking I will just use standard hose clamps on the new intake hose.  Am I missing something here?

Joe

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