Fuel gauge not working

[Chuck B 2004 Windsor]

7 minutes ago, Steve P said:

I have seemingly no control over how my phone and the forum software interact.   If I can login to the post from my laptop and rotate the pics, I will do so... otherwise, maybe turning off autorotate on your phone and zooming might work?

Using a laptop to read the posts.

[Tom Cherry]

13 hours ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

Using a laptop to read the posts.

Guys,

I fixed the issue.  It is difficult to assist when the photos are not oriented.  Typically, most phones have an EDIT function where you can rotate them. Googling "Edit photos on iPhone" or substitute Google Phone or Android will give you the information.  There are also some free apps that will do that.

Let's stay focused on the issues.  

EDIT....I also merged this topic with an ongoing one that is very informative.  Scroll back and read the comments.

Richard (DR4..) is correct. There will or could be generic fuses power a variety of items....such as the Gauge Cluster.  In addition, if you have prints or download them, then look for the instrument or gage cluster or maybe even the "Fuel Gauge".  I doubt you will find it marked....but you never know.

I would recommend a VOM using the Continuity setting and probing the top "test slots" for each fuse. That is the ONLY GOOD WAY.  Pulling and Looking will drive you crazy. You can also use a Test Light and ground out the lead and use the probe and test BOTH sides....BOTH should have power if the Fuse if OK.

Good Luck...

[jacwjames]

I looked at my chassis wiring schematic and the fuel sender is tied in with the IGN circuit  (not the Key Ign).  I could see a fuse specifically for he fuel sender,  If I'm reading the schematic correctly there is an inline 5 amp fuse at the alternator labeled IGN. 

But if the rest of the gauges are working I doubt it is that fuse issue. 

[Steve P]

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

I looked at my chassis wiring schematic and the fuel sender is tied in with the IGN circuit  (not the Key Ign).  I could see a fuse specifically for he fuel sender,  If I'm reading the schematic correctly there is an inline 5 amp fuse at the alternator labeled IGN. 

But if the rest of the gauges are working I doubt it is that fuse issue. 

Thank you... I think you meant you could NOT see a fuse specifically for the fuel sender... nor can I find one.  And all the other gauges work.  So since I have 1 volt between Neg and Pos, maybe it's a wiring problem, a bad connector, or a bad ground.  I guess I'll start chasing that gremlin after I talk to Centroid tomorrow. 

[Scotty Hutto]

Old thread, but for those who may see it in the future, my fuel sender fuse is in the “Monaco 2” fuse box in the front run bay (FRB). It isn’t listed in the “big” panel in the FRB. 

Unfortunately, that wasn’t my problem, so the troubleshooting begins…

[Steve P]

Same here... haven't wanted to get diesel everywhere so I've postponed several times.  I wish there were an aftermarket float that works... do truckers put up with this? 

[Just Jim]

I also have a gauge showing full.  I've looked a couple times and can't even find the sending unit on my tank.  Taking a short trip this weekend, so I'm going to look one more time for it before I head out.  At least this time I have the tank full to the top.  I should be good for a 150 mile trip.

[Dr4Film]

Your fuel sending unit will be on TOP of the fuel tank. Look for a device with many wires attached to the top. It is most likely a Centroid sender unit.

http://www.centroidproducts.com/

[Tom Cherry]

FWIW….a lot of people never depend on their gauges.  You should the tank size in the manual or maybe some can tell you.  Check your MPG for a few tanks.  Say a 100 tank and 8 MPG.  Never run the MH lower than 25%…or 600 miles between fill ups.  If you use your Genny, then don’t go lower than 40%….the genny pickup is higher.  480 Miles.  Figure one gallon per hour (that is a high number…I KNOW), but use it.  Say, you drive 600 miles….highway…so that would be 10 hours….therefore the REAL full time genny would be 50%….or 400 miles.  Follow that rule…and you are good to go.  
 

One thing….if you get bad fuel, then you have less to treat (I carry a couple bottles of Starbrite Startron Diesel fuel additive….get enough to “double treat” a full tank…).  Also, if DP are new to you, most of us use JF BioBor as an algaecide….ALL THE TIME….every fill-up…. Fix, if you want to, the gauge, but if you keep records like I do, just use a trip-minder (if you have it) or a steno pad (yes…I go that far back) and log in the critical miles and gallons and dates andMPG and fill up when the book says….or use the 400 mile rule…

[Guest Ray Davis]

5 hours ago, Just Jim said:

I also have a gauge showing full.  I've looked a couple times and can't even find the sending unit on my tank.

Jim,  If your Executive is like my Windsor, and I think it is in this regard, your sender unit is accessible on the pass side behind the fuel filler door panel.   Under the bottom edge of that panel are 2 straps with screws that hold the panel closed.  Remove those screws and the panel will lift like the bay doors do.  The fuel sender is a round hockey puck-looking thing with wires.  A number of screws hold it in place, it will lift out.  Label the wires, it's important.  The sender is electronic and I've found tinkering with it, cleaning, etc never worked.  

I have thought of installing one of these if I can determine which ohms I need.        Amazon.com: KAOLALI Fuel Gas Sender Stainless Steel Fuel Sending Unit Marine Water Level Sensor Boat Fuel Tank Sending Unit for Car RV Truck Vehicle 240~33ohm 450mm(17.72") : Automotive     

https://www.amazon.com/KAOLALI-Stainless-Sending-Vehicle-240-33ohm/dp/B09LLYTBVL/ref=pd_ybh_a_sccl_49/140-7184880-5212025?pd_rd_w=BE8tz&content-id=amzn1.sym.67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_p=67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_r=GWHJ1NFZ92VQJK3MBDME&pd_rd_wg=QCge0&pd_rd_r=8b2d0454-714e-4dae-aa8d-f00718019da0&pd_rd_i=B09LLYTBVL&th=1

[dl_racing427]

I had the same problem with my Centroid sender reading full as soon as the fuel sloshed about a bit.

I replaced mine with a standard float sender, and it works well and is fairly accurate.

You should be able to look up the number on the centroid unit, find out the ohm range of it and get a float type with the same range.

[cbr046]

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

FWIW….a lot of people never depend on their gauges.  . . . . Say, you drive 600 miles….highway…so that would be 10 hours….therefore the REAL full time genny would be 50%….or 400 miles.  Follow that rule…and you are good to go. 

Or you can do like I did and just run it until out of fuel and record the mileage.  NOT RECOMMENDED!  I filled up in OK and ran out in AL 52 miles short of my scheduled stop, which had a 150 mile buffer scheduled in.  The gauge, which had been working well until now, showed 3/8 tank.  WHY DID I RUN OUT?  When I filled up in OK there was a lean to the left creating a large 20 gal air bubble in the tank.  Now when I fill up I'll either use the jacks to create a lean to the right or I'll fill up from the right side. 

- bob

[Just Jim]

Well even a blind pig finds an acorn once in a while.  Found the sending unit this time.  It is behind about 3 different pick up lines going into the tank... I think they are the aqua hot, engine and genset pick ups.  Anyway, at least I found it.  I'm going to do some testing on it to try and determine if its the sender or the gauge or something in between.  I've seen the Holley unit on other threads.  Curious if anyone has used this as a replacement for the Centroid?  Its not bad at $100.

https://www.holley.com/products/gauges_and_gauge_accessories/gauge_accessories_and_harnesses/parts/19-250

[Guest Ray Davis]

1 hour ago, Just Jim said:

Well even a blind pig finds an acorn once in a while.  Found the sending unit this time.  It is behind about 3 different pick up lines going into the tank... I think they are the aqua hot, engine and genset pick ups.  Anyway, at least I found it.  I'm going to do some testing on it to try and determine if its the sender or the gauge or something in between.  I've seen the Holley unit on other threads.  Curious if anyone has used this as a replacement for the Centroid?  Its not bad at $100.

https://www.holley.com/products/gauges_and_gauge_accessories/gauge_accessories_and_harnesses/parts/19-250

I saw the Holly sender and thought this was the perfect answer but then I read that it would not work for us.  I can't remember why at the moment.  If you find that it will I would sure like to hear about it.

[Just Jim]

Anyone know if our gauges are electronic?  The Holley website says it will work with any electronic gauge.  I'll do some checking to make sure it is compatible before I order one.  I'm hoping I can find a loose ground or some other simple fix.

[dl_racing427]

3 hours ago, Just Jim said:

Anyone know if our gauges are electronic?  The Holley website says it will work with any electronic gauge.  I'll do some checking to make sure it is compatible before I order one.  I'm hoping I can find a loose ground or some other simple fix.

The Holley sender says it outputs a PWM voltage signal.
If your current sender has 3 wires, I suspect it will work, and can be setup for your existing gauge.
If you only have 2 wires on the sender, it's an "ohm-only" as Holley calls it, and their sender won't work.

I don't recall which mine was, but I used a conventional float type sender.  Probably cost under $20 at the time.

[Guest Ray Davis]

20 hours ago, cbr046 said:

The gauge, which had been working well until now, showed 3/8 tank. 

That is my complaint with Centroid,  mine didn't completely stop working, It began to lie to me until I realized it, and now I don't dare look at it.   I still want a fuel gauge, so I'll fix it when the heat lets up.

[Scotty Hutto]

Just to pile on… during my recent 6,000 mile RV trip, my fuel gauge stopped working about 1,000 miles into the trip. It’s always been very accurate… the rest of the trip I calculated fuel use and kept my tank at 1/2 (50 gal) or more. Got pretty good at it 😁

Email the form to Centroid and worked through troubleshooting (via email) with Joel in tech support. I learned a lot… MOST reading problems can be corrected by working with them.  In the end, my electronics in the head were bad (they are conformal coated and sealed in epoxy, so no repair), so I replaced it. Here’s a link to the form used:

http://www.centroidproducts.com/zTroubleshootingMonaco.pdf

The good news is a new sender was only $169, and the new ones are self-calibrating and more accurate (hey, technology does improve over a 17 years period. Sometimes). Bought it here (note: I didn’t link to my specific sender, because yours is likely different unless you have a 2006 Diplomat)

https://rveliteparts.com/search?type=article%2Cpage%2Cproduct&q=Centroid*

Installed it today and all works well. 

[Paul J A]

On 8/19/2021 at 1:14 PM, Norman Austin said:

Holiday Rambler Neptune 2004

I had a mechanic check why my fuel gauge isn't working. He says that both the sender and the gauge in the dash are bad.

Does anyone know where I can find a sender unit and possibly a replacement gauge? I need the sender unit but I could fit an after market gauge if necessary.

 

Also the generator doesn't start though it did start when I bought the coach last month. I wonder if it uses a separate battery from the chassis batteries. I'm a total newbie trying to find out the ins and outs of this machine.

 

Thanks guys.

Norman

http://www.centroidproducts.com/