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Does anybody know what this is I have one on each side of the drive axle. 2006 beaver patriot thunder tag axle. They both leak air I’ve tightened up the screws it that still leaks. Thanks Kevin 

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placing of those depends on your suspension . there are 3 on most coaches. independent front will have 1 on each side and 1 on the rear axle. solid front suspensions are usually the opposite. 

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14 hours ago, KevinH said:

OK thanks everyone. I know I have two of them in the back not sure about the front yet. I read somewhere that there’s a gasket that can be replaced. 

Before getting under the coach, PLEASE be sure it's supported by properly rated jack stands under the frame. 👀
Disturbing those valves, or a failure in any part of the air system can drop the coach nearly to the ground.  If your head is under there, I hope you have good life insurance for your family.

I HATE reading the stories of RV'ers who have lost their lives this way.

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1 hour ago, Corkman said:

Have you actually read about someone dying this way?

Are you asking this because you don’t believe that the possibility is there?  The risk is there and proper safeguards should always be considered and implemented 

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“Lake Township Police Chief Mark Hummer said that Brian Collins, 33, was working under a motor home in the driveway of a private residence when the jacks apparently shifted killing him.”

I do not like metal jack stands on a metal frame^^^^. I support the back of my Navigator by raising it all the way up and then putting 40” long 6X6s crossways underneath the hitch, not the receiver, as the hitch is strong enough to support the back of the MH. In this situation I would lower the back onto these supports before working underneath.

OP, after bleeding all the air out I would undo the four screws and see if there happens to be a O-ring in there, instead of a gasket. New valves are not that expensive.

Edited by Ivylog
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48 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

Are you asking this because you don’t believe that the possibility is there?  The risk is there and proper safeguards should always be considered and implemented 

 

49 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

Are you asking this because you I’m not asking because I don’t believe you I’m just wondering if anybody was able ever did that. I have blocks from mine and I agree with the ideadon’t believe that the possibility is there?  The risk is there and proper safeguards should always be considered and implemented 

I’m not asking because I don’t believe you I’m just wondering if anybody ever did that. I have blocks from mine and I agree with the idea

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While blocking is certainly a good way to go I don’t think using under the hitch is a fail safe location as the hitch is not rated to support the weight of the motorhome. 

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By being 40” long you are supporting straight up to the rails on the S-10 chassis like the OP has. Have no idea how strong the hitch is on a R8RR chassis. And to add fuel to the fire, I would have my rig towed like the below… no driveshaft removal or cap damage.

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I do much the same with my toad that weighs 4200 lbs. The front axle weight increases almost 350 lbs when lifting from the ball… 8%. 
My swag based on the longer overhang to wheel base is 4,000lbs extra on the front axle. No, I wouldn’t tow very far and would increase psi to max in the tires.

My point in posting the first picture is the hitch structure on a S-10 chassis is massive, even going to 15K in 09 (no structure changes) provided you didn’t lift the tag.

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Wow all that information about  identifying a ride height control LOL.  when I get back to my coach I’m going to measure the right height.  then dump all the air including the front and rear air tanks and see how low she’ll go.

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7 hours ago, dl_racing427 said:

Before getting under the coach, PLEASE be sure it's supported by properly rated jack stands under the frame. 👀
Disturbing those valves, or a failure in any part of the air system can drop the coach nearly to the ground.  If your head is under there, I hope you have good life insurance for your family.

I HATE reading the stories of RV'ers who have lost their lives this way.

Beating a dead horse, IMHO

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7 hours ago, Hypoxia said:

Beating a dead horse, IMHO

Hopefully there’s not a pun in there. I doubt the OP supported his rig before tightening the 4 screws and taking the pictures. Fortunately he didn’t loosen them as there’s only 8” of clearance when aired down.

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2 hours ago, Ivylog said:

Hopefully there’s not a pun in there. I doubt the OP supported his rig before tightening the 4 screws and taking the pictures. Fortunately he didn’t loosen them as there’s only 8” of clearance when aired down.

Are there any children here?  There are more posts on this thread about saving yourself from yourself than about the mechanical problem.  Everyone on here gets onto the highway every day and thinks nothing of whizzing past each other with a 150 MPH closing speed a few feet away.  I did not spend my life in a cocoon and don't think many of us have.  I just do not understand this phobia.  Rant over.

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On 10/6/2021 at 12:40 PM, Ivylog said:

By being 40” long you are supporting straight up to the rails on the S-10 chassis like the OP has. Have no idea how strong the hitch is on a R8RR chassis. And to add fuel to the fire, I would have my rig towed like the below… no driveshaft removal or cap damage.

679B9EA4-3C56-43E7-B627-F237A502295D.jpeg

Towing a coach from the rear like that shown in the photo is NOT recommended because it will severely overload the front axle.  With proper equipment one can tow from the front without damage to the front cap.  The other option is to use a lowboy flatbed.

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Frank, the subject was blocking a S-10 up using wooden blocks under the hitch (not the receiver)… some said it wasn’t strong enough to hold the coach up…looks like it is.

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Correct, it is strong enough to lift the rear of the coach but the comment was made specifically about towing by lifting the rear.  At least my owners manual is very specific not to tow in this configuration.

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