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Condensation between windows


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Has anyone had any luck resolving condensation between windows, aside from replacing.   The window in the entrance door and above the drivers side window are always full of moisture.  Quite annoying, looking for any ideas or suggestions.  It is only those two windows affected of the 10 windows on the coach.  Thanks.  
 

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Edited by BradHend
Added better picture of entrance door, screen made it look weird.
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Just bought the items to redo my drivers side window. The materials are 6-8 weeks out, so will be suffering my first trip with it foggy. 
 

I’ve read a few posts and will be tackling it myself 
 

 

https://www.dkhardware.com/black-3-16-wide-x-3-16-thick-edgetech-super-spacer-66-roll-ss31666bl-product-77197.html

https://www.dkhardware.com/black-silicone-foam-and-metal-super-spacer-insulating-glass-sealant-877-product-18840.html

 

 

 

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Suncoast Designers in Hudson, FL did a great job for me. I removed the window and sent it UPS to them. I had it back in 11 days including 2 weekends. Great work, great price. If you are traveling in the area they have a few hook ups on site. You can stay there while they rebuild your window. www.suncoastdesigners.com  727 868-2773

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Had an automotive glass guy take care of ours. He removed window, cleaned both surfaces, resealed and re-installed a clean, free of condensation window in under an hour.

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I removed glass, buffed it till my hands were sore, tried every glass scratch remover, machined it with 4000 grit sand paper, and nothing worked. Once glass is etched it’s impossible ( in my mind ) to bring it back. I contacted a place in NC who has an amazing library of glass dimensions and bought replacement glass. Not cheap, and Fed Ex freight was $$$. 

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7 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Here's a post I did 7 years ago on IRV2

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/dont-wait-too-long-246255.html

I repaired 3 windows for less then $100.  Got a lot of good advice from IRV2 posters and followed their lead. 

If you are a DYIer it is a project you can do yourself and save money.  My windows are still good. 

That’s where I read it LOL. 

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9 hours ago, JDCrow said:

That’s where I read it LOL. 

Does that mean I'm published now😁

I did quite a bit of research before I decided to try and tackle the project.  Started with a small window and then worked my way up to the large driver side.  I did it all myself, handling the large drivers side window was a challenge.  Taking the time to clean the window halves is critical as once you put them together whatever streaks or spots are left will be visible forever. 

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Yes Jim, you are a well published author now...;-)

  Thanks for the heads up on not letting too much time go by, as I have a small window on the slide out that needs attention and I thought I could just get to it when ever I had the time.  I wasn't aware of the etching problem.  One more item to the list.

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I also used Suncoast Designers in Hudson, FL for several windows on our 1996 HR Endeavor, many years ago.  They made completely new windows and replaced them.  I wasn't really happy with the way they did one of the rounded corners on the driver's side sliding window.  But, overall, nice job, quick and reasonable price.

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  • 1 year later...
On 5/15/2022 at 4:00 PM, jacwjames said:

Here's a post I did 7 years ago on IRV2

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/dont-wait-too-long-246255.html

I repaired 3 windows for less then $100.  Got a lot of good advice from IRV2 posters and followed their lead. 

If you are a DYIer it is a project you can do yourself and save money.  My windows are still good. 

Jim,

We replaced the door window about 8 years ago and it is again starting get condensation inside. We are planning on ordering the edgetech roll but wonder for the need for the other supplies. When we took the window out to have it replaced previously there was butyl tape around the outside. Did you not replace it with like kind?

Any other tips will be greatly apprciated!

Sharon

BTW- knocking the repairs out SLOWLY(long list) ! The trip to Alaska was AWESOME but very hard on the RV!!!

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From what I understand, you want to seal the two panes together with as little humidity in the air between panes as possible.

Depending where you live, and the weather when your doing the job, you may want to do it inside your house.

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Ed, was the butyl tape between the glass panes or between the frame and coach exterior?

The frame myst be sealed to the exterior. If the rubber seal does not seal anymore then you can use butyl tape to seal it. When the window is reinstalled then make sure that it is sealed, even if you have a pro do the clean and reinstall - just talking from experience. 

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I am a little confused also, but will tell you want I was told when I replaced the drivers DOOR window in my Camelot.

Atwood SOLD the Window Division to Lippert. Lippert had the Production Control Manager for the Atwood Window Plant working in another location. They moved her over to run the division. 

They did REPAIRS as well as rebuilding the windows.  They also had all the prints on the windows as well as a cross reference to where each PN or Size was used..

They had a cross reference of which windows were used on WHICH Monaco's.  Their print, which they emailed me, matched mine exactly.

I ordered a NEW window as the outside big pane took a rock (BB?) and shattered.  I was Washington and planned on going through Elkhart on the way home. I taped that sucker up and made it.

The shop was doing other things and had finished and we were waiting for "ITS HERE".  The Lippert shop was 5 minutes away. It came in that afternoon.  LUCK. The next morning the shop pulled my window and I took it over there. Took them about 2 hours to take it apart and then replace everything.

I WATCHED, but I do NOT recall any "SEALING" around the window....  I DID have a long talk with the lady. She said that the OEM windows were PLAIN AIR...there was a rumor that Atwood pulled a Vacuum and then filled with an inert gas like Nitrogen....as some of the High E windows for residential have. 

NOPE...PLAIN AIR. The "TAPE" used on mine was on the FRAME to attach the frame to the outside.

The Lippert Shop just reassembled...and had to take them apart a few times to get all the corners square and the latches working

The Shop reassembled. I did have ONE small leak from where rain was coming in and I sealed that corner.  IT LOOKS GREAT...some 6 years later.

There are MANY "Glass Companies" that can take apart the window and do it locally.  SINCE there is no INERT gas, they use the same technique as Lippert did.

That's my take on it... 

MANY VIDEOS and HOW TO's out there....this is just one...and is OLD...but seems to answer a lot of questions and it matches what I remember...

https://community.goodsam.com/t5/motorhome-group/dual-pane-window-repair-my-way/td-p/226462

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3 hours ago, eddie4ne said:

Jim,

We replaced the door window about 8 years ago and it is again starting get condensation inside. We are planning on ordering the edgetech roll but wonder for the need for the other supplies. When we took the window out to have it replaced previously there was butyl tape around the outside. Did you not replace it with like kind?

Any other tips will be greatly apprciated!

Sharon

BTW- knocking the repairs out SLOWLY(long list) ! The trip to Alaska was AWESOME but very hard on the RV!!!

 

 

 

 

My window did not have any butyl tape, there was a rubber type seal stuck to the outside window frame, it compresses when the inner frame is pulled tight.  I then did use a bead of Geocel around the window on the outside. 

After the window was put back together with the Edgetech I used the Black Foam Sealant using the guide block to go around the window.  I put the window on a 5 gallon bucket with a towel on it so I could turn it will I applied the foam.  I used a battery operated caulk gun at a low setting to apply the foam, made it much easier and left an even bead around the perimeter of the window with very little touch up.

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I fixed one about 5 years ago and haven’t had issues with it since. It’s not a difficult process and you don’t need special tools although two home made ones might help, one to remove the screws holding the window in place and one to measure the distance between the edge of the glass and inner seal. 
 

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/2000-dynasty-drivers-side-window-334706.html

 

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As Denis mentioned, the screws can be challenging to remove where the valance blocks it. An angle driver that fits a drill driver solves the problem. Dewalt makes such an attachment. 

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1 hour ago, Martinvz said:

As Denis mentioned, the screws can be challenging to remove where the valance blocks it. An angle driver that fits a drill driver solves the problem. Dewalt makes such an attachment. 

I broke all my “hard to reach” screws with this …. Out of curiosity, before the shop pulled the window….just to see how hard it was. The lower driver’s window corner is less than 2” from the dash….as the window went in BEFORE the dash. Don’t use the kit I have much, but it is a lifesaver when you need it.

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32 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

I broke all my “hard to reach” screws with this …. Out of curiosity, before the shop pulled the window….just to see how hard it was. The lower driver’s window corner is less than 2” from the dash….as the window went in BEFORE the dash. Don’t use the kit I have much, but it is a lifesaver when you need it.

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I had one of those, but it wouldn’t work on my coach. I had to shorten the bit by half and use a mini vice grip to turn the screws. 

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