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Aqua hot circulation pump valves etc..


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Hey guys so I have been working on this aqua hot recently for the past 2 weeks.. Started with a fuel pump leak which I eventually solved then. Figuring out how to get a good clean burn with no smoke.

 

Now Everything is running and getting warm except the front zone.  I can put my hand on the punp and feel the circulation pump turning but it seems like no fluid is moving. 

The lines are warm at best... both other pumps and lines are hot but the far right one is cool. I have all zone thermostats max out for heat should it should be calling for it.  And all the radiator fans are turning. Just no fluid..

Is there in internal valve that is supposed to open? Possible clog in that loop?? All zone radiators are cold.

Any thoughts?

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When I first bought mine the Aqua Hot fired up ok but no heat coming from all the registers. Bought it from someone in Florida that never used it. All 3 valves where stuck. Someone on the site told me to tap the valves with a small hammer and bingo everything started flowing. One of them I really had to tap till it finally started working and I have been on a couple of trips in the cold and didn’t stick anymore.

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Ya. Tried to tap on it with the punp turning. Still no go. Bout to shelf this one till fall lol

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Posted (edited)

Ryan,

What model Aqua-Hot are we talking about? Since your coach is a 2000 model year it may have a model 100-01 or 100-02 or even a 431/12.

If so, I have spare pumps for that model and I may even have spare check valves. Last time I checked, Roger Berke was out of stock on those older pumps and I doubt that Aqua-Hot still carries the pumps either. John Carrillo has them for just under $1000.

I was given a working Aqua-Hot model 100-01 a couple of years back so I removed all of the parts I could get off then tossed the carcass. I really wanted it for the Webasto burner which I had John Carrillo go through it first to refurbish it so now I just replace the entire Webasto with a rebuilt one, then rebuild that one for next time.

However, I won't be back to my winter home until late October.

Edited by Dr4Film
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Do you have the pumps with the clear plastic covers? If you do look and see if the impellers are spinning. They are magnet driven. They can get stuck also from sitting too long? You might be just felling the motor spin.

 

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Ya Dr. You are right it's a 431. Pretty sure it's the brass valve. It's really hot on the bottom end of the brass but the top is warm at best. 

U can hear and feel the punp turning didn't know it was magnets driven. 

I think I'm going to give it a good tap tomorrow and if it doesn't move just leave it till I can replace the valve. 

Looks like that's a pretty big process. 

20220523_140316.jpg

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25 minutes ago, Romeo84 said:

Ya Dr. You are right it's a 431. Pretty sure it's the brass valve. It's really hot on the bottom end of the brass but the top is warm at best. 

U can hear and feel the punp turning didn't know it was magnets driven. 

I think I'm going to give it a good tap tomorrow and if it doesn't move just leave it till I can replace the valve. 

Looks like that's a pretty big process. 

20220523_140316.jpg

From what I have seen the new pumps are plastic and not built well at all. I would do my best to fix it, but that's just me.

Tim

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On 5/22/2022 at 2:15 PM, Romeo84 said:

Ya. Tried to tap on it with the punp turning. Still no go. Bout to shelf this one till fall lol

Couldn't shelf mine right now, it's running on electric every night of this trip! Coldest spring in years!

Could use heat pumps, but I like the quiet of the AH heat on electric.

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Couldn't shelf mine right now, it's running on electric every night of this trip! Coldest spring in years!

Could use heat pumps, but I like the quiet of the AH heat on electric.

 I have used my heat pumps down to about 35゚ and then they start to chill out... 

At what temp does the electric heater  Element not be able to keep up.. 

Also I'm going to be in some pretty chilly Nights the next 5 days.. 

Site I'm at is only 30amp.  I'm well aware of the basic load sharing and overloading principles of amperage...

  The heater element on the aquahide says it pulls about 1600 W so I'm guessing anywhere in the range of 12 to 14 amps.. I could I get by running the aqua hot onThe electric element on A30AMp service..  I figure 15 amps for the aqua hot another 5 for all the fans lights(led) and another 6 for the charger ... would be close but through the night what do you guys think?

Edited by Romeo84
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I'd say electric alone on a 450D Aqua hot, about 50deg outside, you can get the interior close to 70.

Your older unit may have a larger boiler tank, and may do better.

Colder than 50, I'll run heat pumps. Colder than 36, it's back to the Aqua hot, burning diesel.

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Ever run the electric element on just 30amp service? The site we have is only 30 amp and it would be nice to take the chill out at night. Run the diesel burner to build up start up heat and then switch to electric through the night.  So much quieter. 

Thoughts on aqua hot electric element on 30 amp service. 

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To determine if the pump is faulty, just switch the wires with one of the other pumps.  I’m betting the valve is stuck.  Keep tapping on it while the pump is running.  
 

As far as running on electric or diesel, I thought if you have both switches on, then if the electric can’t keep up, the diesel burner will kick in to supplement. 

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13 hours ago, Romeo84 said:

Ya Dr. You are right it's a 431. Pretty sure it's the brass valve. It's really hot on the bottom end of the brass but the top is warm at best. 

U can hear and feel the punp turning didn't know it was magnets driven. 

I think I'm going to give it a good tap tomorrow and if it doesn't move just leave it till I can replace the valve. 

Looks like that's a pretty big process. 

20220523_140316.jpg

I would bet that it is a stuck Check Valve. That is the most common "failure". Those pumps are pretty bullet -proof. Even the Check Vales are seldom replaced but are more readily available and cheaper than the pump motor.

13 hours ago, Tim-AZ said:

From what I have seen the new pumps are plastic and not built well at all. I would do my best to fix it, but that's just me.

Tim

Those round plastic pumps are used in in the newer models such as the 100-03S & 100-04S and newer versus the older models, 100-01, 100-02 and the 431/12.

17 minutes ago, dandick66 said:

As far as running on electric or diesel, I thought if you have both switches on, then if the electric can’t keep up, the diesel burner will kick in to supplement. 

You are correct!

I always have BOTH switches on ALL the time. The Electric Assist (if on shore or generator power) is designed to keep the boiler fluid hot unless there is more demand on the system than it can handle in which case the Diesel Webasto will fire up to keep the boiler fluid at temperature. You never have to think about which one should I use, Electric or Diesel. It does the thinking for you.

6 hours ago, Romeo84 said:

Ever run the electric element on just 30amp service? The site we have is only 30 amp and it would be nice to take the chill out at night. Run the diesel burner to build up start up heat and then switch to electric through the night.  So much quieter. 

Thoughts on aqua hot electric element on 30 amp service. 

You can run the Electric Assist on 30 amp service but then you have to "manage" your power consumption as it draws about 11-12 amps which is almost half of your supply. If your coach has an Intellitec EMS System then it will manage your power consumption for you when on 30,20 or 15 amp service.

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I had a similar problem, front zone (living room) was not getting heat, fans were working but no heat. Tried the hammer on the check valve, no luck. That zone had an air lock so loosened the return line and applied a little air to the overflow connection on the filler nozzle. Once the gurgling stopped from air being in the line, tightened the return line and all was well with plenty of heat. 

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3 hours ago, dandick66 said:

   
 

As far as running on electric or diesel, I thought if you have both switches on, then if the electric can’t keep up, the diesel burner will kick in to supplement. 

Aqua Hot's the vintage of Ryan's will work that way. Mine, and yours (if you have one), don't work like that. When the boiler fluid cools to a pre-set temp, both the electric element, and diesel burner, come on together.

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7 hours ago, Rob M cKeown said:

I had a similar problem, front zone (living room) was not getting heat, fans were working but no heat. Tried the hammer on the check valve, no luck. That zone had an air lock so loosened the return line and applied a little air to the overflow connection on the filler nozzle. Once the gurgling stopped from air being in the line, tightened the return line and all was well with plenty of heat. 

This is where I'm at now... took check valve off and replaced it. Supplied air to the vent line. Found my cap was shot. Replaced the cap charged the line and saw the fluid go up the pump and over my head..

Now it's cavitation or something. Still no fluid movement.  Has to be a clog somewhere down stream.

This started with a leaky fuel pump which is fixed then check valve replaced now I have to find the clog....

Is the return for the same loop just behind the supply? So if I crack the one circled in the picture that is the living room return..?? 

Rob u said urs was gurgling with pump on?

20220522_111655.jpg

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