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2002 Monaco 40’ leveling


cmjosborn
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My guess is that your chassis has the mounting locations for the 3 jacks.  You would have to crawl under the rig and confirm.  One is located in the front just in front of the fuel tank, two are located in the rear about 5' behind the rear axle. 
If you have the mounting locations you should be able to add jacks.  It would require the jacks, pump/manifold system, controls, and hosing.  It would be pretty costly though. 

I don't have air leveling but have the manual RVA II jack system.  Once we are leveled the rig is very stable, if someone moves around in the coach you hardly feel it at all.  Here are the two parts pages for my leveling system.

https://www.rvajack.com/

1 Leveling Jacks.pdf 1 Leveling Jack 2.pdf

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there are as many theories on this and discussions as to which vehicle is the best toad.

My technique is to drop the air, then go to manual and level.  Auto works about the same, but the Artificial Intelligence sometimes pumps and then dumps.  I try to get level using the least air….assuming (and folks will/may not buy my logic) that the lower the pressure (lower the volumej in the bags the better and the more stable and also the least likely to be “moving around”.  I also turn off the system (PowerGear Valid) as the “auto” keeps wanting to tweak and the AUX compressor comes on at the worst time…..3:00 AM.  

NOW….I have a small leak in the main system…..It will bleed the tanks to ZERO in the summer within a week or maybe 10 days.  BUT, the leveling system holds constant and I have never had a droopy corner or side.  Past that, I can’t explain it any more.

The OTHER advantage of leveling from dropped bags….is that you have less distance or a lower front step height and my DW, who will get a late Christmas present…a NEW LEFT KNEE…..delivered by the Easter Bunny (.Santa might have had a Supply Chain issue…LOL) likes the lower step height.  So, it works for us.

I know several members with full understanding of the Air Leveling system that manually level and turn it off.  They don’t do the drop and start from a dumped position….

Works for me….

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For me when i get to where i am going to set the base level i will drive within my spot to achieve the most level, dump my bags, use my stabilizers to correct for minor adjustments. Once my level is achieved then put out my slides.

Now fyi i just installed my level mate pro so making adjustments is as easy as looking at my phone, i too have noticed that level will change as days go by so readjustment is repeating the final process. My thoughts are do to the cold the molicules of the oil shrink an pressure changes, much like tire pressure does OR my valves have some internal leakage which obviously will change the level. The only way to know for sure is to test my therory in spring time. Also a question you need to ask yourself is, when losing “level” is it always the same corner or end or is it the level in general. If its internal leakage i could see 1 maybe 2 valves but not all 3 or in my case 4 valves

To answer your question to as to add manual jacks, im not sure of there rating as to IF they could handle the weight. Plus givin the inconvience of needing to get to them to raise or lower might prove to be troublesome. 
 

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13 hours ago, cmjosborn said:

To much movement 

Has anyone added crank jacks to help stabilize ?

Not sure a crank jack would work.

On my class C I used the smaller tripod type screw jack to help stabilize the rig.  Without them the rig would rock and roll anytime anyone would move in the coach.  I wouldn't use them for one night stays but if parked for longer periods I'd pull them out and install them.  I actually mounted some some heave angle behind the rear wheel on either side to make it easier to use them.  Not many good places to set these easily. 

Edited by jacwjames
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  • 3 weeks later...

 I'm thinking I have the same set up as Tom Cherry on my 07 Sig for air leveling with the "Power Gear Valid".  What happened to me last night was the Pump started coming on about every 30 seconds and run for about the same amount of time. I Cut the power with the power button on my consul for the Valid but the air pump kept on doing its tweaking.. So I'm wondering what I'm missing here or is there some other way of shutting this system down. Now its day light and the pump is only coming on every once in a while, but the Valid is still off.

Would appreciate any input on this problem..

Thank you all

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8 minutes ago, cowpoke said:

Thanks for the info Frank---that is a big help...

Appreciate your help and this site. "Priceless"

I think you'll find that it is actually a metal can circuit breaker that pulls out of the circuit board.  If you can't find it let me know and I'll send you a picture.

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2 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

You likely have a bad air check valve at the pump.  Pull the fuse in the FRB front run bay for the compressor pump.

Frank is correct on the system and also the C/B.  When I shut off the Valid, that keeps it from "Tweaking" as in replenishing the air supply to the leveling system via the Aux Pump.  You probably have a much nicer pump than I have, but the system is the same....just a matter of a nicer pump.  

The Pump is controlled by a 90 On and 120 Off pressure switch.  So, when the MH's  "leveling supply line" is leaking or if the MH is shifting and the system is trying to adjust, the MH House air system is being used.  BUT, when the Valid side of the system drops below 90 PSI, the pump comes on.

The OTHER way, if you are a "crawler" is to shinny under the pump and locate the two terminal pressure switch on the air line.  Pull one of the terminals and the pressure switch is OFF.....  That will DEFINITELY shut it down.  The good news is....the SWITCH WORKS.  Many get condensation in and corrode the contacts.

Typically it should take a minute or more for the compressor to to bump up the <90 PSI line pressure to 120 and shut off the pump.  If yours is cycling back and forth quickly you MIGHT have an erratic VIAR pressure switch.  Amazon has them....90 ON and 120 OFF...it will look exactly like yours as Monaco used VIAIR components.

 

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Thank you Frank, I just found the fuse that runs that pump, as it turns out it was a fuse on mine. I believe I read somewhere on this site you could get a pump that runs better with less noise. You wouldn't happen to know anything about that would you?

Appreciate your help

Thank you

Thank you Tom for the come back, I will look into that switch, sounds like that could be my problem. At least now I can pull the fuse and shut it down if need be...

Much appreciated

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Thank you Tom for the come back, I will look into that switch, sounds like that could be my problem. At least now I can pull the fuse and shut it down if need be...

Much appreciated

Thank you Ben, I will look into the Thomas, the one I have now could wake the dead!

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