tmw188 Posted March 18, 2023 Share Posted March 18, 2023 6 hours ago, pwhittle said: Check that the Jake/engine brake switch is off. Paul Maybe so Paul, your saying the switch needs to be off for it to work? That just might be it, I may have left it on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgia Mike Posted March 18, 2023 Author Share Posted March 18, 2023 I went over today and changed the clock spring and everything is functioning perfectly as before. So if your steering wheel control’s suddenly go dead most likely it’s the clock spring. Also, don’t go 100% by the testing procedures for the control box because if I did I would have immediately assumed it was bad and it wasn’t. For instance it says I should have had voltage at three different locations on the control board with the key off but I only had it at one location. When I turned the ignition key on those other locations became energized. When checking the clock spring make sure you have continuity on all four conductors. There is a plug at the bottom of the steering column and one in the steering wheel itself on top. Just remove the top middle cover to find it. Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while checking to see if continuity fluctuates at all. Hope this helps someone down the road. I plan on trying to take this old clock spring apart to see how it works and possibly fix it to keep for future problems. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happycarz Posted March 18, 2023 Share Posted March 18, 2023 Mike, set up your camera, phone, so we can see a video of that thing coming apart. Now that would be fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boathouse Posted September 4, 2023 Share Posted September 4, 2023 What wire on the clock spring sends power to the smart wheel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windsorbill06 Posted April 26 Share Posted April 26 (edited) I know this is an older thread, but goes along the same lines. I've been having intermittent cruise control issues for years. I couldn't turn it on with the smart wheel. Take it to dealer, it's fine. Maybe go several months working fine, and out of the blue, stops working. I finally tracked the problem down to when the steering wheel is exposed to the sun, it heats up. Cools down, it's fine. I took the clock spring out and bench tested it. Resistance was <1 most of the time. When heated up with a blow dryer, resistance varied, but got up to 2 and sometimes much higher. Let it cool down and would drop but then I noticed one of the legs stayed up above 3. Ordered a new one and resistance is .6 at room temp. Stays below <1 when set in sun. Everything working as it should now. They are hard to find. Veurink has them at nearly $400 with shipping. I found a couple other places from internet searches. Cheapest I found was $180 and only $7 shipping, but slow to respond to questions. Took them 2 weeks to drop it in mail. I was going to call the credit card company and dispute the charge, but just got an update that it did finally ship. So I'll have 2 of them. Correct part number for my coach is 1900043. I believe Douglas Autotech makes it. New one came 'pre centered'. See white clip on picture. It needs to be pulled out as you re-assemble everything. Very straight forward swap. Here's the new one with the auto centering clip installed. I couldn't resist and cut the old one open to see how it works. Edited April 26 by windsorbill06 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted April 26 Share Posted April 26 Where did you buy it from??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windsorbill06 Posted April 26 Share Posted April 26 (edited) I actually bought 2 from 2 different sources. originally WWW.buyparts.online Slow to respond and I thought it was a scam. Apparently not, but lousy business model. Took 2 weeks for them to drop in mail. They don't answer phone, don't return calls and very slow at responding to emails. I was ready to dispute the charge with CC company. I wouldn't use them again. Then I found 1 on ebay, but I went direct to seller in Colorado. The ebay says 'no returns, no exceptions' and I was a little skeptical. Once I talked to them, I felt better. Arkansas Valley Diesel Services, Inc (719) 336-3241 (actually in Colorado) Edited April 26 by windsorbill06 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Windsor32ft Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 Where might I find the front run box on my 1998 Windsor, 32ft ? I have been looking for it for two weeks to fix my headlights always on problem. John Flinn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 My smart wheel box is under the dash behind the radio. I take out the small panel with the radio still mounted in it and lay it down across the small drawer in the front center dash console. This gives be access to the smartwheel box but it's a stretch to get to it. I had a wire on mine come loose not too long after I bought it but when I looked at it someone had previously done a crappy repair job. I believe there is a fuse on the smart wheel board. Check the downloads section and there should be a VIP troubleshooting guide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHRookie Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 It’s been awhile since I called for a quote but, if you call your local Freightliner, Western Star, or Thomas bus parts departments with the 1900043 part number they can quote it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Windsor32ft Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 Thanks, guys, for the info. I am wondering if I have a "Smart Wheel" as I do not have any buttons on my steering wheel. I rechecked under my dash and looked around again for a control box.. I did not find it. My head light wires from the switch disappear into a cable harness that is about 3 inch dia. I think I will cut the cable ties and trace where the wires go. I am also thinking I may have a temporary fix with a relay that might get me through a quickie inspection... John Flinn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 Yes, you do NOT have a Smart Wheel. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted May 14 Share Posted May 14 On 5/12/2024 at 11:25 AM, 98Windsor32ft said: Where might I find the front run box on my 1998 Windsor, 32ft ? I have been looking for it for two weeks to fix my headlights always on problem. John Flinn Always ON….as in even with the Headlight switch OFF. Or always on when driving….as in Daytime Running Lights….always on all Canadian Bound MH?? There is a Headlight Relay, I SUSPECT. That was how it was usually wired. Look at your prints or go exploring where all the relays are. If the BOSCH relay is welded or the coil is messed up, it will provide a circuit. FIND that relay. Replace it. The COIL is what is activated….by the headlight switch. Now that is one the 2000’s and forward…so, you need to trace the circuit…. OK....started this on my iPad. Just checked my PC. Have the prints for an OLDER (supposedly 1996) MH. Here it is. I had to do a little Photoshopping to get better contrast, but the labels are OK. This is what you PROBABLY have. NOW....that is a 4 PIN relay. Not sure if they are STILL around. BUT, you can replace with the standard BOSCH 5 Pin. the Red/Yellow wire on the left side of the relay (can't read the pin) would go to Terminal 85 of a 5 pin Bosch. The 86 Terminal goes to ground (that is the white 83 on the old relay. The 30 Wire and the 87 Wire are the same. Use the same circuit. NOW, you would have a Standard Relay. BUT...I would STILL DO THIS.... First, check for the DRL relay...and PULL it. NO JOY... Then Pull the Headlight Relay. THAT shuts it down. As I suspected, the Headlight switch just drives the Headlight Relay...so if that relay is bad...BINGO. Now if the Headlight Switch is defective, it is a common one and replace it. Hope this helps Main Chassis Layout 1996 Dynasty and such.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Windsor32ft Posted May 14 Share Posted May 14 Thanks, Tom, Great info.. I have 50 yr behind me of electronic test/integration experience. I suspect you are correct, just need to trace wires back. The headlights are on if the battery disconnect is on. Interesting thing, the hi/lo beam switch only works if the headlight switch is on. I will trace the wires and let you know the outcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted May 14 Share Posted May 14 11 minutes ago, 98Windsor32ft said: Thanks, Tom, Great info.. I have 50 yr behind me of electronic test/integration experience. I suspect you are correct, just need to trace wires back. The headlights are on if the battery disconnect is on. Interesting thing, the hi/lo beam switch only works if the headlight switch is on. I will trace the wires and let you know the outcome. Comment….and you have more bench time that I do…but I have spent a LOT of time looking at the prints and making or trying to make sense of the circuits. The output of that switch goes to the headlight relay. Now THAT turns on the relay or energizes the coil, the. The power from the main headlight fuse goes to the HI/LOW siwtch. There is a SECOND wire that also comes to the “leftside”. I don’t know where it starts….but my GUT says….it would be the “output” or power from a DRL relay. So, start the engine….a DRL relay closes. There is dual power to the Headlight relay coil. One is the headlight switch….but TIED to it….a another feed or signal from the DRL circuit. FIRST….easy way…. Pull the positive coil terminal off the Headlight relay. OK… snip one wire. My BET…. Engine off….chassis battery ON….headlight switch ON…. YOU GOT Power coming in…from both sides. NOW turn OFF the Headlight switch. One side SHOULD (MUST) DROP OUT. Now you know which is the headlight switch. Still got power….unplug the connector to the Headlight switch. If that kills it…there is a defect in the switch….but IF one side has ZERO VDC… then you know WHICH is the headlight switch. Then connect that wire back to the relay. NOW it should work as designed….assuming the Headlight Relay ain’t the issue. What is powerimg the OTHER wire….??? No idea. Insulate and forget about it… NOW…look at the headlight switch. It is a SPDT switch…no center off. One side will always be LOW….until you switch to HIGH…. I know you’ll solve it a bit of noodling and a print…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan browne Posted May 15 Share Posted May 15 (edited) My 2007 Dynasty I recently purchased this from RV Elite. RV Clock Spring Kit for Steering Column × 1 $333.63 Edited May 15 by bryan browne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Windsor32ft Posted May 16 Share Posted May 16 Tom, Thanks again for your info and advice. Yes, I have a few years of engineering behind me but only 1 1/2 years of Monaco. I searched for 3 years for a coach that was older than 2000 and was in good shape. I found the '98 Windsor with 40k mi from southern Ca. It is almost mint inside with real wood. I had the engine, transmission, and under machinery gone over.... they are like new also. The only biggie was a $6k roof from RV Armor (great company). I found the relays in your document and hot on the trail to fixing the problem. John Flinn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o2rvsmore Posted May 27 Share Posted May 27 The house multiplex CCM is supposed to provide 5 v to the Smart Wheel for it to operate. The Kronsburg house CCM over time has the voltage drop into the 4.6 v range and the cruise, wipers and and all things smart wheel cease to operate. The fix is add an independent 5 volt power supply and connect it to the power feed for the Smart Wheel. Happened to me and this was the fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted May 27 Share Posted May 27 From the files. Used KONGSBERG. From EVERYWHERE, selected FILES. BINGO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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