Jake brake foot switch wiring

[MHRookie]

All,

     Wasn't sure if this went under electronics, chassis, engine.... moderator place accordingly.. (sorry)

trying to troubleshoot the foot switch micro switch.  looking for replacement switch (my WM-2R555729 switch is obsolete - 125,250,277 VAC - 3/4hp-125; 1/1/2 hp 250 VAC).  First, is this switch a SPST or SPDT?  it only has 2 wires so I think its single/single...foot off switch, current is broken, when pedal is depressed, current flows.  That's my analysis.

Next - this switch is rated for 22a... I cannot for the life of me think this switch would see this type of load.  I think the switch is way over rated for the service type??

Linemaster makes a product that looks exactly like this foot switch but they only have switches related for 16a (120/250 1/2 hp....).

As you all guess... I am NOT an electrical genius....  I'd rate my skills as a 5 on a 1-10 scale.  I know how to run a DVOM and test lights but when it comes to "understanding" alternative options/replacement....  yep, I got to phone a friend.......  Hello.......  it's the 3rd ring.

 

Thanks for listening and the feedback!

Kurt

[DavidL]

Yes, the switch highly likely only needs to switch a very small amount of current.

Does your current switch still work at all?  If so, use your VOM and put it on ohm.  Then, connect the VOM to both switch connections.  If it is Open when foot off, that would be Normally Open switch.  Then, close the switch...does the Ohms go shorted?  that is what I would expect.  Then, virtually any foot switch that is Normally Open can work.

[OhReally]

Kurt, here's a random selection from Amazon. It says it is rated for 20 amps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9QXKA/ref=sspa_mw_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B000C9QXKA&pd_rd_w=3Wljm&content-id=amzn1.sym.b2ec5262-f041-4d36-80e4-d6ae45347c6c&pf_rd_p=b2ec5262-f041-4d36-80e4-d6ae45347c6c&pf_rd_r=7KFYS51YPEEX376NT1GJ&pd_rd_wg=TilAj&pd_rd_r=11b33749-5043-44f7-a3f9-9a1b3e4a0ef9&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVjVRRjVYUUNCVUdGJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDI3Njc5Mk9COERaN1JaTUFKSyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDgwNjQ0MlJVMDBFVTFHNVhVViZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

-Jamie 

[DavidL]

https://www.amazon.com/Coolneon-Momentary-Piggyback-Lichtenberg-Splitter/dp/B09SKZYNNF/ref=sxin_15_ac_d_hl?ac_md=1-0-T3ZlcmFsbCBDaG9pY2U%3D-ac_d_hl_hl_ac&content-id=amzn1.sym.ea5a3043-3172-4e81-bcc4-eb7524db4f7c%3Aamzn1.sym.ea5a3043-3172-4e81-bcc4-eb7524db4f7c&cv_ct_cx=foot+switch&keywords=foot+switch&pd_rd_i=B09SKZYNNF&pd_rd_r=3560da96-c719-4ed1-92fb-c45e57b2bd0d&pd_rd_w=70cJM&pd_rd_wg=Zi454&pf_rd_p=ea5a3043-3172-4e81-bcc4-eb7524db4f7c&pf_rd_r=B9T8CZFR4TZ190HV8VN1&qid=1679338482&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=1-1-25fd44b4-555a-4528-b40c-891e95133f20

 

That's closer to the one I retrofitted to my Newmar that never had a foot switch.  The pedal closes a relay.  The DPDT relay parallels the manual finger switch so either can engage the brake.

[waterskier_1]

It is a SPST switch.  I wired my old Dynasty with a Dash (Side Console) switch so I didn't have to hold my foot down for miles in the Colorado Rockies.  I think that 3 - 5 Amps would be sufficient.  If you choose to do that, the two switches are just wired in parallel, so that either can be used.

  -Rick N.

[MHRookie]

4 hours ago, DavidL said:

Yes, the switch highly likely only needs to switch a very small amount of current.

Does your current switch still work at all?  If so, use your VOM and put it on ohm.  Then, connect the VOM to both switch connections.  If it is Open when foot off, that would be Normally Open switch.  Then, close the switch...does the Ohms go shorted?  that is what I would expect.  Then, virtually any foot switch that is Normally Open can work.

Yes, it still works but I am getting quite a delay before it engages.  I took apart and cleaned everything and adjusted the rocker inside thinking that over time, it’s sprung which requires nearly bottoming out the pedal to engage.

[Dr4Film]

This switch at Amazon should work fine for your purpose. I purchased one to use with the Blue-Ox TruCenter and wired it NO. Then when I stepped on the switch it would be in the closed position.

https://tinyurl.com/3j5xyhyk

[Chargerman]

That’s the switch I bought after your previous recommendation Richard. Works great for me. So much better than the original switch setup. 

[Ivan K]

14 hours ago, MHRookie said:

Yes, it still works but I am getting quite a delay before it engages.  I took apart and cleaned everything and adjusted the rocker inside thinking that over time, it’s sprung which requires nearly bottoming out the pedal to engage.

If you always had an unusual delay, there is a parameter in the ECM where delay could have been intentionally defined.

[Dr4Film]

My Engine Brake has a short delay before it kicks in. Are you saying that some owner prior to me possibly had the ECM flashed to cause this delay?

If so, where would I go to have the delay removed from the ECM?

[Bruce B]

My foot pedal also has a slight delay, I think it is programmed that way. 

[Ivan K]

40 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

My Engine Brake has a short delay before it kicks in. Are you saying that some owner prior to me possibly had the ECM flashed to cause this delay?

If so, where would I go to have the delay removed from the ECM?

My Jake has a minor short delay too, I think that's normal but here is the section from my image where a delay could be defined for whatever reason.

[MHRookie]

4 hours ago, Ivan K said:

If you always had an unusual delay, there is a parameter in the ECM where delay could have been intentionally defined.

No, the delay I am experiencing now is a new symptom.  Originally, it activated upon the flip of the switch (what you are thinking is a "short delay").  the current delay is almost a "one thousand four" then the tranny selector goes to 2nd gear.

6 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

This switch at Amazon should work fine for your purpose. I purchased one to use with the Blue-Ox TruCenter and wired it NO. Then when I stepped on the switch it would be in the closed position.

https://tinyurl.com/3j5xyhyk

Dr4Film - thanks, this information is what I meant by "lack of knowledge" for replacements... I really thought I hit the jackpot until I compared the ratings on the switches for service duty parameters.  

So, next question for the team...  as the pedal sits on the floor untouched, the internal parts are depressing the switch plunger.  Then we depress the pedal and it activated the system.

So is this a N.O. switch or a N.C. switch?

Thanks everyone!  I know I can do the test as noted above, but coach is in storage and not wanting to take it apart again.  I probably will to verify if the plunger action is causing the delay or not.

Edited March 21, 2023 by MHRookie

[Dr4Film]

The switch needs to be wired in the NO position. The Linemaster switch allows you to choose which way you want the switch to work, NO or NC.

No need to fret over switch parameters as this switch will handle exactly what your dash switch is accomplishing.

[Ivan K]

5 hours ago, MHRookie said:

No, the delay I am experiencing now is a new symptom.  Originally, it activated upon the flip of the switch (what you are thinking is a "short delay").  the current delay is almost a "one thousand four" then the tranny selector goes to 2nd gear.

The Jake is operated by oil pressure through solenoid valves (one for low, both for high). There is, I assume, the cause for a normal minor delay while the passages and pistons get pressurized. The oil line comes from the external oil filter area to the valve cover spacer and could possibly be kinked ( not likely). It goes through the valve cover spacer bulkhead fitting to an internal line under valve cover where there could be a leak in the connection or between the jake halves. Just as the solenoid valves could be sticking. So it could be a mechanical issue besides what you already checked out.