Guardian Plates for My 2006 Dynasty

[Dr4Film]

I spent the last few days at Tailin RV & Stone Vos Inc shops having my roadside slides fitted with Guardian Plates. The previous owners did not maintain the corners and the bottom of those two slides very well. In fact, the large salon slide had some very thin SS covering the bottom ends that were partially glued on with two screws at each end to hold it in place. Luckily, they both came off easily. One end of my rear closet slide had the thin covering the bottom separating from the plywood base.

For those two reasons, I decided to have the Guardian Plates installed so I will never have to worry about them ever again. Photos attached.

While there, I discovered some additional work that will need to be done next winter when we return to Florida. Two small sections of the bottom beltline will need to be repaired and the double bulb flip seal around the large salon slide will need to be replaced.

I also talked with Ingrid, the owner of Stone Vos Inc about making tire covers for the Dynasty and replacing the topper over the large roadside slide.

Both places, Talin RV and Stone Vos Inc. are my go-to places for having the BEST products and the very BEST technical service and installations. I don't waste my time with other shops when I have the very best only a 3-hour drive from my winter residence. 

[Marine Boy]

Thanks for the info and pics.  Would love to know the cost for the plates installed.

[windsorbill06]

8 minutes ago, Marine Boy said:

Thanks for the info and pics.  Would love to know the cost for the plates installed.

To get an accurate price, IMO, you need to have them quote it for you.  Some coaches have center rollers.  My rear PAX slide has 4 rollers, so I needed 4 guardian plates.  Some slides only need 2.    I installed myself and wasn't a really difficult project.  Accurate measurements are important.  They will walk you through it.

Edited April 21, 2023 by windsorbill06

[Tom Whitlow]

Isn't there plates on the bottom where the rollers are?  They aren't in your photos.

[Tom Cherry]

1 minute ago, Tom Whitlow said:

Isn't there plates on the bottom where the rollers are?  They aren't in your photos.

There are, technically, two styles of plates.  The original guardian plates are a formed piece of SS sheet steel.  I have “plates” on 3 of my 4 slides.  The original Guardian is what Richard posted.  They do several things.  First is corrects or redesigns the sidewall seam and securely seals it to prevent moisture entry which can lead to damage to the lower surface of the slide.  The second is to provide a surface for the roller(s) to run on.  That is not in any of the pictures but that full length strip is typically 8” or so, but can be wider.  I have a 12” wide strip on one slide with the 4” turned up.  @throgmartin also supplies plain plates if you have center or multiple rollers.  Some slides also came with a nylon runner (the drop down slides).  This material ultimately cracks or breaks.  I did all the install myself so I can provide a voice of been there and done that.  Chris Throgmartin has you measuring the slides and such and then supplies the plates that are custom fabricated for your slide….as well as the particular slide.  My history.

Rear bedroom slide had a “dent” or a cavity.  Came from a bump or pothole where the roller damaged the 5/16 Lower “plywood”…which also had a thin vinyl laminate.  I filled the void with Bondo.  Had an extra wide lower surface to cover where the roller ran but extended to the side and turned up.  The other one was a narrower one.

Front drop down slide had the nylon runners failing.  Two Guardian plates that worked or were where the rollers were as well as the nylon cam or ramp that lifted and lowered the slide

Other rear bedroom had 4 plastic rollers.  Installed Guardian plates on each side and two plain plates for the other 2 rollers

[96 EVO]

What is the black material out at the ends of the plates? 

Looks like some kind of tape?

Another question regarding having them installed at Talin. When I received my slides, I believe the instructions included not moving the slides for several days while the 5200 set-up.

Does Chris just keep stuffing you with fresh lobster till this happens 😎? 

Edited April 21, 2023 by 96 EVO

[Lenny D]

4 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

I spent the last few days at Tailin RV & Stone Vos Inc shops having my roadside slides fitted with Guardian Plates. The previous owners did not maintain the corners and the bottom of those two slides very well. In fact, the large salon slide had some very thin SS covering the bottom ends that were partially glued on with two screws at each end to hold it in place. Luckily, they both came off easily. One end of my rear closet slide had the thin covering the bottom separating from the plywood base.

For those two reasons, I decided to have the Guardian Plates installed so I will never have to worry about them ever again. Photos attached.

While there, I discovered some additional work that will need to be done next winter when we return to Florida. Two small sections of the bottom beltline will need to be repaired and the double bulb flip seal around the large salon slide will need to be replaced.

I also talked with Ingrid, the owner of Stone Vos Inc about making tire covers for the Dynasty and replacing the topper over the large roadside slide.

Both places, Talin RV and Stone Vos Inc. are my go-to places for having the BEST products and the very BEST technical service and installations. I don't waste my time with other shops when I have the very best only a 3-hour drive from my winter residence. 

Looks great Richard 

[MHRookie]

20 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

What is the black material out at the ends of the plates? 

Looks like some kind of tape?

Another question regarding having them installed at Talin. When I received my slides, I believe the instructions included not moving the slides for several days while the 5200 set-up.

Does Chris just keep stuffing you with fresh lobster till this happens 😎? 

The black items are poly blocks.  Has nothing to do with the plates.

I cannot answer if they feed you for 5 days.

[Dr4Film]

23 hours ago, Marine Boy said:

Thanks for the info and pics.  Would love to know the cost for the plates installed.

As Tom Cherry stated you will need to get an estimate based on the size and style of the plates you need for your specific slide(s).

The plates for any dropdown flush floor slide will be the most expensive versus the ones for a small standard floor slide like my roadside closet slide. Plus, if you have inverted slide rollers like I had in the Windsor with the PBT Kitchen Slide, that would be a completely different cost.

Here is the cost for the two plates and installation: $560 for the flush floor plates and $682 to install. $375 for the small closet raised floor slide plates and $265 to install.

Frankly, their professional installation is well worth the cost in my opinion as they had jacks to raise the slide when needed, grinders to prepare the site for the plates, chemical to prep the site and to clean the plates, many SS pop rivets to secure the plates in place while the 3M cures, and various equipment to get the job done right.

22 hours ago, Tom Whitlow said:

Isn't there plates on the bottom where the rollers are?  They aren't in your photos.

So sorry, I forgot to take photos of the bottoms of the plates. I will do that today and repost those photos.

21 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

What is the black material out at the ends of the plates? 

Looks like some kind of tape?

Another question regarding having them installed at Talin. When I received my slides, I believe the instructions included not moving the slides for several days while the 5200 set-up.

Does Chris just keep stuffing you with fresh lobster till this happens 😎? 

The black tape at the outer ends of each plate is EternaBond Tape. That is installed there to prevent ANY possibility of moisture entering through that corner. I had the choice of white or black, I chose black as white will show marks once you run the slide in and out a few times.

Yes, you have to wait a period of time to let the 3M sealant/adhesive cure prior to using the slide. That's why your appointment for any Guardian Plate installation at their facility will be for a few days versus in and out in one day.

They installed the plates on the flush-floor slide on Wednesday and installed the small raised-floor slide plates on Thursday. We did a slide inspection on Friday morning running the slides in and out to make sure there were no problems. Then we left around 10 am.

We spent one day, Thursday, visiting the Gulf side of Florida and doing some shopping in the area. Not impressed with the Gulf as it looks like one big lake versus the surf we get on the Atlantic side.

Edited April 22, 2023 by Dr4Film

[Tom Cherry]

Richard has a lot of good info.  BUT, for those of us not privileged to live close to Chris....I will offer up a quick run down....or maybe a bit longer.

Materials needed.

2X4's for the jack posts and a power drill/screwdriver and some deck screws.  You make T-Jacks...You measure the length of the legs when you set up and have your jacks in place.  You will need the screw gun later to drill the pilot holes (3/16" and Chris supplies a brand new high quality bit with each kit)

Two Jacks.  I used a cheap hydraulic bottle jack and my rolling floor jack. You can just as easily use the screw type spare tire jack from a vehicle. We are NOT talking about lifting the MH, just raising the slide maybe 1/4" to take it off the rollers....so you can slide the plates in...OK..maybe 3/5".  

Power Grinder (side type).  I recommend two types of wheels.  The standard Grinder (thick 3/16") and also (maybe NOT needed) a thin Cutoff one.  I had to do a little touch up work on the first plates as I failed to communicate and understand the directions (MY FAULT...We engineers don't take well to reading other folks directions...LOL) so I had to cut off a short piece...where I measured from the wrong surface.  The CUTOFF wheel is essential...otherwise you spend a lot of time and grunt grinding a slot....TRUST ME ON THIS... The Power grinder will be necessary when you do the install or the "DEMO" required.

Caulking gun and some acetone (I do NOT like MEK) for final cleanup.  Blue Painter's Tape and rags and a small (maybe) putty knife for touchup. Gloves if you prefer, but cleaning up the final "joint" with a finger, like you do when caulking a bathtub or other joint works.  ACETONE is essential for cleanup.

Pneumatic (Northern Tool or Harbor Freight - cheapie) Pop Rivet Gun.  OR order a 13 - 18" handled (non Power) from Amazon.  Do NOT waste time with a hand squeeze pop rivet gun...you will destroy it after 3 rivets.  These are SS rivets and they don't even break a sweat when you squeeze and tear up your favorite one...like I did...

HOOKED Putty Knife.  The kind with the chisel edges and a hammer.  Maybe some end sheet metal snips.  Obviously whatever you need to disassemble the lower corner of each slide.

Extend the slide.  You will need to disassemble or take off (sometimes glued on) the rain shields or the plastic pieces to get to the lower corner and the upper side of the slide.  SAVE THESE as you will reuse...but LOOK CAREFULLY...take a picture. 

Next...do the DEMO.  There is an aluminum piece of angle with a turned up edge or side on the side of the slide. This has to be ground off.  NOW, as a veteran of 3, I find a trick. I ground a slot into the aluminum about 1" from each end. You are only GRINDING the aluminum angle (on the side) back to where it is flush with the slide wall.  NOT ANYTHING UNDER.  Once I had my Slot, I used a screwdriver and pried out or away from the slide wall the thin piece of aluminum.  Then, with great care...but you learn quickly, I used a hammer and the hooked purtty knife with the chisel (heavy duty) tip.  Once I peeled it back along the edge like a can opener, then I touched up the bottom piece with the grinder and worked the side.  I use the grinder and cut it off...VERY carefully on one side....almost an hour.  The next one was 20 minutes.

Then you dry fit the plates and check and then use the Second jack to hold the plates flush (fitted) with the bottom and drill the pilot holes for the pop rivets.  You apply the adhesive that Chris sends.  This is where it is a judgement call. I used several thin beads, maybe 2" apart.  What I CAN tell you is that once you put the plate in place and get in the bottom rivets...maybe the 4 corners, you then do the side.  After all the rivets are in place, there is some expansion of all the adhesives and most manufacturers recommend keeping the surface or the joint under compression for 24 hours.  I then used both of the T jacks and barely raised the slide to keep the plate in total contact for the strongest bond.

You have to work quickly on the side pieces as the super adhesive, unless Chris has changed it, is a little tough to get smooth like the Proflex. I DID find that the original Monaco installer must, logically, I think, put the rain guards or gutters upside down. I reversed mine and they overlapped the plates nicely and sealed them at the top (like a roofing counterflashing) with the Proflex.

That's the drill.  It was not a tough job and a lot easier than tracing circuits.  You just take your time and do things right.

[Dr4Film]

The folks at Talin RV recommend using Propanol for cleaning the Guardian Plates. Acetone is risky especially around places that are painted. 

They also strongly stated to NOT use ANY chrome polish on the plates as it will remove the shiny surface coating from the plates.

[Dr4Film]

Here are the bottom photos of the Guardian Plates I had installed this past week.

The first two are of the large roadside salon flush-floor slied. The second two are of the roadside closet slide in the bedroom.

[96 EVO]

8 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

 

The black tape at the outer ends of each plate is EternaBond Tape. That is installed there to prevent ANY possibility of moisture entering through that corner. I had the choice of white or black, I chose black as white will show marks once you run the slide in and out a few times.

 

Is that what they are advising now?

No mention of this when I installed my plates.

[Tom Cherry]

Probably good advice....re cleaning of painted surfaces is risky, unless one has experience and all body shops will use it for "stubborn" items like someone putting duct tape over a fender to hold up a dragging bumper.  Those areas (the fenders) will not be repainted....so you do NOT need nor ever should....use an abrasive rag or a piece of panty hose and scrub painted surfaces with Acetone.  Might try Propanol sometime....but I was "trained" in a summer job in a boat manufacturing plant to use acetone....I'll leave it at that.  It DOES work well to remove any pesky residue from the 3M white sealer on the SS plates....this stuff is tough.  Chris' guys probably are a bit more experienced.  I started using Blue tape after the first set.  My DW also helped.  Acetone will NOT tarnish or damage SS.

I see no need to polish or ever "shine" my SS plates.  One set has been on since September, 2016 and the other two have been on since March 2018.  They may be a little less shiny, but they look nice, still.

Now, I don't usually camp on oceanfront sites....Yours look great and I know mine are doing the job...

2 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Is that what they are advising now?

No mention of this when I installed my plates.

My guess is Belt and Suspenders and maybe some feedback. I know, from installing my plates that there was "squeeze out" on all the edges as I put a bead (not excessive but a little thicker) on all the edges, say 1/4" from the edge.... and when I clamped down or pop riveted, there was squeeze out.  But, the EternaBond is probably a 100% fool proof sealer, especially for full timers...

You always learn....

[Stonehands]

Hello Friends. Our coach is a 2013 Diplomat 43 DFT. Driver side slide is a 25' super slide. It's huge. We have had the coach for 3 years. Found under the jack knife sofa which is right behind the drivers seat and the very front corner of the slide had water damage and a section of the floor has rot. Roughly a foot wide section that is all crumbly. If I want to go with Guardian Plates, do I have to first fix that rotted section or will the plates cover up that section. The rest of the entire slide is solid and we fixed the leak so no further damage.

 

[Dr4Film]

7 minutes ago, Stonehands said:

Hello Friends. Our coach is a 2013 Diplomat 43 DFT. Driver side slide is a 25' super slide. It's huge. We have had the coach for 3 years. Found under the jack knife sofa which is right behind the drivers seat and the very front corner of the slide had water damage and a section of the floor has rot. Roughly a foot wide section that is all crumbly. If I want to go with Guardian Plates, do I have to first fix that rotted section or will the plates cover up that section. The rest of the entire slide is solid and we fixed the leak so no further damage.

 

@Stonehands your best advice will come directly from Chris Throgmartin @throgmartinowner of Talin RV who makes and installs the Guardian Plates.

[Tom Cherry]

18 minutes ago, Stonehands said:

Hello Friends. Our coach is a 2013 Diplomat 43 DFT. Driver side slide is a 25' super slide. It's huge. We have had the coach for 3 years. Found under the jack knife sofa which is right behind the drivers seat and the very front corner of the slide had water damage and a section of the floor has rot. Roughly a foot wide section that is all crumbly. If I want to go with Guardian Plates, do I have to first fix that rotted section or will the plates cover up that section. The rest of the entire slide is solid and we fixed the leak so no further damage.

 

When you say “rot” which surface are you referring to?  There is some nomenclature issues here.  The internal floor, under the sofa, which I assume has the rot is the “top” (think PNB sandwich) slice of a vacuum formed “bottom plate or wall” of the slide.  There is a layer or plywood on the top side.  Then various sections or foam (the PNB) then a very thin under layer….or at least that is my understanding.  The Guardian plates do two things.  First, they correct the poor design of the slide wall where it joints the floor.  The plates have a large rectangular surface that is attached to the lower “slice” of the floor.  There is a 2” or so turned up edge.  You actually cut away an inch or so of the aluminum angle on the side wall where the bottom plate joins the sidewall.  Then the Guardian plate is “glued” using a commercial 3M marine sealer/adhesive.  So, the turned up 2” piece is glued to the sidewall and the bottom rectangular section is glued and pop riveted to the thin piece or plywood that you see underneath.  The Guardian plate is made so that and end roller will ride on it and prevent further wear on the thin plywood.  If you have interior rollers, other than the normal one on each end, then you have to add flat plates under where each roller is.

NOW…your full wall side may be different….but on conventional slides, both raised as well as flat (drop down), this the repair technique.  I have one of the first designs as well as one for my drop down.

Therefore, if you have the top “slice” with rot, that section has to be demoed out and a suitable section of floor installed and the joints need to be at a perline or lower support or else, the foam is removed and a custom piece or support is installed to support the joint.

NOW….MEMORY….and Chris is the expert, there was a design flaw that caused water penetration from the top….Chris has written posts about how that needs to be addressed.  Bottom line….if there is a gap or joint issue between the side wall and the floor and that’s the source….the Guardian plates Will fix that.  But, if the leak was from a design or construction error along the top….NOPE.

You have to determine the point of the leak….then see what the fix is….

[Guest Ray Davis]

Welcome Jerry,  as Richard said Chris is your man, he makes the Guardian plates and I think that after talking to him he will decide.  I believe they custommake the plates so quite possibly they can completely cover the area in question.

BTW,  Milkman has a nice ring to it.  Stonehands better describes me.  LOL

Think about this,  I remember the milkman, 🥸 and I had an aunt & uncle that still had the iceman bring a block of ice & put it in their icebox.          I still hear a few people call the refrigerator the icebox, I doubt they know why it's called that, but now you know. LOL

Edited July 6, 2023 by Ray Davis

[Tom Cherry]

6 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Welcome Jerry,  as Richard said Chris is your man, he makes the Guardian plates and I think that after talking to him he will decide.  I believe they custommake the plates so quite possibly they can completely cover the area in question.

BTW,  Milkman has a nice ring to it.  Stonehands better describes me.  LOL

Custom is what they have been as you provide Chris with critical measurements and photos.  

[Stonehands]

Thank you everyone. Great information. Our floor that rotted is the 3/4" inch plywood floor the rollers run on. I cut out a bigger piece and replaced so the coach would be solid but could'nt under the 4 to 6" piece that was under the sidewall. When I roll in the slide sometimes small pieces of plywood chips are dragged in. If I can get access to this my plan was to repair with a wood epoxy made for this purpose so the guardian plates would have something to attach to. I will get some pics to share. Many thanks everyone.

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Stonehands said:

Thank you everyone. Great information. Our floor that rotted is the 3/4" inch plywood floor the rollers run on. I cut out a bigger piece and replaced so the coach would be solid but could'nt under the 4 to 6" piece that was under the sidewall. When I roll in the slide sometimes small pieces of plywood chips are dragged in. If I can get access to this my plan was to repair with a wood epoxy made for this purpose so the guardian plates would have something to attach to. I will get some pics to share. Many thanks everyone.

With the Guardian plates, assuming you have an aluminum angle which is the outer frame, you will cut (grind) off the vertical piece.  Chris makes the plates custom.  So, depending on where the roller is….you always have a new plate that the roller rides on.  Without pictures (always welcomed and make it easier to visualize, the theory is that the plate carries or spreads out the contact area for the roller.  So, the plate will always start at the sidewall/floor intersection and extend as far as is necessary to go past the roller…maybe 2 or 3 inches. In essence, the repair will probably consist of demolition of the side aluminum’s turned up piece.  Then removing all or most of the rotted wood.  Then drying it out.  There is a special primer for most of the “rotted wood” kits that you saturate the “mushy-wet” wood with.  It is like a penetrating varnish.  Then, you custom fit a piece of Marine Plywood to fit the rotted section.  This does not need to be like a tongue and grooved fit,  Close COUNTS.  You can put in something like Loctite PL to fill in the gaps in the joints and just wipe flat with a wide putty knife.  You want the bottom patch to “fairly level”…belt sand if there are some ridges or protrusions.  THEN fit the plate.  I would try to use a Sharpie and make a rough sketch or line as to the location and shape of the joints.  Maybe take wrapping paper and tape to the bottom and trace or outline the joint perimeter.  Then measure and transfer that to the mating side of the plate and trace around the edges.  This will be important.  You can then use a good sized bead of the 3M adhesive on BOTH sides of joint.  Once you place the plate, with the adhesive beads, I used my T jack post and snugged the plate in place flush with the sidewall…then tapped it forward, into the area under the floor so it was dead on.  Drill a few holes.  Bottom and side.  Put in the corner rivets.  Remove the T jack…drill and put in all the rivets.  Thus your repair is laminated or bonded with the Guardian plate.  It ain’t never gonna be an issue.

I will tell you that Loctite suggests putting the T jacks back in place and barely lifting or compressing the plates against the under side as there is always curing expansion….that gives you a great bond.

[Stonehands]

Tom you response was so well written I can really visualize the process. I will take pics and send in for giggles. 

By the way and I should have mentioned that when we bought the coach, this whole side slide was missing the slide topper. I think it was torn off by previous owner when he drove off and didn't retract the slide. It appears thats the case. Before replacing the topper with new, I got up on the slide and the top membrane had numerous holes in the top allowing water to get into the top of the slide. I replaced the entire top of the slide first and used Eterna Bond on all seams and corners. Then replaced the slide topper with new material. Turned out great and no leaks anywhere. I also checked the other slides and they are all tight and dry and in good shape. 

Previous owner was elderly and was told his first coach ever and it was too much for him. Coach is in great shape but I have had to make many repairs to things he neglected and damage he did to things. 

[Steven P]

On 7/6/2023 at 9:33 AM, Stonehands said:

Hello Friends. Our coach is a 2013 Diplomat 43 DFT. Driver side slide is a 25' super slide. It's huge. We have had the coach for 3 years. Found under the jack knife sofa which is right behind the drivers seat and the very front corner of the slide had water damage and a section of the floor has rot. Roughly a foot wide section that is all crumbly. If I want to go with Guardian Plates, do I have to first fix that rotted section or will the plates cover up that section. The rest of the entire slide is solid and we fixed the leak so no further damage.

 

When I took mine in, the amt of rot on one side was bad.  Chris's team fixed the rot before applying the guardian plates.  

[Twomed]

Picture worth a thousand words.... Mike's video will help you decide whether you have the time/skills to do the job of install.  Or if you live a long way from Florida. 

I chose to do mine and had no issues.  The grinding of the end strip is may not be necessary because it is simply a J shaped extrusion that protects the bottom edge of the glass end wall in the OEM design.   After initially starting to grind the thing the outboard end just popped out and I pulled the strip out with Vise Grips.  I also used quick dry 5200 that is less runny and sets up in less time.  Discussed that with Chris when I did it because I have experience with 5200 in marine applications. 

My pics below BUT AS ALWAYS your trim may be different, so maybe start with a grind on the outside end first.  This piece adds nothing to strength and the whole edge will be completely encapsulated in 5200 and stainless steel when finished.  Makes the job a whole lot easier!! 

[Steven P]

Here are some pics of the rot I had.  @throgmartinsaid my surface area was close to the limit of repairing without pulling the whole slide out.  That area has a large plate there now after they removed all the rot and repaired it.