Replacement New Alternator Problems - 06 diplomat - Including follow (8-10-23) discussion

[waterskier_1]

11 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Larry, Rick,

Here is the Chassis Wiring file converted to PDF.  I used large format so you can zoom in close...

38041505 Chassis Wiring.pdf 509.79 kB · 4 downloads

Also, I went by the coach and confirmed my 2006 Dip does indeed have a L-N 110-192 (AKA LBP2180).  It is wired as per the diagram Rick provided above (which I added to our files).

 

On 7/10/2023 at 6:53 AM, Larry Laursen said:

I had a similar experience with my 05 Endeavor. My Alt Fail light came on last summer. I removed the relay in the compartment below the driver's window for the rest of the trip. This was the second or third time doing this.  I had it at the shop that fixed it in the past this spring; however, they couldn't fix it. New techs and service writers. While driving this past month to MI the Park Brake light was also on.  I discovered that when I turned on the high beams the Park Brake light went out.  I had an appointment arranged at Speed Wench in Hudsonville MI. They found a short in the daylight running light (DRL) circuit that had blown 2 fuses. They removed the DRL relay and everything worked. Now I don't have DRL but don't need the.  I have tried to find the connection between the DRL and the Alt Fail circuits from the schematics but haven't been able to do it.

REGARDING "DUVAC"

Monaco used the DUVAC alternator when they installed the Cole-Hersee solid state dual battery charger (DBC) system.  Thus, the DUVAC connection on the alternator is not used on needed on coaches without the DBC. The alternator is self-energized on coaches below Imperial and Windsor before 2004 and everything after that.  YES, the schematic drawing for the non DUVAC coaches still show the DUVAC connected to the alternator. I have this drawing: 38041505 Chassis Wiring.dwg which is in the files section.

I recommend Speed Wrench if in west Michigan: Contact Speed Wrench Today | Heavy Duty Repairs | Body Shop

I had that drawing, but it shows a DUVAC Alternator, and an ALT-FAIL relay circuit.  This is different from what is being reported by owners.  The Drawing seems to be obsolete, or at least not up to the current configuration of as-built coaches.

  -Rick N.

 

[vanwill52]

I will admit I have only skimmed this post, but here are some observations from experience.

1) If genny is running while driving, there is always a chance the "Alt Fail" light will come on.  Shut of the genny or pull on the headlight switch and see if it goes off.

2) Rick (waterskier) is correct--Measure voltage AT THE BATTERY TERMINALS to determine whether that is the problem or not.

3) DUVAC will always be a PITA, as almost NO ONE understands why a "generic" alternator will not work with a Sollid State Isolator.  Install the ML-ACR and it won't matter WHAT alternator you use--It will work.  Until the DUVAC alternator is replaced, you will always be at the mercy of mechanics who do not understand what the remote sensing is for...and will almost invariably hook up the new alternator incorrectly.  With the ML-ACR, even a Klutz mechanic will get it right.  There are many more good reasons for the ML-ACR changeover, but precluding problems with needing a very specific alternator will be eliminated.

[trstaska]

MODERATOR's EDIT

This topic was discussed at length in an original post.  This is a FOLLOW UP and should not have had a new thread as all the details were lost.  The new topic has been merged into the older one for continuity.

NOTE TO ALL MEMBERS.  Please do not start a new topic when the original one was not that old.

Thanks

End of Edit

So i am the one who broke down with a frozen alternator on theMass Pike about a month ago. So I took some time to get a new hip and now I am ready to get back to the alternator problem. As I previous stated, I have a new (Wilson 160 amp) alternator installed. Between Massachusetts and Minnesota, the "Alt/charge" light and alarm started intermittently blinking on and off. The voltage at the batteries and on the Silverleaf never drops below 13.6 and the alarm stops at 14.0 but it doesn't maintain at 14 or above. The old LN alternator always ran a little under 14.0 on the average with no alarm and no problems. Is there a way to set the voltage to run a little higher or a way to reset the alarm parameters? I don't want to listen to the alarm all the way to Florida when we take off next month. Also, I just installed new chassis batteries

                                                                      TR Staska 06 Dip

[waterskier_1]

It depends.  I've never heard of a Wilson Alternator.  But in general, there is a voltage regulator, either externally mounted (like on a firewall or fender in a car) or mounted on or in the alternator (called internally mounted since there is no separate component).  Some Voltage regulators are adjustable.  Some are fixed.  In any case, you should be getting 14.2 - 14.4 volts measured AT the chassis battery (not a Silverlear or dash gauge).  If you do not have that voltage AT the chassis battery, either the alternator or the cabling between the alternator and the battery is bad.  Assuming that this Wilson alternator has an external tap on the stator coil, which is where most Alt-Fail circuit monitor the voltage.  My 06 Dip drawings show that is the case, but I believe there was a discussion a while back that some of the drawing were wrong/outdated.  I don't think that affected the Alt-Fail Stator pickup, but instead had to do with the Duvac sensor.  

  -Rick N.

 

[diplomat don]

17 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

It depends.  I've never heard of a Wilson Alternator.  But in general, there is a voltage regulator, either externally mounted (like on a firewall or fender in a car) or mounted on or in the alternator (called internally mounted since there is no separate component).  Some Voltage regulators are adjustable.  Some are fixed.  In any case, you should be getting 14.2 - 14.4 volts measured AT the chassis battery (not a Silverlear or dash gauge).  If you do not have that voltage AT the chassis battery, either the alternator or the cabling between the alternator and the battery is bad.  Assuming that this Wilson alternator has an external tap on the stator coil, which is where most Alt-Fail circuit monitor the voltage.  My 06 Dip drawings show that is the case, but I believe there was a discussion a while back that some of the drawing were wrong/outdated.  I don't think that affected the Alt-Fail Stator pickup, but instead had to do with the Duvac sensor.  

  -Rick N.

 

Rick, Wilson is a major Reman electrical company, nationwide. I use to see there semi trucks everywhere in my travels.

Edited August 10, 2023 by diplomat don
punctuation

[waterskier_1]

29 minutes ago, diplomat don said:

Rick, Wilson is a major Reman electrical company, nationwide. I use to see there semi trucks everywhere in my travels.

Thanks.  I've never considered a remanufactured (other than rebuild of the original) alternator.  So, the question really is "what manufacturer's alternator (and model)  did Wilson remanufacture?

  - Rick N 

[RedSectorA]

On 7/11/2023 at 8:26 PM, vanwill52 said:

3) DUVAC will always be a PITA, as almost NO ONE understands why a "generic" alternator will not work with a Sollid State Isolator.  Install the ML-ACR and it won't matter WHAT alternator you use--It will work.  Until the DUVAC alternator is replaced, you will always be at the mercy of mechanics who do not understand what the remote sensing is for...and will almost invariably hook up the new alternator incorrectly.  With the ML-ACR, even a Klutz mechanic will get it right.  There are many more good reasons for the ML-ACR changeover, but precluding problems with needing a very specific alternator will be eliminated.

Just as a warning to the group, after I installed a Blue Sea ML-ACR I hooked up a LN AVI160J2008 210 amp alternator.  This alternator is a competitor to the Delco Remy 28SI.  It worked fine for 4 hours of drive time but then the regulator blew on it, went back to the place I bought the alternator (they suggested that unit) and confirmed it was defective.  After a discussion with an RV expert at the distributor for LN they told me this alternator was not compatible with any type of isolator (according to them even the magnetic kind) and the reason it blew had to do with the inverter conflicting signal to the alternator.  I installed a 28Si and after 6 hours of run time it's working well so far.

I have no opinion, just relaying what I was told.

[waterskier_1]

1 hour ago, RedSectorA said:

Just as a warning to the group, after I installed a Blue Sea ML-ACR I hooked up a LN AVI160J2008 210 amp alternator.  This alternator is a competitor to the Delco Remy 28SI.  It worked fine for 4 hours of drive time but then the regulator blew on it, went back to the place I bought the alternator (they suggested that unit) and confirmed it was defective.  After a discussion with an RV expert at the distributor for LN they told me this alternator was not compatible with any type of isolator (according to them even the magnetic kind) and the reason it blew had to do with the inverter conflicting signal to the alternator.  I installed a 28Si and after 6 hours of run time it's working well so far.

I have no opinion, just relaying what I was told.

I'm not sure why you chose to use the LN AVI160 210 Amp alternator and then installed any sort of isolator when the Prestolite Website specifically states:

 Part Notes : Verify application. Will not work on applications using battery isolators.

Good lesson for all to ensure when replacing parts, especially alternators, to verify they are indeed interchangeable.  I can't count the number of times I've helped owners who have purchased the wrong alternator and want to rewire the coach to make it work, or it flat out will not work and they have to buy the correct alternator.  Wisdom has shown that rebuilding the original alternator is the best approach to ensure compatibility.  

  -Rick N.

[RedSectorA]

2 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

I'm not sure why you chose to use the LN AVI160 210 Amp alternator and then installed any sort of isolator when the Prestolite Website specifically states:

 Part Notes : Verify application. Will not work on applications using battery isolators.

Good lesson for all to ensure when replacing parts, especially alternators, to verify they are indeed interchangeable.  I can't count the number of times I've helped owners who have purchased the wrong alternator and want to rewire the coach to make it work, or it flat out will not work and they have to buy the correct alternator.  Wisdom has shown that rebuilding the original alternator is the best approach to ensure compatibility.  

  -Rick N.

You're right but when I went to them they guaranteed it was a direct replacement to the 28SI and they had verified fitment.  I had not checked suitability.  My comment is more to the fact that I often read that you can use any alternator with a Blue Sea ML-ACR when it's not exactly true.

 

[waterskier_1]

10 minutes ago, RedSectorA said:

You're right but when I went to them they guaranteed it was a direct replacement to the 28SI and they had verified fitment.  I had not checked suitability.  My comment is more to the fact that I often read that you can use any alternator with a Blue Sea ML-ACR when it's not exactly true.

 

I think it is true, for any original Monaco alternator, or proper substitute.  I'm sorry you got lead the wrong direction.

  -Rick N.

[Ivan K]

I did not have to switch to the Blue Sea unit yet but something feels fishy to me with the RV expert explanation. Isn't your system wired so that the alternator always sees full voltage of at least one set of the batteries directly and regulates accordingly? I would not consider ML-ACR an isolator in respect to alternator hookup but rather a switch that adds or removes the second set and yes, it can require way more amps from your 210A unit when latched but hardly more than it can supply if you don't have some crazy amp demand. And the "inverter conflicting signal" blame is ever weirder to me. Ok, maybe you had generator running while driving and charging the house or maybe both. So what, it would just make it easier on the alternator. Unless I totally misunderstood the ML-ACR function and wiring, I have a problem with their explanation and would suspect plain voltage regulator failure.

[johncvandoren@gmail.com]

On 7/8/2023 at 7:59 PM, waterskier_1 said:

According to my 2006 Diplomat Wiring Diagram, you do indeed have a DUVAC Alternator.  This type of alternator is used to sense the voltage somewhere other than the output of the alternator.  That "somewhere" may be on the battery side of an isolator where there is a voltage drop between the alternator input and the battery itself (typical of a Solid State Isolator with Diodes).  That somewhere may also be at the end of a longer run of cable, which could have a voltage drop due to the distance and current.  You do not have a Solid State Isolator, but instead have an IRD (Isolator Relay Delay).  

In any case, the Sense wire of the DUVAC MUST be connected, or the alternator will assume there are zero volts (an open) and attempt to run at max output, eventually overheating and possibly burning itself up.  

I wonder if the correct alternator was installed, or if it the alternator was installed correctly.  I say this because you should have 14.2 - 14.4 volts at the chassis battery when the alternator is running.  You state you only have 13.8 - 13.9.  The ALT-FAIL relay is a 6 volt relay (likely the only 6-volt relay in the coach) which gets its input from one of the three windings on the alternator.  If the alternator output drops, so does the voltage on the winding, causing the ALT-FAIL relay to drop out and the ALT-FAIL light to come on.  

One other thing that can cause the ALT-FAIL light to come on is to have another charging source connected to the chassis battery.  This is usually the battery charger when running the generator.  But your coach doesn't automatically charge the chassis battery from the inverter/charger.  Also, solar charging can cause this, if the solar is connected to the chassis battery.

You really need to know the voltage AT THE CHASSIS BATTERY when the ALT-FAIL light comes on to determine if it is the alternator, wiring of the alternator, or other circuitry causing the light to come on.

  -Rick N.

Thanks Rick, Glad to know that it’s the second source charging issue if I turn on the generator for roof AC while the inverter is on for the fridge & basement ice maker while on the road.  Does that mean I should turn off the inverter while the generator is on?

[waterskier_1]

2 hours ago, johncvandoren@gmail.com said:

Thanks Rick, Glad to know that it’s the second source charging issue if I turn on the generator for roof AC while the inverter is on for the fridge & basement ice maker while on the road.  Does that mean I should turn off the inverter while the generator is on?

John, if you have the generator running (or are connected to shore power) your inverter/charger senses that, and does NOT invert, but instead simply passes the 110 Volts AC through.  It is impossible for the inverter with 110 VAC connected to it to be in inverter mode.  Instead, it is in battery charger mode (assuming you have enabled the battery charger).  So you don't need to do anything on the 110 VAC side when running the generator.

This discussion has to do the the inverter battery charger (when there is generator or shore power) will confuse the ALT-FAIL circuitry that monitors the main engine Alternator.  It see the inverter/charger charge voltage, along with the engine alternator charge voltage and gets confused.  Later modes have correct this issue by simply disconnecting the ALT-FAIL light when the generator is running.  Not the best solution, since you theoretically could have the alternator fail, when the generator is running, and there would be warning.  In your case, you can either put an additional load - like Van said, the headlights, which will allow the ALT-FAIL circuit to work better, or, simply temporarily  shut down the generator to confirm the ALT-FAIL light goes out.  

  -Rick N.

Wheatland, WY (on my way to Gillette, WY for MI Pre-Rally and FMCA Rally)

 

[johncvandoren@gmail.com]

Rick, thanks.  I’m told that the “charge only” setting is a misnomer, in that it will allow the inverter to provide any power the batteries can’t.  I’m not sure about that.  There is a device that serves as a timing relay which allows either the inverter/charger or the alternator to charge one bank and then the other.  The alt light/alarm only comes on if I am already running the inverter, and turn on the generator to power the AC, and then only after both have been on a while.  Enjoy Gillette.  See you in Indio in January.

[RedSectorA]

On 8/11/2023 at 4:49 PM, Ivan K said:

I did not have to switch to the Blue Sea unit yet but something feels fishy to me with the RV expert explanation. Isn't your system wired so that the alternator always sees full voltage of at least one set of the batteries directly and regulates accordingly? I would not consider ML-ACR an isolator in respect to alternator hookup but rather a switch that adds or removes the second set and yes, it can require way more amps from your 210A unit when latched but hardly more than it can supply if you don't have some crazy amp demand. And the "inverter conflicting signal" blame is ever weirder to me. Ok, maybe you had generator running while driving and charging the house or maybe both. So what, it would just make it easier on the alternator. Unless I totally misunderstood the ML-ACR function and wiring, I have a problem with their explanation and would suspect plain voltage regulator failure.

Hi Ivan,

I'm no electrical engineer but as mentioned before LN do warn that their 160J2008 alternator somehow does not work with an isolator.  I assume the ML-ACR is an isolator so that would make their case.  My sense wire is now connected directly to the chassis battery bank so it technically sees one battery only, that was done when I installed the ML-ACR.  My initial comment was more to warn that running any alternator (as some have mentioned before) with an ML_ACR does not appear to be true, it may not be as sensitive as the old DUVAC system but I would stay within the parameters of an alternator that's confortable with isolator/dual battery banks.  

Inverter conflicting signal is also far fetched to me but again this is not my world of expertise, I've seen a lot of pseudo expert in my life so can't comment on the validity of it.  What I  understand from all of this is the ML-ACR is some form of isolator and should be treated accordingly in terms of alternator choice.

I skipped over some of the details of why I changed to an ML-ACR but let's just say I was stranded at rush hour in a construction zone to realize my alternator was fried (literally) due to a short which also took out the yellow DUVAC wire (the voltmeter on the dash too).  The DUVAC feed to the ignition relay was boiling hot with the thermal breaker popping constantly.  Since one of the lower bracket broke when I took the alternator out I had no choice to buy a new alternator.   With none DUVAC compatible in Canada I figured I might as well go straight to ML-ACR for simplicity and alternator availability.  It was a fun adventure to say the least, truth be told I can take the alternator out in less than 15 minutes now 🙂.

In all honesty I just want it to run and so far it's been doing that and more with the 28SI.

Sorry original thread owner for hijacking your thread.

Dan

[jacwjames]

I installed the Bluesea MLACR back in 2021 when I started to suspect my house/chassis battery system wasn't working.

I did the standard install including adding the switch on the dash.  They do also show how to wire in an isolation function that will turn the MLMRC off if the generator is running.  I did do this but left the fuse out, I wanted to see if it was actually necessary, and have run that way for ~13K miles. 

I will admit that I don't usually run with the generator on, I have in a couple occasions and have not seen a problem so I left the fuse out.

I have seen a couple of occasions that my alt fail light came on but I've simply turned on the headlight and it goes off, this is happened a couple times. 

 

[vanwill52]

The ML-ACR is just a heavy-duty switch which when ANY charging source is available connects both battery bank's charging cables together...IFF the engine batteries have risen to a suitable charge level. It does have voltage sensing circuitry to not connect the house batteries to the engine batteries until the engine batteries have risen to a suitable charge level.  This is a simplification, but you essentially tie the output of your alternator PLUS the charging cable going to your engine batteries to the SAME large post on the ML-ACR.  Therefore, your alternator is ALWAYS charging the engine batteries, regardless of the switching state of the ML-ACR.  The HOUSE battery charging cable connects to the engine batteries when the engine batteries have risen to a suitable level.

The ML-ACR has some sophisticated features that will isolate sensitive electronics during engine starting, for instance.  But most folks do not need those extra features.  You just want a simple, near-bulletproof system that never fails you.  Blue Sea's warranty says it all--"We guarantee this device for as long as you own it."  PERIOD.

No, I have no affiliation with Blue Sea.  But their products are known for their impeccable design and construction quality in every sector of the marine environment.

[Tom Cherry]

31 minutes ago, vanwill52 said:

The ML-ACR is just a heavy-duty switch which when ANY charging source is available connects both battery bank's charging cables together...IFF the engine batteries have risen to a suitable charge level. It does have voltage sensing circuitry to not connect the house batteries to the engine batteries until the engine batteries have risen to a suitable charge level.  This is a simplification, but you essentially tie the output of your alternator PLUS the charging cable going to your engine batteries to the SAME large post on the ML-ACR.  Therefore, your alternator is ALWAYS charging the engine batteries, regardless of the switching state of the ML-ACR.  The HOUSE battery charging cable connects to the engine batteries when the engine batteries have risen to a suitable level.

The ML-ACR has some sophisticated features that will isolate sensitive electronics during engine starting, for instance.  But most folks do not need those extra features.  You just want a simple, near-bulletproof system that never fails you.  Blue Sea's warranty says it all--"We guarantee this device for as long as you own it."  PERIOD.

No, I have no affiliation with Blue Sea.  But their products are known for their impeccable design and construction quality in every sector of the marine environment.

LOL,  What took you so long to chime in and make it simple….? Thanks….

[vanwill52]

Sometimes I feel like I am a spokesperson for Blue Sea.  I don't mean to be.  It is just such a simple, yet elegant, solution for a long-standing problem.  And is applicable to sooo many cases of charging problems.  Just buy the damned thing, install it according to the instructions, and kiss all your alternator interchangeability problems goodbye.  The BIRD is an unnecessarily complex system that can be so easily replaced with the Blue Sea ML-ACR.

[Scotty Hutto]

On 8/11/2023 at 11:36 AM, waterskier_1 said:

 Part Notes : Verify application. Will not work on applications using battery isolators.

On 8/11/2023 at 10:06 AM, RedSectorA said:

Just as a warning to the group, after I installed a Blue Sea ML-ACR I hooked up a LN AVI160J2008 210 amp alternator.  This alternator is a competitor to the Delco Remy 28SI.  It worked fine for 4 hours of drive time but then the regulator blew on it, went back to the place I bought the alternator (they suggested that unit) and confirmed it was defective.  After a discussion with an RV expert at the distributor for LN they told me this alternator was not compatible with any type of isolator (according to them even the magnetic kind) and the reason it blew had to do with the inverter conflicting signal to the alternator.  I installed a 28Si and after 6 hours of run time it's working well so far.

I have no opinion, just relaying what I was told.

I think the RV expert at the distributor had his wires crossed. The Alternator Application & Conditions of Use notes for the Leece-Neville AVI160J2008 alternator specifically state:

2.1.3 A fuse should be fitted to prevent reverse battery connection causing an alternator failure. Fuses should also be used to protect cables from damage due to system short circuits. It is sometimes useful for servicing to fit a battery isolation switch in line between alternator and battery.

The ML-ACR is a type of battery isolation switch. 

There is no other mention in the document for this specific alternator of a battery isolator. 

If I had to guess, I’d say the statement from Prestolite mentioned above is in reference to solid state battery isolators. 

[waterskier_1]

6 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

 

I think the RV expert at the distributor had his wires crossed. The Alternator Application & Conditions of Use notes for the Leece-Neville AVI160J2008 alternator specifically state:

2.1.3 A fuse should be fitted to prevent reverse battery connection causing an alternator failure. Fuses should also be used to protect cables from damage due to system short circuits. It is sometimes useful for servicing to fit a battery isolation switch in line between alternator and battery.

The ML-ACR is a type of battery isolation switch. 

There is no other mention in the document for this specific alternator of a battery isolator. 

If I had to guess, I’d say the statement Rick mentions is in reference to solid state battery isolators.

First, that was not my statement, I merely quoted Prestolite. 

Second,  an "isolation switch" is a switch designed to be used to isolate (remove) the alternator from the battery.  The note you quote is describing a fuse to protect the alternator should a short occur.  It then mentions that it is sometimes useful to be able isolate (separate) the battery and the alternator during servicing either the alternator or the batteries. This is not the same as an "battery isolator" which is designed to keep two (or more) battery systems "separated" from each other.  It is easy to isolated battery systems.  The difficulty is charging two (or more) separate systems while keeping the systems isolated (separate) from each other.  A device that does this is commonly called an isolator.  There are many ways to do this; solid state diodes) electric mechanical relays (solenoids) electronic switches, etc.  

Even though I am an Electrons Engineer, I did not design, nor have access to design documentation, so I can not explain why the design engineers felt it necessary to and the not about usage with a (battery) isolator.  I would accept the manufacturers recommendations and find a suitable replacement. 

  - Rick N

Gillette,, Wyoming 

[vanwill52]

1 hour ago, waterskier_1 said:

First, that was not my statement, I merely quoted Prestolite. 

Second,  an "isolation switch" is a switch designed to be used to isolate (remove) the alternator from the battery.  The note you quote is describing a fuse to protect the alternator should a short occur.  It then mentions that it is sometimes useful to be able isolate (separate) the battery and the alternator during servicing either the alternator or the batteries. This is not the same as an "battery isolator" which is designed to keep two (or more) battery systems "separated" from each other.  It is easy to isolated battery systems.  The difficulty is charging two (or more) separate systems while keeping the systems isolated (separate) from each other.  A device that does this is commonly called an isolator.  There are many ways to do this; solid state diodes) electric mechanical relays (solenoids) electronic switches, etc.  

Even though I am an Electrons Engineer, I did not design, nor have access to design documentation, so I can not explain why the design engineers felt it necessary to and the not about usage with a (battery) isolator.  I would accept the manufacturers recommendations and find a suitable replacement. 

  - Rick N

Gillette,, Wyoming 

[Scotty Hutto]

1 hour ago, waterskier_1 said:

First, that was not my statement, I merely quoted Prestolite. 

Second,  an "isolation switch" is a switch designed to be used to isolate (remove) the alternator from the battery.  The note you quote is describing a fuse to protect the alternator should a short occur.  It then mentions that it is sometimes useful to be able isolate (separate) the battery and the alternator during servicing either the alternator or the batteries. This is not the same as an "battery isolator" which is designed to keep two (or more) battery systems "separated" from each other.  It is easy to isolated battery systems.  The difficulty is charging two (or more) separate systems while keeping the systems isolated (separate) from each other.  A device that does this is commonly called an isolator.  There are many ways to do this; solid state diodes) electric mechanical relays (solenoids) electronic switches, etc.  

Even though I am an Electrons Engineer, I did not design, nor have access to design documentation, so I can not explain why the design engineers felt it necessary to and the not about usage with a (battery) isolator.  I would accept the manufacturers recommendations and find a suitable replacement. 

  - Rick N

Gillette,, Wyoming 

I stand corrected.

I modified my statement above to clarify, remove any attribution to you, and eliminate any confusion that it is my opinion and only my opinion.

I find it very confusing that they would use very similar terms for two completely different devices, one recommended and one prohibited: battery isolator and isolator switch. An isolator switch IS a battery isolator, regardless of its intended purpose (i.e., maintenance), and based on that I "supposed" the issue was about solid state battery isolators, which have been proven to cause problems. I also suppose if they meant solid state battery isolators, they should have said exactly that.

In the end, though, I totally agree with your final statement.  Better to use an alternator known to be compatible with the system than to chance it and dispute semantics  or discern what manufacturer meant when there are better (and typically less expensive) options.

[waterskier_1]

11 minutes ago, Scotty Hutto said:

I stand corrected.

I modified my statement above to clarify, remove any attribution to you, and eliminate any confusion that it is my opinion and only my opinion.

I find it very confusing that they would use very similar terms for two completely different devices, one recommended and one prohibited: battery isolator and isolator switch. An isolator switch IS a battery isolator, regardless of its intended purpose (i.e., maintenance), and based on that I "supposed" the issue was about solid state battery isolators, which have been proven to cause problems. I also suppose if they meant solid state battery isolators, they should have said exactly that.

In the end, though, I totally agree with your final statement.  Better to use an alternator known to be compatible with the system than to chance it and dispute semantics  or discern what manufacturer meant when there are better (and typically less expensive) options.

I think the confusion may be that the isolation switch would be used only when servicing (troubleshooting, diagnosing) the system when you would need the batteries to be disconnected from the alternator only while performing that service.  Agent the isolation switch was engaged, the batteries would no longer be connected to the alternator.  In no way would this be useful under non-servicing conditions, since the alternator couldn't charge the batteries.  This might be useful in resistance checking the diodes or the windings (stator or rotor) when there cannot be any voltage present (other than that which is provided within the ohmmeter.  Isolate & isolator are commonly used terms, often adjectives but sometimes morphed into nouns,  that can be applied to many different situations and devices.  Consider the word "red". You can have a red wire, or a red box, and neither have to association with the other. 

  - Rick N 

[vanwill52]

Listen to Rick. He, like Tom Cherry, is a smart fellow.