Apartment Washer Dryer Combo

[diverdown204]

Has anyone tried to install one of these in their Monaco Dynasty?  I should have my 1998 Monaco Dynasty mid week, this week. I need to install a washer and dryer. After all that I have read on the Splendide combo, and with my family size, I think I’m going to opt for a residential/apartment combo. Has anyone tried this?  Anyone have tips or suggestions that before I start this endeavor?  Obviously,  I’m new to my rig but my kids and I are super excited to get it. No wife. I was taking applications but a beautiful woman from the Philippines dropped her resume by and passed the initial interviews, so we are moving on to the practical examinations. I have a feeling that I’ll be offering her the full time position!  😬

Thanks everyone!  

[Dennis T]

My Safari had compact size 110v washer and dryer that Monaco installed after purchase for the first owners.  It was a top loader washer on the bottom and front loader dryer on the top.  It already had an outside vent.  The washer was failing so I replaced the washer with a electrolux front loader and a Samsung 220v front loader dryer.  It was quite involved fabricating structure to secure the dryer and installing a subpanel to get the 220v to the dryer.  The end result is great but realize the dryer only works with 50 amp or generator power.  For your case the extra weight might be an issue.  We had Splendide in a previous motorhome and rarely used it. It wook forever to wash and dry a small load.  Since this is your first motorhome I would start out using laundrymats until you get your feet wet.  Just my opinion.

[bklaes]

I installed a vent-less LG Combo (slightly-used-made-for-an-apartment) unit 6 years ago and still pleased.  Loads do take a long time.  But a load is started at bed time is finished in the morning.     It's heavy.   It's very heavy.  No way the Monaco-designed particle board shelf and shelf supports (2 screws and staples on each side) would ever hold it so the shelf and supports were reinforced.

We are not full timers.  When we head out, we pack enough clothss to last the entire trip, and don't count on using the W/D.  But it is sure convenient when it is needed.  There is nothing wrong using laiundromats, I'm just not a laundromat kind of guy.

Edited August 28, 2023 by bklaes

[dandick66]

We have the Splendide stacked washer and dryer.  The washer works good, but the dryer is slow due to being 110.  I would think you’d have a problem getting one of those combo units through the door.  I agree with Dennis - put this on the back burner until you get your feet wet and lear/deal with any other issues and problems that might come up.  In the meantime, do a lot of research and see if you can find a smaller sized washer and dryer that you can fit in the door and work on if necessary.  

[diverdown204]

Sorry guys, I worded my OP poorly. I’m knew to THIS rig and do not know it’s capabilities like real wood verses particle board and such.   Previously, I had a 5th wheel and lived full time with 5 kids and a wife, but that was a few years ago.  Now, two kids are grown and gone and so is the wife. So it’ll be me and (periodically) three kids. I did the laundromat shuffle enough to be done with it, so I have to figure out a more permanent solution. I’ll be full timing for at least a year, maybe more. I am grateful for your comments and am excited to be a part of this community!  
 

Semper Fidelis!

Lance

[timaz996]

Here is what my 2000 Dynasty has and it looks like your setup. My washer dryer is just behind the toilet room. Your rig doesn't have a driver vent going to the outside like mine does.

Edited August 28, 2023 by timaz996

[birdshill123]

We have had the standard spledide. To put it bluntly they suck. And it is just the 2 of us. With your family you would hate that setup. One of those one piece top and bottom units would be ideal. We have a stacked unit and it works well. Sometimes you can find the one pice top and bottom at used appliance shops.

 

[diverdown204]

Thanks Bruce!  I’m seeing the 120v models for about $1200 new. I’ll get one of those if I have to. But yeah, I’ll definitely be on the lookout. Thank you! 

[Larry Laursen]

We have had 3 Splendides in 3 MH's over the last 28 years, wife wouldn't be without it and have had very few problems. Yes, the drying is slow, but it has only 120 volts at 15 amps. The size of the load is limited by the space in the MH.  Unless you change the voltage and size of the unit, I don't think you will see much difference in performance. We are not full-timers and there are only 2 of us but have been out for 5–7-month time frames.  Normally the wash is started in the morning and proceeds through the dry cycle.  We just go and do our things during the day.

[StellaTariche]

On the subject of 120v vs 240v dryers….
 

(and I should know this but dont)

Why can’t we run a 240V dryer off the genset (Onan 7500w for me) or 50A service?

phase issues?

because a 240V dryer would sure work better, right?

Thanks,

- John, (the guy with a 5V EE degree who still gets shocked on the toaster on Saturday mornings)

[Guest Ray Davis]

John,  I'm out of my league here but you and I can't run 240v appliances from our generators because they don't put out 240.

Our gens simply connect both legs together when we use it.  Shore power should provide 240 if it's true 50 amp.  Some parks connect both legs and call it 50 amp.

Coaches with the larger 10k & 12k do have 240v, I think, but not sure.

Edited August 29, 2023 by Ray Davis

[Larry Laursen]

Quote

1 hour ago, StellaTariche said:

On the subject of 120v vs 240v dryers….
 

(and I should know this but dont)

Why can’t we run a 240V dryer off the genset (Onan 7500w for me) or 50A service?

phase issues?

because a 240V dryer would sure work better, right?

Thanks,

- John, (the guy with a 5V EE degree who still gets shocked on the toaster on Saturday mornings)

 

John,  The 7.5 and 8.0 KW Onan generators use an inverter to give 2 legs of 120 volt ac. The 2 legs are in-phase and will show 0 volts when measured across the legs. Thus, you only get 120 volts and the neutral carries the sum of the current used on both legs. You potentially center tap the heater and wire 2 circuits to the heater.  However, I would only recommend for an electrician vs an EE who gets shocked by the toaster. 🤣LOL.  The 10 and 12 KW Onan generators are true 240/120 volt units.  However, the normal household W/D is 240 volts at 30 amps, which is  4 times the the power of 120 at 15 amps.  Anyone expecting similar performance is going to be very disappointed. 50 amp shore power is 240/120 however the internal wiring of the MH doesn't accommodate that to the W/D except on high line units.

[Raymond]

I’d really like to know how this turns out—ventless-dryer in motorhome. We installed a ventless-dryer in a residential property we own and we absolutely love the way it leaves the clothes when dry. I would like to replace (when the time comes) the current vented-dryer in our coach with a ventless-dryer to avoid moisture passing through the wall to the exterior. Water (moisture) in a motorhome is a continuous worry/concern I often think about and inspect. 

[CAT Stephen]

Lance,

 

Your 1998 Monaco Dynasty is 120VAC single phase.  The photos you provided confirms that you have all plumbing and electrical required to run 120VAC compact washer and dryer appliances. 

The only washer and dryer units that will fit your space are the "compact" size which measure  24"W x 23"D for each unit.   Be very careful before considering compact dryers deeper than 23" depth (many on the market are deeper than 23" which may prevent you from attachaching the dryer vent).  For compact washers, you can go beyond 23", but you must verify that you have sufficient room to the supply hoses and drain hoses.

You must attach the appliances to the RV to prevent damage to the appliances.  Your existing shelf does not have the structural integrity to support a standalone dryer so be prepared to reinforce that shelf or remove the shelf entirely then purchase or build a support structure.  Most non-mobile appliances were not made to attach to anything as they are freestanding, so be ready for an attachment subproject if you utilize compact appliances not intended for mobile use. 

Here are some options for your consideration.  In all cases, buy the extended warranty as almost all these units except the first unit were not made for mobile use:

- The most compact combo unit made for mobile use (Single unit washer & dryer in one), but low capacity: Splendid WFL1300XD http://www.splendide.com/portfolio-details_WFL1300XD.html

- Conventional compact (stackable) washers and dryers: Not all these will fit due due to dryer depth beyond 23":

    - https://www.homedepot.com/b/Appliances-Washers-Dryers-Laundry-Centers/Compact/Electric/N-5yc1vZc3oxZ1z0posyZ1z1bjys?onDisplay=false

    - https://www.lowes.com/pl/Shop-appliance-special-values/1015369011?int_cmp=Home%3AA1%3AAppliances%3APromo%3AFW29_23_Appliance&catalog=4294857981&refinement=2978381694,4294930999,4294883444,4294964369,4294964406,4294963418,4294883772,1510253409119,1721241396430,4294553830,4294570313

My personal favorite combo from the above selection is the LG ThinQ compact series because they have a stacking kit and a 10 year drive warranty.  I have personally experienced excellent reliability with my existing household LG washer and dryer.  The dryer below has an integral ventless system.  This ventless system utilized two (2) heat pumps instead of electric induction to provide heat with all moisture collected and ejected as condensation into your existing drain:

- https://www.lowes.com/pd/LG-Front-Load-Washer-with-Steam-Cycle-White-ENERGY-STAR/5001643625

- https://www.lowes.com/pd/LG-4-2-cu-ft-Side-swing-Electric-Dryer-White-ENERGY-STAR/5001643699

If you purchase a conventional dryer that does not have an integral ventless system with condensate separation, then I strongly recommend that you vent the dryer to the outside.  Here are the steps:

- Purchase a stud finder with both metal stud detection and 120VAC detection such as this product: https://www.amazon.com/Stud-Finder-Wall-Scanner-Microprocessor/dp/B0C4Q3XJ94/ref=sr_1_5?crid=P8XYE61JOAFC&keywords=stud%2Bfinder&qid=1693358012&sprefix=stud%2Bfinder%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-5&th=1

- Purchase an inspection bore scope such as this product: https://www.amazon.com/Daxiongmao-Borescope-Endoscope-Waterproof-Inspection/dp/B0C3R381FC/ref=sr_1_6?crid=IFMPM66MWH4D&keywords=inspection+camera&qid=1693357433&sprefix=inspection+camera%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-6

- Purchase a Dryer Vent kit: https://www.amazon.com/Westland-VI422-Standard-Dryer-Vent/dp/B003VAT5AM/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3MFKQRTGT7CU5&keywords=dryer+vent+kit&qid=1693357806&sprefix=dryer+vent+kit%2Caps%2C111&sr=8-8

- Purchase clear or white Geocel ProflexRV sealant (Do not use silicone!!): https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-GC28100-Flex-Flexible-Clear/dp/B001FC98X2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1VE3J6NGY7S3X&keywords=prorv%2Bsealant&qid=1693358161&sprefix=prorv%2B%2Caps%2C109&sr=8-3&th=1

- Purchase a 4.25" hole saw such as: https://www.amazon.com/Qjaiune-Bi-Metal-Smoothly-Cornhole-Fiberboard/dp/B089GXHVJ9/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1K300U6S3EO8L&keywords=dryer%2Bvent%2Bhole%2Bsaw&qid=1693358380&sprefix=dryer%2Bvent%2Bhole%2Bsaw%2Caps%2C123&sr=8-7&th=1

- With your rig attached to shore power, use a stud finder to locate the optimal point where steel studs are not present (studs are metal on your coach) then also scan that area for electric wiring using your stud finder in A/C detection mode. This area should be as close as possible to where the dryer exhaust is located.

- Drill a pilot hole large enough to insert a bore scope to inspect the proposed dryer vent location to inspect the are to ensure there are no utilities such as 12V wiring and plumbing.

- Upon validation with the bore scope, proceed to drill the dryer vent hole with the 4.25" hole saw

- Test fit the dryer vent kit then cut the dryer vent pipe to a size that permits the installation of two (2) hose clamps

- Pre-drill pilot holes to accommodate the kit screws

- install the dryer vent kit using a generous amount of Geocel ProFlexRV sealant

- install your washer and dryer, attaching the appliances to your rig.

 

NEVER run washers and dryers while you are on the road as severe damage can occur to the appliances.

Lance, please share your journey on this forum!

Edited August 30, 2023 by CAT Stephen

[diverdown204]

Holy Cow Cat Stephen!   That was an amazing write up!  Thank you so much!  I have no doubt that I’ll be able to come up with a workable solution with these instructions!  Thanks so much!  
 

Semper Fi,

Lance

[timaz996]

Just to add to my post. I have to be plugged into 50 amp to run my dryer with heat. (it's 240 volt) It will tumble with the generator or 30 amp but no heat. (I have a 7.5 gen) It doesn't matter to me because I don't use the washer/dryer dry camping anyway.

[Tom Cherry]

On 8/29/2023 at 10:30 AM, StellaTariche said:

On the subject of 120v vs 240v dryers….
 

(and I should know this but dont)

Why can’t we run a 240V dryer off the genset (Onan 7500w for me) or 50A service?

phase issues?

because a 240V dryer would sure work better, right?

Thanks,

- John, (the guy with a 5V EE degree who still gets shocked on the toaster on Saturday mornings)

All the past posts are correct.  The smaller Gennys are NOT 240 like the larger 10 & 12's

In addition, there is no provision on your panel (circuit breaker) to add a 240 VAC line.  It probably can be done...but without seeing how it was planned, I would be leery that it meets NEC.  

Bottom line, all MH, except for the upper ends that had provisions for a 240 VAC device...FROM THE FACTORY are only supposed to be used for 120 VAC devices.  

Hope this and the other comments helps.

19 minutes ago, timaz996 said:

Just to add to my post. I have to be plugged into 50 amp to run my dryer with heat. (it's 240 volt) It will tumble with the generator or 30 amp but no heat. (I have a 7.5 gen) It doesn't matter to me because I don't use the washer/dryer dry camping anyway.

Curiosity....just HOW did you get the 240 VAC from the existing main panel. The only way would be to put in TWO separate Breakers, one on each side...and they are not Interlocked or TIED together...as in if ONE trips, the other would still have power.  That is a nightmare and then the downstream outlet would be LIVE on the NOT Tripped side of the "240" VAC receptacle

Did you tap in on the L1 and L2 side and then send to a sub panel with a 240 receptacle and then attach the cable.

Pictures and a schematic would be great...

[StellaTariche]

Tom,

Thanks for the education on the differences between home 240V systems, RV GenSet 240V and Pedestal 240V systems, capacities and wiring.

And since I don't want to see my skeleton light up (like those shocking cartoon electrocutions), I think I'll leave my wiring as is (or consult my engineers who are NEC electricians and CE Safety certification experts) 

best,

- John

 

On 8/29/2023 at 9:48 AM, Larry Laursen said:

John,  The 7.5 and 8.0 KW Onan generators use an inverter to give 2 legs of 120 volt ac. The 2 legs are in-phase and will show 0 volts when measured across the legs. Thus, you only get 120 volts and the neutral carries the sum of the current used on both legs. You potentially center tap the heater and wire 2 circuits to the heater.  However, I would only recommend for an electrician vs an EE who gets shocked by the toaster. 🤣LOL.  The 10 and 12 KW Onan generators are true 240/120 volt units.  However, the normal household W/D is 240 volts at 30 amps, which is  4 times the the power of 120 at 15 amps.  Anyone expecting similar performance is going to be very disappointed. 50 amp shore power is 240/120 however the internal wiring of the MH doesn't accommodate that to the W/D except on high line units.

"I would only recommend for an electrician vs an EE who gets shocked by the toaster. 🤣LOL"

Me, the Toaster, and the fork
Every. Single. Saturday.
You'd think I'd learn, but no... 

[timaz996]

57 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

All the past posts are correct.  The smaller Gennys are NOT 240 like the larger 10 & 12's

In addition, there is no provision on your panel (circuit breaker) to add a 240 VAC line.  It probably can be done...but without seeing how it was planned, I would be leery that it meets NEC.  

Bottom line, all MH, except for the upper ends that had provisions for a 240 VAC device...FROM THE FACTORY are only supposed to be used for 120 VAC devices.  

Hope this and the other comments helps.

Curiosity....just HOW did you get the 240 VAC from the existing main panel. The only way would be to put in TWO separate Breakers, one on each side...and they are not Interlocked or TIED together...as in if ONE trips, the other would still have power.  That is a nightmare and then the downstream outlet would be LIVE on the NOT Tripped side of the "240" VAC receptacle

Did you tap in on the L1 and L2 side and then send to a sub panel with a 240 receptacle and then attach the cable.

Pictures and a schematic would be great...

I didn't do any of the above. It's factory. This coach has a lot of custom order stuff that's not in Monaco options lists in their brochures. Here is a picture of my 120v panel. 

[Tom Cherry]

13 minutes ago, timaz996 said:

I didn't do any of the above. It's factory. This coach has a lot of custom order stuff that's not in Monaco options lists in their brochures. Here is a picture of my 120v panel. 

thanks...that DOES explain it.  Hard to see how they did it...but if is factory....then drive (DRY) on..

Thanks

[timaz996]

You're welcome. These coaches are snowflakes but I love mine.

[hitechpete]

On 8/28/2023 at 7:17 AM, diverdown204 said:

Has anyone tried to install one of these in their Monaco Dynasty?  I should have my 1998 Monaco Dynasty mid week, this week. I need to install a washer and dryer. After all that I have read on the Splendide combo, and with my family size, I think I’m going to opt for a residential/apartment combo. Has anyone tried this?  Anyone have tips or suggestions that before I start this endeavor?  Obviously,  I’m new to my rig but my kids and I are super excited to get it. No wife. I was taking applications but a beautiful woman from the Philippines dropped her resume by and passed the initial interviews, so we are moving on to the practical examinations. I have a feeling that I’ll be offering her the full time position!  😬

Thanks everyone!  

I live in the UK, when my washer dryer expired, I fitted a standard size domestic Hoover washer dryer. In my present 5th wheel I have a stacked domestic (Grundig) direct drive washer and above that a Grundig direct drive condenser dryer, both run off 240v.

Edited August 31, 2023 by hitechpete
Voltage added

[Ivan K]

2 hours ago, hitechpete said:

I live in the UK, when my washer dryer expired, I fitted a standard size domestic Hoover washer dryer. In my present 5th wheel I have a stacked domestic (Grundig) direct drive washer and above that a Grundig direct drive condenser dryer, both run off 240v.

Maybe one day you could share what all has to be done to convert a US coach to European  power plugs and hookups. Just out of curiosity...

[Rich Cutler]

My Windsor was purchased used with 4000 miles, one year old from Lazy Days in FL (when it was still the old Lazy Days).  They did a conversion for the original buyer to Bosh washer/ dryer.  The dryer is 240v.  Yes, you have to be connected to shore 50 amp and it is vented to the outside.  We can do many loads fast, just like home.  Strange the buyer wanted the conversion since they were not full-timers.  They did not even remove the stickers from the inside of the shower.  

Lazy Days informed us they tried to talk the buyer out of the conversion to 240v, but he was mind set on Bosh appliances.  Nice coach, probable one of the last true Monaco coaches.  We added wood floors and wood slides.  Kept the tile kitchen and bath.

[bklaes]

On 8/29/2023 at 1:32 PM, Raymond said:

I’d really like to know how this turns out—ventless-dryer in motorhome....

I've been running the LG vent-less combo unit for 6 years.  No issues.  I was hesitant to install vent-less fearing over heating inside the cabinet, but that hasn't happened.