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2000 Dynasty Alignment Out of Wack!


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We have an alignment issue with our 2000 Dynasty.  Our steering box is a TRW from Weller.  We had the front end aligned a couple of years ago and replaced the steering box.  Today I was doing some work on the MH and decided to check the box.  The timing mark on the sector shaft line up perfectly with the mark on the outside of the box.  See first pic.  As I was crawling out from under the MH, noticed the wheels are not pointing straight forward.  Place a long piece of 1 1/2 inch aluminum angle iron against the lug nut covers and sure enough, the wheels are canted to the right.  See 2nd and 3rd pic.  In addition, the steering wheel is way off center. See 4th pic. The last photo shows the adjustable drag link.  I would like to get the adjustment close before taking it to a semi-truck alignment shop.  Does anyone have any advice as to how to remove the drag link from he pitman arm.  TRW says not to use a hammer.  Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. God Bless Ed & Sylvia

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Guest Ray Davis

Hi Ed,  there are a few different types.  Here is a cheapo on Amazon.  81sXLojUtqL._AC_SR160,134_QL70_.jpgAmazon.com: Orion Motor Tech 5-in-1 Ball Joint Separator, Pitman Arm Puller, Tie Rod End Tool Set for Front End Service, Splitter Removal Kit (RB06) : Automotive

You can buy a single puller but a kit will allow you to take many different things apart.   I would go to Harbor Freight or Northern & see what they have.                           This is a common type.  e1be8553-440a-41a7-bb01-83895500f506._SR150,300_.jpg                                                                                                                                                                                            Did this just happen or has it been this way since it was aligned?    If it drives ok when you get the wheels straightened out you may not need an alignment  otherwise they should have made it right from the get-go.

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I'm not sure your method of using angle aluminum on the lug nut covers is accurate.  Those covers just push on and are not the same from one to the next.  

If it was off as much as your picture shows you would have severe tire wear on the edge.  

Do not remove the drag link!  If you change the drag link position your steering box will have a different number of turns from right to left lock.  

To straighten your steering wheel, first aim the tires straight forward.  Then remove the rubber cover over the lower steering shaft where it goes through the floor.  There is a pinch bolt you remove and then pull upward on the shaft off the splines and reposition it onto the splines with the steering wheel clocked correctly.  Some of the coaches have a slightly different setup where the sterring wheel shaft meets the splines.  

Edited by vito.a
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1 hour ago, Notn2bars said:

We have an alignment issue with our 2000 Dynasty.  Our steering box is a TRW from Weller.  We had the front end aligned a couple of years ago and replaced the steering box.  Today I was doing some work on the MH and decided to check the box.  The timing mark on the sector shaft line up perfectly with the mark on the outside of the box.  See first pic.  As I was crawling out from under the MH, noticed the wheels are not pointing straight forward.  Place a long piece of 1 1/2 inch aluminum angle iron against the lug nut covers and sure enough, the wheels are canted to the right.  See 2nd and 3rd pic.  In addition, the steering wheel is way off center. See 4th pic. The last photo shows the adjustable drag link.  I would like to get the adjustment close before taking it to a semi-truck alignment shop.  Does anyone have any advice as to how to remove the drag link from he pitman arm.  TRW says not to use a hammer.  Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. God Bless Ed & Sylvia

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I can't quite tell from the picture because the mounting bracket is in the way, but for minimal steering wheel play, the sector shaft absolutely must be set at 90 degrees to the input shaft.  If that's what you did in the photo, and the wheels are that far off (assuming that driving down the read the steering wheel is straight) then either the pitman arm was put in the wrong position and/or the drag link is either too long or short.  BTW, being that far off you would have a lot a steering wheel play.

Note - there should be no daylight at the end of the drag link tie rod where it is clamped.  If there is, the tie rod at the end of the drag link is extended out too far and the pitman arm needs to be repositioned.

Keep in mind that the steering wheel clock spring also must be centered.  Since the gearbox was replaced, it would be good to verify that your steering wheel clock spring is centered when the steering column was attached to the gearbox with the sector shaft at 90 degrees to the input shaft.

if you need them, there are service manuals in our files.

 

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I thought that what you were describing is more in the neighborhood of toe in,  and can't that be adjusted with tie rod ends?  I might just be missing the point or too dumb to do alignment work I'm not sure which.  I know having the timing marks aligned is your baseline and that's important but if the tie rods were out of sink on the old steering gear maybe they need to be adjusted into proper toe in for both Wheels with your wheel centered.

I agree with the comment that maybe your angle iron (aluminum) method is not precise.  Maybe you should have it on an alignment machine before you make any decisions.   I have the blessing of having an alignment appointment with Kaiser alignment in Eugene later this month.  Just talking to Cary I realized that he understood more about our suspension and our alignment than the other four alignment shops I've been to combined.

Edited by TomV48
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30 minutes ago, TomV48 said:

I thought that what you were describing is more in the neighborhood of tow in,  and can't that be adjusted with tie rod ends?  I might just be missing the point or too dumb to do alignment work I'm not sure which.  I know having the timing marks aligned is your baseline and that's important but if the tie rods were out of sink on the old steering gear maybe they need to be adjusted into proper toe in for both Wheels with your wheel centered.

We are talking about the drag linkage from the steering gearbox to the drivers side steer knuckle.  Tie rods between the two steer tires are a separate issue.  True, in cars, you would adjust wheel tie rods to center the steering wheel but on trucks you have an adjustable drag link and its position on a pitman arm to the steering gearbox. When you change the gearbox, the pitman arm needs to be aligned and the drag link set to the correct position.

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Thanks to all of you for taking the time to reply.  This is some additional info that may help in answering my question. There was an inordinate amount of play in the steering.  Took the MH to a semi truck alignment place hoping they could help with the wandering issue and play in the steering.  Didn't help.  Installed rear cross bars and went on a trip to Niagara Falls.  Stopped on the way back and picked up a steering box at the Weller factory.  Had the box installed at a local alignment shop.  Took the MH to South Padre for a short trip.  Noticed no improvement in the wandering and steering box play.  Haven't used the MH for about a year.  So getting ready to head to South Padre again, and while getting the MH ready, discovered the issue I have described.  So this would explain why the steering has been so sloppy.  Evidently the folks who have worked on the coach didn't know what they were doing.  When I turn the wheels straight ahead, the steering wheel is still off center and the marks for the sector shaft don't line up.  God Bless, Ed and Sylvia

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I would call Matt Miller at Weller Truck and should be able to talk you through it. 616-724-3762 cell

He putting together a TRW box and pitmen arm for me now and will have it installed in Twin Falls, ID in about a week.

He told me he can talk my installer through the install in a few minutes and was happy to do so.

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4 hours ago, jacwjames said:

I noticed from your one picture that you have the rear jacks down and tires on blocks.  Wonder if you put the coach down on all 4 tires and move it a little if this would go away.  I know when mine is jacked up and I let it down the steering wheel moves. 

That is definitely true.
The drag link angle affects steering wheel centering.
It's minimal when at normal ride height, but if outside that range, the change can be drastic.
All alignment measurements should be on a level platform and at normal ride height.

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Glad to be able to report some positive. Ray,  I adjusted the slack in the gearbox, but it really didn't do much because everything else was out of sink.  With the help of my son-in-law we were able to remove the rear tie rod in from the knuckle arm.  Since we could not locate a puller large enough to fit the front of the drag link we tackled the rear.  Had to use an impact wrench, a 3 lb sledge hammer, a wrench and a torch. We made a complete rotation on the drag link and this more or less lined up the front tires with the rear tires.  Unfortunately we tore the boot and it needs to be replace. After we did the above, the steering was so much better.  Wasn't having to fight the slack in the steering constantly, made driving the MH a much more enjoyable experience.  Will tackle the rest of the repairs when the weather cools down. Still need to align the steering wheel and replace the boot.  Then I'll see if I can find a different shop to laser align the front. Tim, thanks for the name and number will store it with other important/helpful numbers. Jim, David, Richard, Frank, Tom and Vito.  God's blessings on all who took the time to look in and offer suggestions and advice.  Ed & Sylvia

Edited by Notn2bars
left info out.
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