Swap Power Supply for Microwave and Non-inverted Outlets Circuits

[Bill R]

I searched for this topic and did not find anything.

Current Problem:  I do not like using inverted power for the microwave.  In fact it is our practice not to.  We only use the microwave when on gen or shore power.  Also, we cannot use the outlets by the bed, or the entire Driver's side of the coach when we are on inverted power.   This is a nuisance for many reasons.

Proposed Solution:  Swap the power supply for the two circuits.  So, this would mean to power all of the current non-inverted outlets from the inverter's 120V 15A power leg that is currently powering the microwave.    And, power the microwave from the 120V 20A breaker that is currently supplying power to all of the non-inverted outlets.   I am very adept to doing this as I have upgraded and retrofitted many houses and know 120V circuitry very well. 

Question:  Any reason why not to do this AND any tips/advice to doing this?

[windsorbill06]

Is your inverter the original magnum MSW?  Mine made my microwave hum like crazy.  Seemed like it got worse as everything got older.  I replaced the inverter, but went a totally different direction.  

As you know, you power goes from your ATS to the breaker panel in rear closet, then back  down to the inverter.  There it splits off and goes to 2 circuits (microwave and a few outlets--breakers on inverter).

If your going to run all the plugs from the inverter, your going to need to run 2 circuits (maybe 3) back from the inverter to the panel to pick up those other outlet circuits and then deal with how to power the microwave---you may need to set a junction box in the basement..  You might consider setting a sub panel just for the inverter fed outlets in the rear closet.

Lots of ways to do it.  We just got back from a boondocking trip.  Ran the microwave  or the convection oven between 30-90 minutes each day on inverter power alone--we didn't start generator for 4 days.  I don't think we could do without the micro/convection connected to the inverter, but that's us.

Edited November 4, 2023 by windsorbill06

[96 EVO]

I can't see a reason.

Think they run the bedside outlets on their own breaker for folks that use heated bedspreads. Apparently they use a fair bit of power, and don't like MSW power.

My drivers side outlets all run on inverted power.

[windsorbill06]

3 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

I can't see a reason.

Think they run the bedside outlets on their own breaker for folks that use heated bedspreads. Apparently they use a fair bit of power, and don't like MSW power.

My drivers side outlets all run on inverted power.

my 06, as best I can remember, the inverter ran the fridge ice maker, microwave, a couple outlets in the kitchen and bathroom and the front/rear TV's.  If you wanted to run an electric blanket,  you'd have to run it to the bathroom, but with the MSW inverter, you'd probably ruin it before it got warm

[96 EVO]

I have an outlet powered thru the inverter in the bedroom, outside the TV cabinet.

We've never used heated blankets though.

[Rocketman3]

Electric blankets don’t use much power.  I find we use less power in the winter by having the electric blanket on at whatever comfort setting we want and have the furnace low. The furnace uses much more power - especially when it keeps coming on at night.

I changed out my inverter to a Victron Multiplus 3000 (plus 540ah of lithium batteries). We run everything we want  - microwave, computers, etc.  Our only limits are air conditioner is limited to one hour - then need to start the generator.

 

Good Luck

[cbr046]

Re-wiring the panel is easy . . . . if you've got a wire stretcher.

Just thinking out loud, but my concern would be balance.  My understanding is the side that supplies the bedroom also supplies one (or both) roof AC's.  If the microwave was added to that side it might overload it.  Or not, just a hunch.  If you were to flip one AC wiring with the microwave that would keep the balance.  Hopefully having the 2 (or 3) roof AC's on different phases isn't an issue. 

I blew up my electric blanket by running an extension cord to the bathroom then running that off the inverter.  Literally smoked the controller!  Still trying to figure that out.

- bob

 

[waterskier_1]

3 hours ago, Bill R said:

I searched for this topic and did not find anything.

Current Problem:  I do not like using inverted power for the microwave.  In fact it is our practice not to.  We only use the microwave when on gen or shore power.  Also, we cannot use the outlets by the bed, or the entire Driver's side of the coach when we are on inverted power.   This is a nuisance for many reasons.

Proposed Solution:  Swap the power supply for the two circuits.  So, this would mean to power all of the current non-inverted outlets from the inverter's 120V 15A power leg that is currently powering the microwave.    And, power the microwave from the 120V 20A breaker that is currently supplying power to all of the non-inverted outlets.   I am very adept to doing this as I have upgraded and retrofitted many houses and know 120V circuitry very well. 

Question:  Any reason why not to do this AND any tips/advice to doing this?

Theorically there is nothing wrong with this, other than it might make the coach less sellable.  Practically, it seems it would be a daunting process to rewire. From your description, I'm guessing your coach doesn't have an Inverter Sub-panel.  This means you solo have to fish the wires from the inverter,  oops, first you need to install a Junction Box to add more wire to the microwave wires, then fish them back to the main power panel.  Then another Junction Box to extend the bedroom outlets so they can be fished up to the inverter.  

  - Rick N 

[windsorbill06]

9 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

Re-wiring the panel is easy . . . . if you've got a wire stretcher.

Just thinking out loud, but my concern would be balance.  My understanding is the side that supplies the bedroom also supplies one (or both) roof AC's.  If the microwave was added to that side it might overload it.  Or not, just a hunch.  If you were to flip one AC wiring with the microwave that would keep the balance.  Hopefully having the 2 (or 3) roof AC's on different phases isn't an issue. 

I blew up my electric blanket by running an extension cord to the bathroom then running that off the inverter.  Literally smoked the controller!  Still trying to figure that out.

- bob

 

Do you have a MSW inverter?   My dad smoked 2 electric blanket controllers before he realized those 2 don't play well together.

[waterskier_1]

10 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

Re-wiring the panel is easy . . . . if you've got a wire stretcher.

Just thinking out loud, but my concern would be balance.  My understanding is the side that supplies the bedroom also supplies one (or both) roof AC's.  If the microwave was added to that side it might overload it.  Or not, just a hunch.  If you were to flip one AC wiring with the microwave that would keep the balance.  Hopefully having the 2 (or 3) roof AC's on different phases isn't an issue. 

I blew up my electric blanket by running an extension cord to the bathroom then running that off the inverter.  Literally smoked the controller!  Still trying to figure that out.

- bob

 

The likely reason you damaged you electric blanket is the MSW inverter output didn't play well with the elections in the thermostat control. 

 - Rick N 

[cbr046]

6 minutes ago, windsorbill06 said:

Do you have a MSW inverter?   My dad smoked 2 electric blanket controllers before he realized those 2 don't play well together.

Xantrex inverter . . . I'm sure it's a MSW.  I won't try the controller for the other side! 

tnx,

- b

[Bill R]

Thank you for all the comments so far.  One important note I should have mentioned is that we do not boondock for long periods of time.  Only 1-2 days max during travel, or weekend stay somewhere.   And we have no problem firing up the generator when needed.

9 hours ago, windsorbill06 said:

If your going to run all the plugs from the inverter, your going to need to run 2 circuits (maybe 3) back from the inverter to the panel to pick up those other outlet circuits and then deal with how to power the microwave---you may need to set a junction box in the basement.

Bill - You are so correct as you know my coach is similar to yours.  Right now my approach is to put JB's in the basement that will accomplish the swap.  Only 2 circuits involved.  I do have the original MSW inverter.  

9 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

We've never used heated blankets though.

Ben - we do not use heated blankets either.

9 hours ago, cbr046 said:

Re-wiring the panel is easy . . . . if you've got a wire stretcher.

Just thinking out loud, but my concern would be balance.

Bob - great point, fortunately two A/C's on different legs.   

9 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

Theoretically, there is nothing wrong with this, other than it might make the coach less sellable.  Practically, it seems it would be a daunting process to rewire. From your description, I'm guessing your coach doesn't have an Inverter Sub-panel.  This means you solo have to fish the wires from the inverter,  oops, first you need to install a Junction Box to add more wire to the microwave wires, then fish them back to the main power panel.  Then another Junction Box to extend the bedroom outlets so they can be fished up to the inverter.  

Rick - I have not traced all the wiring yet, but the approach will be to intercept the wiring downstream from the panel.  Install a JB for each of the two circuits and do the swap out there.   This will require fishing two wires in between the two JB's to complete the circuit.  I can easily install one JB by the inverter and swap power there, the challenge will be to find the outlets wire coming from the panel and intercepting there with a JB.  I hope to keep this coach for some time, but if it did affect resale, I could easily swap back to original design at the JB's. 

I have already done some fishing of wire on this coach.  One was to remove the refrigerator circuit from GFCI inverted circuit.  Another is a longer story involving the dryer (not combo so pulls more amps).  I have discovered that it really is not bad running wires, lots of room in basement ceiling plenum, just locating the one you want is the challenge.   A lot easier than fishing wire in house attics with no head space down exterior walls.  

I have more homework to do as far as mapping out where all the wiring is running, but so far I am not hearing anyone say, STOP!   I am going to work on identifying how the wiring runs next week and report back what I find.  Any other thoughts, please keep them coming. 

 

Edited November 4, 2023 by Bill R

[Steven P]

Here's a list of my wiring in my 06 Dip.  Yours may not be the same, but it may help.  I swapped the fridge line to the supply line on the GFCi so if it tripped,  we wouldn't lose our beer....er food. 

[windsorbill06]

I think your biggest challenge is to intercept the circuits downstream of the main panel. I guess I don't understand how you're going to do that.    I don't even know if they are in the basement or not.  I could be wrong, but I think one circuit that is not inverter fed is in the ceiling.  

If you can't find it in the basement, a sub panel up by the main breaker box is an easy alternative, then run 2 circuits from inverter to it.  The romex behind the main box is long enough to easily switch.

It hasn't been mentioned, but I'd consider upgrading the inverter to PSW since your in the basement doing all this work.    I was originally going to do that during Covid (2020-2021) but the magnums were backordered indefinitely.     

Edited November 4, 2023 by windsorbill06

[Bill R]

41 minutes ago, Steven P said:

Here's a list of my wiring in my 06 Dip.

Thank you Steven - you have a garbage disposal?  First time I have seen that.

 

40 minutes ago, windsorbill06 said:

I think your biggest challenge is to intercept the circuits downstream of the main panel.

It will be a challenge.  I am thinking most likely I may have to intercept the wiring for the outlets after the bedroom outlets.  I know that runs in ceiling plenum of the basement to go to the driver slide outlets which is really the outlets I want on the inverter.  I'll draw a diagram once I have traced the wires.

[jacwjames]

Amazing how differently these coaches are wired, must have been a revolving door of the designers/engineers who did layouts.

I have the main service panel and then a subpanel for the inverted circuits.  I only have one none inverted circuit that provided power to behind the refrigerator  and then the block heater circuit. 

I had a problem in 2021 that ultimately resulted in me removing both the main & sub panels.  Sounds scary but wasn't that bad.  I had to figure out why one of my inverted circuits was causing the generator to shut down, which ultimately was caused by a short in the wiring in the ceiling.  I had to get creative to find a work around. 

But based on what I had to do it might be easier to just swap the wires in the main and sub panel (assume you have one) to accomplish what you want to do.   The issue will be whether there is enough slack in the cables.  

I ended up having to run a new wire to the outlet behind the TV, this was the circuit that was bad but the way the wiring was run was complicated by it first running into the ceiling and then to the side cabinet next to the bed and then back into the ceiling to the outlet behind the TV.  The circuit actually used the same conduit that ran to the block heater outlet and then into the bedroom.  I abandoned the first portion of the run and just ran a new wire to the outlet behind the TV that then fed the outlet next to the bed.  It was a pain figuring out the actual path but once I did it was an easy fix. 

[Steven P]

@Bill R yes, but I'm pretty certain the PO put it in.  Right now it's not working due to little use.  Probably gonna just remove it. 

[Tom Cherry]

Great comments….my summary and thoughts…and also a comment or two since there have been a Whole LOT of posts and ingenious folks over the years.

First.  Original Windsors, and presumably, the Dynasty, had a Dual IN, Dual OUT setup.  That provides a Sub-panel where the GFCI(s) were..  The issue of the original Norcold or a Res Refer plagued a lot ot folks.  Many just said “OK….forget NEC….I’m removing the blankety blank GFCI “ .including one of our esteemed founders and a superb Engineer.  We Moderators will label or edit posts where that is a recommendation as it violates electrical safety and common sense.

Second ….there were probably creativity awards for “let’s see how confusing or how UNINFORMATIVE” we can make this model’s prints.  I can hang with most of them.  The Camelot, maybe because I have used them, is the simplest.  In case one has never delved into “How do I find and figure out a circuit” on a later Dynasty, it takes a mind with more “power” than mine….and we have folks here so gifted.  The lack of a line print…where you go to an index….look up the “gee what is this” item….then get a print number.  Then find, in the Harness section, the harness(s) and then look at both a male and female drawing and select the pin(s) you need…then imagine how they are connected and do a mental “picture” and then start to troubleshoot…using up to 3 prints…and NOT on a single print gives me a headache… BUT, there are many Dynasty prints that I can now locate and use….some of the earlier lower ends had a “cross” of both.  

FWIW.  There was, I was, told by “JIM” the elder tech support,  that there was a huge rivalry or perhaps “lack of communication” and each thought that their electrical group was superior.  NO “CONSOLIDATED” engineering organization….so each group had total control and the electrical…which was a big issue and fights had almost broken out at the water cooler.  Maybe a bit of embellishment, but NO CENTRAL or common format.

Third.  HOW the OP finally does it?  Ideally, the simple (to me…feel free to flame….nicely…LOL). Install a J-Box upstream of the inverter.  Split the feed there.  Use split bolt connectors properly insulated per NEC (there is a method outlined many places).  Run one 30A feed to the Inverter….so, it works as before.  Run the second or a parallel feed to either a J-Box…or if really OCD, a subpanel with a 20 A single breaker.  Then pull the Microwave or “Line 2” out of the inverter and attach there.  Same power usage.  No real change to diversity of the Inverter’s circuits..  then, YES, one has to have Genny or have AC power to the main for the microwave to work.  I would, as I did, put a 15 A cube surge suppressor on the outlet above the microwave where it is plugged in.

All here, seem to be  cognizant of the issues with GCFI and defrost coils or icemaker heaters….so, while tracing circuits, determine the best way to get a “LINE” not a “LOAD” direct feed to the Icemaker outlet and NOT through a GFCI.

[96 EVO]

15 hours ago, Bill R said:

 

Current Problem:  I do not like using inverted power for the microwave.  In fact it is our practice not to.  

I too stopped running the microwave on MSW power! Had to replace it a few years back, and this one has never run off the batteries!

[Bill R]

6 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Install a J-Box upstream of the inverter.  Split the feed there.

Tom - I like this idea.  Sort a hybrid of my original thinking except leave the feed direct to microwave as it is after bypassing the inverter.  Less work for me.  Thanks

FYI, There is no subpanel for this Windsor as you describe for some earlier units. 

 

[Tom Cherry]

14 hours ago, Bill R said:

Tom - I like this idea.  Sort a hybrid of my original thinking except leave the feed direct to microwave as it is after bypassing the inverter.  Less work for me.  Thanks

FYI, There is no subpanel for this Windsor as you describe for some earlier units. 

 

Thanks 

The 2004 Windsor was the “last” i think of the “real Windsors” and the Semi Monoque body construction.  The 05…..maybe, but one would have to dig through the ONLINE Monaco’s website’s advertising brochures and look at the “construction” details.  They sort of did a bait and switch and then the Camelot and the Scepter Scepter and Windsor were “born”….don’t hold me to the year and how the “triplets” were born.

My “rule of thumb”.  04 did have a Dual In Dual Out as I helped our founder with his electric issues.  OF THAT I KNOW….

Then the triplets had the newer version.  A Single In Single OUT or 2 circuits.  That’ why yours would be easy to modify. A word about my “split lug” choice as folks may be snickering.  I don’t like wire nuts in a MH, and YES, Monaco used them.  I KNOW that the NEC exempted microwaves and res refers when all the Monaco’s that had GFCI’s upstream of the refrigerators and icemakers were wired that way.  SO…. Monaco was not a stickler for code….and maybe never knew the consequences.  Once Monaco started offering res refers as options, not CARTE BLANCHE, as i have only looked at at least 80% of those prints, they STOPPED and used conventional circuits or NON GFCI Protected.

That “long and boring” dissertation was to clarify that most residential and I know, all industrial & commercial contractors…..as I supervised maintenance and also used outside contractors…..told me when I was installing home generator back feeds for friends….and they had an “abandoned dryer line” and it was  #10 aka 30 Amps…..do NOT USE WIRE NUTS.  That, personally, would “GO DOUBLE” here.

I’ve had to make a few….usually works in a standard box.  In your case, I would set a box ahead of the Inverter.  I would have a #10 in (its there), a #10 out to the inverter and a #12 out to a subpanel of whatever you need for a 20 A breaker.  That’s clean.  My MEMORY…two wraps of a kraft or “paper bag” over the split lug, a special 3 M foam tape (called out in NEC and easily checked online) then maybe 2 wraps….number eludes me.  Then you encapsulate with standard electrical tape…but you make sure you keep tension on the tape (most don’t’ and put maybe 3 there.  That meets NEC…of that I know.

[waterskier_1]

On 11/4/2023 at 7:22 AM, Steven P said:

Here's a list of my wiring in my 06 Dip.  Yours may not be the same, but it may help.  I swapped the fridge line to the supply line on the GFCi so if it tripped,  we wouldn't lose our beer....er food. 

Is is a page from the 2006 Diplomat Wiring Diagrams that show how Monaco intended it to be wired - no guarantee it was actually wired this way, but certainly a good starting point. 

2006 Diplomat AC Wiring.pdf

[waterskier_1]

13 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Thanks 

The 2004 Windsor was the “last” i think of the “real Windsors” and the Semi Monoque body construction.  The 05…..maybe, but one would have to dig through the ONLINE Monaco’s website’s advertising brochures and look at the “construction” details.  They sort of did a bait and switch and then the Camelot and the Scepter Scepter and Windsor were “born”….don’t hold me to the year and how the “triplets” were born.

My “rule of thumb”.  04 did have a Dual In Dual Out as I helped our founder with his electric issues.  OF THAT I KNOW….

Then the triplets had the newer version.  A Single In Single OUT or 2 circuits.  That’ why yours would be easy to modify. A word about my “split lug” choice as folks may be snickering.  I don’t like wire nuts in a MH, and YES, Monaco used them.  I KNOW that the NEC exempted microwaves and res refers when all the Monaco’s that had GFCI’s upstream of the refrigerators and icemakers were wired that way.  SO…. Monaco was not a stickler for code….and maybe never knew the consequences.  Once Monaco started offering res refers as options, not CARTE BLANCHE, as i have only looked at at least 80% of those prints, they STOPPED and used conventional circuits or NON GFCI Protected.

That “long and boring” dissertation was to clarify that most residential and I know, all industrial & commercial contractors…..as I supervised maintenance and also used outside contractors…..told me when I was installing home generator back feeds for friends….and they had an “abandoned dryer line” and it was  #10 aka 30 Amps…..do NOT USE WIRE NUTS.  That, personally, would “GO DOUBLE” here.

I’ve had to make a few….usually works in a standard box.  In your case, I would set a box ahead of the Inverter.  I would have a #10 in (its there), a #10 out to the inverter and a #12 out to a subpanel of whatever you need for a 20 A breaker.  That’s clean.  My MEMORY…two wraps of a kraft or “paper bag” over the split lug, a special 3 M foam tape (called out in NEC and easily checked online) then maybe 2 wraps….number eludes me.  Then you encapsulate with standard electrical tape…but you make sure you keep tension on the tape (most don’t’ and put maybe 3 there.  That meets NEC…of that I know.

Tom, you are correct regarding the differences in model years for the Windsor.  I found the following based on the Wiring Diagrams I have which matches your post.

Windsors in 2000 had Single Input/Single Output (SI/SO) Inverters.  2000+ Dynasties (Not including REV products which I have no information or experience)  had Dual Input/Dual Output (DI/DO) inverters.  Starting in 2001 the Windsors had DI/DO inverters upt ot somewhere around 2005.  Then in 2006, the Windsors went back to SI/SO, the same as Camelots.  The Inverter Subpanel technically was not (is not) contingent on Dual Output Inverters.  I believe it was done as Monaco incorporated upgrades.  You certainly could (and I have redesigned coaches that do) have an Inverter Subpanel with only a Single Output Inverter.  The subpanel GFCI(s) - for only those circuits that required CFCI - are indeed GFCI BREAKERS, not Outlets.  

Regarding your recommendation of Split-Lugs.  NEC allows use for a maximum of TWO wires.  AWG 10 is normally connected with the appropriate sized (red winged) Wire Nut which will accommodate up to three AWG 10 conductors.   I personally recommend and all my designs suggest a smaller (typically 4 Circuit Breaker) sized breaker box.  I have the box at the output of the inverter and remove the "Outlet String" romex from the associated Inverter Output.  I insert a new piece of AWG 10 from that Inverter Output into the input of the newly added breaker box.  I put two 20 Amp breakers in the box (I use a 4-breaker box so I have more room for wiring-personal preference, not requirement) connected to the Romex from the inverter.  I then wire the previously connected "Outlet String" to one of the 20 Amp breakers.  If you carefully choose where you put this new breaker box (some might call a mini Inverter Subpanel) you won't have to splice - the "Outlet String" would reach.  Then I wire the new circuit (in this case, the Bedroom Outlets) to the other 20 Amp breaker.  I leave the Microwave circuit alone.  The inverter doesn't care how many breakers or outlets you add - or how you name them.  It only cares that you not exceed the 30 Amp output circuit breaker rating.  Therefore, using the microwave output to supply the new circuit isn't necessary.  Again, I stress that the OWNER will be responsible for proper Energy Management of the Inverter (same is he is now).  If you add too much at the same time, something is going to trip a breaker.  The only re-routing of wiring in this case is from the new circuit to the 20 Amp breaker in the new subpanel.  You don't have to rewire the microwave circuit.  You may not even have to get into the Main Power Panel (other than to disable the bedroom circuit as it will be abandoned).  All that is necessary is to find the existing bedroom outlet circuit in question, and possibly put a Junction Box to tie that circuit to a new run of romex.  That last sentence is the majority of the effort, and different for every coach model and year.

From my experience, and from the experiences of others I have talked to who have actually re-wired their coach so based on empirical data, not theoretical suppositions, most all the wiring in the coach itself (not to include chassis wiring) is in the roof.  Typically this is within 6 inches of the side (so be careful if you are drilling in this area).  It then runs from the roof (ceiling) either down the wall to where it needs to go, or across the ceiling to where it needs to go.  EXCEPTION: If the outlet or switch or whatever is contained within a slide room, it is wired from the basement, under the slide and up through the floor of the slide, then across the floor (under the cabinets) to where it's needed and then up the wall.  I have never seen or heard of a slide room where the electrical wiring is run from the top or the sides into the slide room. 

So, in the OPs case, are the outlets you wish to connect in a slide or are they in a fixed wall/cabinet in the bedroom.  That will be the clue as to how the wires were originally run.  If through the ceiling, many have opted to intercept them at the main power panel.  They have added new Romex or conduit, their preference, to the Power panel, and connected the wires removed from the breaker to the new romex inside the main power panel.  Then they typically run the conduit down, through the floor and ultimately over to the new Inverter subpanel.  Most of my efforts have been in the design phase, and I have worked with owners who know electrical and mechanical systems, and they perform the actual running and connecting of the wires, based on their coach.  

  -Rick N.

Edited November 6, 2023 by Frank McElroy
removed last paragraph that should have been a PM

[Bill R]

Update to this post -   As stated in the first part of this thread, the 120VAC outlets on the driver's side of the front slideout only work on shore/generator power.  This is a nuisance when spending a day or two boondocking.  After doing a lot of wire chasing and pulling down basement ceiling panels, I was able to trace the slideout supply wire back to where it can easily tie into inverter power.  Hooray!!

In the pic below you can see the 14/2 stranded black sheath wire which goes to the slideout outlets coming from the 120VAC distribution panel.  And right next to it the 14/2 solid yellow sheath wire coming from the inverter (this is NOT the microwave circuit).  

Easy-Peasy, Splice and go, installing JB and using lever connectors.

I have decided not to take the microwave circuit off of the inverter supply for the time being. 

Thank you for everyone's input.  I'll post pics of the final install.

 

[Bill R]

OK, Splice is made and power to slide out outlets from the inverter now all good!  I really liked using the WAGO Lever connectors.  See pic below.  Made it clean and secure when combining solid and stranded copper wires. 

I decided not to, maybe to some folks disagreement, install a JB.  Just no real place for it, very tight,  and I do not think it is necessary.  Wrapped each connector with electrical tape. then wrapped all three connectors together securely with electrical tape into one bundle, and tie wrapped to other bundles.  All very nice and clean.

Now I am pondering if I want to disconnect the wire from the inverter going to the microwave and connect it to the wire coming from the 120V panel 20A breaker that was going to the non inverted outlets of the slide out.  These are all in the same area and easily could be done.  Just not sure if I am ready to lose the function of the microwave on battery power.  Although I never do use it that way.  And changing it would keep it from happening when DW forgets when we are not on shore power.

Have I talked myself into yet?