Torqueing Lug Nuts

[LarryD]

What do you use to check lug nut torque after service work on your rig with Aluminum rims?   Thanks 

[DavidL]

Post 22 shows my setup.

https://rvforums.com/threads/newmar-k2-spartan-air-bag-replacement.16136/page-3#post-104505

Torque multiplier and an electronic torque measurement at the socket for accuracy.

 

[Yoaks5]

NEIKO 20743A 3/4” Digital Torque... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GLITFW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I use an electronic torque gauge and an adjustable (goes from about 2' to 4' long) 3/4" ratchet. Use my cordless milwaukee to remove and reinstall but finish torque is done with the above tools. 

[cbr046]

3 hours ago, DavidL said:

Post 22 shows my setup.

https://rvforums.com/threads/newmar-k2-spartan-air-bag-replacement.16136/page-3#post-104505

Torque multiplier and an electronic torque measurement at the socket for accuracy.

 

The photo wasn't very clear . . . .  How do you keep the torque multiplier from rotating? 

- bob

[DavidL]

6 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

The photo wasn't very clear . . . .  How do you keep the torque multiplier from rotating? 

- bob

The torque multiplier has an arm on it that contacts the ground to keep it from rotating.  For some of the higher lugs, the arm might not be long enough.  So you can put a block on the ground to keep the arm more horizontal.

the Jack stand goes under the head of the multiplier to keep the socket extension in line with the lug nut / socket.

Takes some manipulation to get things rejiggered with each nut but with a second person, it goes pretty fast if you are doing lots of lugs in one sweep.

The torque sensor / tool has a Beep when you get close to your desired torque and a solid tone when you hit it.  So you don't really need to watch the readout.  This is one less thing to jigger when moving to the next lug (to get the rotation right to start torqueing).  The torque sensor is available online and at Harbor Freight.  Mine has 750ft/lb capacity.  3/4" drive.

Edited November 8 by DavidL

[cbr046]

I have the torque sensor, extensions, socket . . . . but stopped when I couldn't find a giant breaker bar for cheap or see a way to make a torque multiplier work.  Most have a small arm designed to rest against the next nut which puts the sensor on the input vs output.  If I remember, the hubcap got in the way also.  

@DavidL What brand / torque multiplier is that?

- bob

[DavidL]

https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-drive-150-750-ft-lb-digital-torque-adapter-58707.html?_br_psugg_q=torque+adapter

 

https://www.amazon.com/Central-Tools-6387-Torque-Multiplier/dp/B000P6UNBU/ref=sr_1_45?keywords=torque+multiplier&qid=1699459744&sr=8-45

 

I found the multiplier in a garage sale or something...kinda expensive to buy new.  If new, you might just get a far simpler 3/4" drive long arm torque wrench instead

https://www.amazon.com/100-600-Torque-Professional-Heavy-duty-135-815N-M/dp/B0BRRTVCVD/ref=sr_1_48?keywords=torque%2Bmultiplier&qid=1699459744&sr=8-48&th=1

 

Edited November 8 by DavidL

[cbr046]

LOL that wrench is 3.5 ft long which would need 142 lbs to get 500 ft lbs.  I only have 10 lbs to spare!

Yes, torque multipliers are expensive single taskers. 

I just had tires installed, not sure how they torqued the nuts.  English wasn't even a second language with the installer. 

- bob

[Ivan K]

I just use a 4 footer breaker bar with a sliding pipe to make it easier. Still a good workout but don't have to take it anywhere. Some shops are using torque sticks on air guns to set the torque. 

[96 EVO]

Ivan, does that torque gauge click, or beep or something when preset torque is reached?

Pretty sure I couldn't read that little screen from 4 or 5 feet away!

[Ivan K]

Ben, it beeps and blinks and is loud enough to hear from accross the shop. Just like described above by DavidL.

[Rene and Linda Vero Fl]

5’ handle pull about 100 lbs you get 500 lbs ft of torque adjust as necessary 😊

[Ray Davis]

1 hour ago, Rene and Linda Vero Fl said:

5’ handle pull about 100 lbs you get 500 lbs ft of torque adjust as necessary 😊

Hmmm,  My handle may be too long.   Kidding,  LMAO

[Ray Davis]

On 11/11/2023 at 9:27 AM, Ray Davis said:

Hmmm,  My handle may be too long.   Kidding,  LMAO

Those lug nuts might not like a thousand pounds of torque.  That's what I was trying to say,   sort of messed up though.

It was too late to edit the above.

Edited November 12 by Ray Davis

[Ivan K]

13 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Those lug nuts might not like a thousand pounds of torque.  That's what I was trying to say,   sort of messed up though.

It was too late to edit the above.

I don't see a problem with your handle as long as you are in control 😅

[Ray Davis]

6 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

I don't see a problem with your handle as long as you are in control 😅

I don't quite know what to say except i always lacked in self control but that was long long ago.  Now I'm not sure what we're controling.  I gotta be careful here but I think it was torqueing the wheels. 😇

[amphi_sc]

Question about slipping a pipe extension over my 600 ft-lb one piece ratcheting torque wrench.  My warranty replacement wheel has arrived from Accuride ( reference topic https://www.monacoers.org/topic/7518-aluminum-wheel-defect/#comments ).  I was going to take the old wheel off and throw it into the back of my SUV to get a tire shop to swap the rubber onto the replacement wheel, but evidently my last tire shop just tightened the lugs using their 1 inch air impact wrench.  With my 4 foot 3/4" torque wrench cranked up to the 600 ft-lb max I can hear it "click'", but the lugs won't begin to budge.  I don't have a separate 3/4" breaker bar so what is the consequences on my torque wrench of exceeding the 600 ft-lb "click" on my torque wrench to loosen these lugs?  I don't want to hurt or uncalibrate my torque wrench in the process.  It was about all I could muster to get it to click at the 600 lb setting so I'd probably have to slip a pipe over the wrench to get even more leverage.  (Hopefully when I do get the wheel off the lugs aren't stretched or damaged by the previous tire shop evidently not using a proper torque setting when the wheel was installed.  Am I incorrect in recalling from memory the torque is supposed to be 450-500 ft-lb?). Or is it time to invest in a new 1000 ft-lb impact wrench to loosen these nuts?  (I don't know what my existing air impact can develop, but it just hammered away and didn't budge the nuts at all either.  I've had good use of that air impact for over 35 years on stubborn bolts/nuts but maybe it's time for a new one?  And yes, it was set to back the nuts off.) I would hope the last tire shop didn't go extremely crazy with their 1" impact.

 

[Tdkkart]

 I guess the first thing I would do would be to pull up in front of a tire shop with your RV and ask them to swap out the wheel while you relax in their lobby.

Or.......

If you're like me and insist on doing things yourself, the purchase of one of these gems will do wonders for your ability to remove those lug nuts: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L89VQ92?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Now realize that the torque multiplier works on a gear ratio(58:1 in this case), it takes 58 turns of the crank to turn the lug nut one turn, so use the multiplier to loosen all the lugs, and then use your favorite zip gun to spin them all the way off.

I would not use a pipe on a torque wrench, but it's your wrench so have fun if you must...........

[amphi_sc]

37 minutes ago, Tdkkart said:

 I guess the first thing I would do would be to pull up in front of a tire shop with your RV and ask them to swap out the wheel while you relax in their lobby.....

I would not use a pipe on a torque wrench, but it's your wrench so have fun if you must...........

The problem with driving the RV to a tire shop is I DO NOT TRUST that old defective wheel to not catastrophically fail enroute.  It might make it but if it splits the rest of the way ... Ka-boom ... and that's not something I want to experience on a steer axle.

After sleeping on the problem overnight I tend to lean away from exceeding the 600 ft-lb design of my torque wrench as it could hurt the ball-cam-ratchet.  It's probably time for a new & bigger impact wrench, and save my torque wrench for the sole purpose of tightening to 450-500 ft-lbs which it is fully capable of.

[Ivan K]

I agree with saving the expensive torque wrench for what it is for. My 3/4" impact takes the nuts off no problem but I had to get a bigger hose and high flow fittings for it to work. The multiplier is probably the cheapest sure way but it is heavy!

[jacwjames]

Any chance that your road side service, if you have one, would pay for a mobile tire guy to come by and change your tire where your rig is parked?

I checked an Lowes has a 40" 3/4 or 1" breaker bar, you could consider buying that and using a longer bar.  Might be able to use a longer bar and a floor jack to break them loose. 

 

 

[amphi_sc]

Update: I got them loose with a 6 foot extension onto a 3/4 breaker bar.  1200 ft-lb impact air wrench could not break them loose.  Re-torqued to 475 when reinstalled and breaker bar can loosen them without the extension.

[jacwjames]

The Greek philosopher Archimedes once said, “Give me a firm place to stand and a lever and I can move the Earth.”  

 

When I was in the mines one of the repairman was working on a mine car but it needed to lifted up.   There was a ~10' piece of mine rail there, weighed about 200 lbs, so I used a block, lifted the piece of rail up over the block and under the end of the rail car and put all my weight on it.  Got the car high enough for the repairman to put some wood blocks under it and he was able to change car wheel bearings.