very low water flow and pressure on Hot water but fine on cold? Atwood LP/Electric 10 gallon

[Bill R]

When I had that same problem in the past it turned out to be either a partially clogged screen on the faucets or the inlet filters.  But it seems you have checked the filters.  So maybe try the screens at the faucets and shower head.  Does it happen also when using the water pump?  Check the screen for the main water inlet if there is one.   Simple things to check before digging deeper.  

Edited May 12 by Bill R

[Tom Cherry]

SCOTTY HUTTON POSTED THE SOLUTION.  Please read the prior posts for content.  ASSUMING your ATWOOD is like his and like this one.  It is the CHECK VALVE.  That needs to be replaced.

THIS also assumes that the problem is NEVER on the COLD at any faucet.

Have at it....

[MIRIAM]

Not sure and I did think about that, but I know the last place we were at was pretty high pressure because I have a Y-splitter from spigot.  I thought about doing what you suggested and just filling up the tank to use the water pumps (never have) and check if that is better.  I've had the coach a year and never used anything except City water...that's worth a shot.  Thanks.

51 minutes ago, Bill R said:

When I had that same problem in the past it turned out to be either a partially clogged screen on the faucets or the inlet filters.  But it seems you have checked the filters.  So maybe try the screens at the faucets and shower head.  Does it happen also when using the water pump?  Check the screen for the main water inlet if there is one.   Simple things to check before digging deeper.  

I read my manual again and I can't find any filters for regular water.  Did I miss something somewhere?  I did take the screens out of shower and faucets to see if they had those water saver type devices and didn't see anything.  It's just so weird when it starts out stronger and gradually goes down to about half'ish - my external pressure regulator is pretty new and reads properly (as far as I know)  is there a tool or trick to check what the water pressure actually is?

[Ivan K]

Simple and cheap to find out

[Happycarz]

Sometimes the water filter is next to the water pump.  Mine is there, lying down on its side. 

[Bill R]

Having high flow at first and then a reduction in flow is usually a result of flow restriction somewhere.  A high static pressure will cause the water to flow fast at first, but then it will reduce as flow continues due to a blockage somewhere.  The only exception would be very poor pressure at the campsite hookup. 
 

It does seem strange that you do not have filters on a 2006 coach.  As @Happycarz mentions they are usually by your water pump.  Maybe someone who has a similar coach can comment.  
 

Does your pressure regulator have a gauge?   It helps to have a pressure regulator with a gauge.  What is the pressure regulator set at?   55 psi is a good setting for me.  Note the pressure at the gauge before and during water running in the coach.   What is the change in psi.  Does the pressure drop significantly?  If it does, like down to 30 psi, then you can stop there and let the Park know you have water pressure problems.   If not then the issue is not water pressure but a restriction in flow somewhere.   
 

I have found that the screen on the pressure regulator can collect debris and restrict flow.  If you are already using a filter on the inlet then you may consider removing the screen on the regulator.  Also check any screens on your filter or at the hose connection in the water bay.  

Maybe even try some scenarios of running water with the pressure regulator removed.  And then with the filter removed.  Does the water bay hose connection have an in-line back flow check valve?  Those can go bad and not open all the way.  
 

Have you checked the screen on your water pump?  Checking the flow using just the water pump also will help narrow down the issue.  

Make sure the 3 way water valve is fully selected to “city”.    Or that any other inline shut off valves are fully open.   
 

Simple things to check.  It would be good to know these as a process of elimination.    

[MIRIAM]

10 hours ago, Ivan K said:

Simple and cheap to find out

Excellent - thank you - ordering now.

[MIRIAM]

7 hours ago, Bill R said:

Having high flow at first and then a reduction in flow is usually a result of flow restriction somewhere.  A high static pressure will cause the water to flow fast at first, but then it will reduce as flow continues due to a blockage somewhere.  The only exception would be very poor pressure at the campsite hookup. 
 

It does seem strange that you do not have filters on a 2006 coach.  As @Happycarz mentions they are usually by your water pump.  Maybe someone who has a similar coach can comment.  
 

Does your pressure regulator have a gauge?   It helps to have a pressure regulator with a gauge.  What is the pressure regulator set at?   55 psi is a good setting for me.  Note the pressure at the gauge before and during water running in the coach.   What is the change in psi.  Does the pressure drop significantly?  If it does, like down to 30 psi, then you can stop there and let the Park know you have water pressure problems.   If not then the issue is not water pressure but a restriction in flow somewhere.   
 

I have found that the screen on the pressure regulator can collect debris and restrict flow.  If you are already using a filter on the inlet then you may consider removing the screen on the regulator.  Also check any screens on your filter or at the hose connection in the water bay.  

Maybe even try some scenarios of running water with the pressure regulator removed.  And then with the filter removed.  Does the water bay hose connection have an in-line back flow check valve?  Those can go bad and not open all the way.  
 

Have you checked the screen on your water pump?  Checking the flow using just the water pump also will help narrow down the issue.  

Make sure the 3 way water valve is fully selected to “city”.    Or that any other inline shut off valves are fully open.   
 

Simple things to check.  It would be good to know these as a process of elimination.    

Yes - I thought the same about restriction.  I have checked my hoses for kinks. (multiple times) I verified my regulator is at 50-55 and ran the water/hose directly from spigot without the regulator and/or external filter.  Then, I read the manual to look for anything internal 'filter' related as well as the entire plumbing section, but found nothing.

I did notice the pressure does drop when we are washing dishes or other (always has) so I will I'm going to take notes for numbers today.  I also think I'm going to remove the pressure regulator when I get the gauge to test actual spigot pressure from Amazon. 

I do have one of those back flow valves on the coach, down in wet bay, where the city line goes.....that is new, having just been installed in Jan/Feb (old one was leaking) I guess it could still be that, so I can check,(Can return if not)

im trying to do one thing at a time in the process of eliminating and I refuse to let it win 🤣 

I just know it's something I'm going to find and kick myself for as a newbie learning.  Although, I do love learning, soooo I love the challenge.  Ha!

appreciate the many suggestions.

10 hours ago, Happycarz said:

Sometimes the water filter is next to the water pump.  Mine is there, lying down on its side. 

I have one (in the mania) only for use with using water pump (so it says) then, there is one bypassed only for the ice machine, (there are shut off valves)  because we don't use it.  I'm going to triple check and take a photo hoping some of you well seasoned campers can set me straight.

[waterskier_1]

Did you see Tom Cherry's post on the check valve being the problem?  I have had many similar problems which were the check valve.  You can do a "quick & dirty" check by simply tripping the TPV (also called the T&P Valve - the Temperature and Pressure Valve) and noting if the water flow from the water heater is normal, or reduced.  Be careful, that will be very hot water shooting out if the heater has been on.

  -Rick N.  

[Happycarz]

Our Monaco’s vary from model to model and year to year. So, each one has to be investigated on its own. Sometimes we get lucky and ours is like a similar model, not just in water check valves.

Case in point: I have two water check valves on the TANK/CITY water fill valve. There are none at the water heater, as some of the pictures here show. You have to look carefully as these check valves are very easy to overlook. You could mistake one as just a nipple or part of a T, as in Scotty’s photo.

Miriam, find your water pump, if you haven’t yet done so. Open a faucet slightly, turn on the pump and follow the sound to locate it. Mine is behind the wet bay panel, back about three feet.  It is accessed by removing a panel from the back wall of the bay that’s next to the wet bay. The water pump and filter are there. It’s nice to know where items are located before an emergency arises. 
 

I realize that this filter is not your issue, as it affects both hot and cold water. It sounds like you are methodical in your approach and will find the issue.  I hope it is soon.  

 

[MIRIAM]

10 hours ago, Happycarz said:

Our Monaco’s vary from model to model and year to year. So, each one has to be investigated on its own. Sometimes we get lucky and ours is like a similar model, not just in water check valves.

Case in point: I have two water check valves on the TANK/CITY water fill valve. There are none at the water heater, as some of the pictures here show. You have to look carefully as these check valves are very easy to overlook. You could mistake one as just a nipple or part of a T, as in Scotty’s photo.

Miriam, find your water pump, if you haven’t yet done so. Open a faucet slightly, turn on the pump and follow the sound to locate it. Mine is behind the wet bay panel, back about three feet.  It is accessed by removing a panel from the back wall of the bay that’s next to the wet bay. The water pump and filter are there. It’s nice to know where items are located before an emergency arises. 
 

I realize that this filter is not your issue, as it affects both hot and cold water. It sounds like you are methodical in your approach and will find the issue.  I hope it is soon.  

 

Hey - thanks for helping.  I do know where mine (sounds same as yours) is located and it's well identified, but I'm confused how/why it could be when my owners manual states the filter is only for the water pump and water pump is only used when using fresh water tank, which we never do with always being on City water.  I guess it's worth a shot, but the manual reference this only being for water pump which isn't being used, so I'd have to turn the water pump on, which directs water through the filter into pump and up through that way.  Am I wrong in thinking that?  I can fill up the fresh water tank to try, but im waiting to receive the water pressure gauge mentioned by another and  will test all.....the weather just hasn't been cooperating lately.

[Happycarz]

I was just pointing out where the water pump is, in case its use was needed. A good thing to know if the occasion to use it arises. Or, if it starts leaking you would already know where it is. Same goes for the filter.

Since yours is only on the hot side, I would suspect a check valve. Maybe yours is where Scotty’s is.

 

[MIRIAM]

1 hour ago, Happycarz said:

I was just pointing out where the water pump is, in case its use was needed. A good thing to know if the occasion to use it arises. Or, if it starts leaking you would already know where it is. Same goes for the filter.

Since yours is only on the hot side, I would suspect a check valve. Maybe yours is where Scotty’s is.

 

Got it - thanks - I thought I missed something. (Not surprising)  my issue isn't with only hot, but another poster did have a similar issue with only hot and I found the similar issue thread to jump in here (as recommended) -- it might have confused a bit.  My issue was with pressure seeming to reduce (not all the way, but enough to notice) from when I turn it on to when it's steady stream.  Because I'm a newbie, it could be normal and I don't know, but I'm learning when to notice something in trying to be proactive before I have a 'problem'.  I've got a lot of great advice and things to try and tinker a bit. (Love learning) so I'm going to see if it's 'just me' and this pressure is all there is or....?  All the wisdom shared is absorbed; no deaf ears here!

[Scotty Hutto]

I’ll jump back in with my experience.  In our coach we almost always use the water tank / pump option, and just fill the tank up with city water.  Pressure is always higher for the first few seconds after opening a faucet (any of them, but especially the shower!). As a mechanical engineer, I can tell you this is a normal phenomenon.  You notice it more in the coach than at home because the PEX piping is slightly less rigid than copper or PVC piping, and the amount of unsupported piping in the coach allows it more “expansion” under pressure when the faucets are all closed. Once a faucet is opened, the pressure causing the “expansion” is relieved giving you that burst of higher pressure water.

The other thing that can contribute to this is if there is a restriction somewhere in your piping (think a crimped pipe or clogged pipe).  With faucets closed, pressure build up to the city water pressure (say 45 psi), once the faucet is opened this pressure is relieved, and due to the restriction flow (and pressure) are reduced until the facet is closed.  The *worst* culprits for this are the cheap water “barrel type” pressure reducers.  They reduce pressure by restricting flow through an orifice.  They aren’t the only cause, just the most common.  It could be something as simple as a hose washer with a clogged screen, or pipe that’s crimped or crushed.

Hope that helps.

[Tom Cherry]

14 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

I’ll jump back in with my experience.  In our coach we almost always use the water tank / pump option, and just fill the tank up with city water.  Pressure is always higher for the first few seconds after opening a faucet (any of them, but especially the shower!). As a mechanical engineer, I can tell you this is a normal phenomenon.  You notice it more in the coach than at home because the PEX piping is slightly less rigid than copper or PVC piping, and the amount of unsupported piping in the coach allows it more “expansion” under pressure when the faucets are all closed. Once a faucet is opened, the pressure causing the “expansion” is relieved giving you that burst of higher pressure water.

The other thing that can contribute to this is if there is a restriction somewhere in your piping (think a crimped pipe or clogged pipe).  With faucets closed, pressure build up to the city water pressure (say 45 psi), once the faucet is opened this pressure is relieved, and due to the restriction flow (and pressure) are reduced until the facet is closed.  The *worst* culprits for this are the cheap water “barrel type” pressure reducers.  They reduce pressure by restricting flow through an orifice.  They aren’t the only cause, just the most common.  It could be something as simple as a hose washer with a clogged screen, or pipe that’s crimped or crushed.

Hope that helps.

OK…following up on Scotty.

First…get rid on any of the cheap and ineffective “barrel” “pressure regulators.  They restrict flow as well as pressure.  My daughter and wife complained about CG pressure. You have an upper end MH.  IF you find a CG, particularly out West with high (125 PSI), you can do unbelievable damage to you water system.  Purchase a Valterra RV pressure regulator on Amazon or find one at an RV store. Purchase a pack of washing machine filter screens.  Purchase TWO “male” Garden Hose plugs.

Put the plug on a zip tie so you can screw it into the water hose.  Likewise for the backwash fitting.  Bugs will get in and stop up or restrict flow. Happens all the time.

Now, never hookup to a campground faucet without purging…only takes less than a quart of water to flush out bugs or trash.  Then attach the Valterra. It is preset….use as is.  Hook up your hose, using the water filter screen washer.

NOW…RETEST or see if the ”phenomenon” occurs. Lots of times, you will get a small pressure surge and then the CG water flow stabilzes.  Poor pressure isva norm when full.  Higher pressure when the CG is only lightly populated.

THAT is why some folks supplement and use their fresh pump all the time.  If the CG is on a private well or private system….it’s gonna be worse.  CG on municipal systerms tend to have higher and more stable flow/pressure….but again, the demand as in crowded or close to empty will make your system seem “flaky”

READ your manual. You MAY have the nicer “Mono Block” manifold system.  All valves should be fully opened.  If you have that, read or google and learn how it works…

NOW A BOGO. Purchase a 3 or 4 foot 5/8” or larger garden hose extension….AMAZON,  Putchase a 1/4 shutoff valve with Garden Hose ends.  Don’t bother with the itty bitty…Amazon has them that say “full flow”.  Use pipe dope or a small strip of Teflon tape (google how to use it properly).  Attach one end to the Black Tank back flush fitting…put in a screen washer.  Then put the valve on the other end.  Purge the back flush hose. Hook it up.  Leave the hand valve closed.  Turn on the faucet that has the back flush hose hooked up.  carry a full flow Y fitting with shutoff valves.  Now you can control the timing and amount of back flush at the point of use.  Use a zip tie and dangle one of the male plugs.  Always cap the valve after use.  No debris…

 

Edited May 17 by Tom Cherry
corrected "backflow" typo to back flush

[MIRIAM]

2 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

I’ll jump back in with my experience.  In our coach we almost always use the water tank / pump option, and just fill the tank up with city water.  Pressure is always higher for the first few seconds after opening a faucet (any of them, but especially the shower!). As a mechanical engineer, I can tell you this is a normal phenomenon.  You notice it more in the coach than at home because the PEX piping is slightly less rigid than copper or PVC piping, and the amount of unsupported piping in the coach allows it more “expansion” under pressure when the faucets are all closed. Once a faucet is opened, the pressure causing the “expansion” is relieved giving you that burst of higher pressure water.

The other thing that can contribute to this is if there is a restriction somewhere in your piping (think a crimped pipe or clogged pipe).  With faucets closed, pressure build up to the city water pressure (say 45 psi), once the faucet is opened this pressure is relieved, and due to the restriction flow (and pressure) are reduced until the facet is closed.  The *worst* culprits for this are the cheap water “barrel type” pressure reducers.  They reduce pressure by restricting flow through an orifice.  They aren’t the only cause, just the most common.  It could be something as simple as a hose washer with a clogged screen, or pipe that’s crimped or crushed.

Hope that helps.

Yes!!  The verification it's normal to start out stronger and go down a bit is what I was looking for because I must have never noticed it and I think there may have been something at the last park, but I tweaked and tinkered things (even bought a new shower hose) to get back to way better.  I plan on trying that fresh water tank with using pumps because we never have and if not for anything but sheer curiosity.  I love this group of so many experiences shared and helps me learn more than I ever could otherwise.  I want to find another Monaco camper and just say "hey, can I see how your water pressure is"  🤣🤣  if you didn't think I was crazy before, you would then!

[MIRIAM]

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK…following up on Scotty.

First…get rid on any of the cheap and ineffective “barrel” “pressure regulators.  They restrict flow as well as pressure.  My daughter and wife complained about CG pressure. You have an upper end MH.  IF you find a CG, particularly out West with high (125 PSI), you can do unbelievable damage to you water system.  Purchase a Valterra RV pressure regulator on Amazon or find one at an RV store. Purchase a pack of washing machine filter screens.  Purchase TWO “male” Garden Hose plugs.

Put the plug on a zip tie so you can screw it into the water hose.  Likewise for the backwash fitting.  Bugs will get in and stop up or restrict flow. Happens all the time.

Now, never hookup to a campground faucet without purging…only takes less than a quart of water to flush out bugs or trash.  Then attach the Valterra. It is preset….use as is.  Hook up your hose, using the water filter screen washer.

NOW…RETEST or see if the ”phenomenon” occurs. Lots of times, you will get a small pressure surge and then the CG water flow stabilzes.  Poor pressure isva norm when full.  Higher pressure when the CG is only lightly populated.

THAT is why some folks supplement and use their fresh pump all the time.  If the CG is on a private well or private system….it’s gonna be worse.  CG on municipal systerms tend to have higher and more stable flow/pressure….but again, the demand as in crowded or close to empty will make your system seem “flaky”

READ your manual. You MAY have the nicer “Mono Block” manifold system.  All valves should be fully opened.  If you have that, read or google and learn how it works…

NOW A BOGO. Purchase a 3 or 4 foot 5/8” or larger garden hose extension….AMAZON,  Putchase a 1/4 shutoff valve with Garden Hose ends.  Don’t bother with the itty bitty…Amazon has them that say “full flow”.  Use pipe dope or a small strip of Teflon tape (google how to use it properly).  Attach one end to the back flush fitting…put in a screen washer.  Then put the valve on the other end.  Purge the backflow hose.  Hook it up.  Leave the hand valve closed.  Turn on the backflow fauucet. I carry a full flow Y fitting with shutoff valves.  Now you can control the timing and amount of backflow at the point of use.  Use a zip tie and dangle one of the male plugs.  Always cap the valve after use.  No debris…

 

I'm about to make myself look more green than I already have, but no going back now....what's "barrel" regulator?  I googled and didn't look like anything I have, but I did but a regular pressure regulator from Amazon (Renator brand - had high reviews) and haven't had a problem with that.  I even 'tested' it by playing with the dial and opening the line to see how it changed the flow, just so I could be familiar.  The rest of what you said seems pretty easy to try and I do have that manifold block, so something else I can check.  I remember 'playing' with at one time (can't remember why) but I set everything back to the way it was, so I can just triple check that, too.  I feel I do a little here and a little there and it gets better.  I changed my setup from spigot to my Y splitter and one side is my short hose to my pressure regulator, which is connected directly to inlet of my U25 filter - then, out the other side of the filter to my potable water hose and into coach.  (I had it different before) and this seems to be better, but I think I might change the connection because it has one with quick connect and I think it could be restricting flow, but right off the spigot and before the pressure regulator, which reads correctly, so that's why I never thought about that.

I'll try it all and if for nothing but experience.  I love doing stuff just to be familiar and learning something new...never know when you'll need to tap into the memory bank and I'm an hands-on visual learner, so trial and error are my go to in most cases..... I'm just a lover of learning.  Thanks for the help! ✌️

[Ivan K]

This is what our looked like before I dumped it, right on the hose hookup, partially behind the cover. These are trash and internally break down in time.

[MIRIAM]

14 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

This is what our looked like before I dumped it, right on the hose hookup, partially behind the cover. These are trash and internally break down in time.

Thanks!  Don't have one of those attached anywhere, but mental note made ....

[Tom Cherry]

10 hours ago, MIRIAM said:

I'm about to make myself look more green than I already have, but no going back now....what's "barrel" regulator?  I googled and didn't look like anything I have, but I did but a regular pressure regulator from Amazon (Renator brand - had high reviews) and haven't had a problem with that.  I even 'tested' it by playing with the dial and opening the line to see how it changed the flow, just so I could be familiar.  The rest of what you said seems pretty easy to try and I do have that manifold block, so something else I can check.  I remember 'playing' with at one time (can't remember why) but I set everything back to the way it was, so I can just triple check that, too.  I feel I do a little here and a little there and it gets better.  I changed my setup from spigot to my Y splitter and one side is my short hose to my pressure regulator, which is connected directly to inlet of my U25 filter - then, out the other side of the filter to my potable water hose and into coach.  (I had it different before) and this seems to be better, but I think I might change the connection because it has one with quick connect and I think it could be restricting flow, but right off the spigot and before the pressure regulator, which reads correctly, so that's why I never thought about that.

I'll try it all and if for nothing but experience.  I love doing stuff just to be familiar and learning something new...never know when you'll need to tap into the memory bank and I'm an hands-on visual learner, so trial and error are my go to in most cases..... I'm just a lover of learning.  Thanks for the help! ✌️

Back to BASICS

Google Camco Inline Garden Hose RV Regulator.  or put that into Amazon.  This is what many folks use. These have a small orifice and check valve and will not deliver a full 5 GPM flow.  Don't know about your regulator....lots of folks buy it.  The only way to test.  Use garden hose and and your your regulator. Get a bucket...say 5 Gallon.  Hook up hose to a home faucet without the regulator. Time the filling of the 5 gallon bucket. Now repeat with the regulator on the faucet.  You can adjust the regulator until the pressure STOPS going up...back off a smidge. That will be the line pressure of the faucet. if the regulator times out within 5%, then no restriction in the regulator....MORE...there is one of your issues. The Valterra is exactly the same.

OK...now I am confused about your "SETUP".  The MH did or should have had a filter in the system. It was just a Household filter....similar to the U25 (Assume Omicrom). I don't understand. Here's how MOST Monacos...or one would say ALL.  The potable water (reel hose) goes in and then there is the City/Fill valve and a maze of plumbing.  The plumbing schematic varies.  When on full city, the interior (or it may be in an outside bay...but it is a Household filter) filter is inline.  Thus, you get filtration. When you fill the Tank, some will filter the incoming water.  Some will NOT and then when the water pump sucks out the water, it is filtered. 

OK....here is how most of us hook up.  I use a Y-Adapter with 1/4 Turn shutoff valves.  That goes to the faucet. The Valterra (and it looks like yours) is on one of the outlets. I then hook up the fresh water (the "HOSE" on the reel) to the Valterra.  That regulates the incoming water. I hook up my "BackFlush) hose to it.  In a previous post, I may have called it backflow...or the iPad changed it...will fix it.  That hose stays OFF.  When I dump and need to back flow, I open that hose.  SOME will also close the Line to the Regulator to prevent backflow.  I don't see the need and just leave it open.

Next up is the selection of a Filter Element. Over the years, friends and members have experimented.  Some decided to put in a cartridge (same as your Omicron) that you could almost use in an FDA certified food processing facility.  OMG>>>DISASTEROUS.  The HIGHER the level of filtration or the smaller the particle blocked, the greater the pressure drop...and then, in a few days...they had almost NO FLOW.  Varies with the water and such...but bottom line.  The OEM Monaco filter was designed to be used with the LOWEST Rated filter....to give you adequate flow and pressure.  There are TWO rules of THUMB.  If you have municipal city water, then your "taste buds" are modified so that you don't notice the slight chlorine residual that the Municipal systems have.  BUT, bring in a guest that is on a home system and it, to some, is like drinking swimming pool water.  They do NOT like the taste of chlorinated water.  We fall into that category.  So, I use the cheapest Charcoal filter to take out the taste of chlorine and usually leave that in.  BUT, if we were going to be camping exclusively at well (non chlorinated water) CG, I would use the standard low end FOAM filter.  That is what I use at home...  BTW, I have a system and well that a friend, who is a professional geologist, designed and the water is great and I only use TWO filters.  The first one is a back flushable one (you can drain off any sediment or removed and clean the mesh filter element).  That is a PREFILTER and then a Foam in the 5 GPM full house.  REMEMBER, the Filter that Monaco put in was in the 5 GPM and the pump is in that same range.

NOW...many folks like double filtration and will use an RV "Icemaker" style filter as a PRE Filter on their systems.  They usually have it before the Regulator....doesn't matter.

That's the way the MH was designed to work. If you add additional filtration, then you run the risk....and it is a FACT....there will always be a Pressure Drop (which resulted in a decreased GPM or the flow will be throttled down).  The MH was designed for only ONE filter...and if a second, typically on the faucet, then you will have reduced pressure and flow....and that can be an issue in many CG...

Hope this helps.

If you can draw up the flow diagram, that would be helpful or shoot picture. Maybe I am the only one confused....

BTW...typically, the rule of thumb for this site.  When there are issues with ANYTHING...the first question usually asked....Is the system (Air, Water, Hydraulic, Electric, Fuel or whatever) OEM as in the way it left the factory or has there been modifications made.  Then, if Mods were made....sometimes the recommendation is to "RESTORE TO OEM" and see if that rectifies the problem.

That is why a schematic or pictures are needed, at least for me, to understand how you have your "WATER SYSTEM" plumbed or hooked up.

Thanks....

 

 

On 5/12/2024 at 8:04 AM, MIRIAM said:

Excellent - thank you - ordering now.

Assume you know that you can purchase an Aerator Adapter that converts an interior faucet to garden thread.  That is how the pro plumbers test lines inside...

[waterskier_1]

On 5/16/2024 at 3:22 PM, Scotty Hutto said:

I’ll jump back in with my experience.  In our coach we almost always use the water tank / pump option, and just fill the tank up with city water.  Pressure is always higher for the first few seconds after opening a faucet (any of them, but especially the shower!). As a mechanical engineer, I can tell you this is a normal phenomenon.  You notice it more in the coach than at home because the PEX piping is slightly less rigid than copper or PVC piping, and the amount of unsupported piping in the coach allows it more “expansion” under pressure when the faucets are all closed. Once a faucet is opened, the pressure causing the “expansion” is relieved giving you that burst of higher pressure water.

The other thing that can contribute to this is if there is a restriction somewhere in your piping (think a crimped pipe or clogged pipe).  With faucets closed, pressure build up to the city water pressure (say 45 psi), once the faucet is opened this pressure is relieved, and due to the restriction flow (and pressure) are reduced until the facet is closed.  The *worst* culprits for this are the cheap water “barrel type” pressure reducers.  They reduce pressure by restricting flow through an orifice.  They aren’t the only cause, just the most common.  It could be something as simple as a hose washer with a clogged screen, or pipe that’s crimped or crushed.

Hope that helps.

I would think gits plausible for plumbing in coaches without an expansion tank.  I would think the expansion tank would significantly reduce that effect though. 

  - Rick N