2006 Neptune / Cayman Transfer Switch

[Agpopp]

Hi guys, and Happy New Year! Been laying low with the coach laid up for winter. I have taken it on 2 60 mile loops since winterizing back in October to keep her loose.  Today I went to plug the shore back in and decided to look at the transfer switch for no good reason, and it's burnt!

Only one terminal set, but it obviously needs replacing. I've looked at it and pictures from the web to determine it's make, wondering if was an IOTA, but I don't see any ID, and the cover is blank.  I havent come across any with the plastic terminal protectors so maybe just a cheapie from Indiana.

At any rate, I guess I'm spending.  

I've read here and it seems the latest was to use the Southwire 40100? It seems available and affordable.  Anyone with recent thoughts,  go ahead. 

 

[Dr4Film]

ESCO Lyght LPTBRD Transfer Switch is the one most recommend for the lower end coaches.

Edited January 3 by Dr4Film

[Agpopp]

38 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

ESCO Lyght LPTBRD Transfer Switch is the one most recommend for the lower end coaches.

That was fast! Appreciate your info. I did not see that one discussed,  but it looks like a better fit with the placement of my conduits. I searched the site here and there was a post mentioning the Lyght Brand is the same as the ESCO and it seems like a well built component.  

[DavidL]

Make sure you clean up all those wires nicely.  The issue was the screws got loose, and heat was the result.

If there are aluminum against steel, use some antioxident on the connections.

Barrier strips are dirt cheap.  Just get a good one.

Personally I don't like the "nylon" type...to flexible...I like Phenolic better (firm, doesn't move, doesn't get loose, doesn't melt).

[Agpopp]

6 minutes ago, DavidL said:

Make sure you clean up all those wires nicely.  The issue was the screws got loose, and heat was the result.

If there are aluminum against steel, use some antioxident on the connections.

Barrier strips are dirt cheap.  Just get a good one.

Personally I don't like the "nylon" type...to flexible...I like Phenolic better (firm, doesn't move, doesn't get loose, doesn't melt).

I know the switch works, I don't know if its possible to just replace the strips. I have some Noalox if I need it here. 

One of these is the Esco and is 400 plus and one is the Lyght....don't really see any spec difference mentioned.  

[Scotty Hutto]

That is not an IOTA ITS-50R. Here’s what an Iota looks like inside:

 

Here is an ESCO LPT50BRD install on the same coach (the bottom unit is a Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C surge protector):

Some may disagree, but my opinion is that the Southwire 40100 is a better ATS than the Lyght (ESCO). (And for the record, I have the ESCO LPT50BRD in my coach - but I plan to change it out.)

The reason behind my opinion is the way that the Southwire unit does “break before make” on the neutral. This prevents the possibility of feedback through the neutral when switching between shore power and genny while still plugged into shore power (another topic for debate). The LPT50BRD does not “break before make” and could, potentially allow feedback through the neutral.  

Now, this can absolutely be prevented (with ANY ATS) by simply unplugging shore power before starting the genny (or conversely, never plugging into shore power with the genny running) - both of which rules i follow with my current setup. 

The Southwire unit will require more work to install, and many Monacoers haves used the ESCO/Lyght LPT50BRD for many years with no problems at all.

BUT, from the standpoint of an engineer that worked in the electric utility industry for 43+ years, my opinion is that the Southwire is a better design. 

[lake49068]

Have a 2010 Neptune that was delivered with an IOTA that Navistar replaced at the Chapter 419 Maintenance Session not long after delivery.  Think it was a SurgeGard which failed after just a few years.  Replaced it with a Progressive Dynamics (not to be confused with Progressive Industries!), no problems and no hum.  Wire entry was fairly easy and very competitive pricing. 

Edited January 3 by lake49068
Typing error

[cbr046]

I installed the Southwire 40100 over a year ago.  All working good (so far).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F4620OO/

The photo shows TRC but unit arrived was the Southwire.  TRC was bought out by Southwire.  Must be an old photo . . . .

Some reviewers say it's noisy.  Mine is whisper quiet (no hum).

- bob

[stuff4sale09]

Any recommendations on Southwire vs Esco / lyght or any other reliable brands to replace IOTA ITS50R, just found a burnt wire on my IOTA. Been meaning to replace it long ago but life happens and things get put on hold, also I forgot, Until this post and went out to check my transfer switch and noticed a burnt wire. Yes I have dodged a mishap, time to play the lottery.

thank you for any and all insight on new transfer switch recommendations 

[Dr4Film]

Robert, Scotty posted a few posts back that he prefers the Southwire 40100 over the ESCO LPTBRD Transfer Switch due to a possible mechanical mishap with the neutral switching correctly when going from shore to generator and back to shore power.

My previous Windsor has the ESCO Lyght LPTBRD and it will be 23 years old this fall. It is still going strong. However, I was always careful when transferring power sources.

My Dynasty has the Southwire transfer switch model 40260 which was installed just prior to my purchase of the coach.

[Tom Cherry]

5 hours ago, stuff4sale09 said:

Any recommendations on Southwire vs Esco / lyght or any other reliable brands to replace IOTA ITS50R, just found a burnt wire on my IOTA. Been meaning to replace it long ago but life happens and things get put on hold, also I forgot, Until this post and went out to check my transfer switch and noticed a burnt wire. Yes I have dodged a mishap, time to play the lottery.

thank you for any and all insight on new transfer switch recommendations 

As the old saying goes….”BE CAREFUL WHAT YOU ASK FOR”.  If you use the Search Function….then there is a WEALTH of info….here is how it work and a link.

Use IOTA (caps not required) in search.  Click on EVERYWHERE….choose Topics…..then search…

https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=Iota&quick=1&type=forums_topic

How about 12 pages of posts….???

NEXT….repeat the SEARCH…..this time, you do it…. But in EVERYWHERE….use FILES.  There are, I believe some files related to it….I didn’t go that far, but memory says yes.

The two reasons, and I am biased, perhaps as Richard is, that I have the ESCO LPT50BRD and the Progressive Industries industries HW50C is…

Both are 100% Field Serviceable.  Both have instant tech support and boards or contractors can be shipped immediately. That’s my take. Probably biased as I knew the founder of Progressive who was the customer support field guy for SurgeGuard/TRC and they refused to consider his experience from dealing daily and at shows and rallies with the pitfalls of the old “Plug in” Surgeguard and it would fail with NO indicator or any “beeps or lights”.  He started Progressive and took a major market share and was great.  It has been sold, but the “innards” are still the same.

When we, the staff, on the original Monaco Yahoo site, tried to get ANY information on how a SurgeGuard worked…we were told to “ship it back”.  In addition, there was little technical data and there was no “blinking lights” to tell you that the MOV’s (the sacrificial Surge component) was dead.  Progressive has all of that.

NOW….things have probably changed….but being able to diagnose and fix and get good info….that was my plus…

Read up and make your own call.  To date, I think we have only had, in going on 14 years, an ESCO “reported” failure….

Scotty is also a “trusted” source….

That’s it….

 

[Agpopp]

I certainly did search,  but there was really no info for the Neptune crew, I assumed it's had been done by someone.

You guys are great, and I appreciate the info. It's wild to think all of us take time to help each other.  The forums are an amazing place on the internetand this is a great one.  

I'm going to get the Lyght,  and as much as I don't want to, Amazon is the easiest and cheapest store.  

Thanks again! 

[Tom Cherry]

14 hours ago, Agpopp said:

I certainly did search,  but there was really no info for the Neptune crew, I assumed it's had been done by someone.

You guys are great, and I appreciate the info. It's wild to think all of us take time to help each other.  The forums are an amazing place on the internetand this is a great one.  

I'm going to get the Lyght,  and as much as I don't want to, Amazon is the easiest and cheapest store.  

Thanks again! 

FWIW, you have, as most of us do, an ORPHANED MH. When Monaco went bankrupt in 2009 and then Navistar later purchased them, all the MH's made by Monaco no LONGER had any "identity".  What that means is this, if there is a RECALL that the MANUFACTURER makes, then since Monaco ain't a MANUFACTURER, then there is no one to make the recall or pay for it.

With the IOTA... IOTA refused to recall them.  THEY WORK FINE...it is an OWNER's responsibility to always tighten and maintain the terminals...and YES, it is like anything else, some are gonna break and if they are out of warranty....YOU FIX. 

Now, there was such a MASSIVE failure that got many (hundreds?) of NHTSA Complaints, the EACH Motor Home Manufacturer (will an entity) issued the Recall.  Thus, since Navistar was STILL installing the IOTA 50-R, they recalled them. BUT, that only impacted Model Years (MY) 2010....so, if you owned a 2010 Neptune....it was BUILT by Navistar...and it would have been covered...

Yours is a 2006.  BINGO....no one was left to recall it...and you, like the majority of our members that had the IOTA ATS were left as "ORPHANS".  Now, there was NO SPECIAL IOTA 50R that was only used on a Neptune. The IOTA 50 R was used on about all the lower end MH's....  The Dynasty or Imperial or Patriot Thunder.... and ABOVE all had TRC Surge Guard Combo Switches....which were surge suppressors and an ATS...

Bottom line, the "Neptune" crew was not a unique group....  Yes, you might search, but the IOTA was a standard component....so it was the IOTA 50R or most commonly called the IOTA that needs replacing.

Your call on which ATS to use. You ONLY had a plain Jane ATS....and NOT (unless someone installed a hard wired Surge Suppressor) ANY TYPE OF FACTORY Surge protection.

SO all the info provided was generic to the IOTA (50R) and folks made their decisions on the replacement.  

NOW....there is ONE comment...and it VARIES from MH to MH and from even one specific model to another model within the same brand....so if there were different lengths or models of the Neptune, then you MAY (will?) find different wiring or even assembly.

BOTTOM LINE...  The terminals on the IOTA as far as looking or working, say LEFT to RIGHT, are in ONE order.  The Lyght has a different order.  

SO....label the cables.  There are THREE...  LINE (or SHORE)  Generator (Genny) and MAIN or LOAD....  USE Masking tape.  You can identify them from the diagram inside the IOTA.  You need to put on masking tape that says... SHORE, GENERATOR and then MAIN (as in going to the MAIN Breaker. I can't find a picture of the interior...but they are PLAINLY LABELED.  

SOME FOLKS have made the mistake of taking loose the cables, one at a time, and putting them on the Lyght in the same order.  OPPS...NOT GONNA WORK. 

Once you have the cables labeled....BEFORE you remove them, then you MAY have to push or pull on the flex conduit or untwist it ....to get enough slack in the cables to put the Lyght in the right order. 

The OTHER issue....use Loctite GREEN (Napa or Autozone or such). Put that on the screws.  Use a GOOD hand filling slotted screwdriver. Put a shop towel (the old red rag a REAL mechanic had hanging out of his back pocket). Wrap the handle with two wraps. Then use your DOMINANT (usually RIGHT) hand and take a good grip on the handle.  Then use your OTHER hand and push DOWN on the end of the handle so that the screwdriver bit is seated and you are pushing the bit or tip into the slot. Tighten it for all you got. An average male can usually get 35 - 40 Inch Pounds of Torque...which is close to the NEC recommendation. Go over the screws once...then randomly and finally in reverse order.  You should be good to go....