Bob Keating Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 My 2009 Cayman has front drum brakes. I would like a little more stopping power and was wondering if there anyone has done a disc brake conversion on a Monaco Coach. If so, did that increase the braking power? I searched all forums and did not find any information. Thanks, all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 You might try calling Josam Frame and Alignment in Orlando. Mike Z here on the forum (Zmotorsprts) might be able to give some info. I too would like to have more stopping ability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epiner1217 Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 Following this topic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vito.a Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 I had a friend with an early Monaco Windsor. He purchased a used entire front axle with disc brakes and swapped it. He also had to change front wheels to clear the calipers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdw12345 Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 I agree with vito.a, I would consider finding a complete front axle at a salvage yard and do the swap, I would thing to piece the parts together would be a big challenge, you’d have to have different mounting for the brake canisters etc, that would be a chore! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 I also agree, piecing possibly obsolete parts wouldn't be easy or cheap. I would also look for an axle from same manufacturer as the other axle so the maintenance parts are the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 Makes a whole lotta sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 I live in a wet climate and wish I didn't have disc brakes on my steer axle! Went a few years during the pandemic with little use. Now my rotors are badly rusted, and I'll need to either 'turn', or replace! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Keating Posted April 10 Author Share Posted April 10 I would like to thank everyone for their input. I was hoping that there might be a kit or a simple collection of parts that I could put together. However, the job appears to be more than what I want to tackle. Thank again to everyone! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 Thanks Robert for letting everyone know your decision, not everyone does that. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 1 hour ago, Bob Keating said: I would like to thank everyone for their input. I was hoping that there might be a kit or a simple collection of parts that I could put together. However, the job appears to be more than what I want to tackle. Thank again to everyone! You have an exhaust brake? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Keating Posted April 10 Author Share Posted April 10 sort of, I think it is more of an engine brake the uses the turbo. I switched to the Source fan, which reduced the engine braking a bit. Overall, the new fan has been a plus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 Yeah, likely a VGT exhaust brake like myself. I'm a fair bit heavier than yourself ( over 40,000 lbs with toad) and just finished a long trip with a few long 8% downgrades. With the exhaust brake you really need to crest the hill slowly. Let the brake drop the trans to 3rd. When your RPM's reach 2500 (assuming you have an ISC or ISL), then stab the brakes to get the RPM's down to 2000. I've been descending hill's too fast in the past, and unimpressed with the VGT brake. Learned on this trip you just have to descend mountains slower, with your 4-ways on, and it does the job. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank McElroy Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 Keep in mind that most of the braking on these coaches is not like cars. Your primary braking is on your drive axle. That's where your weight and braking is located. What's important is to be sure your manual and automatic slack adjusters are properly serviced and you descend downhill in the correct gear and correct engine brake configuration. Changing steer axle from drum to disk would not be on my to-do list for your coach. Learning how to drive down hill or buying a coach with a Jake brake and disk drive axle brakes would be. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Keating Posted April 10 Author Share Posted April 10 Thanks Frank & 96 Evo. We have had this coach for about three years now, but have used it very little until the last two weeks. We spent this time traveling in the Arkansas Ozarks, which is my first experience with steep and continuous grades. I think I am still a bit in "car mode" with what I expect from the coach in regard to the ability to climb and descend steep grades. While pulling a Ford Fusion, there were some grades that I could only manage 35 MPH. On the descent, however, the engine brake would sometimes have the rpm's up in the 3,000 range, which was uncomfortable. Using the service brakes, I could bring my speed down, but I intend to travel the western part of the country where I assume the grades are steeper and longer. My worry with the drum brakes is fading. I did not experience this with the last, so I may be worrying about nothing. I think my best bet is to get more time in the seat and learn to stay ahead of the coach in steep terrain. Thanks to all who have offered input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 How many miles on the coach?? Have you inspected the brakes? My coach is pretty heavy and I have to be careful when descending steep grades. Live 96 Evo I make sure to start out slow as I start the descent and don't let it gain speed. I stab the brakes with sort bursts of hard pressure to slow down, this does the job and doesn't get the brakes hot. Last year I put it to the test, drove from E TN through Colorado down into UT and then on the way back took a route in southern Colorado into NM. Saw some really steep grades. I don't let the people behind me bother me to go faster. I know I pissed a lot of people off, when I got to a passing lane a small truck came flying past me, zipped in front quickly and flipped me the BIRD, I just smiled and gave him the solute back😁. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 Yes, probably best to learn to drive it like a truck that the axles and brakes came from instead of a car that it will never be. Using the right gear, and knowing how and why you brake is key. The engine has more braking at higher RPM, and most engines are allowed to spin faster in braking than they will run on their own. The transmission is programmed to handle this automatically, including shifting to a higher gear if the engine speed exceeds the limit. That is when you use the brakes, to keep the engine in the desired gear. Or to slow down enough to get into a lower gear if you've made a mistake and are too high. The reason you slow down firmly then release is because of the drum brakes and cooling. So much of the surface of the brakes is covered by the brake shoes when they are applied, it cuts down on the air contact that cools the drum and shoes. If you apply the brakes firmly only long enough to bring the speed down a few hundred RPM to stay under the engine redline, then release the brakes then that airflow can continue to cool the brakes as long as they are not applied. That's not quite as important with disc brakes, but not enough reason to switch, as disc brakes can't take the heat of a long downhill all that much more than drums, they just fail different. Another thing to do to be nice to your brakes, apply and hold them lightly several times at the top of the hill before you've hit a speed that you need to apply firmly, the cast iron cracks and checks mostly from applying brakes hard when the metal is cold, so warm them up gradually before you need to use them hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 FWIW, When my wife first started driving our coach she made a lot of solo trips to dog shows, not having a job has it's benefits. We live in E TN and any direction we go there are steep grades. When we first got the coach she was driving it way more then me. When I was finally with her as a passenger I noticed she wasn't using the exhaust brake as much as I though she should so I provided some creative criticism on the exhaust brake and how to stab the brakes (you know how that goes) and she started to push back. I finally laid down law and told her she'd be paying for the first brake job if she didn't use the exhaust brake as much as possible, that changed her tune. We've put ~70 K miles on our rig, now have 125K mile on it and the brake shoes still have lots of meat on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 1 hour ago, Bob Keating said: I think I am still a bit in "car mode" with what I expect from the coach in regard to the ability to climb and descend steep grades. Yeah, you want to get out of that mode quickly! Many that try to drive these beasts like a car in the mountains, find themselves at the side of the road with flames shooting out of their wheels! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Keating Posted April 10 Author Share Posted April 10 The coach has about 41,000 miles on it, and the brakes appear to have plenty of meat on them. The engine is an ISB 340 HP/620PFT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 You know to frequently help the auto slack adjusters do their thing. While stopped, with the parking brake off, (wheels chocked if needed), give the brake pedal 5 or 6 hard presses, removing your foot from the pedal quickly. The adjusters do their adjustments on release of the pedal . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J A Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 You may want to look into using a larger tire where possible. A better tire patch, footprint, on the road will give you better control, a better ride and braking too. Less inflation pressure too. Have you weighed your coach to establish the correct cold tire inflation recommended by your tire MFG.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotosrggp1 Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 If you move to disc brakes you will also need to change the master cylinder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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