gjh2916 Posted June 22 Share Posted June 22 On the high current plate their is a Battery Boost Solenoid I am pointing to it, and per attached drawing. Is this what everyone refers to a Big Boy solenoid? I'm having trouble keeping my chassis battery charged when plugged into shore power. I just replaced chassis battery and when plugged into shore power the chassis side of battery boost solenoid reads 12.78 volts, and the house side of solenoid reads 14.5 volts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug and Nicki Posted June 22 Share Posted June 22 (edited) See the following comments. These guys obviously know their stuff. Edited June 23 by Doug and Nicki Clarification Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted June 22 Share Posted June 22 Actually NO. The ORIGINAL Battery Boost Solenoid was called something different…even Isolator. Whatever is on your prints. Later on when Monaco started using the INTELLITEC brand, they were called BIG BOYS….as that was the product name. You do NOT have an Intellitec BIG BOY. BUT you do have an older version by a different vendor. But the control circuitry is totally different. NOW THAT’s NOT CONFUSING?.? LOL. You have either a White Rodgers or a Trombetta solenoid. I don’t know if they can be cleaned. The BIG BOY Solenoid in the 100 A size works off a continuous 12 VDC signal to the control wires (small terminals). But, just to make it confusing, the 200 A, which is the mainstay and most commonly called BIG BOY is only rated for 15 - 30 seconds of FULL 12 VDC. It will start to overheat the coil and burn it up. There are specific control devices to reduce the control voltage to 8 or 4 VDC….then that puppy will stay happy. Without having the print you have, I can, factually tell you this. The solenoid IS supposed to be engaged and the internal high current contacts carry up to the rated level and it IS a a continuous duty…so the voltage to the control wires can stay on. Two ways to test…do both. Have someone hold down the BATT BOOST switch. Don’t know without your circuit, which “system”, House or Chassis provides the control voltage. Try it KEY OFF. Check the small terminals. Then KEY ON…test again. Should be 12 VDC. Finally…no joy. Remove the one wire. Do a continuity test to ground. If NOT a ground….try the other. ONE has go be ground. What does the print say. Once you have a good ground connected to a terminal…then any 12 VDC source should energize or lock (CLUNK) in the solenoid. ONCE engaged….read the voltage to ground on each side. Should be exactly, probably less than 0.1 VDC difference. Then put the probes on the two studs. ZERO Volts or less than 0.1 VDC. IF so….coil is good and contacts are good. If coil is bad….need replacement. If high resistwnce….such as more than 0.2-0.3 VDC difference or reading across the studs…bad contacts. BUT if the coil works and the testing shows good contacts…and your boost works…now a matter of chasing the circuit. BUT, most folks with rigs like yours and that big 3 stud device are replacing the whole system. They are installing a Blue Seas ML-ACR. Really inexpensive and you will or might spend more trying to put in “new” parts on a totally outdated system. Use the search here. Put in ML-ACR or ACR or Blue Seas….then click on everywhere. Choose topics. Skim. Scads of topics and how to and info. Do the search again….this time use files. I think someone wrote up a paper on it, EDIT….look in your manual. Probably in section 9 Chassis electrical or maybe section 9. There is usually a diagram or pictorial. MY GUESS….from the connection points and trying to blow up the print….yes…that is the BATTERY BOOST Solenoid…trust me….but VERIFY yourself…. That’s it…good luck…let us know… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Frank McElroy Posted June 22 Solution Share Posted June 22 2 hours ago, gjh2916 said: On the high current plate their is a Battery Boost Solenoid I am pointing to it, and per attached drawing. Is this what everyone refers to a Big Boy solenoid? I'm having trouble keeping my chassis battery charged when plugged into shore power. I just replaced chassis battery and when plugged into shore power the chassis side of battery boost solenoid reads 12.78 volts, and the house side of solenoid reads 14.5 volts. You do not have a big boy in your model year coach. You likely have a failed battery maintainer. Here is a link to a set of wiring diagrams in our Downloads section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjh2916 Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 Frank is there away to test the battery maintainer. the green light on it lit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank McElroy Posted June 23 Share Posted June 23 Measure the voltage to see if the House batteries while being charged is passing through to the chassis batteries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjh2916 Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 I'm going to test my battery maintainer tomorrow, I found the testing procedure for Lambert LE-415. Also has anyone used a Xantrex Digal Echo Charge 82-0123-01 If my LE-415 is bad the two choices are the Echo Charge or Blue Seas ML-ACR. Looks like Echo Charge is easier installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joefromperry Posted June 23 Share Posted June 23 15 minutes ago, gjh2916 said: I'm going to test my battery maintainer tomorrow, I found the testing procedure for Lambert LE-415. Also has anyone used a Xantrex Digal Echo Charge 82-0123-01 If my LE-415 is bad the two choices are the Echo Charge or Blue Seas ML-ACR. Looks like Echo Charge is easier installation. I used the Echo Charge in my 2003 Signature while I had my Big Boy out to clean / repair. It worked as it should, and I keep it connected, minus the fuse, in case I have Big Boy problems again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgecederholm Posted June 23 Share Posted June 23 14 hours ago, gjh2916 said: I'm going to test my battery maintainer tomorrow, I found the testing procedure for Lambert LE-415. Also has anyone used a Xantrex Digal Echo Charge 82-0123-01 If my LE-415 is bad the two choices are the Echo Charge or Blue Seas ML-ACR. Looks like Echo Charge is easier installation. I installed a Xantrex “Digital echo-charge” in the front run bay when I added a dedicated starting battery for the generator. Working fine for the past 4 years. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjh2916 Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 My battery maintainer is defective that's why my chassis battery is not staying charged when plugged into shore power. I just had another thought other than the Blue Seas or Xantrex Echo. Buy a weatherproof NOCO 5amp smart charger, plug it into the duplex Block Heat outlet, unplug block heater which I never use. Then control the NOCO charger with Dash block heat switch. Anyone see any problems with this application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjh2916 Posted July 30 Author Share Posted July 30 I tried 5 amp smart charger powered by the block heat circuit. It works but the problem is every time the 120 volt supply power is interrupted I have to reset the NOCO 5 amp smart charger. I decided to purchase a Blue Seas ML-ACR 7620, getting ready to install and I have a question. I going to use the remote control switch. Do I use the Start Isolation, or Engine Isolation wiring diagram? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted July 30 Share Posted July 30 OK...TWO links. READ EACH. I did an INFORMATION topic on the ML-ACR. Have you searched for these...if not, please do that... http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/990180180.pdf OK, the above is the instructions. USE THE ONE ON THE LEFT...the START ISOLATION. The OTHER ONE SAYS...TWO ENGINES... NOPE. NOW...if you read the topic that I wrote, it also explains the IMPORTANCE of running or having TWO WIRES. You MUST have that for the status as well as the ERROR codes. Your 2001 will NOT have the EXTRA Blue wire...so disregard all that. THERE may be, but I am NOT the expert...a few spare WIRES that were put there by Monaco. A 2000/2001 member might chime in. Otherwise...use the SINGLE wire from the existing BOOST Switch. It PROBABLY does how power in...and then is the wire to the ML-ACR and then find the spare or run a wire for the YELLOW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjh2916 Posted July 30 Author Share Posted July 30 Thank you Tom I will update after I install the ML-ACR in the next few days. Waiting for the weather to cool down here in Tennessee heat index 105 today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank McElroy Posted July 30 Share Posted July 30 37 minutes ago, gjh2916 said: I tried 5 amp smart charger powered by the block heat circuit. It works but the problem is every time the 120 volt supply power is interrupted I have to reset the NOCO 5 amp smart charger. I decided to purchase a Blue Seas ML-ACR 7620, getting ready to install and I have a question. I going to use the remote control switch. Do I use the Start Isolation, or Engine Isolation wiring diagram? If you want the chassis and house batteries isolated while starting the engine, use the start isolation option. The engine isolation option would typically be used on a dual engine motor yacht 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwhittle Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 The Blue Sea 7622 is a better choice than the 7620 as it has a manual switch on it in addition to the remote. i did not connect any of the isolation wires. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjh2916 Posted July 31 Author Share Posted July 31 Paul Do you have a photo of your install showing what components you eliminated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHRookie Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 Hope this works. It’s from Paul and what Inused for my install. It looks like it is the whole post… scroll through until you see PWHITTLE post where he has marker drawings on the schematic page. It’s on bottom of page 1 or on page 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjh2916 Posted August 10 Author Share Posted August 10 I am installing a Blue Seas ML-ACR and I noticed that all the photos that I could find on the forum has the Chassis battery and Alternator cables connected to the A terminal of the ACR, and House battery cable connected to the B terminal. The Blues ACR installation instructions shows just the opposite house to A, and Chassis to B. Does this make a difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHRookie Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 17 minutes ago, gjh2916 said: I am installing a Blue Seas ML-ACR and I noticed that all the photos that I could find on the forum has the Chassis battery and Alternator cables connected to the A terminal of the ACR, and House battery cable connected to the B terminal. The Blues ACR installation instructions shows just the opposite house to A, and Chassis to B. Does this make a difference? It makes no difference BUT, the alternator cable MUST go on the same stud as the chassis battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjh2916 Posted August 11 Author Share Posted August 11 11 minutes ago, MHRookie said: It makes no difference BUT, the alternator cable MUST go on the same stud as the chassis battery. Here is my before and after photos, my problem is I have no house power when I am running Engine or just sitting still engine not running or plugged into shore power. When I plug into shore power I have house power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHRookie Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 (edited) 38 minutes ago, gjh2916 said: Here is my before and after photos, my problem is I have no house power when I am running Engine or just sitting still engine not running or plugged into shore power. When I plug into shore power I have house power. The one change you need to make… from chassis/alt “Y”, you have a wire that goes from “Y” to the top fuse. That wire should go from the ACR LUG up to the fuse - on the chassis side (like the copper leg you have from the left side of ACR down to house fuses). I am not certain that will fix the issue you are having but that’s how it should be hooked up. The flow of power looks like it will still work, it’s just different than the installs I have seen. as Paul Whittle states, the other ACR with the switch would be a better choice so you can disconnect battery banks from eachother. your house power may be related to the salesman switch inside coach OR in that RRB (lower right solenoid)…check both sides for power. Edited August 11 by MHRookie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjh2916 Posted August 11 Author Share Posted August 11 41 minutes ago, MHRookie said: The one change you need to make… from chassis/alt “Y”, you have a wire that goes from “Y” to the top fuse. That wire should go from the ACR LUG up to the fuse - on the chassis side (like the copper leg you have from the left side of ACR down to house fuses). I am not certain that will fix the issue you are having but that’s how it should be hooked up. The flow of power looks like it will still work, it’s just different than the installs I have seen. as Paul Whittle states, the other ACR with the switch would be a better choice so you can disconnect battery banks from eachother. your house power may be related to the salesman switch inside coach OR in that RRB (lower right solenoid)…check both sides for power. With the remote I can isolate the batteries by switching the remote switch to off position, I don't understand or see what the difference where the wire going to the top fuse is connected. If I move it down to the ACR chassis post it will still be connected to the chassis/Alt Y. Update on house power, only items up front of coach was not working dash radio, visor shades, dash fans, etc. Solenoid on right in panel with ACR is extremely hot, and I don't think it is working. I'm going to replace tomorrow. Thank you for your help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHRookie Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 15 minutes ago, gjh2916 said: With the remote I can isolate the batteries by switching the remote switch to off position, I don't understand or see what the difference where the wire going to the top fuse is connected. If I move it down to the ACR chassis post it will still be connected to the chassis/Alt Y. Update on house power, only items up front of coach was not working dash radio, visor shades, dash fans, etc. Solenoid on right in panel with ACR is extremely hot, and I don't think it is working. I'm going to replace tomorrow. Thank you for your help Correct, as I mentioned the power flow would still work… just have not seen that done that way before. Originally, there was real small wire from the battery boost solenoid to the fuse. You are just having the power travel differently than others. The solenoids will get hot. Test both sides for power if it’s NOT passing through, use a jumper cable and jumper the large posts and see if that fixes the issue. a lot of people have removed and/or permanently bypassed that solenoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjh2916 Posted August 12 Author Share Posted August 12 On 8/10/2024 at 9:02 PM, MHRookie said: Correct, as I mentioned the power flow would still work… just have not seen that done that way before. Originally, there was real small wire from the battery boost solenoid to the fuse. You are just having the power travel differently than others. The solenoids will get hot. Test both sides for power if it’s NOT passing through, use a jumper cable and jumper the large posts and see if that fixes the issue. a lot of people have removed and/or permanently bypassed that solenoid. Solenoid was bad replaced it and now everything is working the way it should. Just a coincidence it when out when installing ML_ACR 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHRookie Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 Good to hear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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