Jlalpaugh Posted July 1 Share Posted July 1 The outlet I use charge my phone has stopped working. There is no power to it. I am quite certain it shorted out as it was loose and I think it sparked (smelled and sounded like it). Now there is no power to the wires connecting it, but I can’t find a blown fuse and everything else works perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted July 1 Share Posted July 1 Check the front drivers side electrical bay, I have a 15 amp fuse labeled " cigarette lighter" 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted July 1 Share Posted July 1 Mine was in the Front Run Bay run through a fuse called RESERVED. Could be anywhere / anything. Go figure. - bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jlalpaugh Posted July 2 Author Share Posted July 2 I have a very similar sheet. But nothing marked cigarette lighter or 12 volt jack etc. I guess I just keep pulling them and replacing until I find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jlalpaugh Posted July 2 Author Share Posted July 2 I have replaced every fuse, none appeared to be blown, and still now power to the wires leading to the cigarette lighter. ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 May have to pull the cigarette lighter out and check voltage to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jlalpaugh Posted July 2 Author Share Posted July 2 There is no voltage coming to it. That is why I checked the fuses. Seems odd there is no power to it but the fuse is not blown. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterSchweizer Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 26 minutes ago, Jlalpaugh said: I have replaced every fuse, none appeared to be blown, and still now power to the wires leading to the cigarette lighter. ??? Next time use a volt meter or a 12 circuit tester probe looks Like an ice pick with a wire and alligator clip on the end place the clip on a good ground and probe the top side of each fuse while in place n power on. Note: On the top of the small colored plastic fuses are 2 bare spots one on each side of the fuseable link. This test will check that you have power on each side of fuse and tells you if the fuse is good and also showes if has power to it. Having a general knowledge how to test 12 volt DC and 120 V AC circuits is a good skill to have. Watch you Tube basic electricity n or RV too, to get comfortable circuits before moving on to AC power teating. 12Volt DC systems are easy and owning an RV or boat could save you time off thr Road and hundreds if not thousands of dollars troubleshooting systems before calling a tech $$$$ or going to a shop, dealer $$$$$$$.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jlalpaugh Posted July 2 Author Share Posted July 2 Thanks, I did every fuse with the multimeter using resistance and the top contacts. All tested ok. I replaced them any way. But I still have no power to the wires connecting the accessory cigarette lighter. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBRODDER Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 There could easily be an in line fuse, trace the wires from the outlet back. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandick66 Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 8 hours ago, Jlalpaugh said: Thanks, I did every fuse with the multimeter using resistance and the top contacts. All tested ok. I replaced them any way. But I still have no power to the wires connecting the accessory cigarette lighter. Any thoughts? You can’t test for resistance with power applied. Did you disconnect the battery power to the panel? It’s a lot easier to use a test light or put the meter on VDC (volts DC). In an earlier post you said you replaced every fuse. That is extreme. You need to approach this systematically. You definitely have a blown fuse since you have no power to the outlet. Can you get to the back of the outlet and look at the wires? There should be 2 wires - a ground and +12 volts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 8 hours ago, Jlalpaugh said: Thanks, I did every fuse with the multimeter using resistance and the top contacts. All tested ok. I replaced them any way. But I still have no power to the wires connecting the accessory cigarette lighter. Any thoughts? ONLY two solutions...and just GIVING UP and doing it the old fashioned way might be easier. You need a TONER. You will have to hook up the "sounder" to the each wire and then use the "probe" to trace it. If your prints don't show it...bummer...but that was Monaco. PAGES and PAGES on an ancient video switch, but not a line on something used daily, like the POWER plug. The OTHER option... Run TWO wires. There is a both a HOUSE and a CHASSIS stud in the FRB. Use an inline fuse holder, 15 amp and run a new line. YOUR choice as to how you want it powered. You can get the larger diameter ring terminals for the big Power studs.. I think I have done that at least 4 times. My Step Well Cover was on the CHASSIS SWITCHED trace or part of the PCB. SO, if DW forgot to retract...turn back on switch. I pulled the FUSE (my fuses are on a board). I ran a #12 wire from the HOUSE stud and a 20 Amp inline fuse and then used a "Plug IN" spade terminal and put it into the OUTGOING leg or fuse holder... Frustrating...YES. BUT, that is the ONLY two ways.... This assumes you have a GROUND WIRE and it works.. IF YOU do NOT have a GROUND, then odds are.. There is a TWO PIN connector that you will have to manually chase (blind by feel or crawling up and under with a flashlight). NO GROUND...then the power socket's pigtail has come loose... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikadoo Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 Hey john i know your rig is a 2008, which is different than mine im sure, however during a recient upgrad i performed on mine i discovered a inline fuse i could never really know its function untill i thought i didnt need so i eliminated it. I discovered it was power for my radio and the lighter plug. Its location was in the battery box that recieved power from my coach batteries. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 On 7/1/2024 at 6:12 PM, Jlalpaugh said: I am quite certain it shorted out as it was loose and I think it sparked (smelled and sounded like it). Now there is no power to the wires connecting it... Why does this make me think of a chafed wire that then shorted and severed... it should have blown a fuse, but if it burned up quickly, maybe not? Have you traced the wires from the outlet, back behind the dash as far as possible to confirm continuity? The smell suggests to me it's in the dash, and maybe there is a fuse back there, but replacing it may not get to the root cause if a wire is shorting and sparking. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johncvandoren@gmail.com Posted July 4 Share Posted July 4 So power is good at the front run bay. Is the socket supposed to operate with the ignition on or off? There may be a relay gone bad. You can find another power source somewhere, or take it from the ignition switch itself, and put in an inline fuse. Or do you have a lost ground? Look for a white wire screwed to a metal frame member behind the dash. Tie the ground wire into that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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