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Index
Bar SR Ranch
Discussions
Chargerman
14 hours ago, Paul J A said:I used stainless steel bolts, with castle nuts and stainless steel hair pin clips for fasteners for the base plates on the toad.
Also used stainless pins with drilled holes for a lock on each pin.
The carbon steel base plate is the weakest link in the chain. The land between the holes, space, makes me nervous.
IF the toad is of an age that justifies the investment I would replicate the toad base plate brackets in stainless and be done . Pretty simple part to do. A reputable quality fab shop could do that easily.
Not trying to make an argument by any means Paul but I would be concerned about using stainless bolts in any application that encounters high stress situations. They are rather soft and are not recommended for high load/ stress applications. I love stainless fasteners and use them as much as possible but for high load and high impact stress needs I go with grade 8. Besides the higher hardness I like the anti corrosive properties that the coating provides.
Chargerman
Also, check the cable connections at the Aladdin box that is inside the dash and accessible by removing the cover on top of the dash. I had the same issue and a connector had come off there
det944
What you have circled is a stop covered with carpet. This limits the travel of the door in the stowed position. When stowed the inbd edge of the door is flush with the cabinetry.
Just now, det944 said:What you have circled is a stop covered with carpet. This limits the travel of the door in the stowed position. When stowed the inbd edge of the door is flush with the cabinetry.
As shown in my 1st group of pics.
Redg58
Thanks, I attempted to check the pressure on the accumulator and had water coming out, so I’m assuming the bladder has failed. Now plan to remove or cap it off. Don’t really have an understanding of the vibration loops, can you elaborate? Would you happen to have any pictures of the setup?
saflyer
11 hours ago, Steven P said:I have TSD and was worried about this too. I created a fuel account that TSD is tied to. I move $ in when needed to only keep a small amount in case of hacking. Never had an issue.
Ditto. I had a free checking account with my brokerage. Never used it so I dedicated it to TSD.
Tom Cherry
Most of Monaco’s pumps were direct of hard plumbed with PEX. (Or equivalent). Some of the lines were laying of floor of bay where pump was. The vibrations from the pump would lack like a” “bass drum” in that the pex would vibrate up and down and “smack” the floor. NOISE.
See below. You need or most do, one on each end. That solves it.
Hope this helps….probably some pictures here, but the concept is simple. May be a video on Youtube on “reduce rv water pump vibration”. Folks that used the 2 X 8 (or whatever width you need) pad with rubber underneath it and the loops said that they could barely hear the pump. In SOME cases, Monaco dropped down the pex and didn’t run on the floor. Mine is on floor and I put Pipe Insulation (split in half) under the pex and that fixed mine…
NOT all need it…but raising and protecting the pump and the flex line loops is the first class way…and you got a first class rig…LOL.
Maintenance on Rooftop AC's
bryan browne
I know dometic has some, not sure if they can be retrofitted to your appication. Windshield PS Shade Won't Go Down - Repaired
redstickbill
Thank you again Frank. Installed the board when I got back to the coach last evening, very happy to say that everything works as it should.
Bill B 07 Dynasty
jacwjames
23 hours ago, Jdw12345 said:Isn’t there a kit you can purchase with a gasket and drain cups to use the original drain line to the ground?
To work correctly there as to be drain tubing run from the inside down through the walls.
My guess is that on certain models Monaco did install the drains but may not have used the AC's with the drain cups.
If you do have the tubing installed you can install the drain cups. The kit includes a gasket, the cups, cross over tubing, a T, and the hose clamps. Not hard to install but to do it correctly you have to disconnect the wiring. You could take a chance and cut the gasket and then glue it back together.
~5 years ago did both of mine, then when I replaced the AC's I used the cups again.
jacwjames
I need to go to my bank and see if I can create a different account. If not may have to just associate with my CC and take the 1.9% hit >>>> but I'd still get a 1% rebate on general merchandise , not as good as 5% but better then nothing.
And I know that both my CC's have good fraudulent claims polices, never had a problem getting a charge removed and my Sam's card will call and confirm a charge if it looks suspicious.
Tom Cherry
On 4/11/2024 at 10:48 AM, Garry Donohue said:That’s exactly what is happening to me. Except the opposite…The passenger shade is fine. The driver shade will go up, but will not go down.
PM @Frank McElroy. He is an electonics wizard. He will repair and test the board.
Bar SR Ranch
Thanks to Bob Mackie (Bob125) I was able to purchase one master and two slave modules from him, those 3 plus 5 other modules that I have are headed to Frank to be checked to confirm they are all working correctly.
Hopefully after I get all of the modules back from Frank and correct some wiring the coach will be back to OEM.
Chargerman
I did the same thing SteveP did for the same reason. Works fine and don’t have to worry about someone else having access to my other account(s)
Gweedo
On 4/15/2024 at 9:33 PM, timaz996 said:Sorry I'm don't anything about the Brake buddy setup. Someone here should.
Sorry I have an Even Brake system not a brake buddy, I think I pulled that name out of my A**!!
Benjamin
The basic cause of most pump noise is the pulsating output. These pumps are positive displacement pumps with a pulsating output, not a centrifugal pump like a well pump. Any bit of accumulator near the pump output will help dampen that pulse. The softer vinyl hose absorbs some of that pressure pulse. A tee with a section of pipe going up and capped so it holds air will help also, that would be a tiny accumulator commonly called a water hammer arrestor.
Paul J A
3 hours ago, Chargerman said:Not trying to make an argument by any means Paul but I would be concerned about using stainless bolts in any application that encounters high stress situations. They are rather soft and are not recommended for high load/ stress applications. I love stainless fasteners and use them as much as possible but for high load and high impact stress needs I go with grade 8. Besides the higher hardness I like the anti corrosive properties that the coating provides.
T y. Depends on the class of S S.
jpwochos
Do you have anymore pictures of the outside? Front, left, and right?
Scotty Hutto
1 hour ago, jacwjames said:I need to go to my bank and see if I can create a different account. If not may have to just associate with my CC and take the 1.9% hit >>>> but I'd still get a 1% rebate on general merchandise , not as good as 5% but better then nothing.
And I know that both my CC's have good fraudulent claims polices, never had a problem getting a charge removed and my Sam's card will call and confirm a charge if it looks suspicious.
Just my $0.02, but I would suggest setting up an account at a different bank, if you’re doing it for protection. Most banks (and credit unions) will access other accounts at that bank if an account is overdrawn. I set one up with Ally (online bank - there’s several good ones, that’s just the one I chose - here’s a list from Clark Howard: A Tale of Caution: Check your base plate!
Chargerman
I’m not aware of a class of S.S. that is rated/recommended for high load, high stress conditions. What class do you use for these applications?
grizzly
On 4/14/2024 at 11:01 AM, Tom Cherry said:His is different. FRONT Thermostat only controls front unit. One DATA COMMUNICATION CABLE (NOT PHONE) from Thermostat to plenum. Them attached to one of the dangling connctors.
He HAS power (12 VDC) to top control unit, otherwise Thermostat would not be functional..
HIS rear controls bedroom and then middle. Might have a zone 4….
I’D SWAP THERMOSTATS FIRST. EASY. Just RESET each. You HAVE 12 VDC on a pair (2 wires) of the Two Pair (4 wire) phone cable. That is what makes Thermostat light up. Power comes from front control unit. The OTHER pair is a “Multiplexed” signal. It is NOT an on or off. Pull front. Clean the data cable and the thermostat female end….plug and unplug a few times….reset….NO JOY
YOU CAN take the front Thermostat to the rear. Plug it in there. The. RESET. If it runs the rear systems, then NOT the Thermostat. There is NOTHING to set or change….plug and play. That is easiest…..eliminate components.NEXT UP
Maintenance on Rooftop AC's
ktloahYou can purchase the gasket with the cups on amazon
Omega or Omega II
dereevesAnyone know how to tell the difference between the Carefree Omega and Omega II awning? I have looked in the owners box of stuff and it only has instructions on the use of the cover. I have looked online but have found nothing stating as to the differences between the two models. I need to replace the awning fabric as it has torn at the alumniguard cover before i took ownership of the motorhome. While we were measuring for new one i noticed the tension springs don't look too awfully healthy, rust etc. That is the only difference i can find between the two models...as one spring rotates clockwise and the other model counterclockwise.
Thanks in advance!
Iam thinking the Omega has the aluminagaurd and the Omega II has the end case cover?
front ac/heat pump unit
Tom CherryOn 4/16/2024 at 1:04 PM, grizzly said:Thank you that solved that issue but I still have issue with front unit coming on when I turn switch to on and nothing turned on. Did everything Tom Cherry said and still have issue
So I did everything and still have issue. Event when I took the thermostat to roof and plugged in the unit came on with nothing turned on except the off/on switch
LAST DITCH. Swap the BOARDS. That is the ONLY THING LEFT. Try that....
BTW... DID you take the Front Thermostat and plug it in or use it in the REAR? Assumed you did...but if not....try that. Otherwise....swap the boards.
Good Luck. Thanks for the feedback. Let us know...
ME2012 Inverter/Charger inop. Remote Magnum monitor says “DC overload” fault
biloxi_dadI have a 2005 HR Ambassador which I brought home to clean up for spring/summer travel. I keep it in covered storage and periodically run it and Genny to keep batteries charged and operational over the winter. When I brought it home, applied 120V shore power to charge house batteries, run fantastic fan and residental refrigerator while cleaning. Everything has been working fine all morning. Left for a few hours and came back to fine remote monitor indicating “DC overload” fault. I shut down all power, checked 12V flooded battery voltage to be 12.5V. Checked charger/inverter and all 3 circuit breakers were set, but I reset the two output breakers just in case. The green LED on the unit was out indicating it was not working. I was running the charger and inverting option at the same time. Could I have fried the unit?
Left it over night thinking it could be an overheat issue (although never had that problem before. I checked my four 6 volt deep cycle batteries to ensure they were not low on fluid and all were fine. All connections seem tight and no corrosion. I applied shore power and checked again this morning and still showing “DC overload”. Removed shore power and applied genset power and got same result. Is there another circuit breaker I’m not checking or is the charger/inverter needing replacement (manufacture date: 3d qtr 2004)?
A Tale of Caution: Check your base plate!
Tom Cherry6 hours ago, Chargerman said:Not trying to make an argument by any means Paul but I would be concerned about using stainless bolts in any application that encounters high stress situations. They are rather soft and are not recommended for high load/ stress applications. I love stainless fasteners and use them as much as possible but for high load and high impact stress needs I go with grade 8. Besides the higher hardness I like the anti corrosive properties that the coating provides.
I can't recall what bolts are used on the Roadmaster... PROBABLY a Grade 8. That has 5 marks. If it is a Grade 5, it will have 3 marks.
ME2012 Inverter/Charger inop. Remote Magnum monitor says “DC overload” fault
vito.aCheck the push in circuit breaker on your inverter. The inverter is mounted to the basement ceiling in the main basement compartment.
If that doesn't work,. p[perform an inverter reset.
Omega or Omega II
MartinvzYou could call Chris at Talin mfg as they are (or were) a Carefree reseller. Unfortunately I am as much in the dark as you so a referral is all I have.
ME2012 Inverter/Charger inop. Remote Magnum monitor says “DC overload” fault
96 EVO15 minutes ago, biloxi_dad said:I was running the charger and inverting option at the same time. Could I have fried the unit?
Nope!
Many owners never turn off 'inverting'!
When plugged into shore power, inverting is automatically disabled.
TSD Fuel Card
jacwjamesBack in 2015 my computer was hacked, ransom ware. Called the bank VP at 11PM and she came into the office and isolated all my accounts. From then I've been real cautious about the accounts.
Not saying that someone couldn't access the other accounts but the bank VP>now the President has assured me that the individual accounts are safe BUT you never know.
I've got automatic payment on a bunch of different things>>> electric, phones, internet....... One more but with a different account won't hurt.
But I have been thinking about opening another high yield account with a different back that offers better terms.
A Tale of Caution: Check your base plate!
Scotty HuttoJust as additional info…
The Roadmaster kit came with four grade 8 bolts that carry the main load, but additionally four of the bolts original to the vehicle were reused, and they were grade 5 flange bolts.
In my event, none of the bolts failed, but next inspection I may consider replacing the four grade 5 bolts with grade 8, if I can find the correct size and thread pitch in grade 8… I’ll check McMaster-Carr and see if I can find them.
ME2012 Inverter/Charger inop. Remote Magnum monitor says “DC overload” fault
klcdenverIn case you do not have the Magnum Manual I have attached it for you. In troubleshooting it tells you how to reset they system. Hope this helps.
A Tale of Caution: Check your base plate!
jacwjamesTractor supply has a large assortment of bolts with a lot sold by the lb for good prices
I needed two small 5/16 bolt, that they sell by the pound. bought some other stuff and when I checked out the clerk tried to weigh the two small bolts, not enough weight so it registered $0. 👍
Windshield PS Shade Won't Go Down - Repaired
Garry Donohue5 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:PM @Frank McElroy. He is an electonics wizard. He will repair and test the board.
Ok
Aladdin
Garry DonohueI had same problem and it was a corroded wire coming out of the top of the rear run box located in the engine compartment. The white plug that plugs into at the top of the rear run box had a wire corroded as it comes out of the back of that white plug.
front ac/heat pump unit
grizzly2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:LAST DITCH. Swap the BOARDS. That is the ONLY THING LEFT. Try that....
BTW... DID you take the Front Thermostat and plug it in or use it in the REAR? Assumed you did...but if not....try that. Otherwise....swap the boards.
Good Luck. Thanks for the feedback. Let us know...
2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:LAST DITCH. Swap the BOARDS. That is the ONLY THING LEFT. Try that....
BTW... DID you take the Front Thermostat and plug it in or use it in the REAR? Assumed you did...but if not....try that. Otherwise....swap the boards.
Good Luck. Thanks for the feedback. Let us know...
Yea did that and same issue. I even took the thermostat up to roof and plugged directly into the board and had same issue. When you say swap boards do you mean the boards that are in the ac unit on the roof? Do you know if and where you can get a new one if needed Tom Cherry?
Maintenance on Rooftop AC's
dennis.mcdonaughOn 4/16/2024 at 8:33 AM, Jdw12345 said:Isn’t there a kit you can purchase with a gasket and drain cups to use the original drain line to the ground?
Yes. I am installed them when I replaced both my 20+ year old units. I still have a used set in case I need to replace one.
Install bedroom door
John C8 hours ago, det944 said:What you have circled is a stop covered with carpet. This limits the travel of the door in the stowed position. When stowed the inbd edge of the door is flush with the cabinetry.
As shown in my 1st group of pics.
Now I know why, because my coach doesn't come with a door, so my coach has a corner much higher than that of yours. If I don't do anything, the 30" door will be 4" over the cabinetry. Looks like I will have to cut the corner so the door can move 4" extra inside toward the wall.
Thank you!
Coach Step Overrun
rpasettoI finally got back to this and not it's working well. Clamped a medium-size adjustable wrench to the "angle bracket" and used a big wrench for enough leverage to bend the bracket to 45 degrees so the adjustment bolt fits into the "vee" of the angle iron, inside the step. I adjusted the bolt to its max extension so it stops the step before the arms go over-center. I think there are a few worn bushings to deal with in the future. Never got rubber stoppers, but, had some reinforced rubber fuel line which I forced over the end of the bolt.
I'll spray some more dry lube on the slides. They probably need replacement but for now... another check box on the to-do list.
Omega or Omega II
Russ RIf you open the awning fully. There should be a tag on the roller tube. It will have the serial number on it. Then you can call Carefree and get all the information you need. From what I have been told is that the difference is the spring. Omega II has a left side spring and the Omega has a right hand. standing in front of and looking at the awning.
Install bedroom door
jacwjamesCan you see if there is any wiring etc run in that box or is it just a filler piece?? Could it be cut down a little?? Possibly removed and replaced with a wood covering and stained to match the door.
Omega or Omega II
dereeves3 minutes ago, Russ R said:If you open the awning fully. There should be a tag on the roller tube. It will have the serial number on it. Then you can call Carefree and get all the information you need.
I will look...we did kind of look when measuring but i don't recall seeing one, but i wasn't looking for one so i will do that. Thanks.
Maintenance on Rooftop AC's
jacwjames56 minutes ago, dennis.mcdonaugh said:Yes. I am installed them when I replaced both my 20+ year old units. I still have a used set in case I need to replace one.
When I replaced my cups and gaskets the old cups were really brittle. I bought new cups "just in case" glad I did, I threw the old cups away.
Sanicon hose new free
GweedoI upgraded to the newer Sanicon and I have a new 1” spare hose never used from my old one. If you can use it let me know. Free.
Sanicon hose new free
bill4029About to do the Turbo upgrade on My Marquis.. Did you run new power or use the existing power for the turbo. I see it indicates a higher amperage, but suspect the draw is normally much less. If I need to run higher amperage I have to decide where to run it from. my batteries directly or from the central power area.
Thanks !
Bill D.
Sanicon hose new free
Steve PI would very much like to have your spare 1" hose... mine has pinholes
Best replacement water pump?
IvylogLike Jim ^^^ “last year the diaphram for the pressure switch started to leak, they do not sell just the the diaphram (probably a $0.25 piece). I ended up buying the a Remco pressure switch just to get the diaphram but that fixed the leak” I had to buy the pressure switch to get the diaphragm.
I wonder if a diaphragm could be 3D printed out of a silicon base material?
ME2012 Inverter/Charger inop. Remote Magnum monitor says “DC overload” fault
biloxi_dadThanks for the Owner manual for the ME2012 inverter/charger. I have one already, but the one you provided was much updated (2017) compared to mine (2005). Not sure how much is valid to my older unit. In my manual, it does mention resetting the unit, but doesn’t tell how. I have done the factory reset option on the remote, but no luck getting the charger to operate.
As stated in my original request for assistance, I have checked and reset the breakers on the inverter/charger.
I have removed power from the unit by opening the 120V breaker on the main panel in the back bedroom for the inverter and connecting the 12V battery bank to the inverted/charger unit. When I close the 120V breaker and power is applied to the unit, I can hear what sounds like a unit under the kitchen power up (humming) for about 5-10 seconds. Then the humming stops and in the past that’s when the inverter/charger would come on according to the remote readout. I could always hear this when I start the genset and it supplies voltage to the coach. But now once the hum stops, nothing else happens. The readout shows current house battery charge and the red”fault” light comes on the remote and it reads DC Overload. Is it possible that the T Series fuse to the Inverter/Charger is blown? Would this cause my problem? This fuse is in the battery bay on the other side of the wall from the Inverter/charger.
Sanicon hose new free
BradHendDon’t need the hose, but looks like you have a nice setup there sir. 👍
Faded head lights
GweedoPurchased a kit in Amazon. Headlight look like new. About 15-minutes to do
Install bedroom door
det944I measured my door....29" ....so not much difference. Notching the door would provide clearance but if you install a lower guide like the factory, it could cause alignment issues on the lower track when stowing the door. I like Jim's thought to see if that box on yours can be removed modified or replaced to allow the door more travel.
Ism 500 - 2008 Dynasty - engine fault code
Doug and NickiI received a fault code 1 111 01 25 on a recent trip. The dash light was only on for about 30 seconds and then went off for the rest of the trip. I have looked at possible causes and see it may be ECM failure. Not sure if this is a correct diagnosis from this code.
About six weeks ago, the engine would crank but not start. I shut off the post electric and the battery disconnects. After ten minutes, I then reconnected the power. This apparently reset the ECM and it started right up.
Have any of you had this experience? Is there a concern that the ECM may be failing? What other possibilities may cause this?
Sanicon hose new free
LakeBob2 hours ago, bill4029 said:About to do the Turbo upgrade on My Marquis.. Did you run new power or use the existing power for the turbo. I see it indicates a higher amperage, but suspect the draw is normally much less. If I need to run higher amperage I have to decide where to run it from. my batteries directly or from the central power area.
Thanks !
Bill D.
Would love to know more about the "Turbo" upgrade. Love my original Sanicon system, however its fairly slow, especially on the larger gray tank.
Would appreciate more information as well. Should we start another post?
Thanks!
Bob
Install bedroom door
John C3 hours ago, jacwjames said:Can you see if there is any wiring etc run in that box or is it just a filler piece?? Could it be cut down a little?? Possibly removed and replaced with a wood covering and stained to match the door.
I believe it is a filler, of course I won't know until I open it.
The box is over 4" in height, so I will have to cut it for the door to move all the way in.
The only thing is I just installed vinyl floor on it, will have to remove it, cut it and put it back.
Dometic Penguin ii replacement ac/hp
63HotrodAt some point soon we will have to replace our 08 units. New versions of the same model are pricey and hard to locate
So looking for options and suggestions
Dometic Penguin ii replacement ac/hp
klcdenverI replaced my front unit with the Recpro Houghton. I have ran it for 1 summer and 1 winter. It is much quieter than a penguin and the heat pump works down into the 28 degree range. Very easy to install also.
Dometic Penguin ii replacement ac/hp
jacwjamesThere was a recent post that showed good prices from Walmart but not sure if it was a heat pump.
I replaced both both my units in 2021, both two from PPL for $2700 including tax and shipping. I just checked and most of the models are out of stock. It would cost ~$4K at current prices.
Good luck
Dometic Penguin ii replacement ac/hp
vito.aI think your best options are Penguin II or Blizzard NXT.
They were in short supply after Covid but should be readily available now. I bought a new Blizzard NXT a few months ago on Amazon.
You will also need to update the thermostat.
Ism 500 - 2008 Dynasty - engine fault code
jacwjamesI don't recognize that form of fault code, how did you recover the code?
I'm use to an SPN FMI type code, which I can take and find info from the Cummins Quickserve website. It will explain the fault code and then provide detailed info on how to troubleshoot and repair.
Omega or Omega II
joefromperryThis is what the Omega II looks like. It has question-mark shaped arms that extend the topper to become a window awning. I "think" the Omega is just a topper, and doesn't have the awning part. I have one of each on my coach.
Dometic Penguin ii replacement ac/hp
Mark BI bought 2 last September from Rackupgo and also bought a new thermostat and two soft starts. But once cry once. These guys had them in stock and were cheaper than Amazon at the time.
Omega or Omega II
dereeves5 hours ago, joefromperry said:This is what the Omega II looks like. It has question-mark shaped arms that extend the topper to become a window awning. I "think" the Omega is just a topper, and doesn't have the awning part. I have one of each on my coach.
That's what the Omega I looks like as well. I believe the difference is the II has the cover at the end versus the aluminaguard at the coach end.
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