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Faded head lights


snowman

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I am going to see if someone can help me, I found this awesome site and cannot believe the mountain of information, anyway I just recently purchased a 2003 holiday rambler imperial and the head lights are faded so bad, as bad as they are I dont think a polishing kit from a auto parts store will bring them back, so I am wanting to know if anyone has replaced the assemblies and where did you get them, I have seen a lot of people say they are the ford type but they are not. 

Thanks 

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Wash lens, then Use 600 then 1000 then 2000 grit wet and dry sandpaper (use with water) to get the great majority of haze off.  Then rubbing compound with a bonnet on wheel.  Then polish.  Clean with prepsol.  Paper Mask and Spray with clear paint for UV protection.

Or look up the DOT registration numbers on the lens, do a google search and find out what Auto there were from and upgrade to projector / LED / BiXenon bulb kit.

Or customize your headlights like I did 😉

Edited by DavidL
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If you are a Sam's Club member you might try having them polish your lenses if that location offers the service. They have a 5-year guarantee.

Otherwise, there should be a number on your current headlights that will identify them.

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26 minutes ago, DavidL said:

Or look up the DOT registration numbers on the lens, do a google search and find out what Auto there were from and upgrade to projector / LED / BiXenon bulb kit.

I do a LOT of night driving and found the stock headlights inadequate (2003 HR Endeavor / 2000-2002 Lincoln LS).  In my case I added LED bulb assemblies to get the brightness I need without blinding oncoming traffic.  The pattern isn't ideal (shadows, beams into the ditch) but good enough for what I need.  I've also considered, but can't find, spot beams that will plug & play into the oval fog light holes (most everything is a fog light pattern). 

Headlight assemblies can be converted to projection bulbs but requires chopping apart the old assembly to do it.  Perhaps buy a pair of headlights from headlightsdepot.com and have an auto custom shop install projection bulbs on the old assemblies (several youtube videos on the process).  If they don't butcher it you can polish the old assemblies and send the purchased headlights back (if they allow) or, if you can find them on Amazon, they have a very liberal return policy.  Knowing what "auto" your headlights were made for is required . . . . or maybe headlightsdepot.com can do the conversion ($$$). 

- bob

Edited by cbr046
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39 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

I do a LOT of night driving and found the stock headlights inadequate (2003 HR Endeavor / 2000-2002 Lincoln LS).  In my case I added LED bulb assemblies to get the brightness I need without blinding oncoming traffic.  The pattern isn't ideal (shadows, beams into the ditch) but good enough for what I need.  I've also considered, but can't find, spot beams that will plug & play into the oval fog light holes (most everything is a fog light pattern). 

Headlight assemblies can be converted to projection bulbs but requires chopping apart the old assembly to do it.  Perhaps buy a pair of headlights from headlightsdepot.com and have an auto custom shop install projection bulbs on the old assemblies (several youtube videos on the process).  If they don't butcher it you can polish the old assemblies and send the purchased headlights back (if they allow) or, if you can find them on Amazon, they have a very liberal return policy.  Knowing what "auto" your headlights were made for is required . . . . or maybe headlightsdepot.com can do the conversion ($$$). 

- bob

Yup, Been there, done that 😉

 

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2 hours ago, snowman said:

I am going to see if someone can help me, I found this awesome site and cannot believe the mountain of information, anyway I just recently purchased a 2003 holiday rambler imperial and the head lights are faded so bad, as bad as they are I dont think a polishing kit from a auto parts store will bring them back, so I am wanting to know if anyone has replaced the assemblies and where did you get them, I have seen a lot of people say they are the ford type but they are not. 

Thanks 

I didn't take any pictures but mine were really bad and I bought a cheap kit from Amazon just to give it a try before spending the money on new ones. I was totally surprised how well they turned out. For the cost and little time it takes might be worth trying it first.

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Hey Snowman welcome, so reading your issue with the headlights, i understand. I had tried the kit from the the place the rv geeks raved about, in fact i bought an used one for my rv, my jeep and my neighbors car they all looked “ok” for about 3 months🤦‍♂️ Then i found a company out here that for $100. Each would come out an perform the polishing which they said would last a whole year… to be clear that they would come to my house, the charge was $100. For EACH side and only last for 1 year  i said “toro poo poo”

So i copied the #s off each lamp assy an went to Rock Auto, for a little over the $$$ to clean them i got 2 new lamp assemblies LESS the bulbs!

Now the Instalation FOR ME was challanging as i had just been diagnosed with “frozen shoulder” UGH! Which ment i had limited use of my left arm, however i am Determind!!! I believe there were 3 screws on each side, doing one side at a time i removed the screws, however there was some of the spray in foam that had secured itself to the back of the housing which i seperated using a screwdriver. Once out, i placed the old an new one side by side i had to measure each spot where the screw holes were an transfere that to the new ones. After that i cleaned the cavity where it was to go, then waxed the hole cause i knew there might be so difference from the old to the new. As i started the install i found the lamp assys have a nice new rubber trim piece around it that was hanging me up, so rather than struggle with it i sprayed the rubber with a liquid silicone, crap! Now they almost fell thru the hole before getting the screws in place👍 Even with my bad shoulder on a scale of 1 to ten worst being a ten, i gave it a 4… the pics dont do it justice however the results are AMAZING. Needless to say i changed ALL the bulbs to LED, thank goodness i had one good shoulder so i could pat myself on the back😎C60E865A-3819-45FF-85BE-33E74231B53C.thumb.jpeg.5bf77f20c2b874b8a7c29387c4bb4988.jpeg334064B7-4A1C-423E-B62D-1A1455D0E127.thumb.jpeg.58d268ab3bb40bbfdf72eb5134b41a79.jpeg

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I cant find my before pictures but I used toothpaste and a toothbrush. Took me ten minutes to do both back in March. Still looking good.28A1724C-EA15-44C0-8A66-42D02C63C468.thumb.jpeg.d6f4929fe67d7ea1b841df3b510f70c1.jpeg

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Quick word from all the various discussions on the old Yahoo board and here... 

Plus, I spent time in a major Headlight (USA of all places) factory during my tenure while working.  There on Environmental and Safety Audits...but still had the old Manufacturing and Process Engineering curiosity so I asked questions during my several days there and learned a lot. I also have a background in molding and coating...including UV curing and Vacuum Deposition (how you get the "SHINY" microthick film on the reflectors).

The headlights have a UV Factory coating and it wears off. Washing or whatever and the elements take over. Cars or vehicles parked inside or in the shade are less likely to deteriorate. The "glaze" is the plastic breaking down...or getting scratched or whatever. SOME vendors say that they have a "special" formula plastic...that is MORE resistant.  Others use a UV cured...overspray or coating...and once it is cured...it provides the protection. This is 15 YO stuff...but I doubt than any major breakthroughs have been made....

Polishing only removes the glaze and then gives you a bright and shiny and "smooth as a baby's behind" surface. That will last (relatively, for only a while...depending on where you park and how much sunshine and such. The UV resistancy is GONE....never to be factory restored. 

There are as many "ways to protect and prolong" the new, UNPROTECTED FINISH...as there are ways that PT Barnum made MONEY.  Some better...others a pure farce.

Cleaning and polishing is not rocket science...and all the "kits that promise easy results and lifetime protection" need to be viewed with a "Grain of Salt"

The most or easiest way that folks here...dating way back...did it.  OFF Insect Repellant.  The high concentration of DEET is a plastic "dissolver" or solvent.  Ever get OFF on you fingers and touch leather or a nice pair of plastic sun glass temples or a nice camera case.  Odds are...you left your finger prints and a marred finish. TRUST me...I did it and KNOW better.  SO, if you squirt some OFF on a piece of T shirt and are "Good and Quick", you can remove the glaze and the scratches. I have taught my 16 YO GS how to do that.  THEN....I do typically leave a few "Smears" or streaks.

I use this....

Follow the video or read. That gets ALL of the streaks out and it looks just like it was molded.  CHEAP and you can use it for other stuff. I never BUFF or POLISH....but one can....if you do the OFF correctly, only a light coating and mild rubbing and wiping off is needed.

THEN...WASH the HEADLIGHT.  Get off all the Scratch X 2.0.  Then....it is dealers choice.  Many folks will spray with Aerospace 303 and that get good reviews for all our plastic from Chris Throgmartin. He MAY have a different preferred method.  but the 303 work.  You do it once a month...2 minutes and wipe off.  THAT WORKS. I do the polishing on my GK's cars...ONCE...then maybe touch up. My 2014 Yukon and 2014 ATS gets a little "wash me with soap" scrubbing every few months...and a quick coat of 303...as do the Taillights....and the Yukon sits out...full time and has logged over 25K behind that monster...with all sorts of stones and stuff kicked up at close range...and the headlights are perfect. I DID pop in LED's and then "Tweaked" the angles (No one flashes at me at night....) and the headlights are 4 times as good at from the factory...and I intend to keep them that way....

NOW...for a more permanent solution....one from EXPERIENCE....they are...and not all are included..

Provide a TOTAL PROTECTION COATING.  Sprays are out there.  Wipes are out there. There are even "Precut" pieces of 3M film (like out front "BRA's)  It is YOUR call as to what works or what you want....

NOW...I can report that after 4 years...my Camelot headlights are crystal clear.  I had Dazzling Detail remove and reskin the front Bra. I tipped the tech and he buffed my headlights and then filmed them. They are 100% CLEAR and hard as a rock. NO Deterioration.  Problem is...the dinky underpowered lights...which can NOT be converted to LED (another long saga) aren't worth diddle squat....at least for my 77 YO eyes and I do NOT drive the MH at night.

BUT....if you have some souped up LED clear lens....the 3M Bra Film, after buffing and surface prep, should last better than the original factory.  Putting it on and getting the contours and the heat and bubble removing right...looked a bit finicky...but we have folks here that are way more skilled.

That's the synopsis....I can't recall if there was ever a White Paper that Fred White put together.  NOT AN EXPERT...just parroting what I remember and the consensus  and also what I do know about how a headlight is made...and that factory made every Jeep Cherokee headlight for at least 15 years...may be closed now...but it was top notch...

 

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