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Faded head lights


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I am going to see if someone can help me, I found this awesome site and cannot believe the mountain of information, anyway I just recently purchased a 2003 holiday rambler imperial and the head lights are faded so bad, as bad as they are I dont think a polishing kit from a auto parts store will bring them back, so I am wanting to know if anyone has replaced the assemblies and where did you get them, I have seen a lot of people say they are the ford type but they are not. 

Thanks 

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Wash lens, then Use 600 then 1000 then 2000 grit wet and dry sandpaper (use with water) to get the great majority of haze off.  Then rubbing compound with a bonnet on wheel.  Then polish.  Clean with prepsol.  Paper Mask and Spray with clear paint for UV protection.

Or look up the DOT registration numbers on the lens, do a google search and find out what Auto there were from and upgrade to projector / LED / BiXenon bulb kit.

Or customize your headlights like I did 😉

Edited by DavidL
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If you are a Sam's Club member you might try having them polish your lenses if that location offers the service. They have a 5-year guarantee.

Otherwise, there should be a number on your current headlights that will identify them.

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26 minutes ago, DavidL said:

Or look up the DOT registration numbers on the lens, do a google search and find out what Auto there were from and upgrade to projector / LED / BiXenon bulb kit.

I do a LOT of night driving and found the stock headlights inadequate (2003 HR Endeavor / 2000-2002 Lincoln LS).  In my case I added LED bulb assemblies to get the brightness I need without blinding oncoming traffic.  The pattern isn't ideal (shadows, beams into the ditch) but good enough for what I need.  I've also considered, but can't find, spot beams that will plug & play into the oval fog light holes (most everything is a fog light pattern). 

Headlight assemblies can be converted to projection bulbs but requires chopping apart the old assembly to do it.  Perhaps buy a pair of headlights from headlightsdepot.com and have an auto custom shop install projection bulbs on the old assemblies (several youtube videos on the process).  If they don't butcher it you can polish the old assemblies and send the purchased headlights back (if they allow) or, if you can find them on Amazon, they have a very liberal return policy.  Knowing what "auto" your headlights were made for is required . . . . or maybe headlightsdepot.com can do the conversion ($$$). 

- bob

Edited by cbr046
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39 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

I do a LOT of night driving and found the stock headlights inadequate (2003 HR Endeavor / 2000-2002 Lincoln LS).  In my case I added LED bulb assemblies to get the brightness I need without blinding oncoming traffic.  The pattern isn't ideal (shadows, beams into the ditch) but good enough for what I need.  I've also considered, but can't find, spot beams that will plug & play into the oval fog light holes (most everything is a fog light pattern). 

Headlight assemblies can be converted to projection bulbs but requires chopping apart the old assembly to do it.  Perhaps buy a pair of headlights from headlightsdepot.com and have an auto custom shop install projection bulbs on the old assemblies (several youtube videos on the process).  If they don't butcher it you can polish the old assemblies and send the purchased headlights back (if they allow) or, if you can find them on Amazon, they have a very liberal return policy.  Knowing what "auto" your headlights were made for is required . . . . or maybe headlightsdepot.com can do the conversion ($$$). 

- bob

Yup, Been there, done that 😉

 

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2 hours ago, snowman said:

I am going to see if someone can help me, I found this awesome site and cannot believe the mountain of information, anyway I just recently purchased a 2003 holiday rambler imperial and the head lights are faded so bad, as bad as they are I dont think a polishing kit from a auto parts store will bring them back, so I am wanting to know if anyone has replaced the assemblies and where did you get them, I have seen a lot of people say they are the ford type but they are not. 

Thanks 

I didn't take any pictures but mine were really bad and I bought a cheap kit from Amazon just to give it a try before spending the money on new ones. I was totally surprised how well they turned out. For the cost and little time it takes might be worth trying it first.

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Hey Snowman welcome, so reading your issue with the headlights, i understand. I had tried the kit from the the place the rv geeks raved about, in fact i bought an used one for my rv, my jeep and my neighbors car they all looked “ok” for about 3 months🤦‍♂️ Then i found a company out here that for $100. Each would come out an perform the polishing which they said would last a whole year… to be clear that they would come to my house, the charge was $100. For EACH side and only last for 1 year  i said “toro poo poo”

So i copied the #s off each lamp assy an went to Rock Auto, for a little over the $$$ to clean them i got 2 new lamp assemblies LESS the bulbs!

Now the Instalation FOR ME was challanging as i had just been diagnosed with “frozen shoulder” UGH! Which ment i had limited use of my left arm, however i am Determind!!! I believe there were 3 screws on each side, doing one side at a time i removed the screws, however there was some of the spray in foam that had secured itself to the back of the housing which i seperated using a screwdriver. Once out, i placed the old an new one side by side i had to measure each spot where the screw holes were an transfere that to the new ones. After that i cleaned the cavity where it was to go, then waxed the hole cause i knew there might be so difference from the old to the new. As i started the install i found the lamp assys have a nice new rubber trim piece around it that was hanging me up, so rather than struggle with it i sprayed the rubber with a liquid silicone, crap! Now they almost fell thru the hole before getting the screws in place👍 Even with my bad shoulder on a scale of 1 to ten worst being a ten, i gave it a 4… the pics dont do it justice however the results are AMAZING. Needless to say i changed ALL the bulbs to LED, thank goodness i had one good shoulder so i could pat myself on the back😎C60E865A-3819-45FF-85BE-33E74231B53C.thumb.jpeg.5bf77f20c2b874b8a7c29387c4bb4988.jpeg334064B7-4A1C-423E-B62D-1A1455D0E127.thumb.jpeg.58d268ab3bb40bbfdf72eb5134b41a79.jpeg

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I cant find my before pictures but I used toothpaste and a toothbrush. Took me ten minutes to do both back in March. Still looking good.28A1724C-EA15-44C0-8A66-42D02C63C468.thumb.jpeg.d6f4929fe67d7ea1b841df3b510f70c1.jpeg

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Quick word from all the various discussions on the old Yahoo board and here... 

Plus, I spent time in a major Headlight (USA of all places) factory during my tenure while working.  There on Environmental and Safety Audits...but still had the old Manufacturing and Process Engineering curiosity so I asked questions during my several days there and learned a lot. I also have a background in molding and coating...including UV curing and Vacuum Deposition (how you get the "SHINY" microthick film on the reflectors).

The headlights have a UV Factory coating and it wears off. Washing or whatever and the elements take over. Cars or vehicles parked inside or in the shade are less likely to deteriorate. The "glaze" is the plastic breaking down...or getting scratched or whatever. SOME vendors say that they have a "special" formula plastic...that is MORE resistant.  Others use a UV cured...overspray or coating...and once it is cured...it provides the protection. This is 15 YO stuff...but I doubt than any major breakthroughs have been made....

Polishing only removes the glaze and then gives you a bright and shiny and "smooth as a baby's behind" surface. That will last (relatively, for only a while...depending on where you park and how much sunshine and such. The UV resistancy is GONE....never to be factory restored. 

There are as many "ways to protect and prolong" the new, UNPROTECTED FINISH...as there are ways that PT Barnum made MONEY.  Some better...others a pure farce.

Cleaning and polishing is not rocket science...and all the "kits that promise easy results and lifetime protection" need to be viewed with a "Grain of Salt"

The most or easiest way that folks here...dating way back...did it.  OFF Insect Repellant.  The high concentration of DEET is a plastic "dissolver" or solvent.  Ever get OFF on you fingers and touch leather or a nice pair of plastic sun glass temples or a nice camera case.  Odds are...you left your finger prints and a marred finish. TRUST me...I did it and KNOW better.  SO, if you squirt some OFF on a piece of T shirt and are "Good and Quick", you can remove the glaze and the scratches. I have taught my 16 YO GS how to do that.  THEN....I do typically leave a few "Smears" or streaks.

I use this....

Follow the video or read. That gets ALL of the streaks out and it looks just like it was molded.  CHEAP and you can use it for other stuff. I never BUFF or POLISH....but one can....if you do the OFF correctly, only a light coating and mild rubbing and wiping off is needed.

THEN...WASH the HEADLIGHT.  Get off all the Scratch X 2.0.  Then....it is dealers choice.  Many folks will spray with Aerospace 303 and that get good reviews for all our plastic from Chris Throgmartin. He MAY have a different preferred method.  but the 303 work.  You do it once a month...2 minutes and wipe off.  THAT WORKS. I do the polishing on my GK's cars...ONCE...then maybe touch up. My 2014 Yukon and 2014 ATS gets a little "wash me with soap" scrubbing every few months...and a quick coat of 303...as do the Taillights....and the Yukon sits out...full time and has logged over 25K behind that monster...with all sorts of stones and stuff kicked up at close range...and the headlights are perfect. I DID pop in LED's and then "Tweaked" the angles (No one flashes at me at night....) and the headlights are 4 times as good at from the factory...and I intend to keep them that way....

NOW...for a more permanent solution....one from EXPERIENCE....they are...and not all are included..

Provide a TOTAL PROTECTION COATING.  Sprays are out there.  Wipes are out there. There are even "Precut" pieces of 3M film (like out front "BRA's)  It is YOUR call as to what works or what you want....

NOW...I can report that after 4 years...my Camelot headlights are crystal clear.  I had Dazzling Detail remove and reskin the front Bra. I tipped the tech and he buffed my headlights and then filmed them. They are 100% CLEAR and hard as a rock. NO Deterioration.  Problem is...the dinky underpowered lights...which can NOT be converted to LED (another long saga) aren't worth diddle squat....at least for my 77 YO eyes and I do NOT drive the MH at night.

BUT....if you have some souped up LED clear lens....the 3M Bra Film, after buffing and surface prep, should last better than the original factory.  Putting it on and getting the contours and the heat and bubble removing right...looked a bit finicky...but we have folks here that are way more skilled.

That's the synopsis....I can't recall if there was ever a White Paper that Fred White put together.  NOT AN EXPERT...just parroting what I remember and the consensus  and also what I do know about how a headlight is made...and that factory made every Jeep Cherokee headlight for at least 15 years...may be closed now...but it was top notch...

 

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  • 1 year later...

I'd be reluctant to use it....  THERE IS A SPECIFIC PROTECTANT in the kit....see the STEP 4 instructions.  There are volatiles and such in the 303.  It works great if you don't do anything but POLISH. The protectant wipes are on of the "UNIQUE" things in the kit.  I have seen some bad things happen when you use other products.  That is why the kit is so high, $$.  But, yours.  Once you use the 303, it will probably wash off the special coating.

BTW...FWIW....  All that kit does is get you to BARE plastic....  and THEN there is a "Specialty Ceramic Protectant"... 

As I stated early in the topic, the old fashioned and cheap way is to clean off the brown/yellow oxidized finish with an insect repellant...with a high concentration of DEET.  DEET is a powerful "plasticizer" eater upper....  LEARNED THE HARD WAY.

BUT, what you are doing is just using a solvent to take off the haze.  You can polish or abrade off the out film or use DEET and wipe it of.  Probably need to do a little touch up with something like ScatchX.  That is NOT a wax.  Then you use a mild window cleaner or a little soap and rinse it. 

NOW, you have a CLEAN unprotected coating.  You are basically at Step 3 of the Kit you bought...

Then use the 303 and then reapply every one to two months. I'd hold off on the 303 and see how long the special coating or protectant lasts....

 

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I have an 03 Signature and had polished the headlight lenses several times and finally gave up. after much searching found the headlights were used on the Series 5 BMW. Who would have guessed that. They were exactly the same as what are on the coach and not that difficult to replace. I replaced the tail light lenses as well, huge difference. 

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3 hours ago, Rob M cKeown said:

I have an 03 Signature and had polished the headlight lenses several times and finally gave up. after much searching found the headlights were used on the Series 5 BMW. Who would have guessed that. They were exactly the same as what are on the coach and not that difficult to replace. I replaced the tail light lenses as well, huge difference. 

You have NEW headlights with the DOT stamp.  They were molded and then a UV Resistant Vacuum applied coating, per DOT Specs, applied….as they age, the coating begins to oxidize….. However, you probably will a longer life and not have to clean and coat…,

6 hours ago, Gweedo said:

There is only 3 steps , 1. clean the lenses

 

2. sand with two different wet grits

 

3.  Apply final clear coat

One of the site or reviews or places called it FOUR steps….if you read the PDF, the second step is a TWO part cleaning or polishing.  Thus…”four”

Semantics.  If you follow the 3 steps….same as we have posted for 15 years.

The “oxidizer” removal (careful….not get on paint) is nothing more than a solvent….as in Deet.

The second step…lf you do the first step correctly, you may not have streaks….but using the ScratchX cleans them.  Then wash and rinse… the kit has two different steps….thus, 4 distinct steps….

The Third Step is the protectant .  There is nothing unique or magical in the first two steps….use their kit or Deet and ScratchX….you have cleaned off the haze or the oxidized layer.

NOW….the real question.  Is the $18 Kit have some special or magical protectant that will last longer than Aerospace 303?  That I don’t know….what do the ratings say?

My point….if you contaminate the special Cerrakote Protectant with 303….will or may shorten the life,  From my background in surface prep and plastic molding and vacuum coating, if there is a proprietary protectant that crosslinks to  the compound that is in step 2….then it would be highly inadvisable to adulterate it and not get the life that the kit says.

BUT if folks say it only lasts 2 months or so….then the DEET method is easier and cheaper.

FWIW.  I am NOW at almost 6 years on the 3M film that I had Dazzling Detail put (a $20 tip) on my headlights…..  therefore a REAL UV resistant film works….there are kits you can buy.  There are clearcoat kits that you spray.  But, if the original UV vacuum coating is gone….then in 30 days….they haze…

Hope this clarifies it….

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A light misting with WD40 and rubbing for 15 seconds does miracles to fogged headlights. Lasts for several weeks. Most LED bulbs do not increase the sight distance because the light source is bigger than the filament it replaces.

I added these LED lights that made a tremendous improvement and they are adjustable in all 3 axis… necessary for mounting on the curved front cap.

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