Scotty Hutto

Hello, An increasing number of folks (it seems) have been having problems not receiving emails from the site. I have spent a good deal of time researching this, and believe I have discovered the root of the problem. Note: If you are getting *any* emails from the site (or anything from invisioncloudcommunity.com) then the below issue is not your problem. In every instance so far (about a dozen over the past few weeks), either the member OR THEIR EMAIL SERVICE has reported the email from invisioncloudcommunity.com as SPAM. Once this report has been submitted, even inadvertently, the Invision mail servers automatically ban your email address. So, after going through all of the checks on OUR site, I have to reach out to the admins at Invision and ask them to unblock you. If this is the first occurrence, they will do it. If it has happened multiple times, they won't unblock your email because it damages the reputation of their email servers. Invision hosts thousands of communities and their servers send out millions of emails daily, and they work very hard to protect the reputation of their email servers (i.e., NOT to be labeled SPAM). Once you've been blocked a second time, the only way to begin receiving emails from Monacoers.org is to change your email address. The block is for that one specific email address, not your server or email provider. You don't have to delete your Monacoers account; you can go in Account Settings and change your email there. Once you've changed your email address, your Newsletters and other email from the site should resume. Some things you can do to prevent this: 1. Add @invisioncloudcommunity.com to your "Safe Senders" list AND your email address book. How to do this is very dependent on how you receive emails, and there are too many variations to try and give a tutorial here. The easiest way is to search for "safe senders" in your email client (or web client, if you use webmail.) If you get stuck, send an email to moderator@monacoers.org and one of us can help you. 2. NEVER, EVER report email from the site as SPAM. If you don't want to receive emails from the site, reach out to me and I can walk you through turning them off. Sorry for the long message, but lately most of my time spent on the site lately has been spent chasing down this exact problem; NOT doing things to improve the site. It takes me quite a bit of time to check *everything* about a member's profile when this happens, and I *must* do that before I reach out to Invision support. Keep on RVing... Scotty

Jeff, I also have a 2006 Dip and had to run check on it today. Here are pictures and measurements of my Weldex WDRV‐6800M monitor: 5-1/2” tall 6-1/2” wide 7” diagonal screen, 4:3 aspect ratio hope that helps!

Probably... 🤪 Its been perplexing... I have about three members (that I know of) who aren’t getting their emails. Ive tried all of my tricks and a few new ones. Asked for help from the hosting service and they can’t find any issue...

Rik, You can upload any size picture to the site, but signature pics (aka profile) are limited to 200 x 200 pixels. This is to conserve bandwidth, as the daily emails include those pics. Pictures for a post on the site are not limited in size. To upload a signature (profile) pic: - click on “Add Files” button and select a photo to add - Once added, click on the “+” sign in the lower left corner of the picture to add it to the post or signature - Once added, double-click (or double-tap on a mobile device) on the picture. This will bring up a Dialog box to resize the picture. In that box, change the largest dimension (typically width) to 200 pixels. The “Keep Aspect Ratio” box should be checked, and the other dimension will automatically resize. To complete resizing, hit the “update” button at the bottom of the dialog box. - Don’t forget to hit save or update on your post or profile to complete the process if you have any problems with this process, sent me a Private message and I’ll walk you through it Hope that helps! Scotty

Charlie, I replied via private message, but we had a glitch in our email system. It has been reset and emails re-sent. Let me know if you continue to not receive the daily digest.

On drivers side behind the rear drive wheel. Panel that has AC condenser opens up, then ac condenser swings to the side. Pump and reservoir for the hydraulic levelers are behind there. Also desiccant cartridge for air system and fuel/water separator filter.

I purchased mine from Stone Vos and have been very pleased with them. Contact info in the Vendors section.

Thanks Karl. It’s not just me. Frank, Dave, Tom, Larry, and others who’ve asked not to be named have done a lot of work too!!

It just occurred to me that the “new” Monacoers.org website has now been up and running for just over a year! Wow, have I learned a lot... both about our coaches AND about building and running a website! 😁 proof that old dogs CAN learn new tricks! Just for clarity, Bill Duckwitz first post to the Monacoers’ Yahoo! Site was August 9, 2004. I’m celebrating one year on our new platform. 😉

“Charles Atlas...” Tom, you’re dating yourself. 😉 Haven’t heard that name in a bit! On the back cover of practically every comic book I ever owned. I may or may not have actually sent off for the booklet. 🤪

Dennis, @David Pratt, our fearless leader of the Monacoers, actually does chrome plating and I’m sure can answer all of your questions about Velvac mirrors. 😁

Well, for once *maybe* I can answer a question for you, Bob. Here’s how to use the Engine Diagnostic Switch... Eng Diagnostic: Uses the Engine Warning and Stop Engine dash warning lamps to emit engine diagnostic codes. NOTE : To retrieve engine diagnostic codes requires an Insight Diagnostic Display or a Shorting Plug hooked to the engine diagnostic harness. To Retrieve Active Fault Codes: 1. Tum the ignition key OFF. 2. Hook up an Insight diagnostic display or Shorting Plug to the engine diagnostic harness. 3. Tum the ignition key ON; observe Engine Warning and Stop Engine lamps. a. If no active codes are recorded, both lamps remain illuminated. b. If an active code is recorded, both the Engine Warning and Stop Engine dash warning lamps illuminate briefly then go out followed by the Engine Warning lamp illuminating briefly. This is an indication one or more fault codes will be displayed by the Stop Engine lamp. A three-digit code group displays as a series of blinks-pause-blinks-pause-blinks-pause. Record the code(s) as a three-digit number. Codes are separated or ended by the Engine Warning lamp flashing once. c. Use the Fast Idle switch to scroll through all ACTIVE faults. d. When codes are retrieved, tum OFF the Engine Diagnostic switch. e. Contact Cummins help line, I-800-DIESELS, or an authorized distributor. (from page 294 of the 2006 Dip owners manual) 😁 PS - Am I the only one that noticed the “supposed” location of the windshield washer reservoir? Thank goodness they didn’t put it there in my coach!

Sounds like a challenge for one of the smartest guys I know... I bet @pwhittle could come up with a solution for less than $10k a pop!!

Brett, On my 2006 Diplomat, it’s mounted on the firewall to the left of the steering wheel at about knee level. hope that helps

Here is the 120vac from a 2006 Dip. I didn’t realize this wasn’t in the files section. @Frank McElroy can you add it? 2006 Monaco Diplomat 120VAC Diagram.pdf

Joel, on a 2006 (which uses 2002 Buick Century headlights) the low beam is a 9006 and the high beam a 9005. i will say that putting LEDs in these headlamp assemblies is not quite easy-peasy. The extended heat sink of most LEDs won’t fit in the dust caps. You could try these: TECHMAX 9006 LED Headlight Bulbs,Windless Direct Insertion 50W 6500K Xenon White CREE Chips HB4 of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088682CD7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_nPz1FbDG2SP66?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Which look to be smaller than most since they don’t have a fan. you could also try to find larger dust caps, like these... FMS Universal Rubber Housing Seal Cap Dustcover for LED Headlight, Adjustable Headlight Dust Cover for LED Conversion Kit, Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LD8TXTT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_hUz1Fb4GR85HV I cut holes is my dust caps, and I’ve had issues with water intrusion. I have a brand new set of headlight assemblies, I just haven’t gotten around to installing them yet. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Just a question... when you say 3 amps, is that 3 amps at 120v or 3A at 12v? Where are you getting the amp reading from? 3A @ 120V = 360VA = 30A @ 12V A 30A draw would pull down an 800Ah battery bank to 50% SOC in 13 hrs or less (ignoring losses, etc). Not as quickly as the 5 hrs you mention, but sounds more likely. 3A at 120v could be the refrigerator plus plus vampire loads. Satellite dishes with DVRs are a real power draw. Some TVs have a decent power draw even in the off position. Phone chargers and things are typically milliamperes but can add up if several are plugged in. Just grabbing at a few straws to help generate some ideas... Food for thought...

Good music, too! 😉

Sending you a PM.

Done.

Nope. Still sitting in my garage.

That’s on the list for sure. Eyeing the cracks in the acrylic and thinking of getting a new handle while I’m at it.

After seeing @pwhittle Paul Whittle's installation of LED lighting on his Sig, I had to copy. I am able to control the color and brighness from my cell phone or the Amazon Echo "Alexa" in the coach. You can also schedule the lights to turn off at a specific time each night, which is handy. Paul Provided a list of materials for his project, and I made a few changes for my project: - LE RGBW LED Strip Lights, WiFi Smart Waterproof Color Changing LED Strips 16.4ft SMD 5050 LED Tape Light $29.99 - LightingWill 5-Pack V-Shape LED Aluminum Channel System 3.3ft/1M Anodized Black Corner Mount Extrusion for <12mm Width SMD3528 5050 LED Strips with Milky White Cover, End Caps, Clips V02B5 $34.99 - 2PCS 1M 3.28ft 5 Color RGBW Extension Cable LED Strip Connector Extension Cable Cord Wire 5 Pin LED Connector for SMD 5050 3528 2835 RGBW LED Light Strip (2PCS) $7.66 - 3M 06384 Automotive Acrylic Plus Attachment Tape $13.50 First, I cleaned the area to install the channel with denatured alcohol: I used about 3" of the 3M Automotive Tape at each end of the 3' channel sections, along with the clips provided: I installed the channel along the lower lip of the slide surround, leaving about an inch at the front for the wiring: After installing the channel, I secured the LED tape to the channel and installed the cover: Ends were sealed with Proflex to prevent water intrusion. Inside the coach I was able to get 12v from the lighting wiring harness in the cabinets and installed the controller: Finished product: Total cost: Less than $90 Time to install: About 2-3 hours. More random install pictures my phone decided to upload for me...

I recently replaced the older Trimark keyless entry system with a new one and added a keypad. New, more secure and longer-range fobs and a keypad for those times when I don't have a fob or key... I purchased a new transceiver, fobs, and the keypad with the 20' harness directly from Trimark: Upgraded receiver, wiring harness, and two key fobs. Trimark part number 22316-01. $132.20 + shipping External keypad with 20' wiring harness. Trimark part number 36488-09. $105.48 + shipping In my case shipping worked out to $10.90 for everything for a total of $249.94. Installing the new receiver was an exercise in patience. Although the functions are the basically same, the wiring harnesses have changed over the years, so it's not plug and play. I had to re-map all of the inputs and outputs from the old receiver to the new one. Being red-green colorblind, this was a bit of a challenge and I had help from Debbie. 🙂 I removed the lower portion of the front center panel (A/C controls and 12v outlets) to get to the old receiver and install the new one. To install the keypad, I removed the passenger captain's chair and passenger console. While this sounds like a lot, the captains chair is literally 4 bolts and a plug. The passenger console, likewise, is four screws and unhook two plugs. It was much easier than expected. I first cleared away some of the gray foam insulation and was able to utilize the existing hole for the wiring harness. I ran the keypad wiring harness inside the existing split conduit down through the wheel well and along the frame on the passenger side of the generator. I had to cut a few zip ties which were replaced with like kind when done. The wiring harness then came up over the generator where there was I was able to use the existing hole in the firewall that had a wiring harness. (once all was tested and working, both holes were sealed with new gray foam sealant.) The most nerve wrecking part for me was cutting the hole in the exterior for the keypad. Most of my four years owning this coach have been focused on sealing holes in the exterior and preventing water intrusion... Here's a look: You can see the wiring for the lighted grab handle running through the opening (I didn't know it was lighted until this project! It's been burned out the entire time I owned the coach) I installed the keypad with a bead of Proflex, #8 stainless steel screws, and caulked around it with Proflex. On the inside I used the gray spray foam to seal both the entry into the coach of the keypad harness and the opening where the wiring harnesses went through the floor. Here's the finished product: Total Time: About 3 hours Total Cost: About $250 + lots of Advil that evening.

@throgmartin is our resident awning expert (along with being an expert scallop taster, I hear). Hopefully he’ll weigh in.