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Jim B2, To add to what Jim J has posted, my setup is the same as his. I have added some photos to help you understand the operation. When you activate any of the five water pump switches that will activate the 10 amp Water Pump Latching relay which then activates another 87 type relay that has larger wires which can handle the large amp load of the pump. There are also external fuses nearby in this setup. In the second photo you can see the two fuses, the controller and the relay in the lower right corner.

Bob, Are you saying that the Green light on the Lambert Battery Maintainer is ON all the time?

Bob, I think the problem is that your chassis battery is not at full SOC which is should be when connected to shore power or have the generator running. That's the main purpose for the Lambert Battery Maintainer. Something is not right. I have attached two documents that I had in my files that may offer some help. LAMBERT Battery Maintainer LE-415.pdf LAMBERT Battey Maintainer.doc

I can offer my guess. Red = 12 VDC positive White = 12 VDC ground (Monaco commonly used white for ground) Black = Video

Gary, The Blue-Seas ML-ACR is a FAR better system to anything that Monaco/HR put into their coaches. You won't be disappointed! Once any component of my charging system fails it will be replaced with the ML-ACR.

Jack & Gary, That is commonly called an IRD. Some coaches have IRD's some have BIRD's and some have BIRD-2's. IRD = Isolator Relay Delay BIRD = Bidirectional Isolator Relay Delay BIRD-2 = Bidirectional Isolator Relay Delay Diesel-2

Great job, Charles! I had done the very same thing way back in 2011. I have one display plus the A/B Switch in the Service Bay and my second display is in the overhead bedroom cabinet where the main circuit breaker panel and the Intellitec EMS panel are located. I use the service bay display when first hooking up to shore power to see what the status is. Then once it has been determined to be OK I switch it over to the inside display where we are most of the time. Where did you end up placing the second display?

The correct term for this defect is Thermal Checking. It is not a paint defect but is cause by defective fiberglass. The only permanent cure is to strip the fiberglass walls off and apply new ones with new paint. Some paint shops claim to have permanent fixes with new paint but it is only a myth. My 2002 Windsor has it and many brands of coaches were affected for many years.

One other thing I forgot to mention is that I believe the charging control circuit normally functions such that when the engine starts the Chassis Battery has to be completely fully charged FIRST before it activates the relay to start pushing voltage over to the House Battery Bank. Chassis battery has priority over the house batteries when engine is running. Obviously, when connected to a power pedestal or when the generator is running then the House Battery Bank has priority first followed by the Chassis Battery.

Gary, those two connections are the control wires which activates the relay to close. One is 12 VDC positive and the other is the 12 VDC negative. Since your BATT BOOST switch is working correctly which I believe is closing the ground side, there has to be another "control" device which does the same thing but only when the engine starts. My coach uses a BIRD as that control device but is wired to be more like an IRD. Your coaches charging control system is much different than mine so I will yield back to people who have the same charging system as yours.

Does your coach have a BIRD device?

That amount of air tank leak-down has been my norm for years. I had Alliance Coach spend about three hours looking for leaks and they couldn't find even ONE. I haven't had anyone else even look and I am too large to get under there and look for my self. So it is what it is.

Mike, Yes you are correct. I forgot, that's how the mechanism does get its power.

I am sure that your coach is equipped with a Keyless Entry so there are wires that are fished into the door through some point to actuate the locking mechanism. Search the door for where those wires enter, then run the necessary wires using that same access point.

My OEM tank sensors are on the outside of each tank PLUS when I installed the SeeLevel Tank System those are also on the outside of each tank. I have had no problems with either system. The reason I installed the SeeLevel is I wanted a tank level display in my outside service bay. The only display that came with the OEM one was located inside in an overhead cabinet. Tough to see that while servicing the tanks outside. Obviously people working at Monaco were not RVer's as they would have put a second display in the service bay while building the coach at the factory.

My fridge installer closed off both top and side vents back in 2012 when they installed our Samsung RF-197. Never had any problems even when staying overnight in sub freezing temps with the Aqua-Hot running to keep the coach warm. If the fridge sits in temps below freezing versus what a normal house temp would be the sensors and control board will not turn on the cooling systems as they are being fooled by the surrounding cold temps in the room.

Yes I did Jim, thanks!

Those are two completely different suspension components that accomplish different tasks. Watts Link improves the ability of the front suspension to drive the coach as if it were on a set of railroad tracks eliminating any wandering, swaying, drifting and pushing by big rig truckers who are passing you. The Safety Plus is a large shock type cylinder which claims to correct the same conditions that the Watt Link does but don't count on it. I would trust the Watts Link 1000 times over the Safety Plus. The only advantage of the Safety Plus is if you couple it with the Henderson Trim Kit. Then that combination allows you to trim out road crown conditions and constant cross winds hitting the side of the coach. It reduces the need to apply extra pressure on one side of the steering wheel or the other to keep the coach driving straight.

Jim, After reviewing the Monaco 2002 Windsor Parts List for the steering column and your link, I contacted Veurinks RV Parts and they verified that their Part # 190063 is the correct Clock-Spring Kit #1900043 specified for my 2002 Monaco Windsor. Thanks for your help!

I spoke with VIP Technical Support this morning and they instructed me as to how to remove the large black cover that sits above the air horn bar. There is a 5mm hex head bolt that sits at a 45 degree angle that needs to be loosened which allows the black cover to be removed. That exposes the steering wheel nut and the 4 wire connector for the VIP Smart Wheel. I removed the connector and sprayed both ends with CRC Contact Cleaner but no joy! The VIP Technical Support tech stated that if that doesn't solve the problem than most likely I need a new clock-spring. However, how do you know what clock-spring to order BEFORE taking it all apart? Anybody have any ideas? Or do I have to disassemble it to see what the model number is on the existing clock-spring? That won't happen for sometime as I am dropping the coach off Wednesday to a shop in Orlando to have a new exhaust manifold installed plus routine engine service.

Sam, I removed those two Phillips screws and nothing appears to be loose enough to remove. What should I expect to remove after those two screws are out? I guess I will call VIP Technical Support today to see what they have to say. What version VIP Smart Wheel do you have? Mike, I am hoping that I don't have to get at the controller which is behind the dash because once I start messing with that VERY brittle plastic dash it will self-destruct requiring a brand new one which is no longer easily available.

Thanks Sam! Those instructions are VERY different than what VIP stated in their manual for this model. And the reason I was getting extremely frustrated so finally decided to ask for help. I appreciate the quick response.

Joel, To answer your question, Nope. I don't believe you are ever getting the battery bank back to a Full Charge state by doing it that way. I have my AGS set to come on when the House Battery Bank reaches 12.0 VDC (summertime) - 12.2 VDC (wintertime) then it runs until the battery bank reaches Float SOC which can take hours.

Folks, I have a PC version of the VIP Smart Wheel and my problem started this past year when the cruise button became intermittent when attempting to turn it on. After some pushing on the button the cruise light on the dash would finally light up. Today, I could not get it to activate even after many attempts of pushing the button on my Smart Wheel. Trouble shooting states that I should check the connectors and clean them before going any further. However, I have no idea how to remove the cover as the instructions are kinda of ambiguous. Is there any one that has removed the cover and did this same maintenance on the connectors who could give me some guidance and advice how to get into this? Thanks so much!

Mike, Not sure which is thicker, Guardian or Coach Glass but I am very happy with the glass that was installed from Coach Glass & the service shop in Lakeland FL, RV Glass Solutions. If you are having stress cracks which Coach Glass does not warranty, you may have a front cap structural problem or a hydraulic jack problem causing the chassis to tweak. My glass was primarily damaged due to stones one of which was large but never ran and one which was microscopic and one day decided to send out a crack which grew steadily over the next year. After driving the coach that way for over three years I finally decided to get a new one. I have never had any problems with stress cracks and my coach has air leveling.